The Dirty SPS Tank Club

I understand that this must be done within reason, but I'm wondering if others could share their experiences of when they stopped listening to the masses that told them to do more water changes, get their nitrate and phosphate to undetectable levels and feed the fish only what they can eat in a couple minutes. Did you see better results? Are you secretly part of the Dirty SPS Tank Club?

Alex you may find there are a lot of us who have done this for a long time. I started in either 2005 or 2006 after a discussion with (IIRC) Borneman at a club meeting. The discussion was blender mush and why it worked. At the time most people thought of it as polluting the tank, but in reality it is feeding the tank, not just the fish or corals, but everything in the tank. If food/nutrients are present, something will eat it, what isn't eaten must be removed. The hard part, and the reason why many of us who practice it don't recommend it, is it is hard to export what you import. You can only hear that you are killing your tank so many times before you stop mentioning it. The import of nutrients must equal the export of nutrients. That is the key to a healthy tank along with stable chemistry, (alk/cal/mag). Too many people place their importance on light and not the rest of the equation.

As you mentioned, we cannot replicate the amount of food available in the wild, we just cannot. Even though the water is devoid of much po4 or no3 that doesn't mean we should do the same. My goal has been nitrates of 5 and po4 of .04 for a long time. The symbionts in the corals need food too, and with a lack of natural food they will gladly take it in the form of nitrates and phosphates. Unfortunately so will nuisance algae. A little algae is a sign of a healthy tank, but people freak out when they see it. I don't like it when I don't see algae somewhere. I keep my alk between 9 and 11, depending on the method used. I use GFO to keep the po4 at my chosen level and dose a little vinegar to keep nitrates where I want them.

I am not a fan of pale sickly looking corals. My limited understanding of Zeo is that is not the goal of Zeo either, though far too many Zeo tanks are full of pale and sickly looking corals. The best Zeo tanks I have seen have been full of deeply colored corals, which is fitting with the Zeo idea, low nutrients in the water but adequate food for the corals, not low nutrients in the water and starving corals.

It should also be mentioned that you do not have to feed heavy on a daily basis, every other day, or every couple days works just as easily and effectively. I do carbon dose but only to maintain, not strip nutrients. I skim heavy and do larger than normal water changes. The heavy feeding method isn't for all people or tanks though, if someone has a bio cube it will be much harder to feed heavy than it would be for someone with a 120 gallon tank. The small amount of bio-diversity makes it harder to feed heavy and export heavy, not impossible, just harder. Bacteria and micro fauna play a huge part in nutrient stability, the more diverse and greater quantity of consumers the easier it is to balance.

Heavy feeding isn't for everyone, but allowing for a little no3 and po4 can work for everyone. As with everything, balance is key. I completely agree with Mammoth that it isn't just one thing, but many, and learning what works best for you isn't easy but it can be done.
 
There isn't one key thing that makes sps work.

You need to provide a stable environment, with clean water, food and proper lighting. Sure you can get away with less then ideal conditions as SPS can be hardy but it's sort of like you can get away with 1 of 4 thing being off. It doesn't matter which one but if you get 2 of 4 things stop growing and 3 of 4 things start crashing 4 of 4 they all die. (within reason of course).

ULNS, and carbon dosing are a means of removing waste from your tank to keep your water as clean as we can get it and a methodology of trying to keep your tank as clean as you can. It's not an reason to "not feed". It's something you do when you want to feed heavy. Carbon dosing allows you to have higher levels of bac which is good on it's own according to some people. I've run my tanks both ways. Right now I'm doing sort of a weak version of carbon dosing with a under-filled pellet reactor and a small amount of vodka, previously I just did a lot of water changes and that worked good but I had a very low fish load and wasn't feeding as much as I should at times. I'm hoping running a less then recommend amount of pellets and less then recommend amount of vodka will allow me to run my tank as I did before but give me just a little more wiggle room to have more fish and feed a little heavier.

If you let your tank get over polluted you will start to get green boring algae and it will kill your acros. If your phosphates get to high it will stunt the growth of your acros and they will not bind things correctly and be brittle.

IMOP There isn't any reason not to run GFO, and GAC all the time unless you are trying to save a buck or two, the same can be said of regular water changes, or using RO/DI.

