The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
I am not a fan of the Fiji Purple myself. The actinic should mellow the look a lot.
The T5 Q&a Thread
- Thread starter JohnL
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I am not a fan of the Fiji Purple myself. The actinic should mellow the look a lot.
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
Front
ATI Aquablue
ATI Blue Plus
UVL Aquasun
ATI Blue Plus
ATI Aquablue
You could externally mount an Ice Cap ballast to run the 3 lamp circuit.
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
I would do a 12 x39 watt Ice Cap vho T5 setup with 6 rows of 2 36" lamps.
Front
ATI Blue Plus
UVL Aquasun
ATI Blue Plus
UVL Aquasun
ATI Blue Plus
ATI Aquablue
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
Not really any major improvements I can see. You might want to look at maybe doing 2 rows of Aquasuns rather than 1 Aquasun and 1 Midday or visa versa. If you want a more blue look you could replace one or the other with an Aquablue.
lukinrats
Premium Member
Hey Grim... sorry for being MIA... I been working a good bit lately, and have not all the time I thought I would for using the Par meter... I did change out the rest of the bulbs that I wanted to try... I am pretty sure that I have the look that I want now, except maybe for changin out the Ushio 10000k for something else... I now have this configuration
Front:
B+
Sup Act.
B+
Ati P.Color
Ushio 10000k
A.Science Duo
B+
B+
Back:
I broke out the Par meter, and with this configuration, I am getting around 260-280 @ the sandbed... The Par is a good bit higher in the upper parts of the tank as well... I have decided to go with 6 bulbs for about 11-12 hours per day, and the other 2 (namely the Sunlight, and A.S. Duo) coming on from 5pm - 10pm... I am going to try this, and see how the corals respond... Hopefully they will get a little less light, and not be so likely to bleach
I also rescaped the tank over the weekend... Check it out here!!! , and see what you think
I am going to be home will my little girl tomorrow, and I should be able to play around some, in between her nap and all... Hopefully I can do some different things with the Par and Lux meters
Later,
Nathan
Front:
B+
Sup Act.
B+
Ati P.Color
Ushio 10000k
A.Science Duo
B+
B+
Back:
I broke out the Par meter, and with this configuration, I am getting around 260-280 @ the sandbed... The Par is a good bit higher in the upper parts of the tank as well... I have decided to go with 6 bulbs for about 11-12 hours per day, and the other 2 (namely the Sunlight, and A.S. Duo) coming on from 5pm - 10pm... I am going to try this, and see how the corals respond... Hopefully they will get a little less light, and not be so likely to bleach
I also rescaped the tank over the weekend... Check it out here!!! , and see what you think
I am going to be home will my little girl tomorrow, and I should be able to play around some, in between her nap and all... Hopefully I can do some different things with the Par and Lux meters
Later,
Nathan
Last edited:
Twisted
Premium Member
Hey Grim,
Funny I have been running my Tek light 6X54w T5HO fixture for almost 2 years now.....and you were getting the same post then as you are now.
I have a question for you though.....from what I understand T5HO bulds lifs span is 12 to 18 months? Well mine hit two years last Febuary and I am just now starting to lose colors in my SPS. I would say that's pretty impressive.
Wasn't intentional, I just got side tracked.
Anyways, I was looking to replace my bulbs and most likely going to order from Reefgeek again, but curious if anything has changed lighting wise.
My original set up was..
True actinic
Super Actinic
10k
12k
Super actinic
True Actinic.
Should I stick with this set up. It did well for coloration, but left a bit to be desired in the growth.
Whats the deal with the Fiji purples, you said you didn't care for them, but what is their purpose color?
and in a six bulb set up will one fiji allow me to add an extra 10k or 13k for better growth?
Funny I have been running my Tek light 6X54w T5HO fixture for almost 2 years now.....and you were getting the same post then as you are now.
I have a question for you though.....from what I understand T5HO bulds lifs span is 12 to 18 months? Well mine hit two years last Febuary and I am just now starting to lose colors in my SPS. I would say that's pretty impressive.
Wasn't intentional, I just got side tracked.
Anyways, I was looking to replace my bulbs and most likely going to order from Reefgeek again, but curious if anything has changed lighting wise.
My original set up was..
True actinic
Super Actinic
10k
12k
Super actinic
True Actinic.
Should I stick with this set up. It did well for coloration, but left a bit to be desired in the growth.
Whats the deal with the Fiji purples, you said you didn't care for them, but what is their purpose color?
and in a six bulb set up will one fiji allow me to add an extra 10k or 13k for better growth?
Last edited:
Gooli
New member
Hey Grim..here's a good question 
im gonna turn my fuge into a frag tank \ fuge.
i am going to run a 4x24 tek light over this 24x24x24 tank. there will be an eggcrate shelf and underneath eat a ball of cheato and LR\LS.
what bulb config would u recommend to get good coloration\growth for the frags and keeping that cheato alive?
im gonna turn my fuge into a frag tank \ fuge.
i am going to run a 4x24 tek light over this 24x24x24 tank. there will be an eggcrate shelf and underneath eat a ball of cheato and LR\LS.
what bulb config would u recommend to get good coloration\growth for the frags and keeping that cheato alive?
