The T5 Q&a Thread

Status
Not open for further replies.
Im using Aqua blue plus, i think its just too blue.



Sent from my iPhone using My fingers

So you are running the Blue Plus bulbs. There isn't an Aquablue Plus currently. There is an Aquablue Special but it is a white bulb.

You could try another Purple plus or even try a KZ Coral Light or New Generation in place of a Blue Plus. The coral light bulb will definitely make it more white but might be what you are looking for.
 
Those graphs they market the T5 lamps with are about as accurate as a stick figure drawing of a man according to a couple people who have put them under a Spectrometer. I have a visual spectrometer that acts somewhat like a prism and I would agree with their assessment.

Yes I know that the graphs provided by the manufacturers are crude and not always accurate. You could say they are rgw ideal of what the manfacturer wants you to think your buying. There is also the point that manufacturers do not scale these plots consistantly. However unless you have other means to measure them yourself they are one step above nothing.

The prism spectometer system is very crude but should be able show that your someplace close to what the manufacturer is advertising. Again though this accuracy does vary considerably from manufacturer to manufacturer. The prism also is also more of estimation and it is very hard tto determine if the peaks are at say 417 nm or 450 nm that you many be seeing.

Years ago I had access to an electronic spectrometer and this was realy the ideal. However today an accurate one is the thousands of dollars and there are very few around other than thiose owned by some of the lighting corperations.


As far as red goes the corals don't HAVE to have it. Depending on the coral they might do better having red and the colors usually look better but remember water filters out red spectrum first so anything deeper than about 15 feet (if memory serves) won't see any red light

The red issue has been brought up very often and I do agree with you some extent. As you go deeper into the water the less red light you have penetrating. Therefore deep water corals probably have little direct need for that red right however some of the shaller corals are still probably dependent upon it. If my memory serves me correctly the longest visable wave lenghts basicly decrease in half for every 4 or 5 feet. So at 15 feet you have about 1/8 to 1/16 of the red you would have on the surface.

I will agree that red is not as important by any means as the 414nm to 485 nm range is for corals. However if it is available they will utilize it and for appearance purposes it will change a coral that is red from looking very dark redish brown to a bright red unles it is coral that is actualy florescent red by absorbing a different wave lenght and converting it to a red wavelenght.
 
Now that I think of it Dana Riddle did an experiment where he only provided red light to corals and they weren't happy, an interesting read

http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2008/12/aafeature1

Yes this is quite understandable.
Chloraphyll A requries a majority of light at 417 nm
Chlorophyll B requires a majority of light at 436 nm
B carorene required a majority of light at 445 nm
violaxanthin requires a majority of light at 445 nm
lutein requires a majority of light at 452 nm

These are all basicly in the blue range with some in the atinic range. While
Chlorophyll a uses light at 655nm
and Chlorophyl b uses light at 625 nm
these are secondary wavelenghts . It is like putting the corals on a diet where you miss the main nutrement and only provide a socendary nutrement hoping its excess will make up for the missing elements.
 
Riddle's conclusion is Red light limits coral growth.

Going through his data I would differ to that conclusion and say that excessive red light limits growth. If your obverseve all the lights they used did produce red light. While the 20,000K produced the best growth it still produced more than 1/3 of the amount of red light as the 10,000K bulb produced.

What I also find instring is that the 5,500K bulbs actualy gave better growth than the 10,000K bulbs even though the 20,000K gave the best growth.

Having been trained in Six Sigma and worked with it considerably over 15 years I would have looked at a completly different way to make these determinations. Mainly using light two sepeate light sources ine prodicing light in the 417nm to 485 nm blue range and a second source with the 625 nm to 655 nm range red range. Then keeping the known major blue light constant on all samples I would have each of the sanples exposed to different intesities of red light including one sample where where red red light was elininated.


Riddle said:
The work of Schlacher, Stark and Fischer is important, and a great stride in improving our understanding of the effects of artificial light on coral growth and survival.

However, we should remember that these results are from experiments with a single species collected from a specific depth and geographical location. This information may, or may not, be applicable to other corals. Clearly, more research is needed, but this does not lessen the importance of these researchers' results.

In addition, we should also note that Kelvin ratings are a poor indicator of true spectral quality - that is, it is a mistake to judge the 'warmness' or 'coolness' of a lamp when Kelvin is based on measurements made of lamps possessing 'spiky' line spectra such as mercury vapor or metal halides.

Noting that they used on one particular coral I would also try these tests and various corals. It is known that various corals have different ratios of various chemicals working within them and there fore what may be true for one coral may not be neccessarly true for another coral.

Looking at some of the LED lighting forums I see loads of stories where one particular set of LED lights are working fantastic for some people howver for others they are having complaints especialy in color shifts. These usualy turn out to be different corals that the individuals are working with. So this further makes me suggest that the lighting that is ideal for coral A might not be ideal for coral B.

