the 1700g stingray reef

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Energy said:
I also found out that if you pour the resin out and dump in substrate it will make an awesome flat rock. Just set up a mold to contain the liquid until it cures and hardens into the form you choose.

Thanks Energy, you just have me a few ideas :)

Shawn
 
Carman34L said:
he has a automated 100g or so water change setup where he just opens a couple of valves and its done. He explained to me that with the exception of cleaning the Acrylic it almost is on auto-pilot. a tank that size you think would entitle alot of work, but it looks like he has it setup to where it runs itself (almost) I am sure that Energy could explain it better but that is what I took out of our conversation.

Very nice, I can't wait to hear about this, the less time spent on maintenance the better...

Shawn
 
The foam is VERY bouyant. I siliconed the entire structure to the bottom of the tank as a precaution. In fact one of my island structures broke free from the silicone and floated at the top of the tank during the initial set-up. The weight of the rock is more than enough to keep it in place but without the rock the rack will float. Using thye resin to create rock structures is a neat idea without a prolonged curing process as associated with standard man-made rock. The down side is the resin is a lot more expensive to use to make solid structures which can be done using other man made rock recipes for less money. I used a political campaign yard sign as my canvas. I poured my structures on this and then when the resin cured I could easily flex the yard sign and seperate the resin in a solid sheet without it sticking. NEVER pour resin directly onto the aquarium bottom or sides. It heats up during the curing process and then shrinks which could cause tank damage. I did all of my resin work actually inside the tank but I seperated the tank bottom from the racks and resin during the pouring stage with the yard signs. It worked out fine.
 
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Is that the orange spotted foxfish?
 
I have a 90 to 100 gallon tank for my water changes. My RO/DI unit fills the tank up and the float switch shuts off the water once it reaches the top. I add the salt and turn on the pump to mix it. I have this tank resting above my sump so once it is ready I open a valve and the water dumps directly into my sump. I let this circulate in theo the aquarium for 5-10 minutes and then I go over to the sump and open up another valve which directly dumps aquarium water into my floor drain. I have elimated hoses and pumps this way. The longest part of the process is getting the salt into the mix tank. After that it is nothing more than opening a couple of valves. I do spend about 30-45 minutes a day maintaining the tank. This is more like therapy than maintence or a chore. It helps take my mind off from work. Some day's the only mainatence I do is feed the fish which can take as little as 10 minutes. I personally enjoy the little and big aspects of reefing so the maintence really isn't much bother. Some days I find myself looking for something to do to the tank.
 
Brooding wolf That is not the orange spooted foxface. A few names that fish goes by is : double barred rabbitfish, scribbled rabbitfish, vigrant(spelling?)rabbitfish. The orange spotted rabbitfish is on one of the first pages of this thread posted by spazz. Absolutely stunning fish up close but from 10 feet away it has little appeal.
 
BTW I just checked and there are two pictures of it on the first page of this thread. Spazz took an awesome shot of it resting under an overhang.
 
Broodingwolf said:
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Is that the orange spotted foxfish?
Energy said:
Brooding wolf That is not the orange spooted foxface. A few names that fish goes by is : double barred rabbitfish, scribbled rabbitfish, vigrant(spelling?)rabbitfish. The orange spotted rabbitfish is on one of the first pages of this thread posted by spazz. Absolutely stunning fish up close but from 10 feet away it has little appeal.

Is it a (Siganus doliatus) ??

Shawn
 
Energy said:
Brooding wolf That is not the orange spooted foxface. A few names that fish goes by is : double barred rabbitfish, scribbled rabbitfish, vigrant(spelling?)rabbitfish. The orange spotted rabbitfish is on one of the first pages of this thread posted by spazz. Absolutely stunning fish up close but from 10 feet away it has little appeal.

I looked some more and found the following :

Virgate Rabbitfish = (Siganus virgatus)

Two Barred Rabbitfish = (Siganus doliatus)


Shawn
 
Well you got me there. I was just going by the common names that have been applied to that fish from my past experience through internet vendors. Which one it actually is, is beyond me.
 
Thanks for the compliment. I'm currently working on setting up some T-5 , 11,000 k aqua blue bulbs to replace the pink vho aquasuns that are running. I can't stand the scewed visual that the actinic white or aqua sun VHO bulb gives off. I'm finding that the t-5 gives an almost perfect white. So far I really like the bulb and the look in the tank. They recommend placing the 11,000k bulb in a 2-1 or 3-1 combo with actinics and I'm finding that works great.
 
I was just about to post that we hadn't heard from you in a while Energy.. glad to see you are still with us, and still innovating and trying new things :)
 
After seeing the T-5's in action on a different tank I had a bad cause of the wanna's (wanna try it out.) I currently have two up and running and will be placing 4 more over the system. If that works I may put a total of eight over the tank in the lower light areas spread across the lenght. If this occurs then I will cut back a little on the photoperiod for the metal halides and increase the lenght of time the t-5's run. I really don't think a tank needs more than 8 hours of 400 watt halides to grow corals. But most tank owners need more than that just to view there corals so that is where the t-5's come into play. It will extend the view time and offer some supplemental lighting for the corals.
 
I would like to see how the T-5's compare to the VHO's once set-up!!! I was thinking of going with T-5's as well instead of VHO on my "little" 600 gallon.:D
 
Energy said:
I really don't think a tank needs more than 8 hours of 400 watt halides to grow corals. But most tank owners need more than that just to view there corals so that is where the t-5's come into play. It will extend the view time and offer some supplemental lighting for the corals.

Even at 8 hours, you'd be surprised how much of that is a waste of good electricity. Many of the local guys in my club run their halides for 4-6 hr/day only and get not only phenomenal growth, but awesome color too. I was running mine for 5 hours for months and only increased it as of late again for the wrong reasons. Once I get my tank settle with the acro eating flatworms, I will slowly go back to 5 hr/day.

I do like your idea of the T5. I had considered doing this as well. I run only 10,000K MH in addition to the VHO actinics and seriously need (for my eyes only) more actinics in it. I liked the look of the radiums with VHO, but the slower growth and the frequent need for bulb replacement got old quickly for me.

I am curious to know how this turns out for you.
 
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