@alex I've run my alk from 8 up to 10.5. I have low nutrients and feed as much as I can to get it at 0. When I carbon dose I shoot for 8-9 when I don't I shoot for a medium of 9ish but have gotten up to 10-10.5 for a few months here and there and not really worried about it as long as it's stable. I also run my lights for around 5:30 hours a day (I need to double check) Imop the best means for acceleration is stability and critical mass. When things are stable the corals just grow and it gets hard to keep things stable, and when they get big enough unless you are a coral farmer the optimizational tweaks aren't worth the risk to stability. Acros grow fast when they hit critical mass. From what I recall It took me longer to get from say 60ml a day to 100ml a day of alk/calc then it did from say 100ml a day to 200ml+ a day.

I agree with you 100%. I recently brought a calcium reactor on-line because kalk could not keep up anymore, no matter how much I aided evaporation. I'm trying to keep a happy medium of 8.5-9.5 dKH, and not going to go crazy if it goes a little out of this range once in a while. Being that there are so many variables to keeping SPS long term, it's refreshing to hear some of the comments I'm getting from your posts. While patience and stability are key, it's a big help to hear of the "critical mass" you're mentioning. Sometimes I've noticed that these things happen all of a sudden when some corals go through a growth spurt. It's almost like you have to hurry up and wait until they finally take off, and then just keep things stable until things settle down again until next time.

Alex you may find there are a lot of us who have done this for a long time. I started in either 2005 or 2006 after a discussion with (IIRC) Borneman at a club meeting. The discussion was blender mush and why it worked. At the time most people thought of it as polluting the tank, but in reality it is feeding the tank, not just the fish or corals, but everything in the tank. If food/nutrients are present, something will eat it, what isn't eaten must be removed. The hard part, and the reason why many of us who practice it don't recommend it, is it is hard to export what you import. You can only hear that you are killing your tank so many times before you stop mentioning it. The import of nutrients must equal the export of nutrients. That is the key to a healthy tank along with stable chemistry, (alk/cal/mag). Too many people place their importance on light and not the rest of the equation.

As you mentioned, we cannot replicate the amount of food available in the wild, we just cannot. Even though the water is devoid of much po4 or no3 that doesn't mean we should do the same. My goal has been nitrates of 5 and po4 of .04 for a long time. The symbionts in the corals need food too, and with a lack of natural food they will gladly take it in the form of nitrates and phosphates. Unfortunately so will nuisance algae. A little algae is a sign of a healthy tank, but people freak out when they see it. I don't like it when I don't see algae somewhere. I keep my alk between 9 and 11, depending on the method used. I use GFO to keep the po4 at my chosen level and dose a little vinegar to keep nitrates where I want them.

I am not a fan of pale sickly looking corals. My limited understanding of Zeo is that is not the goal of Zeo either, though far too many Zeo tanks are full of pale and sickly looking corals. The best Zeo tanks I have seen have been full of deeply colored corals, which is fitting with the Zeo idea, low nutrients in the water but adequate food for the corals, not low nutrients in the water and starving corals.

It should also be mentioned that you do not have to feed heavy on a daily basis, every other day, or every couple days works just as easily and effectively. I do carbon dose but only to maintain, not strip nutrients. I skim heavy and do larger than normal water changes. The heavy feeding method isn't for all people or tanks though, if someone has a bio cube it will be much harder to feed heavy than it would be for someone with a 120 gallon tank. The small amount of bio-diversity makes it harder to feed heavy and export heavy, not impossible, just harder. Bacteria and micro fauna play a huge part in nutrient stability, the more diverse and greater quantity of consumers the easier it is to balance.

Heavy feeding isn't for everyone, but allowing for a little no3 and po4 can work for everyone. As with everything, balance is key. I completely agree with Mammoth that it isn't just one thing, but many, and learning what works best for you isn't easy but it can be done.

Yup. I can't say that I feed 8 fish that heavily every day either. When my Achilles gets awnry and starts pacing the tank and bothering every tank mate, I usually feed him a little more and things subside. It's not uncommon for me to spend Sunday thawing out a frozen cube every few hours and feeding the fish during Sunday football, errands and the one day I have to sit back and enjoy the tank a little more than during the week. Over time, I may slowly try and bring the nutrients down while still feeding the same amount or maybe more.
 
