The importance of water quality IN QT as an ich preventative.

[Sk8r]

I'm personally not a fan of medicating in qt in the absence of visible symptoms. The species I keep (smaller species like gobies, blennies, and damsels, basslets, etc) influences this decision: no thin-skinned critters like angels and tangs. So your mileage may vary. Take that into account. Angels, tangs and rabbits are very vulnerable.

However, I am fanatic about water quality 24/7 for new fish. Keeping alk around 8.3 helps preserve their slime coat, a barrier against disease and parasites. Keeping the salinity at 1.024 to 1.025 and the calcium at 420 and magnesium at 1350 (same as for stony reef) provides a reasonable standard that will not upset fishy bodies, destroy their slime coat, or otherwise upset them.

And quite honestly, I have had only ONE fish (a rabbit) manifest ich at all in the last eleven years, covering 2 tanks; one with lymphocysitis. No other problem. Period. I have gotten fish from online, and from lfs. And to my knowledge the ONLY likely difference in what I'm doing from your typical novice set-up, is rigid, ATO-maintained water quality on arrival, with no on-the-fly adjustments with fish in the tank. I can't say throw caution to the winds---quite the opposite---you NEED to be careful. But while you're taking extravagant precautions against the introduction of a parasite to your tank, take this very simple precaution from the start. Buy your test kits before you buy a fish. Use them, and guarantee that that qt tank has 1.024 salinity varying only to 1.025 24/7 at 78 to 80 degrees; that you're using ro/di water and a good marine salt; that your calcium is 420 and your magnesium is 1350; and most of all that your alkalinity is 8.3. Yes, variations are possible, but I'm telling you exactly what I do, in the hope that fewer fish losses will give you an easier start. If you can keep a qt tank in these conditions, you can also keep your dt in these conditions, and you will have a lot less trouble.
If you do want some sort of treatment for a fragile species, my recommendation would be tank transfer with two tanks with absolutely identical water. Keep your source water proper and spot on and you won't have any problem providing that.

 

[MG98]

Great post. I'm setting up a new system and have been doing lots of reading on disease and treatment. I'm trying to decide on a qt protocol and I'm leaning towards ttm with prazipro (I will be keeping some tangs). My previous setup I did not qt and lost several fish along the way although I realize now my source of fish was not always the best.

At any rate I'm compiling a disease shopping list so I'll have all the common treatments on hand. I'd love to hear what products you'd recommend to have on hand along with your qt protocol. One other question I have is how long would you let a new arrival at the lfs stay in their tanks before you bring it home.

I have purchased all the test kits so maintaining water quality will be a priority for both dt and qt's. I agree that this will go a long way towards preventing problems.

 

[Sk8r]

I like to either buy the fish 'in the bag,' on arrival day at the lfs; or let it live there a number of weeks before buying. I don't keep meds on hand because I have good lfs access, and I don't want expired meds sitting about. The one thing I don't use is copper. I've had very bad experiences with it early on, and I suspect it actually (besides its internal toxicity) impairs the fish's outer slime coat, enabling both parasites and bacteria to attack the fish. Others feel differently, and clearly have had better experiences.

For most ailments, you need to know is it a) parasite---branching choice: type of parasite; b) is it a bacterium---branching choice: gram negative or gram positive. If you can't tell, choose a 'broad-spectrum' antibiotic. Search the internet for your symptoms and pix to confirm. And choose the med based on that.

I had the same problems as many people in the 80's and 90's; but when I restarted the hobby in the 2000's, with the modern availability of precise water control and test equipment, my problems requiring meds have been near zero.

 

[Sk8r]

Let me add---new hobbyists, having mortgaged themselves to the armpits to afford a system, are loath to be told they need things like an ATO, which can be spendy. An ATO for the qt tank is ALSO critical. I have found one (I'm sure there are several) which is fairly inexpensive, dependable, and accurate: the Hydor Smart Level. It's also easy to clean and detox the water-exposed part afterward if you have had issues. Getting an ATO and little reservoir for the qt means your levels stay steady; and that, for me, is the name of the game.

 

[anthonys51]

i totally agree water quality is very important in keeping diseases in check and fish alive.

 

[Sk8r]

One of the biggest problems new tank owners face is over-eagerness to get fish going, and big haste to get fish into qt before the qt is ready. An upset, over-stressed just-shipped fish goes into water that's 'off' in alkalinity, too acid, affects his skin and the natural mucus his gills have, and if there's a problem to be had, he's vulnerable. A fish going into your dimly-lit, perfect temperature, perfect-water qt should say a comfortable, "Ahh, this is nice," instead of "Aaagh!"