The Moorish Idol Thread
- Thread starter zfunk007
- Start date
I just got my 1st Mi a week ago. So far he seems to have settled ok, not eating fully yet but likes reef paste and has now started eating New era Pellet, i'm just not sure how much he is taking in.
This thread was great to read and I have to say nice to see some encouraging stories. Everyone I spoke to warned me away from them but as they are my favorite fish I had to try!
This thread was great to read and I have to say nice to see some encouraging stories. Everyone I spoke to warned me away from them but as they are my favorite fish I had to try!
I really think that's the key to them doing well. Looks great!
gofor100
New member
Thanks!
Totally agree on their success depending on them being at the top of the pecking order... I don't have any other tangs or fish competing with it, so it is definitely the boss. Never gets chased and rarely does any chasing itself.
I'd be interested to see what others that are successful (meaning long term) keep with their MI. And if they do have tangs and/or rabbitfish, how large of a tank kept them happy, and in what order they were added, how many tangs/rabbitfish they have, etc.
-Chad
h2so4hurts
New member
I don't know what the key is and I'm not going to pretend I do. I severely overfeed my tank with NLS pellets, like 2 pinches every 2 hours from an eheim autofeeder. There's no competition for food and everyone is fat and happy. My tangs chase the idol, but he doesn't seem to care at all. He just goes about his business. The Tangs do seem to police his coral eating habit well though, so that's a bonus. I've had him for about a year and a half and he's been with two large tangs from the beginning. I will say that he did a lot of stress swimming (reflection biting, circling) in my 6 foot 150 gallon tank. He doesn't do any of that anymore in the new 8ft tank.
gofor100
New member
Also I think that the MI being the top dog probably becomes less of a factor the larger the tank is... Somewhat of an obvious statement but wanted to be clear that I didn't think that was a huge factor in all tanks but maybe those tanks that aren't on the larger side. Mine is just under 200 gallons so not huge.
Chad
Chad
h2so4hurts
New member
I don't feed at night but I do feed from the autofeeder 4x a day with 2 hour intervals during lights on. I also feed scallops and mysis at 9 am, 12 pm and 3 pm. My tank is at work so doing this is pretty easy. Like I said, I'm not going to pretend I have the answer to success but good diet, a large tank with plenty of swimming room, and impeccable husbandry are a good start.
Great thread! I've had success keeping high ORP/DO levels. Also I believe that tank size makes a big difference as well, as I I've read some opinions from professional aquarists that say 500 gals with a large footprint is a minimum!
There's a tfhmagazine.com article written some years ago that's sole purpose is to alert people to NEVER attempt to keep Moorish Idols at all, ever. Period. I'll post the link from my laptop.
I wasn't having success with my Idol in QT so I aborted it early and acclimated it to my lagoon which has a very large footprint. Immediately the fish was acting like a wild MI and very shortly after it was eating 1mm and 2mm NLS pellets and Zoe/zoecon supplemented pe mysis.
My little guy can be found at the most turbulent, highest flow areas. Its been over a year I believe which the article I spoke of claimed to be near impossible.
I'm so pleased to read all of these success stories. Prior to finding this thread everything Ive read has been very depressing.
I'm also concerned with angels harassing my idol. I have a maculosous that throughout the day chases the Idol. I know this is somewhat of a natural occurrence but its unneeded stress no doubt. Does anybody think it warrants removal of the Mac?
There's a tfhmagazine.com article written some years ago that's sole purpose is to alert people to NEVER attempt to keep Moorish Idols at all, ever. Period. I'll post the link from my laptop.
I wasn't having success with my Idol in QT so I aborted it early and acclimated it to my lagoon which has a very large footprint. Immediately the fish was acting like a wild MI and very shortly after it was eating 1mm and 2mm NLS pellets and Zoe/zoecon supplemented pe mysis.
My little guy can be found at the most turbulent, highest flow areas. Its been over a year I believe which the article I spoke of claimed to be near impossible.
I'm so pleased to read all of these success stories. Prior to finding this thread everything Ive read has been very depressing.
I'm also concerned with angels harassing my idol. I have a maculosous that throughout the day chases the Idol. I know this is somewhat of a natural occurrence but its unneeded stress no doubt. Does anybody think it warrants removal of the Mac?
