The Moorish Idol Thread

[Outerbank]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13149592#post13149592 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by gordon2726
Hi guys,

I want to get a small Moorish Idol (2") for my new 82g tank. I know that the one from Hawaii is a little hardier so that's the one I will be getting. I am setting up a 10g QT right now so it should be readly in a few days. Do you guys think a 10g is ok to qt a small MI for a few weeks? What's the most common disease for MI? How do you guys qt your MI? Does anybody has a problem with their wasses, clown fish, tang, anthias and goby with MI? Thank you guys.

MIs are very difficult to keep and the bigger the DT, the better. I think 10 gallons is too small to quarentine. They will swim into the walls, the water quality will deteriate, and they will get sick and die. IMO, a QT is best set up almost like a fish only with base rock. Here is what I have recommended. Of course, it is only a recommendation, and you can skip on the skimmer for now.

I believe in using a 30 gallon QT with a protein skimmer and hang on pump (I use an Aqua C remora and an aquaclear 500). They like a decent amount of current. I like a 30 gallon with small to medium fish. If a fish is ever too large for a 30 gallon, then I don't want it. 30 gallon tanks are small enough to allow effective water changes if needed, but big enough to allow decent swimming and dilute toxins. Don't crowd the QT with a ton of rock. Keep several pieces of rock in the QT and keep the area in front, behind, and the sides open so the fish can swim all around the tank if needed. 30 gallon is also small enough so the fish don't have to hunt for food if they are on the opposite side of the tank.

A nice QT set up will pay for itself immediately in the cost of saved fish

 

[Outerbank]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13149915#post13149915 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by benzc01
i just got a 200 buck acan frag, my first acan , and my idol instanly destroyed it what a sob, he dont really touch my zoas, candy or my sps or clams i dont know what to do im torn lol any advice?

What color was the frag? My guess is green and/or red/orange.

 

[jacksandgo]

Agreed. Especially for a sensitive fish like this or say...an Achilles Tang. Honestly, they should be in a bigger QT than this depending on their size, or put directly into the DT.

Though many may disagree with this, MIs and Achilles Tangs are two of the few types of fish where I'd take the chance to do this. I did this with both of mine and they're both thriving. YMMV and most definitely just my opinion here.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13150380#post13150380 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Outerbank
MIs are very difficult to keep and the bigger the DT, the better. I think 10 gallons is too small to quarentine. They will swim into the walls, the water quality will deteriate, and they will get sick and die. IMO, a QT is best set up almost like a fish only with base rock. Here is what I have recommended. Of course, it is only a recommendation, and you can skip on the skimmer for now.

I believe in using a 30 gallon QT with a protein skimmer and hang on pump (I use an Aqua C remora and an aquaclear 500). They like a decent amount of current. I like a 30 gallon with small to medium fish. If a fish is ever too large for a 30 gallon, then I don't want it. 30 gallon tanks are small enough to allow effective water changes if needed, but big enough to allow decent swimming and dilute toxins. Don't crowd the QT with a ton of rock. Keep several pieces of rock in the QT and keep the area in front, behind, and the sides open so the fish can swim all around the tank if needed. 30 gallon is also small enough so the fish don't have to hunt for food if they are on the opposite side of the tank.

A nice QT set up will pay for itself immediately in the cost of saved fish

 

[benzc01]

hahaah

[/IMG]

 

[gordon2726]

Thanks guys. I think I'll just put MI directly into the DT.

 

[jacksandgo]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13150619#post13150619 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by benzc01
hahaah

[/IMG]

Ouch...that's an expensive MI snack.

 

[Outerbank]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13150487#post13150487 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jacksandgo
Agreed. Especially for a sensitive fish like this or say...an Achilles Tang. Honestly, they should be in a bigger QT than this depending on their size, or put directly into the DT.

Though many may disagree with this, MIs and Achilles Tangs are two of the few types of fish where I'd take the chance to do this. I did this with both of mine and they're both thriving. YMMV and most definitely just my opinion here.

Jacksandgo, with a 360 DT and 240 gallon refuge, you can likely get away with putting anything directly into the display!!! That set up must be VERY nice, provide plenty of hiding places and food, and huge biologic filtration. Also, the corals, IMO, might be capable of eating free swimming parasites. The environment is much more stress free and stable which is critical with delicate fish.

