The T5 Q&a Thread

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"What T5 setup would give me the par of a 250w XM SE setup, but have the same basic color of the Phoenix 250 I am running now."

Color of a pheonix, output of a XM? Easy, I run it. 2x aquablue/11,000K, 2x 20,000K/blue+, 2x actinic03. I have it side by side wity my pheonix, and its brighter, and the same coloration. I dont think its a good thing though. My pheonix is making my corals look very washed out, so I am considering getting rid of it. Some corals are turning to more of a white tint since I changed out bulbs earlier this summer.

Due to this 'lack of color' and the fact you will most likely want to get an 8 bulb unit over a 120g, I would run this...
2xaquablue
1x3000K/sun/sunpro
3xblue+
2xUVL Super Actinic
 
If looking for the best or one of the best t5 fixtures. What would someone reccomend between the Aquactinics Solaris or waitng for the ATI fixtures to come out.
 
The only advantage I see with the ATI is you can get 6 lamps and it comes with a hanging kit. Other than that it comes down to styling.
 
The main comparison I was wondering about is the par comparison. I remember you said that the ATI splash lens hardly reduced the par reading, I wonder if the Aquactinincs Solaris is going to be the same type of splash shield. The Solaris ovedrive their lamps with the Icecap ballasts, do you think that may make it brighter than the ATI since they say that they do not overdrive lamps, and what do you think of the comparison between their reflectors, I know Icecap's are supposed to be really good. Plus I would like to set the fixture directly on top of the aquarium without added heat, as Aquactinics says you can do with the Solaris. Thanks.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8471605#post8471605 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
Ice Cap 6x54 retrofit with 1 UVL Aquasun, 1 GE daylight or Geisemann Midday, 2 ATI Blue Plus, 1 ATI Aquablue and 1 UVL Super Actinic.

Don't know if it would have zactly the same look as a Phoenix but it would be bright and pop colors pretty good. It would likely meet or beat the XM PAR output.

I have a spare IC 660 ballast. Would you run 4 of the bulbs on the IC or just run the bulbs to spec?

Thanks again.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8474952#post8474952 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by grandp10
The main comparison I was wondering about is the par comparison. I remember you said that the ATI splash lens hardly reduced the par reading, I wonder if the Aquactinincs Solaris is going to be the same type of splash shield. The Solaris ovedrive their lamps with the Icecap ballasts, do you think that may make it brighter than the ATI since they say that they do not overdrive lamps, and what do you think of the comparison between their reflectors, I know Icecap's are supposed to be really good. Plus I would like to set the fixture directly on top of the aquarium without added heat, as Aquactinics says you can do with the Solaris. Thanks.

You mean the Solar Flare, it will be a lot brighter than the ATI becaus it overdrives. The ATI doesn't cause heat issues either.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8475015#post8475015 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by want2reef
I have a spare IC 660 ballast. Would you run 4 of the bulbs on the IC or just run the bulbs to spec?

Thanks again.

Depends on what you want to raise but it probably isn't a bad idea. Reefgeek will make you a deal on a 4 lamps Ice Cap retro minus ballast but you have to call him to set it up. Unless you plan a tank full of clams and SPS I would go with 4 overdriven and 4 at spec. You could probably get away with 2 at spec if you are careful with placement.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8475296#post8475296 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
You mean the Solar Flare, it will be a lot brighter than the ATI becaus it overdrives. The ATI doesn't cause heat issues either.
You're right I am sorry I do mean the Aquactinics Solar Flare. Do you beleive that fixture will run hotter than the ATI. Does overdriving add heat and extra light or just the extra light part. Thanks.
 
ok, i got the parts from reefgeek today for my t5's. a++++ service. anyway i got my lights working and they are to bue looking. i have 4 x54 bulbs. bulbs are 10k,atinic,blue+,aquablue.

any suggestions?
 
My turn to hit you up for some info Grim,

I am currently planning a tank for work

I am going to go with a 20L (30"L x 12 1/2"W x 13"T)

This tank is going to be LPS dominated... Acans, Micros and Echino's

I am thinking 6 24" T5HO for this setup.

I am wondering if this will support the type of coral I want and how well this lighting will promote growth and color. Also, what would you recommend in terms of Bulb/Ballast combo...

I currently have a 30 with a 250W MH 14K and 24WPC Actinic and I really like the color so I am hoping for the same nice blue look out of the T5's

So what do ya think, can it be pulled off and what would you recommend?

Thanks in advance for the wisdom you have shared on this thread.

Anyone else is welcome to chime in with your experiances as well. Thanks to all
 
hiya.. im a reefer noobie... had the will this light work set up question
i have a 40 breeder and the guy at the LFS reccomended a t5 set up
he pointed me to a 42 watt setup
one 21 watt 10k
one 21 watt acentic blue bulb
36 inchs long for my 40 gallon breeder..
can these T5s handle a reef tank like this ?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8475386#post8475386 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by grandp10
You're right I am sorry I do mean the Aquactinics Solar Flare. Do you beleive that fixture will run hotter than the ATI. Does overdriving add heat and extra light or just the extra light part. Thanks.

The solar flare will at least add more heat to the ambient air temp but that isn't a big deal if the tank is in a well ventilated area. Unless the tank is in a room that stays really warm and has little venting I don't see it causing a problem.
 
NO!!!

Those are normal output lamps that don't use individual reflectors. A 4x39 Tek light will do good for that tank.


<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8476186#post8476186 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Zestay
hiya.. im a reefer noobie... had the will this light work set up question
i have a 40 breeder and the guy at the LFS reccomended a t5 set up
he pointed me to a 42 watt setup
one 21 watt 10k
one 21 watt acentic blue bulb
36 inchs long for my 40 gallon breeder..
can these T5s handle a reef tank like this ?
 
hrmm would this light be to bright to rig as a moon light? or should i just return it for storecredit for a brighter light...?
 
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It is really worthless as anything other than maybe supplimental lighting for the tank unless you are just keeping softies. You could get another blue/actinic lamp and use it for dusk/dawn.
 
well i was planning on doing Zoa's and shrooms at first... this will be my first tank...
i know a SPS wont make it in in..

what do you mean by softies?
 
My t5's have decided to stop running after a few hours. When I notice I turn them off, then on and they fire up for a while then quit on me again. I am running 3x5' t5's as supplemental lighting for 3x250 mh's. The icecap guys said that the mh's are burning the t5's, so are t5's not supposed to be used w/ mh's?

Currently I have my fans turning on when the temp reaches 81, but I will change that so that they turn on when the lights turn on and hopefully that will work. I have 1 6" fan and 1 4.75" fan in my canopy. The canopy is 17" tall (14" clearance) and has an open back.

My current lighting schedule is t5's on for 10 hours, mh's on for 5 hours each, overlapping so that all three are on together for only 3 hours. Is this an adequate lighting schedule?

thoughts?
 
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