Looks like you are getting some great input. I think I would like to clarify what my tank is, it is a bacterial zeovit system, gradually adding more zeovit snake oil, until I use most of the products. But I must say it works for me. Zeovit systems can and are often ultra high nutrient tanks. What I mean by this is, I can add WAY more food than non carbon dosers. Carbon dosing is a way to export undesirable by products, phosphates. Zeovit's carbon source, zeostart 3 is a balanced additive with nitrate in it, so my tank will never have 0 nitrates. Most carbon dosing methods strip nitrate to 0 which is detrimental to reef tanks. I personally think my corals look the healthiest when phosphate is .00-.03 and I am glad it stays low even though I add a bunch of foods. Go Eagles
 
Looks like you are getting some great input. I think I would like to clarify what my tank is, it is a bacterial zeovit system, gradually adding more zeovit snake oil, until I use most of the products. But I must say it works for me. Zeovit systems can and are often ultra high nutrient tanks. What I mean by this is, I can add WAY more food than non carbon dosers. Carbon dosing is a way to export undesirable by products, phosphates. Zeovit's carbon source, zeostart 3 is a balanced additive with nitrate in it, so my tank will never have 0 nitrates. Most carbon dosing methods strip nitrate to 0 which is detrimental to reef tanks. I personally think my corals look the healthiest when phosphate is .00-.03 and I am glad it stays low even though I add a bunch of foods. Go Eagles

Nothing against Zeovit. We're all after the same thing. I just don't have the time for it, and feel like I have more leeway if alkalinity rises a little bit.

And...Go Eagles!!!:dance:
 
you are 100% correct it is a pain. And if kh gets to high it can be catastrophic. But I feel I can keep a lot of coral that I could not in the past. At this point a interesting deep water coral can be a jewel to me. I do not feel I could keep this one with higher phos. One of my more successful set ups was a system with little or no skimming and a lot of chaeto. May even had better growth but some of the more delicate corals never survived.

I am really excited with this new A. Fenneri, most would not think it is very nice.<a href="http://s382.photobucket.com/user/eralff/media/photo15.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i382.photobucket.com/albums/oo268/eralff/photo15.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo photo15.jpg"/></a>
 
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you are 100% correct it is a pain. And if kh gets to high it can be catastrophic. But I feel I can keep a lot of coral that I could not in the past. At this point a interesting deep water coral can be a jewel to me. I do not feel I could keep this one with higher phos. One of my more successful set ups was a system with little or no skimming and a lot of chaeto. May even had better growth but some of the more delicate corals never survived.

I am really excited with this new A. Fenneri, most would not think it is very nice.<a href="http://s382.photobucket.com/user/eralff/media/photo15.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i382.photobucket.com/albums/oo268/eralff/photo15.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo photo15.jpg"/></a>

I'm loving that growth pattern/form. I may have to hit you up for a frag one day since you're within driving distance.

It's 28-10 Eagles. We need it!
 
Very interesting and thanks for sharing. When I started reef keeping about 13 years ago I fed like mad, never thought of testing phosphate.nitrates, just kept the system 'looking good'
i chucked in natural unheated saltwater for a water change and fed my fast growing amount of news up to 8 times a weekend day and twice in the week. could grow broomstick in there.
went all 'modern and ulna', it sucked and broke down my tank recently due to lack of results and I'm starting Uni part time while working full time.
Can we live without a reef.. obviously not.
so, a 2 foot cube sprang to life and already I run it much more 'lets see what happens' than getting hung up on parameters.. results.. i have better growth in 4 week than I had in the last 18 months..
just my few thoughts
Love it!!!
 
Fantastic thread! Thanks for gettting htis discusion started.

I have been clawing my way up the learning curve with my 120 SPS tank connected to another 100 gallons of tanks (frag tank and 60gal euphilia tank). I have had slow growth, poor coloration up until the last few months.

When i put my euphilia tank online I added 10 clowns to this tank as an experiment ( this was given a green light by the local breeder and fellow club member). When this system went live and the fish were introduced i started feeding this tank quite heavy to reduce the fighting amongst the clowns until they got settled. A very nice byproduct of this heavy feeding was an increase in coloration in my 120 SPS tank (all tanks share a sump).

I am now experiancing a growth spurt in acro frags that have remained all but dormant for months! I am now seeing colors that I have never seen before and all colors are move vibrant. My Alk has been slipping as of late because my kalk drip can no longer keep up. Just yesterday i put a doser online to start 2 part. This is in addition to my kalk wich is spiked with vineger.

