Tang for a 125 gallon

[Ryan15236]

Reasonable. For tangs and butterfly fish, be sure to develop a rigorous quarantine protocol.

Definitely. Just picked up a QT tank and ordered a bunch of meds. I have Cupramine, Metro, Prazipro, Selcon, Maracyn, Methylene blue, and Formalin on the way. I plan to treat ALL fish prophylactically for flukes and Ich to protect the tangs and the butterflyfish. Minimum 6-8 weeks in QT.

I did not QT in my last tank and I really regretted it. Even though my tank was not really overstocked (yellow tang, Kole tang, 2 clowns, Royal gramma,3 chromis and Lawnmower blenny) They would occasionally break out in ich and it really bothered me to see them in discomfort like that. Drove me nuts. I cut a lot of corners the first time around and still had success but I am looking to a better job this time around.

 

[Dmorty217]

Reasonable. For tangs and butterfly fish, be sure to develop a rigorous quarantine protocol.

+1 for ALL new fish but especially tangs and butterflies

 

[Dkuhlmann]

Probably the most important reason to QT the butterflyfish is to get them eating, and eating well before getting thrown into the DT where all other fish are strong feeders!

 

[Ryan15236]

If I order them online can I QT like 2-3 butterflyfish at once so I can get free shipping from bluezoo or is this a bad idea?

 

[snorvich]

If I order them online can I QT like 2-3 butterflyfish at once so I can get free shipping from bluezoo or is this a bad idea?

Many online sellers including this one run a low level of copper in their fish system resulting in the likelihood of masking certain parasites. As a consequence, that means a minimum of six weeks quarantine including tank transfer. Since butterfly fish seem to have a greater propensity for velvet than many other species, I would add chloroquine phosphate to your treatment medicine cabinet.

 

[rssjsb]

Yeah I did love my kole tang, very odd little fish. So a bristle tooth and a zebrasoma? Obviously not a sailfin, more like purple or yellow.

Butterflies
Auriga or raccoon
Long nose
Yellow pyramid
Kleins not sure about this one
Then I would like to try a little more difficult specimen too like maybe a saddleback or maybe CBB?
I love those deeper water butterflies but I don't like that price tag and the fact they are never available around here. All the others are.

I think I would skip the auriga. They can get quite big.

 

[Ryan15236]

I may do that and keep a smaller species community

 

[ksicard]

Definitely. Just picked up a QT tank and ordered a bunch of meds. I have Cupramine, Metro, Prazipro, Selcon, Maracyn, Methylene blue, and Formalin on the way. I plan to treat ALL fish prophylactically for flukes and Ich to protect the tangs and the butterflyfish. Minimum 6-8 weeks in QT.

I did not QT in my last tank and I really regretted it. Even though my tank was not really overstocked (yellow tang, Kole tang, 2 clowns, Royal gramma,3 chromis and Lawnmower blenny) They would occasionally break out in ich and it really bothered me to see them in discomfort like that. Drove me nuts. I cut a lot of corners the first time around and still had success but I am looking to a better job this time around.

Just be careful with the meds. Certain meds when mixed together can lead to a deadly concoction, such as mixing paragaurd and cupramine. I don't know them all off the top of my head but it is something you should be aware of. Lastly, I would advise against dosing meds like cupramine unless the fish is showing signs of ich or other diseases. I use to always treat with meds even if fish showed no signs and I believe it caused me to lose a fish in QT. Tangs are usually okay but more delicate fish like wrasses don't tolerate meds that well.

 

[nuxx]

Ctenochaetus Tang: Chevron, Kole, White Tail, etc...

 

[snorvich]

Just be careful with the meds. Certain meds when mixed together can lead to a deadly concoction, such as mixing paragaurd and cupramine. I don't know them all off the top of my head but it is something you should be aware of. Lastly, I would advise against dosing meds like cupramine unless the fish is showing signs of ich or other diseases. I use to always treat with meds even if fish showed no signs and I believe it caused me to lose a fish in QT. Tangs are usually okay but more delicate fish like wrasses don't tolerate meds that well.

Having them on hand and using them are two different things. We recommended tank transfer followed by 4 weeks of observation. Having CP available is desirable as it is the treatment of choice for amyloodinium (velvet) and he is considering butterfly fish coming from a vendor who runs copper in their fish system.

 

[Ryan15236]

Having them on hand and using them are two different things. We recommended tank transfer followed by 4 weeks of observation. Having CP available is desirable as it is the treatment of choice for amyloodinium (velvet) and he is considering butterfly fish coming from a vendor who runs copper in their fish system.

Wait so can you give me a good QT regimen? You recommend tank transfer? Can you explain or give me a link to how this is done. I was under the interpretation I would QT the fish for atleast a week depending on how it is eating. Then I would treat any disease present with the meds and then I would treat fish for some things anyways just for protection and here is the meds I have on the way so far and the diseases I thought they would treat.

Cupramine- ICH and velvet
Metro- for some protozoans that cause head and lateral line erosion.
Formalin 37%- Brook
Methylene Blue- fungal infection
Prazipro- flukes

That is all I have right now. What other meds do I need to add? Also I just planned to treat the fish in the QT with one medication at a time. Also is it ok to QT more 2-3 fish at once?

 

[snorvich]

Tank transfer eliminates ich in 12 days; it can be found here. However, Blue Zoo and other online and local vendors run a low level of copper in their fish system which can mask some of the more serious parasites. As such, fish need to be in clean water (no copper or other med except prazipro) for a total of a minimum of five weeks to allow for other parasites to exhibit visible symptoms and result in appropriate treatment. So tank transfer plus four more weeks. In addition to what you have planned, I would suggest getting chloroquine phosphate in powder form to use for treatment of velvet (amlyoodinium) especially if you plan on butterfly fish.

