TDB's 320 SPS Rebuild

I am looking forward to following along with this build. Your last reef was amazing! You certainly have a great start with all those corals! Do you have a fish list that you'll have in the new setup?

Currently have:

Purple Tang
Chocolate Tang
Fowleri Tang
Achilles Tang
6 year long nose butterfly keeps aphasia at bay.

and will be adding a

Gem Tang

Would like to add Some Big Angels.
 
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To add some more diversification to the conversation the below pictures my frag system that I am growing out the acros. Most of the Acros are frags that I kept from my break down. I have since added all of the Reef Raft and other Named corals that I can find from other reefers.

The system profile is a 150G stock tub. 200 lbs of live rock, 8X80 watt Tek Light with ATI bulbs, Reef Dynamics Biopellet reactor (very low flow), Geo 624 CARX and SRO 5000 Cone. I am using Jeabos for Flow. Notice I do not have a sump.

This system was actually a back-up when my main system was having issues. Its been up for about a year and half. I am getting incredible growth and color.

It has a green scat, 2 monos and 2 tangs that do a good job keeping it clean as I like to keep the nutrients very high. The corals here have only been here for a few months. This will eventually become the sump to a back-up/frag tank. I am looking for a shallow 180 for this purpose.

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DSC_0338~2.jpg

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That is one sexy hot tub!!!!
 
Finally finished with the exception of the optics which will deal with later if they are needed which I doubt. I measured over 400 par at 30 inches. Consistent coverage. I may not need the halides =)

It is so bright I cannot look at it without sunglasses. Letting it burn in over night and will work on the canopy tomorrow.

finishedfixture.jpg
 
That is awesome....you might not need to run the Halides more than a few hours with that much power!
 
I got the lighting mounted and added 60 degree optics and Wow does this thing have high par. I may not ever have to turn on the halides. Next step is to get the rock and sand sucked out.

finished.jpg



* Note I removed the front T5's to get a good picture.
 
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Really glad your sticking with this tank! Can you remind us of the dimensions? 15 inches of open space in front of the rock for swimming space and coral growth is a lot of room!
 
To add some more diversification to the conversation the below pictures my frag system that I am growing out the acros. Most of the Acros are frags that I kept from my break down. I have since added all of the Reef Raft and other Named corals that I can find from other reefers.

The system profile is a 150G stock tub. 200 lbs of live rock, 8X80 watt Tek Light with ATI bulbs, Reef Dynamics Biopellet reactor (very low flow), Geo 624 CARX and SRO 5000 Cone. I am using Jeabos for Flow. Notice I do not have a sump.

This system was actually a back-up when my main system was having issues. Its been up for about a year and half. I am getting incredible growth and color.

It has a green scat, 2 monos and 2 tangs that do a good job keeping it clean as I like to keep the nutrients very high. The corals here have only been here for a few months. This will eventually become the sump to a back-up/frag tank. I am looking for a shallow 180 for this purpose.

DSC_0337~2.jpg

DSC_0338~2.jpg

DSC_0340~2.jpg


HOLY FRAGS! This setup is gonna be awesome! Following along.
 
Holy Blue. With Radiums, 4 ATI blue Plus and 96 Royal Blues the tank is way too blue. I ordered 2 ATI Aqua Special and 2 Coral Plus to hopefully minimize the blue. When I get ready to replace the Radiums I think Ill try the Phoenix SE 14K Bulb. Anyone else using this bulb?
 
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What is the normal wattage of the T5s and the wattage you are over-driving them to?

The IceCap ballast automatically overdrives them at about 80 watts. I am seeing high amp draw via apex. The Two ballast are drawing 10 amps. I just ordered a Kill a Watt meter to get the facts on how much watts these thing are drawing.

If they are in fact drawing over 1000 watts, I will swap the Ice Caps out for WH7 Ballasts which will be a pain to rewire everything.
 
The IceCap ballast automatically overdrives them at about 80 watts. I am seeing high amp draw via apex. The Two ballast are drawing 10 amps. I just ordered a Kill a Watt meter to get the facts on how much watts these thing are drawing.

If they are in fact drawing over 1000 watts, I will swap the Ice Caps out for WH7 Ballasts which will be a pain to rewire everything.


With the Leds, Radiums and T5's on I am easily getting 500 Par at each corner of the tank. I might need to go with 80 degree optics as the 60s are very powerful.
 
Here is what I am thinking. One shelf going all of the way accoss. I have about 300 lbs of nice marco rock very mature with sponges today. I will use that rock to elevate this across the tank. About 2/3rds up I am at about 700-900 par with all lights on. With T5 and Led about 300 par.

This will be the ultimate platform for Acros.

Ideas?

shelf.jpg
 
i have used the SE pheonix 14k in the past, and really cant see much difference between them and the Radium. might try a 12k or 10k especially if you are only going to run them for a few hours a day
 
Here is what I am thinking. One shelf going all of the way accoss. I have about 300 lbs of nice marco rock very mature with sponges today. I will use that rock to elevate this across the tank. About 2/3rds up I am at about 700-900 par with all lights on. With T5 and Led about 300 par.

This will be the ultimate platform for Acros.

Ideas?

shelf.jpg

I personally like the rock work broken into some separate islands, then you can place acros all around the perimeter. If I had the real estate you do it would be a lot of fun to aquascape. One thing I will be doing on my next tank will be to get the whole rock work up off the bottom so flow can pass under a lot of the rock work as well, enhancing the gyre type flow.

What it all comes down to is what you like though!
 
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