The inwall 380 starfire reborn

I like the white bearings but I have no idea if they are wearing out or even what the signs of that would be. It seems to me the tolerances would be pretty fine but I certainly wouldn't want them spinning around. Mine are all press-fit IIRC.

Just to keep it "real", I have never heard of a bearing that doesn't wear out. :lol:
 
with all the problems they are having with the vortec pumps it makes me wonder if the company is having financal issues and are trying to limit the amount of warrantee work thee have by saying things like" the bearings never weare out". bearings are a wear item in any pump or motor. you cant get away from it. but you can limit the amount of wear on the bearing by purchasing a higher quality bearing with top grade materials.

is that a ball bearing? or is it a bushing and shaft bearing? the reason i ask is.... they do make all ceramic ball bearings but there extreamly expensive to buy for small applications. i looked into a full ceramic bearing that was about the diameter of a pencel and it cost almost $80.
 
I am sure they are having issues seeing all the posts about pump failures, nevermind my own issue.

And Scott, no need to get back to me, I was looking for advice on my tank issue but have gotten past that point. Thanks for trying though, I know you are busy! :)
 
Ok, time for an update. Been a while since I posted in this thread so there is a good bit that needs to get relayed. No new pictures at this point, but expect some sooner than later (just need to clean up a bit of a mess in the tank.. more about that later).

In the "Dissappointing" column we have our last livestock shipment. Out of the entire order only 3 fish survived (3 of the 4 Dispar Anthias). Every other fish has been MIA almost since introduction. This was also the first order that we had a fish arrive DOA. I can only speculate that the time of year and ambient temperatures played a role in the deaths and that the ones that arrived "intact" were still damaged and never recovered from shipping. Those 3 fish turned out to be quite darned expensive and wiped out our tank livestock budget for the foreseeable future. I allowed myself to give in to pressure from various directions to go ahead and take delivery in December versus my but instinct to wait until Spring (for budgetary reasons also). But I have no to blame but myself since no one held a gun to my head and forced me to go through with the order.

The 3 Dispars that survived are still with us and doing well. They generally school with our Bartletts, but there are two, smaller Dispars, that tend to like to go off on their own (the larger male Dispar is one that survived, and he currently likes to hang with the Bartletts more than with the other 2 Dispars).

No other fish news outside of realizing that some fish were no longer with us (like the bangaii and our oldest female orchid dottyback). We did have an odd coral RTN event that hit one section of rock, almost like they all stung each other, but of the 4 colonies only 2 were actually touching. The RTN/STN started at one edge of the encrusted sections and moved across the colony, working it's way up the branches, to the other side. 2 of them we were able to frag and save, one only 2 small frags survived so far, the other (pink jade) we got early and save a significant number or frags. --- The mess I was referring to .. there are several rocks lining the bottom of the tank with frags glued to them. One can hardly see the sand bottom.. which is not how I want the tank to look.

A week or so ago we noticed that just after lights out that the tank became very cloudy. My wife asked if I had just dosed sugar or done some other maintenance to stiry up the tank (I had not). It turned out that our caulerpa macro had gone asexual and dumped into our tank. I spent the next hour+ cleaning the skimmer sup and riser (so make it more effective/efficient at skimming out the algae crap) tearing as much of the caulerpa out of our sump as possible. When I was done there was a huge pile of grape caulerpa on the floor and several bristle worm bristles in my right hand fingers *sigh* (took almost a week to work themselves all the way out). I left in a nice sized "solony" of razor caulerpa and the chaeto. I still need to get back in there and clean out any straggler caulerpa and probably also get rid of the razor caulerpa.

Amazingly we had no losses from that even and by morning the tank was crystal clear again. During the event I did a half dose of sugar, which I considered to be a worthwhile gamble. I know that the bacteria bloom spurred on by the sugar strips alot of O2 out of the water, but the bateria also eats/helps export alot of DOCs, which is primarliy was the caulerpa dumped back into our tank. That plus our oversized skimmer and lots of surface area and aggitation helped me to feel that it was the right move. As I mentioned the water was crystal clear the next day (and the skimmer stunk horribly so).

Our orange shoulder tang has been digging around alot and has created some mountains and caves. I don't so much mind the caves, but the mountains can be a pain.. and I don't jsut mean when they bury a coral (or three). There are a couple of places with 6" or more of sand piled up that I need to take care of before they start growing some really nasty stuff underneath them. I already knocked/moved one of the older piles and didn't see any nasties or see any bad side affects from it. So we should be OK so long as I don't post pone it too long.

That about sums up the livestock updates... next post will be equipment updates :)
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11377880#post11377880 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jnarowe
titanium heat exchanger would be significantly more efficient than PEX.

By light years.

Tom, I may have a Ti H.E. you could have (to cover what I owe you) :) I know we have a few sitting around, I just need to ask if the one I'm thinking of has any future use here (which I doubt)

On another note, the guy that I came up with to get the tank is a certifed PEX installer amongs other things. If you need the tools, he might let me borrow them for a day :)
 
i hope you got a picture of the calarupa going asexual in the tank. it would be a pitty if you didnt have a pic of that. also i hpe you took one of the look on your face after you looked in the skimmer. ha ha ha ha ha
 
We got new bearings and drive shafts for our 4 Vortecs back the beginning of last December. After many attempts to adjust them and get them quiet we have given up hope for a quiet Vortec. For this reason we are picking up a pair of Tunze 6200s from a local reefer to try out. We should have them by this weekend. While I dislike their look, I am more concerned with noise levels at this point. VT and IC have worked with us in an attempt to get everything working, and that they have accomplished, but the noise levels are just more than we are willing to accept. If these 2 Tunze work out (READ : They are significantly quieter than the VTs) then we will be saving up to purchase an additional pair of 6201s (they current model 620X pump). The sale of our existing VTs is inteneded to help fund this, an even so the end date for completion may be months off (if the Tunzes work out, that is).

