The Reef Central Corner Club Thread

vickreyreef said:
I have a 92G tank and want to get a melenarus wrasse...as I am afraid of it jumping I want to create a clear netting top but have no clue how to do it because of the shape of the tank...

anyone here do it? If so how and with what materials etc??

TIA!!!!
Click to expand...

I made a top with screen frame and the clear netting from Bulk Reef Supply. Its a pain to bend the frame but if you google it you will find some people who have posted pics. Biggest issue I had is due to the shape and cut outs I needed for return and overflow I was unable to keep the top square and the netting tight.
 
oh wow! so did you use all the same materials I see everyone else using on the internet? you didn't use anything different to get the curve? Any pictures?
 
I built a jig on a piece of plywood and bent the frame with a heat gun. PM me I will forward you a link and pics, as they are from another site.
 
liquidplumber said:
Have used 36" current with 2-150hqi fixture to t-5's and last mont tried 2 120 evolutions 14k and now the AI's SOL BLUE, These AI's blow away the evolutions and are less wattage, Wish I went this route 1st, here's a couple pics.
Click to expand...

Awesome light set up. I know what I'm getting now lol. Could you get away with one AI, or is two a must?
 
6 month old 54 bowfront corner

6 month old 54 bowfront corner

Hey guys and gals,

Let me describe my tank. I have 90 lbs of live rock, 45 pounds of live sand. I run my tank with a hang on cpr refugium with skimmer and a small hang on back simple filter for polishing. I run a 20 inch Nova Extreme Pro with 6 t5ho slimpaq bulbs three white , three blue. I use a couple of supports from front to back to have the fixture over my tank. I am getting a Coralife 150 metal halide clamp on Monday. Is that going to be enough light for what I keep. I keep some shrooms, xenia, toadstool, and a hammer. I just like the halide look so much better with the shimmer. and crisp look. I also recently added a topoff system with m rodi water bottle under the tank in the shelf run by a aqualifter pump. I have been wanting to use Kalkwasser. That should be easily done using my top off right? My question is, how do you know how much you are dripping with the pump? I use a 5 gallon water bottle that you see on water coolers. I know nothing about Kalk dosing but i assume it is used as your evaporation calls fro more water by my top off. Please let me know your thoughts on this. I do have a difficult time keeping my ph up and figured the kalk would be a great benefit for this as well as calcium. THanks and its great I found this for people with bowfront corners.
 
I can say if you are only keeping a few LPS and softies that the 150 watt MH will be enough light.
I ran a 150 pendant over my 92 and it was plenty for a non-SPS tank!
My 92 is 24" deep.
Try the 20K if using it solo.
 
I run kalkwasser in my topoff for my 54 (mainly sps) and I use 2 teaspoons per gallon of ro water. If I were you, I would start with a half teaspoon per gallon as a starting point. And then as you test your water after a while can adjust as needed. That is how I started out and it made a world of difference in my coral growth overall health of the tank.
My tank is full of sps and the 2 teaspoons per gallon keeps up well with my calcium needs and stabilizes my alkalinity and ph.
 
dutchbros said:
I run kalkwasser in my topoff for my 54 (mainly sps) and I use 2 teaspoons per gallon of ro water. If I were you, I would start with a half teaspoon per gallon as a starting point. And then as you test your water after a while can adjust as needed. That is how I started out and it made a world of difference in my coral growth overall health of the tank.
My tank is full of sps and the 2 teaspoons per gallon keeps up well with my calcium needs and stabilizes my alkalinity and ph.
Click to expand...

Does the kalkwasser precipitate at that concentration?
Will it clog any valves or pumps?
 
Basically yes at 2 teaspoons. If you start with 1/2 tsp there should not be much that settles out. All of the kalkwasser that doesnt disolve into the water will settle out to the bottom of the container. Just make sure you are taking the water from at least a few inches off the bottom. You do not want the settled out kalk in the tank, just the clear water. After time it will clog valves and pumps. I have to clean my skimmer venturi valve at least once every few months and the aqualifter as well. I have found that in my experience, I prefer kalkwasser to dosing a and b calcium and buffer. It is cheaper and just as effective, in fact I had better results than with the a and b. I know another reefer that will run kalk ,even though he doses a and b, and doesnt need it for calcium, just because it keeps his ph up and stable, especially at night.
 