I am now seeing some algae growth in my SPS tank but my starrr blenny and yellow tank are working full time to keep up.

I am a believer that i have been starving my tank for the past year in an attempt to maintian that "clean SPS tank". I intend to watch algae growth as an indicator of nutrient levels. I do 15G water changes weekly or weakly (depending on how busy i am).

Stability and nutrients I am believing are key!

Keep up the discussion. Thanks again
 
Fantastic thread! Thanks for gettting htis discusion started.

I have been clawing my way up the learning curve with my 120 SPS tank connected to another 100 gallons of tanks (frag tank and 60gal euphilia tank). I have had slow growth, poor coloration up until the last few months.

When i put my euphilia tank online I added 10 clowns to this tank as an experiment ( this was given a green light by the local breeder and fellow club member). When this system went live and the fish were introduced i started feeding this tank quite heavy to reduce the fighting amongst the clowns until they got settled. A very nice byproduct of this heavy feeding was an increase in coloration in my 120 SPS tank (all tanks share a sump).

I am now experiancing a growth spurt in acro frags that have remained all but dormant for months! I am now seeing colors that I have never seen before and all colors are move vibrant. My Alk has been slipping as of late because my kalk drip can no longer keep up. Just yesterday i put a doser online to start 2 part. This is in addition to my kalk wich is spiked with vineger.

I am now seeing some algae growth in my SPS tank but my starrr blenny and yellow tank are working full time to keep up.

I am a believer that i have been starving my tank for the past year in an attempt to maintian that "clean SPS tank". I intend to watch algae growth as an indicator of nutrient levels. I do 15G water changes weekly or weakly (depending on how busy i am).

Stability and nutrients I am believing are key!

Keep up the discussion. Thanks again

Welcome aboard like fish..

As MammothReefer said earlier on, keeping low nutrients isn't the key to success. It seems like those who can import a lot and export a lot see the best results. This is of course assuming that everything else is stable. Since I'm growing algae, I added a lot of cleanup crew in the last month and it appears I'm making some headway. I'll feed until my cleanup crew can't keep up. At that point, I may add more cleanup crew members or tone it down a bit on feeding.
 
Looks like you are getting some great input. I think I would like to clarify what my tank is, it is a bacterial zeovit system, gradually adding more zeovit snake oil, until I use most of the products. But I must say it works for me. Zeovit systems can and are often ultra high nutrient tanks. What I mean by this is, I can add WAY more food than non carbon dosers. Carbon dosing is a way to export undesirable by products, phosphates. Zeovit's carbon source, zeostart 3 is a balanced additive with nitrate in it, so my tank will never have 0 nitrates. Most carbon dosing methods strip nitrate to 0 which is detrimental to reef tanks. I personally think my corals look the healthiest when phosphate is .00-.03 and I am glad it stays low even though I add a bunch of foods. Go Eagles

This sounds a lot like the system I'm keeping. Mine is still very young, but I'm really happy with the colors and growth I've gotten. I'm running full zeovit but feed and dose amino acids a lot. I also dose other zeo snake oils. My alk is steady at about 7.5, phosphates between .2 and .7 and nitrates between 2.5 and 5. For a while I was worried about having detectable nutrients. However, I notice better coloration, polyp extension and growth with some DOCs. My SPS are bright and colorful and not pale or brown. With that said, it's still a young tank (about 8 months) so I haven't even needed to start dosing the big three yet. Time will tell but so far, I couldn't happier and I'm not changing a thing!
 
I want everybody to know that I'm not against using zeovit. In fact, I'm glad there are a few zeo users contributing in this thread. If you want to call their products snake oils on your own, by all means go ahead. Just know that the reference did not start with me in this thread. As a matter of fact, I'm contemplating the use of KZ Spongepower right now. I'm starting to see a lot of sponge growth and tunicates on the underside of my rocks and would like to see how much benefit (if any) Spongepower might offer.

ramseynb, it was always my assumption that zeo eliminated any detectable nitrates from the water column. Are you running full zeo or just a modified program? I'd love to see pictures of your tank and corals if possible to compare with those that don't run bacteria driven systems. I've yet to see the deep, rich colors in a full blown zeo tank, and that would be a great addition to this thread.

Thanks for posting!
 
Just wondering if anyone has any pictures of their SPS in an elevated nutrient SPS tank.