Here's the link to the tfh article:
http://www.tfhmagazine.com/details/...ter-all-these-years-keeping-moorish-idols.htm
http://www.tfhmagazine.com/details/...ter-all-these-years-keeping-moorish-idols.htm
gofor100
New member
Interesting read... find it funny how things have changed, but at the same time haven't changed.
I mean, more people are obviously finding successful ways to keep this fish longer (which is apparent from this thread), but I'm sure just as many people aren't successful.
None of us a true experts, but there is one tip I would give this guy... "Get a back-up energy source or move out of your current location so that you stop having consistent multi-day power outtages!" I mean, he seriously didn't learn from the first power outtage???
-Chad
Keimaxbode
New member
Help with MI please
Help with MI please
I have had my MI for just over a year. I got him from LA, was eating NLS pellets right away, he and 2 Butterflys were freshwater dipped then given a Formalin bath and QT'd in a 55 gal at 1.008-9 for 4 week, dosed for a week with Maracyn-Two when one of the BF's showed some red streaks. During all this time, he ate well (slowed down during the week of Maracyn treatment, but once that was finished, began eating normally again. Has since eaten almost anything I put in the tank including: NLS pellets, flake, Aquadine wafers/pellets, Hikari algae wafers, Tetra freeze dried bloodworms, Nori, clams, frozen Formula 1 & 2, Mysis, ON Butterfly formula, Rod's Food (Pacific Plankton).
After adding the new fish to my DT, saw some signs of Ich so did another 6 weeks of hypo in which all adjusted well and no problems with loss of appetite during that treatment. Now a year later, after introducing a 3rd BF from LA's Divers Den (2 months ago), saw signs of Ich on the new BF so waited a few days to determine it wasn't just him getting stressed from the transfer then put all fish in hypo again. After getting the salinity down to 1.008-9, I noticed the MI got spooked (seemed like from the repositioning of power heads which I do every time I do a water change so nothing new to him). He darted around the tank, bumped into glass, acted as if he wasn't seeing well (I noticed a much milder incident of this behavior when he was in QT when first arrived. He finally settled down, but breathing hard, then wouldn't eat so not sure if the hypo, the power head move or something else caused the eating issue since they all happened at the same time.
A couple of days later he spooked again, not sure why, and went through the same behavior but more intense, this time ending up nose down in some rocks (I gently nudged him out), then laid against the tank, breathing hard again, then recovered again. Now it has been a full week that he hasn't eaten anything that I can tell. On a few occasions, he has "strutted" like I would imagine they might do when mating (of course I don't know this but he has never done it before). Could this have something to do with becoming of breeding age? I couldn't find much information and don't even know if I have a male or female. And could the fact that many stop eating after doing well, eating anything and everything for the first year have anything to do with becoming sexually mature? I haven't seen this listed as a possible cause of the losses after a year other than some have suggested they need to be in pairs, but others have tried that and found it not to work.
I've tried all of his fav foods, I've soaked in Vita Chem, garlic, cod liver oil. I haven't tried live food as we don't have anyone that sells it locally so I would need to order on line or travel to Indy or Dayton for it. I have an order ready to send to LA for live brine and live mysis but haven't finalized it as I wanted to check here first to see if there were any other suggestions.
In the article referenced recently, the guy says once they stop eating, they won't start again. Is that everyone's experience here that has had that happen? Has anyone known of them eating again and if so, what?
Water: SG 1.0085; AM 0; NI 0; NA 10; pH 8.2; Temp 78-79.
None of the other fish are having issues and are eating normally. The MI is the largest fish in my 100G (5ft); with him: 3 BF's, 1 BG Chrom, 1 BW Occ Clown, 1 Lemonpeel Angel.
He is acting normally now except for eating. How long can they go without eating? He was fat initially and still looks chunky in the lower region, but I think I read that it is in the upper (dorsal) region that you need to look so I'm not sure what it should/shouldn't look like there.
Any/all suggestions appreciated. I don't want to lose him if there is anything I can do to prevent it. Should I take him out of hypo even though he's only been in for 1 week. Supposed to be in for 4-6 weeks after spots disappear completely (that happened on 3/20).