 

[jacksandgo]

Thanks, bud. so far, so good. I like what you're saying about the QT setup, too. It's the way to go most times. I've learned a lot over the years, and still have a lot to learn!

I keep a lot of big tangs, so they need the swimming space. My Moorish Idol is 5" across and fat, and does high speed swim bursts the length of the 8' tank. He's really something to behold, and lots of fun. If I'm cleaning the tank, he's right there with my Sohal checking me out up close and personal. Quite a character.

 

[Ron S.]

Update: After moving to the 90 gallon they have been eating very little. Some Nori, few pellets, ect... Today I bought some fresh oysters, squid and scallons(didn't have the live mussels I wanted) ran it all thru the food processer till was a kind of chunkie pudding consistency. Put some in the tank and the one Idol went crazy eating. The other still just picked a little, mostly at the Nori. I still have hope one will show the other what to eat. The still look good, not to thin but could be better. I'm doing weekly water changes to keep the water quality up so I continue to hope for the best.

Ron

 

[Outerbank]

Excellent! Keep feeding the small pieces, hourly or more frequent. These fish seem to never stop eating if given the opportunity. Don't place too much food in at a time. You don't want to pollute the tank. I think MIs are very sensitive to falling water quality. Do water changes as needed to keep nitrates below 10. The best scenario is placing a little food in, the fish completely eat it, then put more in 30-60 minutes later, and the fish eat it all, repeat.... Hopefully, the MIs clean up any food on the bottom of the tank. As they become more aggressive eaters, make the pieces a little larger but still not very large. The first several days can be tedious feeding in this manner, but in about a week, an eating MI should become pretty aggressive and the food pieces can slowly be made a little larger as they become more and more aggressive with eating.

I have mine taking flakes now. When you introduce flakes, try soaking the flakes in the food the fish likes. Add a drop or 2 of saltwater to the mix so the flavor soaks in. For MI, consider trying red flakes first. They always seem attracted to red colors IMO. Once again, break the flakes so they are small.

These techniques have worked great for me with other hard to feed fish. This includes copperband butterfly and PBT. The key is to introduce a wide varieties of food this way. The fish usually eventually become pigs and eat everything.

I like the idea of blending various foods in the blender. If the MI becomes accustomed to this food, then you have really overcome the biggest hurdle. A smorgosborg blend provides a more rounded diet.

If you can find Priscine Energetics Mysis shrimp, purchase a pack and try them.

Scott

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13171560#post13171560 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Ron S.
Update: After moving to the 90 gallon they have been eating very little. Some Nori, few pellets, ect... Today I bought some fresh oysters, squid and scallons(didn't have the live mussels I wanted) ran it all thru the food processer till was a kind of chunkie pudding consistency. Put some in the tank and the one Idol went crazy eating. The other still just picked a little, mostly at the Nori. I still have hope one will show the other what to eat. The still look good, not to thin but could be better. I'm doing weekly water changes to keep the water quality up so I continue to hope for the best.

Ron

 

[Outerbank]

Oops, double post.

 

[Outerbank]

OK, if you Q-tank your MI for 10 days or so to get them eating and treat any illness, this is what you will have. This fish is eating scallops, PE mysis shrimps, and flakes with gusto.

Here is a video of my 3 week old idol. My tank was recently moved, thus the increased algae

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fsz7jw4hzPk

 

[blface]

Here's a pic of my new MI. I've had it for about 3 weeks now. It ate like crazy at the LFS but when I got it home my PBT when nuts on him. I could only get it to eat clams on the shell for the first 4-5 days. It took the PBT about two weeks to finally let th MI leave the corner of the tank. He finally stopped pestering it the last few days or so. The MI will now eat mysis & spirulina brine. It still won't touch anything else; flakes, pellets, formula 1 &2 or prime reef. At least it's eating & able to swim the entire 220 gallons now. It's always picking at the rocks. I have alot of sponge growth that he munches on.

