The T5 Q&a Thread

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Re: t5 bulbs

Re: t5 bulbs

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12252598#post12252598 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by newbreefer20
What do you guys think of this bulb choice for a 6 bulb tek 2 retrofit? 2 ATI Blue Plus 1 UVL super actinic 1 ATI Aquablue 1 UVL aquasun 1 ATI Pro Color

Should be fine although it might look a tad purple for some people's tast. I would add a 3rd Blue Plus in place of the aquablue if it were me.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12253850#post12253850 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
It would work but not a great idea in a canopy because it isn't designed for high humidity conditions like a canopy has.

Any other way to use it then, you think?

I may be getting a new one for free, so trying to see if I can figure out a way to use it.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12253320#post12253320 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by maxdout
GRIM,
im looking at getting the 4ft tek8 bulb fixture but would like more color/pop out of my corals than growth. would the following configuration in lights work for me? this is going over a 90.

Try this for pop and color. Still will have good PAR.

Front
Blue Plus
UVL Super Actinic
ATI Pro Color
Blue Plus
UVL Aquasun
Blue Plus
UVL 75/25
Blue Plus
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12253902#post12253902 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by SSpiro
Any other way to use it then, you think?

I may be getting a new one for free, so trying to see if I can figure out a way to use it.

Vent the canopy really well and run a couple fans.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12253920#post12253920 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
Vent the canopy really well and run a couple fans.

I can handle that. Thanks.
 
I have had a change with my lights. I am going to be running a 250w MH w/14K Phoenix bulb. I will be running 4x24w T5s with this setup and wanted to know what bulbs you think would work best to make the corals pop? Thanks.
 
Grim,

Would I be better off running a 72" VHO aquasun or would I get more par from the 60" T5 midday? Maybe I'll just break down and run 2 39watt T-5 aquasun bulbs if they give out significantly more PAR than the Midday.

Thoughts?

Midday. Pro Color doesn't have enough PAR



quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally posted by lubyone1
Hey Grim,

Below is what you advised me to do a while back and I've decided to run 4 80watt bulbs instead of 8 39watt bulbs.

Since my tank is viewable from three sides, I've left about 4-5" empty on each end consequently convincing me to go with the 60" bulbs. This will save me considerable cost up front and down the road in bulb replacement.

My question is what bulb to replace the aquasun with since they don't make a 60" aquasun.

I've got the two VHOs and was planning to order two blue plus, an aquablue and whatever else you recommend!

I was thinking that you'd probably recommend either a midday bulb or a pro color. If you'd change the other 3 t5 bulbs that's fine too as I haven't placed my reefgeek order yet.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12253778#post12253778 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
Do the constellation. Reason being you can set the front lamps slots with lower PAR lamps so softies wont melt and high light in the rear for SPS and the anemone

Front
ATI Blue Plus
UVL 75/25
UVL Super Actinic
ATI Aquablue
Blue Plus
Aquasun
Blue Plus

You could set the fixture right on the tank or have it as high as you want. If its going to be more than about 4" above the tank use a second Aquablue instead of the UVL 75/25

Grim,

I may be considering placing it directly on tank. Not entirely sure yet. Hopefully it doesn't make the water too hot since I do not have air conditioning.

Anyway, I do not understand what PAR is exactly, but following your directions how do I set up my timers. The info on the constellation says --- Three switches on fixture for dusk / dawn lighting or for reduced lighting applications. One switch for 3 rows, another for 2 rows, and the last switch for 2 rows. Also, separate power cords for each of the switches.

Right now on my tank I run my actinics one hour before, during, and one hour after white light. Will this be similar or is this a whole new way of lighting?

Thanks
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12253982#post12253982 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by LiveRock27
I have had a change with my lights. I am going to be running a 250w MH w/14K Phoenix bulb. I will be running 4x24w T5s with this setup and wanted to know what bulbs you think would work best to make the corals pop? Thanks.

Front
Blue Plus
Super Actinic
Halide
UVL 75/25
Super actinic

Use a second Blue Plus instead of the 75/25 if you want to make the light a little more blue than the Phoenix runs.
 
If you are running the 60" lamp on the Ice Cap ballast it will have the most PAR followed by 2 36" Aquasun T5's normally driven

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12259667#post12259667 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by lubyone1
Grim,

Would I be better off running a 72" VHO aquasun or would I get more par from the 60" T5 midday? Maybe I'll just break down and run 2 39watt T-5 aquasun bulbs if they give out significantly more PAR than the Midday.

Thoughts?

Midday. Pro Color doesn't have enough PAR



quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally posted by lubyone1
Hey Grim,

Below is what you advised me to do a while back and I've decided to run 4 80watt bulbs instead of 8 39watt bulbs.

Since my tank is viewable from three sides, I've left about 4-5" empty on each end consequently convincing me to go with the 60" bulbs. This will save me considerable cost up front and down the road in bulb replacement.

My question is what bulb to replace the aquasun with since they don't make a 60" aquasun.