Having worked considerably with LEDs they generaly produce narrower bands of and therefore I think we are seeing these more readily in the LED lighted tanks than the HO T-5 lighted or Metal Hide lited tanks that by nature produce brawder band witdths.

Keep in mind that even the plots you displayed for Chlorphyll A the intensity of the blue light required is roughly 50% of the red light, and for Chlorophyll B roughly 25%. Yet when you have a 6,500K bulb with a CRI of 100 the output
of red and blue is roughly equal.

Therefore it is my belief that some red light is still an important element however I will agree that an excessive amount of red light can easily cause issues. The question being how much red is benificial and how much is detrimental.

Remember in your posts Grim you often recommend the purple + bulbs. These pruple plus bulbs are virtualy bulbs with a secondary peak at 615nm in the red spectrum , the aqua blue special having its third peak at about 610 nm in the red spectrum, and the GE 6,500K bulb having a very strong and broad peak in the 610 nm range. In realate would you recommend a taqnk with only Blue = bulbs peaking at 450 nm and Atinic Bulbs peaking at 420 nm without any red wavelenghts at all?

In my experience with an 8 bulb system having one 6,500K bulb in my system did give the best coral growth when balanced with all the other bulbs giving strong light in the 410 to 460 nm range. However I did not like the overall color remdition from this bulb which appeared to yellow for my tastes and I also suspected was delivering to much light in the 565nm range which has been proven that Cyno Bacteria thrive at.
 
Eh, Call me crazy but I'll defer to the opinion of the guy who did the experiments and has published works until someone with better qualifications makes a case against his findings. It isn't like I shied away from recommending lamps with red output after reading this article. I always suspected they didn't do much for growth considering their use in horticulture but I didn't figure they would limit growth but unless someone is using nothing but red lamps I don't supect you'd see a difference in growth with or without them.
 
Bummed... after reading the roughly 5,000 of the posts in this thread that have been posted after the release of UVL's 18" T5 lamps, there are but 3 or 4 posts that deal with the 18" offerings specifically.

I have a 24G AquaPod, running a 6-bulb NEP fixture over it. For the first year, I ran the stock Current bulbs, 3-white / 3-460nm blue.

For most of the past year, I ran the stock arrangement but with Current's newer TrueLumen bulbs, again 3-white / 3-"actinic blue" (still the 460nm blue)

About two months ago, I swapped out two of the 12,000K white bulbs, putting in one additional TrueLumen 460nm blue and one Aquatic Life 420/460 blue lamp.

This most recent configuration is bordering on a little too blue for me, but not by much... aesthetically, it is very pleasing. The biggest thing I have noticed since going with the bluer look and adding in the Aquatic Life lamp with a little of the 420 phosphors in it is that my coral growth has really increased.

For the two years I have been running the NEP, it has almost seemed to be a bit too much light for my little 24G AP. Lower light corals, such as mushrooms, leathers, and zoa/polyp type corals have done very poorly, regardless of placement in the tank. Even my higher light corals, such as pavona and montipora, placed high up in the tank have struggled. With the change to more blue and a little 420 for the past two months, hwever, things have really taken off.

With the exception of the Aquatic Life 420/460 lamp, the other lamps are due for replacement.


For Grim (et al):

Are the 18" UVL bulbs worthy of my consideration here? Should I add some UVL lamps mixed in with the other offerings? When I had my old 85G running, I ran nothing but UVL VHO T12 bulbs over it for years with great success... I used 3 - actinic white and 1 - super actinic bulb on that setup and loved it.

Unless the UVL lamps are worthy of consideration, I was thinking of maybe using:

2 - Aquatic Life 420/460 bulbs on my dawn/dusk timer for 9 hours.
2 (or 3) - TrueLumen 460 blue bulbs on the daylight timer for 7 hours
2 (or 1) - TrueLumen 12,000K white bulb
 
Bummed... after reading the roughly 5,000 of the posts in this thread that have been posted after the release of UVL's 18" T5 lamps, there are but 3 or 4 posts that deal with the 18" offerings specifically.

I have a 24G AquaPod, running a 6-bulb NEP fixture over it. For the first year, I ran the stock Current bulbs, 3-white / 3-460nm blue.

For most of the past year, I ran the stock arrangement but with Current's newer TrueLumen bulbs, again 3-white / 3-"actinic blue" (still the 460nm blue)

About two months ago, I swapped out two of the 12,000K white bulbs, putting in one additional TrueLumen 460nm blue and one Aquatic Life 420/460 blue lamp.

This most recent configuration is bordering on a little too blue for me, but not by much... aesthetically, it is very pleasing. The biggest thing I have noticed since going with the bluer look and adding in the Aquatic Life lamp with a little of the 420 phosphors in it is that my coral growth has really increased.

For the two years I have been running the NEP, it has almost seemed to be a bit too much light for my little 24G AP. Lower light corals, such as mushrooms, leathers, and zoa/polyp type corals have done very poorly, regardless of placement in the tank. Even my higher light corals, such as pavona and montipora, placed high up in the tank have struggled. With the change to more blue and a little 420 for the past two months, hwever, things have really taken off.

