MammothReefer
Active member
Nutrients when it comes to tanks are typically refereed to as nitrates and phosphates. I don't think many people would ever say "ahh my tank has excessive nutrients" meaning "ahh my tank has to much plankton."
The Dirty SPS Tank Club
- Thread starter Alex T.
- Start date
Alex T.
Active member
So true. Maybe we should start banning the term in this thread and simply start saying dissolved organic compound (DOC) rich instead of nutrient rich.
Bratyboy2
New member
I'm game!
Great points, Mammoth! I agree with this as well as your analysis regarding feeding and export.
I'm in, too!
Thank you Alex for starting this thread. I've enjoyed reading it and have learned a few things as well.
I'll continue to follow.
MarcWeaver
New member
You are right, I do have some cyano, bubble algae, hair algae, etc. What you see in the picture is mostly red or maroon turf algae that will not come off of the rocks. Every time I get to the point that I start killing it off (with higher vinegar doses) my SPS suffer, so I have learned to live with it and remove algae if it gets excessive.
I am determined not to use GFO, it's not within my budget for a 625 gallon system. I do skim wet and do an 80 gallon water change weekly.
Alex T.
Active member
Specifics? It would be nice to have a list of what you've observed doing well in an ULNS system and in a DOC rich situation. Thanks.
Bratyboy2
New member
Lol Alex starting the trend now with the DOC!!! I was wondering the same thing as I'm Doc system oriented. I can tell ya I have had no luck with green slimer acro
Alex T.
Active member
You got that right! I had the Green Slimer in my last tank and it did ok. In this tank I went with a Green Highlighter Acro that doesn't have the staghorn growth formation of the Slimer. It loves light, and has full polyp extension all day and night. Here it is in the middle of the tank about 12" below the water surface under a 250 watt Radium and between 2 Kessil a150 Ocean Blue LED pendants. It is in the direct path of a Vortech MP40 on each side of the tank. When I put the Vortechs on nutrient export mode it doesn't retract at all.
acroholicreefer
New member
This is a great way to sum it up and there is always more than one way to skin a cat. I have always said that keeping SPS is all about walking the line. I'd rather be above the line than below it.
People have been keeping SPS tanks a lot longer than GFO and ULNS have been in this hobby, even well before phosphates test were available to common hobbyist. I will say that the advances in technology have made it much easier to keep more difficult acros. However, it is important to understand your system and the bio load that your tank can handle. Phosphates won't kill acros. They will brown out and stunt growth. Algae will suffocate corals, preventing photosynthesis. Stripping nutrients can kill corals if the nutrients are not replaced.
I have always thought that excess GFO and Carbon will cause some serious issues. Not to say that sometimes running GFO and Carbon is needed, just use it with caution.
Algae consumes "DOC" (Phosphates & Nitrates), Pods consumes algae, Gametes from the Pods contribute to Zooplankton, SPS corals consume Zooplankton...the circle of life is a wonderful thing.
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SPotter
Active member
Alex and I have been discussing this for a while offline and I haven't added anything here because I am in between tanks right now. Not to derail this great thread and I hope it doesnt, but I am curious to hear what size skimmers everyone is using. So if you don't mind, can you state the skimmer you use and what your twv is?
acroholicreefer
New member
I'm running a Super Reef Octopus 2000 Skimmer - Super Reef Octopus 2000 Internal. My current TWV is approx 140 gallons but this tank has only been set up for 3 months. Previous system was approx 200 gallons.
Alex T.
Active member
I guess it's only fair for me to list this stuff as well. My total water volume is roughly 200 US gallons. Water drains to my sump via a single 1.5" drain where an 8" filter sock catches any detritus, algae or other debris. In the first chamber of my sump is a Bubble King Supermarin 200, a ph probe and a temperature probe. In the second chamber (bubble trap) I have two 250 watt heaters. Water then continues contrary to most sumps and is pulled down instead of up through a tight fitting sponge leading to the last area of the sump. From there, I have a feed pump for a gfo and carbon reactor and a feed pump for my calcium reactor which drips effluent back near the skimmer to dissipate any excess CO2. I'm not currently using the carbon reactor but will begin running a small amount of carbon in a mesh bag left in the bubble trap.
I've been accused of being very anal about the condition of my sump. It's pretty spotless.
I do this weekly during a water change:
1. Shop vac the sump of all detritus
2. Scrape kalkwasser and salt creep residue from all baffles and side panels
3. Use a large tile sponge dedicated to the aquarium to wipe off all biofilm.
4. Remove the sponge in the bubble trap and squeeze out the dirty buildup
Every few days I empty and clean the skimmer collection cup and wipe down the neck. While doing this I change out the filter sock as well. I rotate 3 filter socks per week. They are cleaned in the washing machine with more bleach than I should probably use. I have six socks, so there's a full week between washes that allows each set of 3 to evaporate any chlorine that was left on them.
TMI?
Alex T.
Active member
I think you're spot on with the OCD part. Having a custom sump built in half inch glass wasn't cheap, so I guess I try to keep it as nice as possible...especially after seeing the condition of (v1...rotate's) TOTM this month.
I feel that our systems are always in a state of decline, so physical intervention when needed as a preventative measure goes a long way. I've studied so many tank of the month profiles and remember little "nuggets" of information from each one. There are two philosophies in particular that I've made note of and commit to their practice:
1. John Coppolino (Copps) says "just say no to detritus". I stir the sand bed regularly, blow off the rocks, change filter socks and shop vac the sump of all detritus.
2. Steve Weast mentioned that he was always the best and most efficient member of his cleanup crew. I intervene regularly.
I think the old philosophy of just "leaving it alone" is misguiding. I'm of the belief that this is the culprit of old tank syndrome as well.
I'm not moving corals around or touching things all the time, but I do create quite the sandstorm every few days when I stir things up with no ill effects. I think if this is done regularly, the amount of waste decreases over time, and more particulates can be routed to the sump where they can be filtered out.