Great info , thanks. The new MH comes with a 14 K , so I will start out there and see how I like it. Gonna start the Kalk too with the same setup you have. I am using a 5 gallon bottle like used on water coolers. Do I need to cover the top hole with just the tube coming out, as I have heard that when using kalk you need to enclose the container. Other than that I am ready to roll. Thanks again.
 
Anyone running 2 MP40's in their 92 gallon corner? I was thinking about building them into the rock wall. One lower than the other, one on back glass, another on the other back glass. Aiming to creating sort of a swirl. Bad idea? Good idea?
 
New 54g Corner Build

New 54g Corner Build

Please let me introduce myself. I am Matt from New Hampshire and I have been dreaming of my first reef tank for close to six years now. I have had a 54g corner in storage for a few years and have been hoping to have my first reef be a 120 in wall but due to the possibility of a move I have put the build off for almost 2 years. I finally decided that I didn't want to wait anymore so I am building out the 54g. If by some chance a move still happens a move should not be too much difficulty.

I figured I wouldn't bother with a build thread because I expect the build to take a few months but I do want to update and look forward to comments and suggestions from those more experienced.

Right now I am building the stand and hood. This is what I have so far:

Basic Framework:
DSC07491.jpg

DSC07490.jpg


Partially skinned. The shelf in the back corner will support plumbing since this tank need to be drilled out the back instead of the bottom.
DSC07493.jpg

DSC07492.jpg


This is with the front skin being glued on. This was a pain to do by myself. The front is skinned with a bendable 3/8" plywood:
DSC07495.jpg


I also have some trim on order for both the stand and hood that should really make it look good. Great site for all those doing corner DIY projects:
http://www.trimster.com/default.asp
 
I'd like to lay out my current thoughts for the build and would love to hear some feedback and suggestions.

Mixed Reef tank, I really don't have a specific stock list in mind and some of the ideas I had for the 120 probably won't be suitable for this tank so the stock list is TBD.

Flow:
2x Tunze Nanostream 6025

Return:
Tunze 1073

Skimmer:
Reef Octopus Extreme XS 160

Reef Keeper lite to control temp with additional functions down the road.

I'm planning on dosing BRS 2 part and using BRS reactors for GFO and Carbon.

Thats about as far as I've gotten- open to suggestions.
 
Tundra, I can tell you are quite a woodworker from the nice stand that you built. Looking forward to the progress of your tank.

For those who are building your own stand, don't be limited by the foot print of your tank. Build your stand larger so you can have room to house a bigger sump, all your equipment and supplies underneath your tank. Also keep your tank at least 4-6 inches from the walls so you have room to route all your return plumbing and wirings. The gaps between the tank and walls can be covered with trims or panels. JMO.
 
SimonSKL said:
Tundra, I can tell you are quite a woodworker from the nice stand that you built. Looking forward to the progress of your tank.

For those who are building your own stand, don't be limited by the foot print of your tank. Build your stand larger so you can have room to house a bigger sump, all your equipment and supplies underneath your tank. Also keep your tank at least 4-6 inches from the walls so you have room to route all your return plumbing and wirings. The gaps between the tank and walls can be covered with trims or panels. JMO.
Click to expand...

Thanks,

I had actually considered running 6" sides so the tank would be sitting completely inside the stand. Like you say that would give quite a bit more sump room and allow everything to be hidden. I decided to keep it fairly simple though because it will likely end up being a second tank in the future. The large in wall will still happen when we someday find the right house to buy. My wife and I really like seahorse tanks so this setup will probably end up doing that.

Matt
 
Finished up the basic hood this morning. This is it until I get my order of radius trim in, hopefully by the weekend. Very happy with the way this turned out, there is plenty of room to get in and work.

DSC07499.jpg

DSC07500.jpg


Thanks,
-Matt
 
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