With the exception of the Aquatic Life 420/460 lamp, the other lamps are due for replacement.


For Grim (et al):

Are the 18" UVL bulbs worthy of my consideration here? Should I add some UVL lamps mixed in with the other offerings? When I had my old 85G running, I ran nothing but UVL VHO T12 bulbs over it for years with great success... I used 3 - actinic white and 1 - super actinic bulb on that setup and loved it.

Unless the UVL lamps are worthy of consideration, I was thinking of maybe using:

2 - Aquatic Life 420/460 bulbs on my dawn/dusk timer for 9 hours.
2 (or 3) - TrueLumen 460 blue bulbs on the daylight timer for 7 hours
2 (or 1) - TrueLumen 12,000K white bulb

Most of those blue lamps have actinic in them. IMO the Aquatic life lamps look to have a little more Green in the output which aint bad but it could be I am just spoiled with the LED's. I think using two of those with two current 460's is a good idea. When you get them see if you can see any difference and post back. As for the white lamps use an Aquatic Life 10K and their purple lamp. I have seen these and they work very well together with 4 blues.
 
As for the white lamps use an Aquatic Life 10K and their purple lamp. I have seen these and they work very well together with 4 blues.

I've only found that purple lamp at one online retailer and their price on the 18" bulbs is $7 more per bulb than my other chosen retailer... bummer.

Thanks for the input though... I thought two of the Aquatic Life 420/460 lamps mixed with two of the TrueLumen 460's would look pretty nice as well... never been real crazy about the TrueLumen white bulbs though so I'll give the AL purple and 10,000K combo and try and see what I think.
 
From what I've read on this thread, fixture quality for the better t-5 brands, from lower to higher is:

Aquatic Life

Teklight (using a desk fan/aquarium fan to cool)

Teklight Elite

Ati sunpower

Ati Powermodule

I'm I correct in my arrangement of fixtures from less to better quality? And, if there are other T-5 brands that are in this high quality range, what are they?
 
From what I've read on this thread, fixture quality for the better t-5 brands, from lower to higher is:

Aquatic Life

Teklight (using a desk fan/aquarium fan to cool)

Teklight Elite

Ati sunpower

Ati Powermodule

I'm I correct in my arrangement of fixtures from less to better quality? And, if there are other T-5 brands that are in this high quality range, what are they?

I'd put Aquatic life equal to or better than the Tek elite.
 
Ah okay, I had those wrong way around. Thank you.

I'm currently running a regular Tek light, 6 bulb fixture with a small fan blowing across the unit. I have ATI bulbs and a couple of GE daylights running. It's over a 50 gallon, (36"X18"X18") tank with three rather large Heteractis magnifica anemones in it. The anemones seem to respond very well under the T-5s.

I've been in an apt., but soon will be moving into a condo where ceiling suspension is an option. I'm wondering if an ATI 4-bulb Sunpower would provide roughly equivalent light to my current Tek 6-bulb? The Tek is on mounting brackets at the very lowest (closest to the water) I can get the fixture. If ATI is an option, how far above the tank should I have the fixture to get good spread and yet good intensity to 2/3 down the water column or so?

Thanks in advance.
 
My son has a 24" four bulbT5 fixture by Coralife and he's looking to get more "pop" from his coral. Kind of like a 14k Phoenix look. Anyone have any recommendations on the bulbs he should buy and what order they should be put in the fixture?
 
Ah okay, I had those wrong way around. Thank you.

I'm currently running a regular Tek light, 6 bulb fixture with a small fan blowing across the unit. I have ATI bulbs and a couple of GE daylights running. It's over a 50 gallon, (36"X18"X18") tank with three rather large Heteractis magnifica anemones in it. The anemones seem to respond very well under the T-5s.

I've been in an apt., but soon will be moving into a condo where ceiling suspension is an option. I'm wondering if an ATI 4-bulb Sunpower would provide roughly equivalent light to my current Tek 6-bulb? The Tek is on mounting brackets at the very lowest (closest to the water) I can get the fixture. If ATI is an option, how far above the tank should I have the fixture to get good spread and yet good intensity to 2/3 down the water column or so?

Thanks in advance.

20 inches or so above the tank
 
My son has a 24" four bulbT5 fixture by Coralife and he's looking to get more "pop" from his coral. Kind of like a 14k Phoenix look. Anyone have any recommendations on the bulbs he should buy and what order they should be put in the fixture?

Is that a T5 HO fixture, 24 watt lamps? If so 2 ATI Blue Plus, 1 ATI Purple Plus and a KZ New Generation would be good
 
Upgrading to a 120 in a few months... 6x54 tek or 8x54 tek?

If i get the 6x54 can i add a strip of reefbrite LEDs or similar?

I plan on using a canopy, keeping lps, maybe a little sps, and maybe a few softies. Just want something that will give me good growth and great color.

Thanks in advance.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top