TDS Reading Of 2 Acceptable?

BigEZ77

Member
Due to my diatom bloom, I just tested my RODI water and it read 2. Our tap water tests at 73. Is it time to change my RO Buddy filter or am I good? Its still quite new, maybe 100 gallons so far, if that.

Thanks,
 
The water from just the membrane should be about 10 percent TDS of your tap. 6 months is a general rule for carbon and sediment. Change your DI, you should always be zero. You never know what the 2 is.
 
I had an RO Buddy. I spent more money on filters than I did buying water from the lfs. It was a waste of money buying that piece of garbage
 
When mine starts running 1 or 2, I'll get a new filter for the 1st stage (10 micron) & that will usually fix it. The filter is only $4. I have been told to not worry about TDS until it reaches 15 or so. For $4 though, I like the peace of mind of knowing it is zero & if anything did happen using water with TDS of 15, I'd always wonder if it could've been prevented.
 
If your getting a reading of 2 then your DI is no good. Another way to verify this is it will change to a brownish color. As for the prefilters they should last about 6 months. You can test the waste water to see if it has Cl in it. If it does then the carbon is gone. If I remember right it should be 0. It's been a while because I'm setting up a new tank but I'm pretty sure it should be 0. Can someone verify this? As far as the sediment filter the pressure will drop before the RO filter as both prefilters start to plug. I think I was told when the RO gets to around 95% to replace it. The funny thing is for the price of the RO you can buy one of the RO add ons for a BRS filter. Their RO filters are cheaper to replace so this has me thinking about switching my pice by pice here and there. Also don't buy the DI refill from them it's not sealed worth a damn and you'll burn through the DI fast.
 
Thanks all for info.... And chefbill for experience on the same unit...might consider getting a better unit. Perhaps this is part of the reason for the diatom bloom.
 
This is the RO filter for the 50GPD





So for $10 we can upgrade to a 75GPD



The RO filters are only $35



The only thing you need is a new flow restricter. They are only $6 but then we save money on RO filters in the long run which is the most expensive filter you have to buy.
 
In general, ro membranes need to be changed when the output flow(permeate) slows down. If you replace the carbon prefilters every 6-12 months, membranes last a long time.

As others have said, di needs changed since your tds is not 0.

BTW, are you on your own well or city water? If city, do they treat with chlorine?
 
Thanks for putting that together Sfish! Very helpful.

I bought the same filter. My RO is dead. I just can't justify spending the money on the RO. I really don't have the money to just trash everything at once and upgrade so I figure I can do some here and there. You can pick up prefilter housings ect. BRS RO/DI filters are just better. You'll end up saving the money you spend on the upgrade after you buy the 2nd RO filter.
 
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In general, ro membranes need to be changed when the output flow(permeate) slows down. If you replace the carbon prefilters every 6-12 months, membranes last a long time.

As others have said, di needs changed since your tds is not 0.

BTW, are you on your own well or city water? If city, do they treat with chlorine?

Good point
 
I have the same problem. On city water. Water is treated with chlorine gas. I tried degassing the water as well for the heck of it. Just keep burning through Di. Can't figure out why. I run two inline TDS meters. I have a pressure gauge and test for Cl. Replace the prefliters after 6 months even if they aren't bad. I have a flush kit on the RO as well.
 
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What is the DI? Is that the carbon, sediment or the big cartridge in the middle? thx

EDIT: I just realized from some searches that I don't even have a DI unit on it. I just bought the RO buddy and never got the DI addition. My bad.
 
TDS reading out of an "RO" is darn excellent. All you need is to add a DI filter or get a single ro canister for DI stage. That will bring it down to zero. Personally, I has use rodi water @ tds reading 4-5 in the past 5 years with no issues. I replace membrance every 2-3 years, sedement replace when it turn brown, di replace when tds reading above 5.
 
From what I've read, the missing DI is likely why I have silicate causing my severe diatom bloom. Man, glad I finally got to the bottom of it...what a bonehead move, lol.
 
Yep. Agree with the others.

As far as the chlorine, it will make you go through membranes quickly if you don't change your carbon filters.
 
Yeah definitely get the carbon unit for it, I've had no problem with mine.

Also keep in mind, 100 gallons of RO/DI water has actually had about 550 gallons run through the unit.
 
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