An ORA tri color valida frag that I've had about two weeks now appears to be getting a deep purple body and happy green polyps on the sand bed. I want to glue it to the rocks soon, but it's doing so well down low in the tank that I don't want to place it too high into the light and lose the color. I've always had better luck with purples and blues high up in the tank, but maybe this one needs to be down lower to table out and color up. If anybody has any experience with this particular coral I'd appreciate it.

As for nitrates, they seem to be dropping a little bit. I'm dosing 3-4 drops of Brightwell's Coral Amino and it seems to be producing some great colors. Since I only have 8 fish, only one of which is decent size (Achilles tang) it seems I may have reached the limit of what these fish can eat in a day with 3 feedings. Fat stomachs, good colors, etc.

I may have to add a few more fish to bring the nitrates up a little, but my Achilles has turned into quite the terror with almost every other fish in the tank. I'd like to add a few more Dispar or Lyretail Anthias and possibly a female Leopard Wrasse hoping it will pair up with my male.
 
Hi Alex,

Very interesting thread, thanks. I'd always wanted to discuss this as I'm a reluctant member of your club, wait a minute, if your levels are dirty, i'm afraid I'll have to start another club, my PO4 had been around 0.15 to 0.25 Hanna (no i didn't miss any 0, and yes it's an sps tank) until couple times it tested 0.7-ish and i quit testing after double confirming the result (I use both the hanna egg and the larger hanna, they agree more or less to each other that my PO4 was approaching 1ppm). My NO3 by salifert is pinker than my most beautiful fiji bird nest, I don't know how to read the chart. I didn't join and stay in your club by free will, I do have a massive battle plan in place, actually 6 BRS style filter bottles are sitting right beside the tank (2' cube nano sps), for bio-pellets, GFO, GAC and even LaCl3 (bigger hammer:) if all else fails, each with adjustable flow input, I just need to drill my sump cabin and plumb them up, which didn't happen in the past 3 months or so, will someday I guess.

Well, back to the tank, a 2' cube, full of sps hands can hardly get in, PO4 and NO3 at unbelievable levels, dozens of fishes fed 3 times a day auto and manual treats when I'm home. Other than the annoying green film on glass needing wiping every 2-3 days, no algae on rock (can't see rock anyway), I don't know why. When I put new purchase in I never clean up the base rock of any algae, actually I tend to pick those with more "hairy" base rock, a fresh treat for the fishes they consume in minutes anyway.

As to the SPS, they color up nicely, very dense purple, blue, green, pink, ..., under 340W of LED lighting above only 2x2 surface. Problem is SPS branches in the shadow (LED are famous for more shadows) are deep brown (well totally black under LED but deep brown when lights off and you shine a bright flashlight towards them). I wish the shadow area can be less brown, that's one of the reason i want to quit this club, the other or the primary one being i don't want to wipe glass that often and i don't' trust others for this job.

I don't know how this has been working, and don't intend to keep it this way, but before I get the time to hook my weapons of massive destruct on (slowly of course I guess otherwise I can kill them by lowering levels to "optimal" within a week or 2), for the time being I'm ok to live with it as is: densely colored sps at least when lights are on, and happy fat fishes. My guess is overkill lighting helps, and maybe heavy feeding helped too, but still I can't understand how sps can color up in 0.7-ish PO4 if conventional wisdom holds, I wouldn't believe it if I'm not looking at them right now.

Thanks again Alex for sharing, anyone else in the club? Eager to find more with similar experience, you know, hard to exchange experience when people insist you misplaced decimal dot in your PO4.
 
This was my setup as of a few months ago. I have run bio pellets since the beginning and have been a heavy feeder the whole time. I have gone months and months with P04 readings at 0.12. At one point they creeped up to 0.26 but came back down within a week or so. I don't know what my nitrates were because I just never tested for it after it kept coming up low enough to not matter. I have a skimmer that is rated for a 250 gallon tank on 100 gallon total system. I believe that as long as the corals have plenty to eat and decent lighting you can get some really great colors as opposed to starving the tank to death. I will mention that I have never had any algae issues either.

