Grim, I have been reading this thread for years. I have also read the T-5 par values and T-5 lamp pictures. Mixed reef with sps.
Questions,
1) How much Actinic lighting do you need.
2) Blue Plus
Actinic White
Blue Plus
GE 6500K Daylight
Blue Plus
ATI Aquablue = 12K
3) Blue Plus
Actinic White
Blue Plus
GE 6500K Daylight
Blue Plus
Blue plus = 14k
4) Blue Plus
Actinic White
Blue Plus
GE 6500K Daylight / replace with Aquasun what would it do
Blue Plus
ATI Aquablue = ?
5) Blue Plus
Actinic White
Blue Plus replace with Fiji Purple what would it do
GE 6500K Daylight
Blue Plus
ATI Aquablue = ?
6) Blue Plus
Actinic White
Blue Plus
GE 6500K Daylight replace with Atinic white or 75/25
Blue Plus
ATI Aquablue
I understand B+ and aquablue. I dont understand where fiji purple fits in. I see ge6500 uvl 75/25 and Atinic White are basically the same. where does the aquasun fit in. I know the Atinic white is pinker than the ge 6500. Lastly I dont understand how much atinic you need ie Pure atinic or atinic plus.
I could also add one or two VHO Atinics retros to my system.
I know you have answered there many times but I am unable to pull the info out of the threads. Thank you
A little cut and past action, sorry but I can't link you to where I posted this without violating the UA, This should answer your questions.
"Which lamps?
At the current time I only recommend ATI, AquaScience, Giesemann/D&D, UV Lighting, GE/Phillips Daylight, Narva and Sylvania lamps (And the Sfiligoi actinic) The KZ Fiji purple is OK although I don't think it is worth the price. One big difference between T5 lamps and Halides is that the blue T5's actually have very good PAR, More than the daylight lamps.
Actinic lamps peak around 420nm and provide low amounts of violet light and some UV range light that is good at causing fluorescence, mainly noticeable in the green range many LPS and soft corals have. The good actinics IMO are UVL Super Actinic, ATI Actinic, Sfigioli Super Blue Actinic, all which have a slightly bluer look and the Giesemann Pure Actinic which is more of a violet look.
Blue Lamps peak around 460nm and provide a high level of blue light and in most cases a good amount of PAR. They cause good fluorescence in most colors other than certain greens and are excellent at blending out the greenish yellow tint of 10K halide lamps. The good blue lamps are the ATI Blue Plus, Giesemann Actinic Plus, AquaScience 22000K Blue, Narva and Sylvania blues. The Helios Super Blue is a nice lamp if you can find it.
Daylight/Sun lamps provide a white, yellowish or even greenish white light. You should try to include at least one of these lamps in your mix to provide the Yellow and red spectrum you need to provide accurate color representation in your tank. Of course that is up to your personal taste. The good lamps are the UVL Aquasun (which has a slightly pinkish orange tint) GE 6500K Daylight, AquaScience 15000K "œSpecial", Giesemann Midday and the Current 10K is OK. The AquaScience special is probably the only one that would look acceptable as a stand alone lamp but as far as being art of a mix I can take or leave it.
Daylight/actinic combination lamps are just that, a combination of actinic and daylight phosphors. The ATI and Giesemann Aquablue lamps (60/40 actinic/daylight mix) look ice white with a slight hint of blue and are excellent stand alone lamps that provide a large amount of PAR. They are nice for brightening up a mix of lamps if you want to remove a slight amount of blue from the overall mix. Same for the AquaScience 15000K "œDuo" which is slightly bluer. The UVL Actinic White has a pepto pink looking tint that may have its uses if you wanted to add a slight amount of red which is helpful in popping pink and purple colors. It does have a good amount of PAR. UVL also has a 75/25 lamp that looks white with a almost lavender colored tint. I really like this lamp. Good for brightening up a tank while providing a lot of actinic range light and decent PAR. I think it is an excellent choice for SPS tanks where a straight actinic might not really do much for the corals look. This lamp has a bit of red output and will make a noticeable contribution to PAR output.
Specialty lamps. KZ Fiji Purple looks to me like an Aquablue lamp that had most of the green and yellow spectrum removed. Some people swear by this lamp but I just don't see it. The GE 3000K is a more harsh way to add red spectrum but it has strong PAR so if you have 8 lamps and want to boost your red spectrum without giving up intensity this is a good choice. Adding red to your mix tends to give a slightly purplish tint to a tank so I hesitate to recommend them for a new setup or those with less than 6 lamps. The look isn't for everybody."
Since I wrote that section I have taken to using the Actinic White over the Aquasun because the AW adds some actinic.
You don't need actinic lamps period. I can only see the deference they make in some green colors or in a dusk/dawn combo.