The inwall 380 starfire reborn

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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9974596#post9974596 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jnarowe
would like like some sauce for the spaghetti Tom? :lol:

Everythign is very "temporary" there right now. Once the skimmer is in place and operational I will be cleaning up and orgaizing the wiring, etc. It seriously shouldn't take more than 15 mins to clean up. Alot of what you see is also RO/DI lines. I had to take down the RO/DI unit due to a problem with it, and left several lines just hanging there, along with the TDS meter wires, etc. :)
 
you know I am just teasing you Tom...we can't all be Steve Weast! :lol:

I use some multi-wire keepers I got from HD so the wires are more or less organized but still accessible.
 
It is a pet peeve of mine, and we do plan to address it. But it looks like now that won't happen until the middle of next week. I just got off of the phone with Scott and a part is/was missing. FedEx had ripped one of the boxes pretty badly and retaped it. Scott suspects that the part (the other side of the union for the inlet to the skimmer) got lost by FedEx through the ripped corner (FedEx took pretty much the entire corner off of the box). Scott is overnighting a new one to me on Monday, so we should be hopefully bringing the skimmer online Tuesday evening. The Alita pump should be here by then also. For now I will finalize the skimmer plumbing drain into the top sump and then wait for the shipments to arrive next week *sigh*.

I am also pretty frustrated with my RO/DI units. I think that I need a new membrane, so I will be shopping around for those pieces parts also (new membrane and matching restrictor, or whatever it is called.. might as well upgrade the GPD while I am at it :)).
 
what is the RO/DI frustration? What's happening? I recently went through about a month of pain with mine...I finally figured out that I had accidentally installed the DI canisters upside down! What a fool huh? Anyway, that is what started my water quality issues of late and I am just now getting things under control.

That skimmer looks pretty sweet. What kind of screws are those? Nylon thumb, hex, or what? I am surprised to see him still using nylon if that is what it is. I just haven't had good luck with it although there are probably different grades too. I sourced PVC screws when I was building mine, but I could not find hex style so I went with SS. They last a lot longer than the nylon and won't break off, but I bet there is some danger of accidentally stripping out the hole, especially since I use a cordless drill on mine.
 
nylon thumb screws I think. He mentioned that they were pretty tough, so they are likely a pretty high grade screw regardless. That plus ther are tons of them (take it from someone who fingered tightened them twice around each, before making another pass with a screwdriver :)).

The RO/DI issues are that either I only get a drip from the RO/DI unit, or when I did have a good stream (what I was used to.. better than a couple of drips each minute, but not really a full blown "stream". I have 3 dif units (my orig, one I picked up from a fellow reefer in trade, and one that I picked up with a bunch of other equipment). The first 2 appeared to be RO only, but the 1st one had 3 chambers (I guess either 1 carbon and 2 sediment, or the other way around), either way upon closer inspection all 3 were before the RO membrane. The second was a Kent RO only, that still resulted in a TDS of 1, which has not proven to be too terribly bad, over all. The 3rd was a 50 GPD RO/DI that I tried to take the auto-shut off and 60 GPD membrane cannister off of the unit I was using to combine the best of all 3 units. Somehow I goofed and when the auto-shutoff was supposed to kick in I instead got leak from the DI chamber around the top seals. I think I missed the one-way fitting that is part of the auto-shutoff. I also tried to keep up with the ergulators to ensure that I had the right ones matched with their membrane, but each unit had it in a different spot, and I think I may have either damaged the membrane and/or clogged them up to where there is alot less "clean"water produced. I may tear everything down to it's basic components and try to build one from the ground up, instead of trying to figure out how each one is plumbed. That may sound silly, but, take the first RO unit for example, it has 6 fittings on it (yea, I said 6). inlet, pressure guage, wastewater (these 3 I know what they are, either by their placement, my memory or the color coding on the fittings) and 2 blue and 1 yellow fittings (these 3 are on the end with the 4th black, wastewater, fitting). I have no idea what these are for. I also believe that the flow regulator (I can't remember the correct term for it) is in the end with the 4 connectors but I am not 100% sure. I thought about taking the first one, hooking up all of the ones I knew what they were, and putting water to it to see what came out any of the other 3 fittings. I looked and it is a pretty generic unit, so I have no idea what brand it is to even begin a search online. If anyone has alot of experience with these types of units I can take pictures and post them here for help/advice.

Anyways... I have a little bit of work to get finished up in the fish room (that I can actually do for now). I will check back later on, and I may also post those RO unit pictures if I haven't figured out something by then :)
 
Size matter's Man don't let any one tell you different . Well done the tank looks 100% prefect . hate to say it but better then BIG RED'S. Sorry Big Red:rolleyes:
 
Although it is not a competition, I appreciate the praise. I chat with Stephen (Big Red) a couple of times a month, and he is doing some really neat things with his new tank. I haven't kept up 100% with his new tank, but I would hazard a guess that it's progress would rival what we have been able to accomplish so far with our tank :).