Thanks. I believe this thread was responsible for my being able to keep him this long and realize the 100g tank is truly too small for a full grown MI even though many references say that is the min size. I am shopping for another tank 200+ G but by that article, even that isn't large enough. I know that Paul was able to keep his MI for 4 years I think in this size tank so can't place the blame on the tank size though I'm sure it doesn't help. I've got a line on a 300G from CL now so if he pulls through, I'll pick that up and hope for the best.
Sorry so long, but could really use some suggestions as quickly as possible.
Diana
Help with MI please
I have had my MI for just over a year. I got him from LA, was eating NLS pellets right away, he and 2 Butterflys were freshwater dipped then given a Formalin bath and QT'd in a 55 gal at 1.008-9 for 4 week, dosed for a week with Maracyn-Two when one of the BF's showed some red streaks. During all this time, he ate well (slowed down during the week of Maracyn treatment, but once that was finished, began eating normally again. Has since eaten almost anything I put in the tank including: NLS pellets, flake, Aquadine wafers/pellets, Hikari algae wafers, Tetra freeze dried bloodworms, Nori, clams, frozen Formula 1 & 2, Mysis, ON Butterfly formula, Rod's Food (Pacific Plankton).
After adding the new fish to my DT, saw some signs of Ich so did another 6 weeks of hypo in which all adjusted well and no problems with loss of appetite during that treatment. Now a year later, after introducing a 3rd BF from LA's Divers Den (2 months ago), saw signs of Ich on the new BF so waited a few days to determine it wasn't just him getting stressed from the transfer then put all fish in hypo again. After getting the salinity down to 1.008-9, I noticed the MI got spooked (seemed like from the repositioning of power heads which I do every time I do a water change so nothing new to him). He darted around the tank, bumped into glass, acted as if he wasn't seeing well (I noticed a much milder incident of this behavior when he was in QT when first arrived. He finally settled down, but breathing hard, then wouldn't eat so not sure if the hypo, the power head move or something else caused the eating issue since they all happened at the same time.
A couple of days later he spooked again, not sure why, and went through the same behavior but more intense, this time ending up nose down in some rocks (I gently nudged him out), then laid against the tank, breathing hard again, then recovered again. Now it has been a full week that he hasn't eaten anything that I can tell. On a few occasions, he has "strutted" like I would imagine they might do when mating (of course I don't know this but he has never done it before). Could this have something to do with becoming of breeding age? I couldn't find much information and don't even know if I have a male or female. And could the fact that many stop eating after doing well, eating anything and everything for the first year have anything to do with becoming sexually mature? I haven't seen this listed as a possible cause of the losses after a year other than some have suggested they need to be in pairs, but others have tried that and found it not to work.
I've tried all of his fav foods, I've soaked in Vita Chem, garlic, cod liver oil. I haven't tried live food as we don't have anyone that sells it locally so I would need to order on line or travel to Indy or Dayton for it. I have an order ready to send to LA for live brine and live mysis but haven't finalized it as I wanted to check here first to see if there were any other suggestions.
In the article referenced recently, the guy says once they stop eating, they won't start again. Is that everyone's experience here that has had that happen? Has anyone known of them eating again and if so, what?
Water: SG 1.0085; AM 0; NI 0; NA 10; pH 8.2; Temp 78-79.
None of the other fish are having issues and are eating normally. The MI is the largest fish in my 100G (5ft); with him: 3 BF's, 1 BG Chrom, 1 BW Occ Clown, 1 Lemonpeel Angel.
He is acting normally now except for eating. How long can they go without eating? He was fat initially and still looks chunky in the lower region, but I think I read that it is in the upper (dorsal) region that you need to look so I'm not sure what it should/shouldn't look like there.
Any/all suggestions appreciated. I don't want to lose him if there is anything I can do to prevent it. Should I take him out of hypo even though he's only been in for 1 week. Supposed to be in for 4-6 weeks after spots disappear completely (that happened on 3/20).
Thanks. I believe this thread was responsible for my being able to keep him this long and realize the 100g tank is truly too small for a full grown MI even though many references say that is the min size. I am shopping for another tank 200+ G but by that article, even that isn't large enough. I know that Paul was able to keep his MI for 4 years I think in this size tank so can't place the blame on the tank size though I'm sure it doesn't help. I've got a line on a 300G from CL now so if he pulls through, I'll pick that up and hope for the best.
Sorry so long, but could really use some suggestions as quickly as possible.
Diana