 

[Outerbank]

Dang PBTs!!! They are so awesome, but yet such pains in the a$$es. I had the same experience in the past with the PBT. They will harass a MI. Eventually, the MI will hold its own and the PBT will not be able to swim as well as the MI. That said, the MI I lost after 4 years would occasionally be chased by my old PBT.

Good luck blface. If the fish has time to eat, then he should do well.

 

[Outerbank]

Competition for food is a big issue with a MI, especially when first purchased and adapting to captivity. After a couple weeks of adaption they are usually eating very aggressively. This is the time to add them to the main tank. Their metabolism appears to be very high, so they need a ton of food. That is why they will do best in a large Q tank at first.

Feed them plenty of food.

 

[jacksandgo]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13255934#post13255934 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Outerbank
Dang PBTs!!! They are so awesome, but yet such pains in the a$$es. I had the same experience in the past with the PBT. They will harass a MI. Eventually, the MI will hold its own and the PBT will not be able to swim as well as the MI. That said, the MI I lost after 4 years would occasionally be chased by my old PBT.

Good luck blface. If the fish has time to eat, then he should do well.

Yep, and many times Yellow Tangs harass Moorish Idols as well. They are, after all, similar body types and somewhat close relatives, so I guess we should expect as much. I still hate it, though! :lol:

 

[Ron S.]

Update: Well been almost a month since buying my Idols. After moving them to the 90 and getting along for about a week and half the stronger one started harassing the weaker. So out came the net again.... I now have one in the 90 and the second in my 100 gallon sump. They both are eating like champs and have high hopes on their survial. They show no intrest in pellets but love nori and my home made food. I will update again in the future but at this time it looks like the fish are doing very well. As a added note the weaker fish fought off ick, the wounds from the attack and some growth on its fins. I hope these are good signs about the fish's imune system.

Ron.

 

[AMD30]

i also have 2 MIs and both r eating spectrum pellets, ocean nutr 2, nori sheets, and mysis and clam on half shell. but one started nipping the other idol so i have them seperated. and wondering if anyone knows y this happens? can i take the dominant one out then introduce the weaker one and then re introduce the former dominant? wish i could have both in one tank. (i have a 300g with a 6in hippo tang, 4in kole, 3in naso, 5in cbb and a coral catshark)

 

[Outerbank]

The August/September issue of Coral magazine has a nice article on MIs. I personally do not believe they need to be in pairs to do well. I had one MI for 4 years and he died when my tank crashed with a long distance move, not because he lacked a mate. Many fish live in pairs in the wild, but not in our tanks. I think it would be hard to have a pair as it is reported they can be aggressive to each other. If you can get a pair, that would be great, but it seems to me it would be a very hard task. I think success with MIs all relies on going "Back to the Basics". Quarentine the fish so there is no competition for food. Feed it. Diversify its food. Treat any illness. Then put the fish in a large DT without any significantly aggressive fish. If needed, you can put them in the DT early as long as it is feeding and looks good. You may introduce some disease, but your fish should be able to recover if your tank is appropriate. I have only been able to quarentine for 10-14 days with this fish. That is because they seem to get anxious in a small tank. By then, however, they are eating welll and healthy with all their scales and protective slime coat. I believe all fish do best without too many fish in the tank. Continue to feed like mad. The fish should be fat with a full body.

Mine is eating 4 types of flakes, 4 types of pellots, nori, scallops, and PE mysis shrimp. I have no other foods available--he eats everything I have. I can probably feed him by hand. He has grown a 1/4 inch in the 6 weeks I have had him. They should grow fast, if not, you are not feeding them enough. These fish are more than capable of eating like pigs. When that is the case, feed them like pigs.

Mine is

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13414209#post13414209 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by AMD30
i also have 2 MIs and both r eating spectrum pellets, ocean nutr 2, nori sheets, and mysis and clam on half shell. but one started nipping the other idol so i have them seperated. and wondering if anyone knows y this happens? can i take the dominant one out then introduce the weaker one and then re introduce the former dominant? wish i could have both in one tank. (i have a 300g with a 6in hippo tang, 4in kole, 3in naso, 5in cbb and a coral catshark)

 

[Outerbank]

The Coral magazine issue about MIs is the Aug/Sept 2007 issue, not 2008. Sorry, I don't want to confuse people.