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Hi Alex,

Very interesting thread, thanks. I'd always wanted to discuss this as I'm a reluctant member of your club, wait a minute, if your levels are dirty, i'm afraid I'll have to start another club, my PO4 had been around 0.15 to 0.25 Hanna (no i didn't miss any 0, and yes it's an sps tank) until couple times it tested 0.7-ish and i quit testing after double confirming the result (I use both the hanna egg and the larger hanna, they agree more or less to each other that my PO4 was approaching 1ppm). My NO3 by salifert is pinker than my most beautiful fiji bird nest, I don't know how to read the chart. I didn't join and stay in your club by free will, I do have a massive battle plan in place, actually 6 BRS style filter bottles are sitting right beside the tank (2' cube nano sps), for bio-pellets, GFO, GAC and even LaCl3 (bigger hammer:) if all else fails, each with adjustable flow input, I just need to drill my sump cabin and plumb them up, which didn't happen in the past 3 months or so, will someday I guess.

Well, back to the tank, a 2' cube, full of sps hands can hardly get in, PO4 and NO3 at unbelievable levels, dozens of fishes fed 3 times a day auto and manual treats when I'm home. Other than the annoying green film on glass needing wiping every 2-3 days, no algae on rock (can't see rock anyway), I don't know why. When I put new purchase in I never clean up the base rock of any algae, actually I tend to pick those with more "hairy" base rock, a fresh treat for the fishes they consume in minutes anyway.

As to the SPS, they color up nicely, very dense purple, blue, green, pink, ..., under 340W of LED lighting above only 2x2 surface. Problem is SPS branches in the shadow (LED are famous for more shadows) are deep brown (well totally black under LED but deep brown when lights off and you shine a bright flashlight towards them). I wish the shadow area can be less brown, that's one of the reason i want to quit this club, the other or the primary one being i don't want to wipe glass that often and i don't' trust others for this job.

I don't know how this has been working, and don't intend to keep it this way, but before I get the time to hook my weapons of massive destruct on (slowly of course I guess otherwise I can kill them by lowering levels to "optimal" within a week or 2), for the time being I'm ok to live with it as is: densely colored sps at least when lights are on, and happy fat fishes. My guess is overkill lighting helps, and maybe heavy feeding helped too, but still I can't understand how sps can color up in 0.7-ish PO4 if conventional wisdom holds, I wouldn't believe it if I'm not looking at them right now.

Thanks again Alex for sharing, anyone else in the club? Eager to find more with similar experience, you know, hard to exchange experience when people insist you misplaced decimal dot in your PO4.

zzz111, It doesn't sound like you need to change much of anything. This has sort of been my whole point. I was having this discussion with someone yesterday and making the analogy to a nice, green lawn. If you fertilize too much and don't turn your sprinklers on long enough...your lawn dries up and dies. Likewise, if you were to water and fertilize the areas in the shade as much as the part of the lawn that receives the most sun throughout the day, you grow moss/weeds and slowly make the ground too soggy and you kill the lawn in shaded areas. Looking through some TOTM threads, take note of the trends. People that feed heavy with lots of fish run their halides (some are 400 watt users) up to 10 hours per day! Utility bills aside, all of them have beautiful SPS, whereas most in the SPS forum tell everyone that it's way too much light and food. In reality it appears to be a necessary component that allows their systems to flourish. Feed it less and things may go south pretty fast.

This was my setup as of a few months ago. I have run bio pellets since the beginning and have been a heavy feeder the whole time. I have gone months and months with P04 readings at 0.12. At one point they creeped up to 0.26 but came back down within a week or so. I don't know what my nitrates were because I just never tested for it after it kept coming up low enough to not matter. I have a skimmer that is rated for a 250 gallon tank on 100 gallon total system. I believe that as long as the corals have plenty to eat and decent lighting you can get some really great colors as opposed to starving the tank to death. I will mention that I have never had any algae issues either.

dowtish, your SPS look great. I wouldn't change a thing for the sake of having more widely accepted parameter numbers. I'm seeing algae here and there, but nothing too serious. My cleanup crew is slowly taking care of it. If I need more snails, hermits and emerald crabs they're easy enough to get. So many times I read that to rid our tanks of algae you need to lower your photoperiod, run more gfo, change your lights, add a refugium, do larger and more frequent water changes, feed a lot less, or even go lights out for a couple days. I'm moving in the other direction. I've upped my halide photoperiod, feed a little more, added more cleanup crew and stick with the same maintenance routine. Since algae is photosynthetic and can grow even below a .03 phosphate reading, it would only make sense that treating it like a lawn by overcrowding it with more grass seed and fertilizer could work the same way in our tanks. Even the best reef tanks get algae from time to time, just as the best lawns can still get patches of crabgrass and other weeds. Maybe densely populating the rockwork with corals helps to starve out the areas that algae can actually grow. More polyps means more mouths that need nutrients. In the case where many SPS are growing, it may be necessary to feed even more to keep colors. So many people report that once their SPS begin growing, they reach a certain point and then go pale and slowly stop growing as fast or altogether.

