Your bio load is so small but yet you have high nitrates, I might suggest the bio pellets might be the problem. Your skimmer may also be apart of the problem. Skimmers work in conjunction with the tank so dial it down a bit or shut it off for a few days. Add more fish and feed more, your filtration system is robbing your tank of nutrients. LED lighting is just as good as MH (IMO) with the proper LED selection. Clams need a heavy blue spectrum 20K bulbs with some white thrown into the mix and a high nutrients level in the water. Change from bio pellets to live rock in your filter for filtration and see what happens.
tahitian Maxima Clams 6" wild
- Thread starter SUPERSTOCKRACER
- Start date
I have 3 of 4 for over 6 months - got them the day before Halloween. The one that I lost was about 10 days and it never looked right after I got it out of the bag. Each of the three live ones has put on new growth. I use HQI - 3 250W over a standard 120G tank. I personally don't think that LED puts out enough of the right kind of light to keep clams - there is more to this beyond PAR that is just not understood yet. I have an OK bio load with 3 lyretail, 1 purple tang and a baby (like .75 inch) blue line angelfish. I don't really skim anymore since I have the three clams, 3 croceas, 2 baby maximas and a larger blueline derasa - the skimmer is on, but I haven't cleaned the cup in like 6 months. I used a bottle of oyster feast months ago, but have not been adding anything since I ran out.
...so 75% success for me under MH in my SPS tank, and 100% if you take out a bad shipper. I can try and get some pics tonight and especially of the new growth, which I am most happy with.
...so 75% success for me under MH in my SPS tank, and 100% if you take out a bad shipper. I can try and get some pics tonight and especially of the new growth, which I am most happy with.
Giovanni
AKA Flippa
I have a squamosa that has at least doubled in size under AI Sol Blues in the last three years. My 3 inch dresa has also put on good growth in the last 3 months with the AI Sol Blues. I purchased a 2 inch crocea in the last 6 months that has not grown as well, although it has grown. I just acquired a Hippopus and we will see how it does. I also recently purchased two 1.75 inch maximas from LADD that died after about 3-4 weeks, but I know those can be tough. I have a 2.25 squamosa from LADD in the last month that seems to be having a tough time. My large Squamosa was about 2 inches when I got him 5 years ago but is now 9-10 inches. The day after the FW dip I gave all my clams, the large squamosa spawned.
SUPERSTOCKRACER
Member
my 2.5-3" cultured maximas are growing and I have had them for 4 months and my squamosa is also doing great.
SUPERSTOCKRACER
Member
just got off the phone with a supplier of these Tahitian maxima clams and he says that they come from very shallow water and they need to be up high in the tank, that's why they died,too deep of a tank with LED'S not being the right spectrum.
Whats your take on this?
Whats your take on this?
I don't know what the supplier is saying or is he the retailer, (name ??) these clams ARE NOT collected in shallow water. I have been to Tahiti 3x and have seen these clams on my last visit and where they are collected. (from the collector I met, and if you are planning a trip to Tahiti, meet with them and check them out, they are more than happy to give you a tour) I have seen Maxima's at 30 feet when diving. The water out in the atolls is super clean.
LED vs MH lighting is a issue for each of us to make there own determination. I am happy with my LED's since I switched over. A 3:1 ratio is approx a 20K temp and my clams are happy. Most of the wholesalers and LFS have switched over to LED systems so there must be something about them that is good. Look in your local Fish Store and see some of the conditions of there tanks that they sell from. Tell tail signs of the health of the animals. They mix all sorts of corals and clams together in there tanks which is not the best thing to do.
I also had the opportunity to visit the clam farm in the Marshall Islands years ago and I will say it was disgusting. Now that ORA has purchased it I'm sure its 100% better.
There is all ways a reason why a clam or any live stock dies. Poor shipping or handling, collecting, reefer, not every collectors of these clams collect the same nor are there storage facilities the best. If you get a clam with a dirty shell un scrubbed then that tells a lot.
Poor water chemistry, heat or lack or the proper chemicals or nutrients are the reasons why these clams are dying.
You can have an outstanding reef tank and still not meet the needs of these clams, keeping them alive and healthy and growing.
But to each there own, doesn't mean I am right or I am wrong. Just my 2 cents.
Look at your system and see whats wrong and figure out why they die. These clams are at least 5-8 years old and strong.
If your reef tanks is geared towards certain types of coral that need higher temperatures or a different cycle of chemicals then maybe clams are not for you.
I truely believe that having a dosing pump in critical...
What works for one reefer may not work for another reefer....
LED vs MH lighting is a issue for each of us to make there own determination. I am happy with my LED's since I switched over. A 3:1 ratio is approx a 20K temp and my clams are happy. Most of the wholesalers and LFS have switched over to LED systems so there must be something about them that is good. Look in your local Fish Store and see some of the conditions of there tanks that they sell from. Tell tail signs of the health of the animals. They mix all sorts of corals and clams together in there tanks which is not the best thing to do.
I also had the opportunity to visit the clam farm in the Marshall Islands years ago and I will say it was disgusting. Now that ORA has purchased it I'm sure its 100% better.
There is all ways a reason why a clam or any live stock dies. Poor shipping or handling, collecting, reefer, not every collectors of these clams collect the same nor are there storage facilities the best. If you get a clam with a dirty shell un scrubbed then that tells a lot.
Poor water chemistry, heat or lack or the proper chemicals or nutrients are the reasons why these clams are dying.
You can have an outstanding reef tank and still not meet the needs of these clams, keeping them alive and healthy and growing.
But to each there own, doesn't mean I am right or I am wrong. Just my 2 cents.