 

[Ryan15236]

So are you against the use of copper then. I was under the impression the cupramine would take care of ich and velvet? That would be the most cost effective option but is it really hard on the fish versus other treatments?

 

[snorvich]

So are you against the use of copper then. I was under the impression the cupramine would take care of ich and velvet? That would be the most cost effective option but is it really hard on the fish versus other treatments?

I do not believe in treating ich with any process other than tank transfer as that is by far the most certain way and is potentially less harmful than alternatives. Since ich does not have to have visible symptoms, tank transfer eliminates anyh possibility of it being entered into your system. CP is more effective for velvet than copper. I try to avoid chemicals wherever it is feasible which is why I never treat with chemicals prophylactically, only if a parasite exhibits symptoms.

 

[Ryan15236]

Awesome thanks a lot you have been a lot of help. I will definitely read on the tank transfer method and get everything ready to do it. I will have to look online for some CP as I am sure none of my local stores have it on the shelf. I can basically only get copper and any basic bacteria or fungal infection medications.

 

[Genera]

I'd go for a selection of these fish. I also have some ideas of other fish for a 125, but here is my pick on tangs and butterflies.

•Blueeye/Twospot Bristletooth Tang (Ctenochaetus Binotatus)
My favorite bristletooth tang, generally peaceful with other fish, introduce after the butterflies, and the same time as other tangs
•Bluespotted Bristletooth Tang (Ctenochaetus Marginatus)
Relatively rare, but beautiful tang, introduce after the butterflies, the same time as other tangs, generally peaceful with other fish

•Threeband Pennant Butterfly (Heniochus Chrysostomus)
One of my favorite butterflies, stay relatively moderate sized, peaceful nature, love the body shape and coloration
•Millet Butterfly (Chaetodon Miliaris)
Another one of my favorites, and smaller peaceful butterfly
•Yellow Longnose Butterfly (Forcepiger Flavissimus)
Ordinary butterflyfish, hardy and usually accepts food rather quickly
•Redtail/Pakistan Butterfly (Chaetodon Collare)
This would probably be one of your challenging-ish butterflies that you mentioned, in the subject of eating, but once they start eating, they usually eat like a pig.
•True Falcula Butterfly (Chaetodon Falcula)
Larger-ish Butterfly that gets along well with other butterflies and fish, typically will not bother mobile inverts.

Correct me if I'm wrong on any of this, information from my experience

 

[Ryan15236]

Those are some nice suggestions and seems like a good stocking list to me. I love the millet, Pakistan, and longnose...the True facula is pretty nice too. I really like the saddleback too but I need to do some more research on it.

Honestly I am thinking about skipping the tangs and doing a flame angelfish. If I do a tang it will be one from that genus. Maybe a square tail? Either way I am a long time from stocking with fish but I just want to start looking online for vendors and what the LFS get in to see what I have available to me.

 

[Genera]

Honestly I am thinking about skipping the tangs and doing a flame angelfish. If I do a tang it will be one from that genus.

I was going to say, a dwarf angel would be pretty cool too. Here's a few of my favorites (but then again, I like all of them!). These are typical dwarf angelfish, not hardy but not fragile. Normally peaceful with other fish but may pester other angels. If you do get a tang, Ctenochaetus is a good choice for a 125.

•Centropyge Loricula - Flame Angel
•Centropyge Eibli - Eibli/Redstriped Angel
•Centropyge Bispinosa - Coral Beauty Angel
•Centropyge Flavissima - Lemonpeel Angel
•Centropyge Bicolor - Bicolor Angel
•Centropyge Nox - Midnight Angel
(If you have a black background you might have a hard time finding this one)

As for Saddleback Butterflies (Chaetodon Ephippium), they are quite large for a butterfly, a larger specimen can reach 12in but they are usually about 8-10in from what I've seen. Small ones seem to be hard to get to eat and large ones seem to have a hard time adjusting to an aquarium setting. A mediium sized one would be best. Once they get acclimated and eating they are generally quite hardy. Normally peaceful with other fish and other butterflyfish.

 

[Ryan15236]

I love dwarf angels too. Any experience with the Potter's angelfish. I have been seeing them frequently on Diver's Den lately. Could be a possibility. Although the flame angel about got picked over coral when I was trying to decide if I wanted to started a reef a couple of years ago. Love that fish.

I don't ever get to see these butterfly fish in person so I don't know which ones I will truly like. Only butterfly fish I see are the longnose, Auriga, heniochus, Kleins, and occasionally the yellow pyramid. When. I look online there are much larger selections. Butterfly fish also seem to be very affordable. I suppose since the demand isn't that great.

 

[Genera]

I love dwarf angels too. Any experience with the Potter's angelfish. I have been seeing them frequently on Diver's Den lately. Could be a possibility.

I've heard that nearly all of them die in captivty, about 95% of 10000 annually. Collectors get $6, dealers get $80, hobbyists get a few weeks of a dying fish. They are shy fish, but have great color. If you get a healthy one that is already eating, and have as little stress put on the fish as possible, that's your best chance. Lots of people have them doing great, and suddenly they just drop dead. I've never tried one or heard of one being kept healthy past the two year mark, but I love the fish though. They are not considered threatened in any way by the ICUN, but the fact that nearly all of them die from starvation/stress/disease/unknown causes scared me off.