I realize I'm being presumptuous and using a lot of analogies, but as an adult, you can't eat the same amount of food you did when you were 2 years old and not look weak and emaciated...nor can your fish and corals. If both are to grow healthy and strong without disease, then a successful reef tank most likely has more importing of nutrients as the system ages and grows in through the years. A slightly dirty tank may be some insurance to make sure that nothing is starved for lack of nutrition. Again, these are just thoughts and observations, but nonetheless I'm glad that others are participating and coming out to share similar results.

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This is a great thread. After having very little growth in my SPS, but great colors and stable params (420Ca, 7-7.5dkh, 1350mg, .04P04), I think that my biopellets have stalled growth. I have been feeding like crazy and am seeing my corals responding to the increased feeding. No increased growth yet, but we shall see.

My "canary in the coal mine" is usually a slight recession of coralline algae followed by a slight green hue on the live rock. This has been a good way of knowing that either alkalinity and/or magnesium or calcium need to be adjusted or it's time to change out the gfo and start removing as much detritus as possible from the tank and sump during a water change. This usually brings things into balance for me.
Which way do you usually adjust the all when you start noticing the coralline algae growth slowing/halting out of curiosity? Do you take this as a sign that things are too low?
 
This is a great thread. After having very little growth in my SPS, but great colors and stable params (420Ca, 7-7.5dkh, 1350mg, .04P04), I think that my biopellets have stalled growth. I have been feeding like crazy and am seeing my corals responding to the increased feeding. No increased growth yet, but we shall see.


Which way do you usually adjust the all when you start noticing the coralline algae growth slowing/halting out of curiosity? Do you take this as a sign that things are too low?

I pay more attention to alkalinity than any other parameter. I like to keep it between 8.6 - 9.5. My tank is in a very small room off the laundry room (11x7) that doubles as my home office. Since ph is always an issue being so close to the house heater and because of the size of the room, a window is always kept cracked open in my office. I always make sure I'm topping off with super saturated kalkwasser in the kalkreactor to help keep the ph up as well. My calcium reactor (although on) is just barely being utilized until the demand increases...which hopefully is in the next 6 months or so. Calcium hovers between 400-430, and magnesium is usually in the 1200 - 1340 range. When I was running 400 watt Radiums, it was very difficult to grow coralline because it was just too bright. It would appear and then recede. In its' wake the rocks would begin turning a green color. I could never get the right amount of photoperiod to acclimate sps on the sandbed and corals glued to the rock work would start losing color within a month. Now that I've gone to 250's, my colors are better, and I'm beginning to notice coralline growth in the lower regions of the tank, the rocks and on the acrylic overflow cover. Nothing else in the tank has changed, and the results were almost immediate for me. Averaging close to 9 dKH seems to help stave off algae as well. I don't know if there's any science behind it, but my tank just seems to respond and look better at this set point.

To answer your question, I always seem to be adjusting upward. As of late, I'm not noticing less color with a higher alkalinity like others claim, so I'm going to just go with it. You're running a bacteria driven system, so this is probably not the best course of action in your tank.

HTH
 
Averaging close to 9 dKH seems to help stave off algae as well. I don't know if there's any science behind it, but my tank just seems to respond and look better at this set point.

HTH

I think it´s because the amount of nutrients VS Alkalinity, if your Alk reduce, the corals wont consume every nutrients that you have in the tank, and the algaes will use it to grow. When you raise the Alk, you raise the coral feeding and growth too and without so many nutrients the algaes will starve. This is just my 2 cent!!!
 
I think it´s because the amount of nutrients VS Alkalinity, if your Alk reduce, the corals wont consume every nutrients that you have in the tank, and the algaes will use it to grow. When you raise the Alk, you raise the coral feeding and growth too and without so many nutrients the algaes will starve. This is just my 2 cent!!!

I agree with you 100%. I just don't know if there's anything concrete that can explain what we both are assuming.
 
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