Look at your system and see whats wrong and figure out why they die. These clams are at least 5-8 years old and strong.
If your reef tanks is geared towards certain types of coral that need higher temperatures or a different cycle of chemicals then maybe clams are not for you.
I truely believe that having a dosing pump in critical...
What works for one reefer may not work for another reefer....
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The people at PEA swear that the imported clams are all from 6' or less water. I also have no doubt that they exist elsewhere at deeper depths. There are probably a ton of different collectors too. There are pictures of troughs full of these things in waist deep water that were collected and are waiting to get shipped.
I also agree that people have too clean of tanks for large clams and that they are underfed with either lights, DOC or both.
I don't really care to get into a MH vs LED debate, but I would caution anybody not to base any kind of comparison on what wholesalers or LFS use... their goals are not the same as ours. We need to care about long term issues and their goal is to move stuff. Displays at either can be different, but sometimes they use free/display type of equipment - I have known several high end shop owners who use different stuff at their stores than they do in their own homes because of margin, discount, etc. I would suggest that you base any comparison on hobbyist tanks that you see in person.
I also agree that people have too clean of tanks for large clams and that they are underfed with either lights, DOC or both.
I don't really care to get into a MH vs LED debate, but I would caution anybody not to base any kind of comparison on what wholesalers or LFS use... their goals are not the same as ours. We need to care about long term issues and their goal is to move stuff. Displays at either can be different, but sometimes they use free/display type of equipment - I have known several high end shop owners who use different stuff at their stores than they do in their own homes because of margin, discount, etc. I would suggest that you base any comparison on hobbyist tanks that you see in person.
Was about to make this very point. LEDs may yet prove to be a long-term solution, but since the vast majority of LFS keep livestock for only a short period of time, that longevity is moot to them. It is interesting that at my LFS, their long-term display tank is primarily lit with MH, with LED only as a supplement.
SUPERSTOCKRACER
Member
I just want to give an update. My squamosal and maxima under halide lighting is growing and doing great. I have them up high and another on the sand bed.These clams are going well for over a year now.Maybe more.
I'm nervous as hell to get another for my 300 gl.AI Sol blue lighted tank.Unless I put it right up at the top from the start, I'm also thinking about getting a AI Vega or AI Hydra.
Any opinions?
I'm nervous as hell to get another for my 300 gl.AI Sol blue lighted tank.Unless I put it right up at the top from the start, I'm also thinking about getting a AI Vega or AI Hydra.
Any opinions?
While certainly not impossible, I would not keep any clams under LED personally. Long-term success under LED appears to be the exception and there are too many stories about long-time reefers having clams (and other creatures) going down hill after replacing their ATI or Halide Setups with LEDs. You already know the answer based on your other thread where all of the ones in the 300G died. IMO, it is not your Sol, it is all LEDs. If you want some clams in that tank, then put a halide over that part - used, high quality halides are cheap anymore... if is cheaper to run a halide than lose 1 clam at $60-100.
SUPERSTOCKRACER
Member
Lost my tahitian maxima after 5 weeks. First 4 1/2 weeks it looked amazing, then took 2 days to go completely down hillWater params and lighting all in check.
what lighting do you have?
this seems to be the norm. these days.
SUPERSTOCKRACER
Member
Now after seeing you use Halides, I'm totally at a loss. I was just going to buy a 400 watt Blueline pendant to put in the middle of my tank and try another shot at a blue maxima wild.
I'm gun shy after this reply.
rc4kinu
Member
I have one for a year now under mix of LED and T5. I also believe that shipping stress is what does them in. I also believe that supplemental feeding when first introduced to any aquarium is the key, especially after a long dark holding facility and dark shipping box. I fed mine live phyto and coral smoothie for the first several weeks. Afterwards its just light and fish food.
FLSharkvic
New member
Tahiti Blue Maxima Clam
Tahiti Blue Maxima Clam
I am going on day 5 and this about much as this Blue Maxima Clam has opened up for me, see pic.. My po4 is sitting 0.03 and my temp is @ 77.1 degrees and my salinity is @ 1.023 all of my other parameters are spot on. I have sitting on a Ledge and wedge up so he can move so he will attach to the small pcs of rock. Also, I have two AI Hydra 26's HD LED's and the claim is about 10'' from the top of the water line. Then the LEDs is about another 8'' from the water so I know he is getting plenty of light. I don't really know how long they take to open up fully but I am getting a little worried. Let me know your thoughts?
Tahiti Blue Maxima Clam
I am going on day 5 and this about much as this Blue Maxima Clam has opened up for me, see pic.. My po4 is sitting 0.03 and my temp is @ 77.1 degrees and my salinity is @ 1.023 all of my other parameters are spot on. I have sitting on a Ledge and wedge up so he can move so he will attach to the small pcs of rock. Also, I have two AI Hydra 26's HD LED's and the claim is about 10'' from the top of the water line. Then the LEDs is about another 8'' from the water so I know he is getting plenty of light. I don't really know how long they take to open up fully but I am getting a little worried. Let me know your thoughts?
Attachments
Here is my one-paragraph Tahitian primer: They are very hard clams. Success rate is very low. Attaching is very good. They can "jump" once attached. They can look really good for months and months and then die in just a day with no prior signs of distress - this is what clams do, so if this happens, don't go searching for something a cause or something to change in your tank. Most need the highest of high output lights (MH) and need to be kept near the top. The only positive sign that they can give is if they put on new shell growth - don't confuse this for where the mantle keeps the shell white, but actually new growth which will come fast if it happens.
Basicly, it will do what it wants when it wants and there is little that you can do about it except for keep the water quality high.
Basicly, it will do what it wants when it wants and there is little that you can do about it except for keep the water quality high.