I've got the two VHOs and was planning to order two blue plus, an aquablue and whatever else you recommend!

I was thinking that you'd probably recommend either a midday bulb or a pro color. If you'd change the other 3 t5 bulbs that's fine too as I haven't placed my reefgeek order yet.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12260345#post12260345 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by kenyacat
Grim,

I may be considering placing it directly on tank. Not entirely sure yet. Hopefully it doesn't make the water too hot since I do not have air conditioning.

Anyway, I do not understand what PAR is exactly, but following your directions how do I set up my timers. The info on the constellation says --- Three switches on fixture for dusk / dawn lighting or for reduced lighting applications. One switch for 3 rows, another for 2 rows, and the last switch for 2 rows. Also, separate power cords for each of the switches.

Right now on my tank I run my actinics one hour before, during, and one hour after white light. Will this be similar or is this a whole new way of lighting?

Thanks

Mine is right on the tank and the temp hasn't cracked 78 degrees. The heater comes on around 77.3. My house temp only runs around 72 at most right now though.
 
Grim, what about the switches? Should I keep them all on for 10 hours or should some run less or more. Since I will have less PAR in the front and more in the back.

Is there are article out there that will explain PAR to me?
Thanks
 
My tank is 55 x 24 x 24 and I'm currently running two (2) 400 watts Metal Halide bulbs + two (2) 54 watt T5's. The growth of my SPS have been great but for some reason, I can't get the colors I want (not related to nutrient issues). I've been reading a lot about the ATI Power Module T5 lamps and I think I'm ready to try one.

The questions is which one to get. I've been thinking on the following alternatives (with dimming ballasts):

10 x 54 watts
8 x 80 watts
10 x 80 watts

My corals are used to a lot of light so 800 watts wouldn't be a problem in case I decide to go with the biggest one. The fact that the 80 watt lamp is a little bit longer than my tank, shouldn't be a problem either. I just want great growth and color.

I would appreciate your recommendations.
 
This thread is WAY long, but has great info! Thanks again Grim.
I have a 180(6x2x2) and use the 72in Aquactinic fixture with 14 39 watt bulbs. Is a "bluer" light setup make the corals look better and grow faster and do you sacrifice par to get it? I would like a bluer look(20K). Which bulbs would give me this look and still have par?
 
Would a tek 4x54w fixture cover a 48x24x16 tank? I'm only wanting to keep some lower light LPS like my branching hammers, candy canes, some ricordeas and Zoas.

I'm looking for a good fixture that is not too expensive and semi- energy efficient.
 
Got a ?. My current Aquactinics 250 watt MH/T5 combo worked great on my 55 sps tank. Now that I moved it into a 120 48x24x24 it seems to have a lot of dead spots. It seems like a good time now to go all T5. My question is would I be able to get away with the 48" 7 bulb Constellation or do I need to go with the 8 bulb Power Module to keep my sps and clams.

Thanks
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12261351#post12261351 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by kenyacat
Grim, what about the switches? Should I keep them all on for 10 hours or should some run less or more. Since I will have less PAR in the front and more in the back.

Is there are article out there that will explain PAR to me?
Thanks

Stagger the timing how ever you want. 1,4 and 7 are one one switch and control a fan, 2 and 6 are one another and 3&5 on another controling the 2nd fan. Turn on 3&5, 1,4,7 then 2&6.

As far as PAR do a google search.
 
10x54 would be fine. you get a lot better selection of lamps AND if you are in a 110 volt country the 80 watt units aren't available anyway.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12261463#post12261463 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Fatboy
My tank is 55 x 24 x 24 and I'm currently running two (2) 400 watts Metal Halide bulbs + two (2) 54 watt T5's. The growth of my SPS have been great but for some reason, I can't get the colors I want (not related to nutrient issues). I've been reading a lot about the ATI Power Module T5 lamps and I think I'm ready to try one.

The questions is which one to get. I've been thinking on the following alternatives (with dimming ballasts):

10 x 54 watts
8 x 80 watts
10 x 80 watts

My corals are used to a lot of light so 800 watts wouldn't be a problem in case I decide to go with the biggest one. The fact that the 80 watt lamp is a little bit longer than my tank, shouldn't be a problem either. I just want great growth and color.

I would appreciate your recommendations.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12262197#post12262197 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by TracyZeuner
This thread is WAY long, but has great info! Thanks again Grim.
I have a 180(6x2x2) and use the 72in Aquactinic fixture with 14 39 watt bulbs. Is a "bluer" light setup make the corals look better and grow faster and do you sacrifice par to get it? I would like a bluer look(20K). Which bulbs would give me this look and still have par?

I would try
Front
ATI Blue Plus
ATI Aquablue
ATI Blue Plus
Blue Plus
ATI Blue Plus
UVL Aquasun
Blue Plus

It wont be quite as blue as 20K but the PAR will be pretty good. The Blue Plus doesnt have that much less output than the sun and Daylight lamps and the Aquablue has nearly as much as some and more than others.
 
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