the secret to colorful,healthy corals....obvious to some,elusive to many

Any thing I should do to prep my tank for success? I am coming to the end of my cycle. NO3 are 2ppm, PO4 is .049ppm, Ammonia 0, nitrtaes 0, only thing I have added is a few hermits and snails. going to let them run around a few weeks then try a Chromis or two. I am going to start logging Calcium and Alk to try and keep steady. This is a great thread, thanks
 
First off great thread! Lots of good info here. I started following this thread back in January and have remained silent until I had some results to report.

Second, Joe that is an amazing tank and it is my hope my new tank will be as nice as yours, so I have been taking my time and making changes slowly. I commended your success. Truly amazing!

My tank has varied from 12 to 5 dKH and the color did not change. I do believe that stable alkalinity is a key to colorful coral, but raising alkalinity above that which exists in nature does not change the color of coral of that I am sure.
Joe :beer:

Joe, with respect to your statement above, I have experienced the opposite. I feel that a high Dkh coupled with the intensity of the Radion LEDs did cause my few SPS to loose color.

So I have a couple question with respect to your comment:

1) have you ever ran DKH levels above 11 for a period of 6 months or more?
2) If so what type of lighting were you using? Were you using LEDs?

My results:
On my old system, I ran 250MH, and kept DKh around 7-8. My SPS color was ok, probaly slightly better than average, but I was also some what of a slacker in terms of husbandry, mainly becuase of setup. When I designed this new system (built a new house, so it was easy to make things simple) my #1 goal was SPS color and being able to easily perform tasks. And I have acheieved that. But what killed me is that even though I was doing everything as I thought I should, when I added my first few SPS, color started to fade a couple months later, by December 2012 I was thoroughly frustrated.

My new tank was setup in May of 2012. I added my first SPS corals in September-- a Green monti cap, a very hardy SPS coral and a Valida frag which had amazing color. These pieces were to be my test pieces! And until I knew that color would hold or improve, nothing else was to be added. My Dkh levels were maintained over 10.5 and mostly around 11.5. All my other tests (Ca, Mg, No3, Po4) were in check. But color was fading? That's when I really started researching all that I could find. My conclusion after reading many of the articles by Dana Riddle on AA in conjunction with this thread and many other threads on RC, my DKH had to be reduced and I also probably needed to reduce my photo period. In February I started tracking my result very closely and by March I was seeing color return. I will post a detailed account of what I did, but I feel the two things that I can attribute to my success is reducing my Alk levels and reducing photo period.

I will try and post some pics of the Valida and Green monti. I will also post a detailed accounting of what I did and the test results. The test results will probably lead others to draw different conclusions--mainly that adding I2, Fe and part D red sea reef colors may have helped, but my coral coloration was already recovering well before I started dosing these supplements. Since starting these supplements, they may have helped. I should also note I have a reasonable bio load on the tank which I am relying on to help feed corals. I am not not feeding my corals directly. And I have read all of Borneman's stuff. This tank is striving to be ULNS.

HTH others.

Cheers!
Brett
 
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Test Results

Test Results

These results are only from January onward. Before this date, I had been testing weekly Alk, Ca, Mg, No3 and Po4. But I was not as diligent about noting the levels. I just tested and made adjustements as needed.

For Ca, Mg, and No3 I am using Salifert, for Alk and Po4 I am using Hanna. I recently purchased the Red Sea No3 test kit to see if it is any better than the Salifert. Also for I2, Fe and K I have been using Red Sea.

I'll try and provide some shots of the corals tomorrow night. I have an SLR, but unfortunately I did not use it to snap any pictures of the corals when they faded. I only have some shots using my iPhone/iPad. I'll will use the SLR for these next shots.
 

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My theory on lower alk being better for color comes from scrubber experience: Strong scrubber growth (photosynthesis) can pull a lot of alk from the water, and likewise, a lack of alk can slow a scrubber down.

So, higher alk gives the symbiotic algae in the coral more ability to grow, and thus, a darker coloring.
 
My tank has varied from 12 to 5 dKH and the color did not change. I do believe that stable alkalinity is a key to colorful coral, but raising alkalinity above that which exists in nature does not change the color of coral of that I am sure.
Joe :beer:


I disagree and have a completely opposite experience.

My Alk started around 7.9dKh and based on recommendations from this forum, I slowly raised my Alk from 7.9dKh to 9.89dKh over a period of about 45 days. In the same time period, I watched my corals bleach....all of them.