So far our lighting has been performing well, but I am not 100% happy with the spread from our halides. The AC bulbs are nice, but I am giving serious consideration to moving up to 400W HQI ballasts to drive them. The monthly cost will be about $21 per month more than we pay now (using the 400W IC ballasts). The par will go up apprix 23%, which is not so much of a concern for us as a potentially broader lighting spread. I am also a little worried about the drop in bulb lifespan by moving to an HQI ballast, but not sure how big a deal that will be (yet).

Everything else has been working status. Refilled the Ca Rx a couple of weeks ago and more or less have it dialed back in.. but I still need to double check tank demand to see if it requires any further adjusting.

Skimmer gets cleaned every 2 weeks or so (I know, it should be done more often, but with the baby I rarely have any spare time and have to force myself to even get the cleaning in twice monthly). Since it is oversized, I sort of rely on/lean on the capacity "buffer" and let the cleaning schedule slide a little.

I will try to get some picts of the tank before lights out this evening.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11617550#post11617550 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by spazz
i hope you got a picture of the calarupa going asexual in the tank. it would be a pitty if you didnt have a pic of that.


Perv !!!!.. go find your tank porn elsewhere !!!


J/K Heheheh :D
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11617545#post11617545 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by GreshamH
By light years.

Tom, I may have a Ti H.E. you could have (to cover what I owe you) :) I know we have a few sitting around, I just need to ask if the one I'm thinking of has any future use here (which I doubt)

On another note, the guy that I came up with to get the tank is a certifed PEX installer amongs other things. If you need the tools, he might let me borrow them for a day :)

I have not yet decided on doing gas heating this year. I adjusted the insulation on our sumps and have gotten it so that at most only 1 heater stays on during the day and the now 4 heaters keep it well enough through the night. Since right now the expense would not pay for itself until after next winter, and our budget is very tight, I am leaning away from building it for this season. I also had some ideas for extending the insulation of the fish room and building an insulated curtain to enclose the tank and sump section. As you can see from previous pictures there is a wall that defines the fish room adn separates it from the rest of the garage. That wall is heavy with insulation. The other wall is the house, which is insulated and the third, back wall is an outside wall with T-111 siding (but is light in the insulation). I planned to build a curtain using some large blue tarps, rolled insulation and pop rivets (sandwiching the insulation between two tarps) and hanging those insulated curtains over the "opening" at the "front" of the fishroom, containing the heat generated throughout the day by the lights. This will of course increase the humidity, but almost that entire "room" was painted with 2 part epoxy paint (completely waterproof), and the equipment is all "SW safe" (light rack built w/ aluminum framing and SS bolts/nuts). And it would only be during the winter months that it would be up. While that would likely not eliminate the need for the heaters, it should help really knock down the amount of time they are drawing power. And the cost to build the curtains won't be outrageously expensive (like the gas heater would).

We got our electric bill for December and it went up $150 - $200 from normal, but we also have to factor in the running of our house furnace more and anything else we might use more often, non-tank related, during the holidays. January has been a colder month and February looks to be even colder still.. so we will see how it all pans out for us and if I can get to building and hanging that insulated curtain.


Anyone have any thoughts or suggestions on the topic or our plan of attack for this year ? :)
 
yeah, bummer about the livestock. I got in a shipment of corals and half were DOA. I think in the future, I will not have stuff shipped in during the Winter.
 
My bill doubled from Dec. '05 to Dec '06 with lower usage!

BTW, SS and aluminum are not compatible, ESPECIALLY when combined with SW. Aluminum in general isn't too hot by itself either. Just wipe your hand over your CO2 bottle to see what I mean.

Anyway, you will see some serious pitting and general corrosion where the SS meets the aluminum.
 
I know about the possibility of galvanic reaction between dissimilar metals causing accellerated corrosion between them, but I had not looked up the potential reaction between SS and aluminum. I do check the joints, etc relatively frequently. So far so good, but I do agree that it could just be a matter of time. I considered borrowing a friends tig welder and practicing welding aluminum on a bunch of scrap and trying to tackle just welding the frame together (versus using the SS bolts to hold it together). But I am barely passable with a regular welder and iron stock, much less something as thin as aluminum :(. I also wanted to note that when I built the lighting rack I used the SS hardware to hold it together, not hold it up.. in other words most all of the cross members sit on top of the main supported ones (hanging from the sliding track), versus putting them underneath (where the bolts would be holding them up). Small concession I know, and still using two dissimilar metals, but at least it gives us a little more "security" if things starte going south faster than I expected.
 
Took some pictures last night before (and a couple after) main lights out.

I am going to sort of start backwards by kicking off with a FTS, although it may not be perfect since it is not a "stiched" photo, but rather just one where I backed up enough to get it all in frame.

IMG_8281.jpg


more to follow as time permits (pictures taken and hosted, I just need to take the time to post them here)
 
Here are most of the chalices that we have. From the top down :

new acquisitions : mummy eye and red watermelon
semi buried pink sprinkles (no sprinkles yet *sigh*)
rasta (from exoticreefs.us)
bazooka joe (directly from John as YourReef)


IMG_8286.jpg


IMG_8287.jpg


IMG_8289.jpg


IMG_8290.jpg
 
Hey, I figured so, but what about aluminum rivets? That's what I use. It's very easy to do and inexpensive. Corals look great. :)
 
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