Time for a short update :

I was able to resolve my RO/DI woes. It turns out that the 1st RO unit, that we got from an LfS, was actually an Ultratec Poseidon (go figure that the LFS would actually carry a decent unit ? :)). So I was able to get the diagrams from their web site about how to connect the various fittings on the membrane chamber and it also turns out that it already has a built in auto-shut off (which make me wonder why I bothered to buy that 3rd party auto-shut off kit for it a couple of years ago ? *sigh*). So I took the membrane housing from the Poseidon and put it onto the RO/DI unit to add DI to the water filtration. And I found the leak in the DI chamber when the auto-top off pressurized.. it was the fitting itself.. it didn't have any teflon tape or otehr thread "sealant", so I removed it, added 2 wraps fo teflon tape and reinstalled it. All teste of the unit, water production and auto-shut off were successful, without any leaks. I am still re-thinking it's placement, but that is not a big deal at the moment, the important thing is that it is making water at a pretty good pace (especially important since our top off reservoir was empty, since this morning). The unit is filling our top off reservoir as we speak :)

I also plumbed up all that I could with the new skimmer, including getting the inlet plumbed from the drains, all I need now is the other half of the union that Scott is sending me that should get here on Tuesday.

Well, just when everything is starting to come together, I guess that it is inevitable that something will fall apart. I just had a Vortec driver fail on me. I was out working near the tank getting the skimmer plumbing finished up and I heard the Vortec pump make this odd clicking noise, then the driver started blinking red. I shut off power to the driver, inspected the pump and restored power to the driver.. the green light came on very very dimly, and the pump never came back on. There was an odd brown fluid that came out of the driver through the motor connection cable opening. I opened up the driver and all around the circuit board where the LEDs connected there was that same brown fluid.. not watery, a little thicker than that, and it had a sharp, acidic smell. I guess I will be contacting Icecap first things Monday to see about a replacement. This was also one of the motors that had been running hotter than our other ones (other avg 80, this one ran around 110, IIRC). From what IC told me before, this was nothing to be concerned about, but it makes me wonder if it was a factor in our recent driver failure ?
 
I have been testing my Vortech temps. vs. room temps and have found that under 75F ambient the Vortechs will run around 125F but when the ambient temp gets to 78F the Vortechs get really hot, with a wider margin 0f 135F to 151F.
 
We filled the skimmer to within a 1/4" of the bottom of the inlet fitting and let it run overnight. With the water being about a foot below the cone, it still is able to pull a good amount of air in on it's own. Once the last bit of water is in, I was told that head pressure would be such that the pump would no longer be able to pull it's own air. We also now have enough make up water to fill it the rest of the way once the union fitting arrives tomorrow :). It should be a simple task to glue the last piece of the plumbing in and get the water flowing through the skimmer. Adjusting the level and bringing the air pump online will take a little more time, but it should be fun :D

Hopefully by this time tomorrow I will have operational pictures of the skimmer to post (crosses fingers and toes) :)
 
Here it is after running for 1 hour :

05_22_2007_064.jpg


not really broken in, but still already getting quite the head of foam on it


05_22_2007_066.jpg



Here is how we have it plumbed in off of our drain line. This is the best picture I could get for now, since it is such close quarters back there (not really too bad, but too close for our little camera)


05_22_2007_065.jpg
 
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You should put some carbon in the skimmer chamber for added filtration. :D

Seriously, I didn't realize how big that thing is. That fit in a UPS van? :)
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9994374#post9994374 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by tacocat
You should put some carbon in the skimmer chamber for added filtration. :D

Seriously, I didn't realize how big that thing is. That fit in a UPS van? :)

4 boxes delivered via FedEx. It is over 6.5' tall. It is a beast. "Assembly Required !!" Took me a couple of hours to get it all put together.. lots of sore fingers from those "thumb screws". You can use the Deltec PF600 reactor next to it for size comparison. :D

I actually need to pick up some carbon for the carbon filter built into the collection cup lid. The GAC that I have (from the recent group buy) is too fine and falls down through the air holes.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9994390#post9994390 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by raddogz
That is one honking skimmer.

Is that the sweetwater air pump?

It uses a Alita 40 (that also finally arrived today !! :D).
 
looking really good. Nice that it only needs the Alita 40. That's pretty efficient. I run my airstone skimmer on an Alita 100 (but there's no recirc NW pump). :)

If and when you get the chance, can you take some macro pics of the bubbles near the bottom, middle, top, and riser? So far it looks very uniform!
 
Hey Tom- sorry to butt in but wanted to know how your LA Pink Panther was doing. I've had one for a while and haven't been able to get it to color up anywhere near what it is like in the LA pictures. I have it under 250w 14k Phoenix and thought it might be doing more under your 400w. Great thread BTW!
 
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