After letting my Alk drop back to where I hold it now (~7.5dKh) all of the corals color has returned. All other parameters such as Calcium, pH, Temperature, Nitrate, Phosphate, etc has remained the same.

So based on my experience, your statement cannot be applied as a blanked to all tanks.
 
Here's an interesting study on light and photosynthesis in corals. I'm not suggesting going to HD to buy $20 bulbs, but all the same, it is interesting, considering what's the general belief is regarding spectrum.

Advanced Aquarist
 
I disagree and have a completely opposite experience.

My Alk started around 7.9dKh and based on recommendations from this forum, I slowly raised my Alk from 7.9dKh to 9.89dKh over a period of about 45 days. In the same time period, I watched my corals bleach....all of them.

After letting my Alk drop back to where I hold it now (~7.5dKh) all of the corals color has returned. All other parameters such as Calcium, pH, Temperature, Nitrate, Phosphate, etc has remained the same.

So based on my experience, your statement cannot be applied as a blanked to all tanks.

Spyderturbo, what lights do you have? I have LEDs (Radions with TIR lenses) I found my corals like it when Alk 7.5-8.0 dKH.
 

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I have the AquaticLife 4 x 54w T5 HO fixtures. I've bought corals from people that say to "blast them with light" because there was no way my T5s could match their MH setup. I've brought the corals home and bleached them. So it had to be the Alkalinity because all I did was change that concentration.
 
I've had my alk at about 9dkh, and No3 between 2-5 (salifert) and PO4 at best .08 (Hanna ULR Phosphorus) and my lighting is really high for a 72 Gal (2 -250 W MH + about 300W of LEDs). Calc is between 410 and 420.

A lot of folks comment / say how colorful my corals are. Most of the theory on this thread is beyond my chemistry understanding, but interesting nonetheless.





 
The conclusion I've reached, with my limited knowledge and research, is that if you have detectable Nitrates and Phosphates you can run elevated Alkalinity. If on the other hand, you have an ULN system and Nitrates and Phosphates are undetectable, you have to run Alkalinity close to what you find in NSW.

But that's just my personal observation coupled with a tiny bit of personal experience. :D
 
Please, so that I am not highjacking this thread jump on my thread and please explain how I should remove the sandbed from my system. I do have one question can I keep a sandbed at all say 2". thanks

Yes, but siphon the sand bed often and it will be beautiful and clean and wonderful to look at. (probably what you wanted to have when you put sand in there in the first place)

So then I should ask, since I'm still setting up: I want to have a fauna farm, as well as beautiful corals. My concern is that when I'm vacuuming out the sand I'm reducing the fauna as well as the detritus. Any answers how to avoid that? No sense in trying to build up a mass of 'pods just to flush them down the toilet.
 
So then I should ask, since I'm still setting up: I want to have a fauna farm, as well as beautiful corals. My concern is that when I'm vacuuming out the sand I'm reducing the fauna as well as the detritus. Any answers how to avoid that? No sense in trying to build up a mass of 'pods just to flush them down the toilet.

Set up two tanks. One swamp (AKA "fauna farm"), and one coral reef.

We wouldn't keep a hamster in a cage, and leave its waste on the bottom until it harbored massive quantities of bugs and worms, then expect the hamster to do well.

If we wouldn't keep a hamster under such foul conditions, why would we keep animals, from one of the cleanest environments on the planet, under such foul conditions and expect them to do well?

Peace
EC
 
Current situation; I have a sandbed that is full of mulm (and fauna). The sandbed got redone 18 months ago during a tank upgrade, but I haven't vacuumed it at all since. I keep having undetectable phostphates and nitrates (salifert kits). SPS/LPS etc corals are looking good and growing fine (time for another tank upgrade). I'm not sure what this adds to the discussion, but I'm thinking it is time to vacuum out perhaps a third of the sandbed and replace it with fresh sand, letting the fauna reseed the vacuumed part. Since things are working fine and are stable, I'm hesitant to dink with it, but it seems in my case that a dirty sandbed isn't causing problems. --Lars
 
Set up two tanks. One swamp (AKA "fauna farm"), and one coral reef.

We wouldn't keep a hamster in a cage, and leave its waste on the bottom until it harbored massive quantities of bugs and worms, then expect the hamster to do well.

If we wouldn't keep a hamster under such foul conditions, why would we keep animals, from one of the cleanest environments on the planet, under such foul conditions and expect them to do well?

Peace
EC

Amen.:thumbsup:
 
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