I have a 450 gallon reef that is currently lit with 3 lumen max 3's on galaxy ballasts. I'm running DE 250W Phoenix 14K's on it. The tank is 10ft X 2ft X 3ft. The top-down view is kinda like this:
The lighting is okay with strategic placement of corals, but my acros are not happy if I place them any lower than about 6". I'm also looking for more color than the Phoenix can deliver (just makes everything look blue). I want to add some T5's, but would like to keep the current fixtures that I have. There is no canopy, and the lights are hung from the ceiling, so aesthetics is important, too.
I'm thinking of placing 39W T5s running lengthwise in front of the lumen maxes and using the ReefGeek VHO kit. Was thinking maybe 3 rows of 3 (3 in front of each LM).
My question is would this work and what color combination should I get to bring back the colors that my Phoenix washes out?
The end result would look something like this:
Here is what the tank currently looks like. I was playing with VHO's when I took this pic, trying to find a good color, so please ignore them. I like how the one on the right looks (UVL Actinic White). It really brings out the reds and pinks.
The lighting is okay with strategic placement of corals, but my acros are not happy if I place them any lower than about 6". I'm also looking for more color than the Phoenix can deliver (just makes everything look blue). I want to add some T5's, but would like to keep the current fixtures that I have. There is no canopy, and the lights are hung from the ceiling, so aesthetics is important, too.
I'm thinking of placing 39W T5s running lengthwise in front of the lumen maxes and using the ReefGeek VHO kit. Was thinking maybe 3 rows of 3 (3 in front of each LM).
My question is would this work and what color combination should I get to bring back the colors that my Phoenix washes out?
The end result would look something like this:
Here is what the tank currently looks like. I was playing with VHO's when I took this pic, trying to find a good color, so please ignore them. I like how the one on the right looks (UVL Actinic White). It really brings out the reds and pinks.
Jon
Got CaCO3...
Grim,
I’m building DIY setup composed of (2) 6x54w sections placed side-by-side to cover an 8’ wide tank. Question is, where the two sections meet in the middle would you expect to see a noticeable dark area due to the gap in reflectors and endcaps? Suggestions? Thanks,
Jon………..
I’m building DIY setup composed of (2) 6x54w sections placed side-by-side to cover an 8’ wide tank. Question is, where the two sections meet in the middle would you expect to see a noticeable dark area due to the gap in reflectors and endcaps? Suggestions? Thanks,
Jon………..
I've been researching an upgrade to T5 lighting and was wondering which would provide more intense lighting (more PAR): 10X39W (390 total watts) or 6X80W (480 total watts)? Those are kinda arbitrary numbers, but I picked them because they both add up to 30 linear feet, but the wattage is quite different.
Then what if I ran them on IceCap ballasts? I've read that the icecap will drive the 39W bulb to about 60W (~50% increase), but only drive the 80W bulb to about 100W (~25% increase). If that's correct, now the 39W bulbs are using about 600W and the 80W bulbs are also using about 600W. So which one wins in this case?
Then what if I ran them on IceCap ballasts? I've read that the icecap will drive the 39W bulb to about 60W (~50% increase), but only drive the 80W bulb to about 100W (~25% increase). If that's correct, now the 39W bulbs are using about 600W and the 80W bulbs are also using about 600W. So which one wins in this case?
I have a Current Sundial 30" 4 x24w T5 fixture 3" above my 20 long BB SPS tank I just swapped out all the stock bulbs for all ATI lamps. The reflectors are not the best but better than nothing..... They kinda look like a stamped sheet VVVV
Front:
Aquablue special
Blue plus
Aquablue special
Aquablue special
Back
Is this too much 12,000k for my sps tank (I don't want to bleach anything)
Should Swap out one of my Aquablue special's for a stock 460nm lamp (to run dusk & dawn with the other Blue plus)
Thanks
Front:
Aquablue special
Blue plus
Aquablue special
Aquablue special
Back
Is this too much 12,000k for my sps tank (I don't want to bleach anything)
Should Swap out one of my Aquablue special's for a stock 460nm lamp (to run dusk & dawn with the other Blue plus)
Thanks
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
A couple things about using the 80 watt lamps. They aren't as intense as the overdriven shorter lamps and the 60" reflectors stink. If you got 2 36" Ice Cap or Aquactinics reflectors for each lamp it would probably be OK. Ypu just have to overlamp the reflectors in the middle to get the length you need and drill through the overlaping reflector so you can mount a 3rd lamp clip in the middle to hold them together. There also isn't as good a selection of lamps for the 80 watt systems.
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
Still not impressed with the fiji purples.
Front
Blue Plus (or Giesemann Actinic Plus, same type of lamp)
UVL Super Actinic
UVL Aquasun
ATI Blue Plus
ATI Aquablue
ATI Blue Plus
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13093001#post13093001 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Gooli
Hey Grim..here's a good question
im gonna turn my fuge into a frag tank \ fuge.
i am going to run a 4x24 tek light over this 24x24x24 tank. there will be an eggcrate shelf and underneath eat a ball of cheato and LR\LS.
what bulb config would u recommend to get good coloration\growth for the frags and keeping that cheato alive?
Blue Plus
Aquasun
GE Daylight
Blue Plus
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
Just like you have them listed
The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13093666#post13093666 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by centipede
I have a 450 gallon reef that is currently lit with 3 lumen max 3's on galaxy ballasts. I'm running DE 250W Phoenix 14K's on it. The tank is 10ft X 2ft X 3ft. The top-down view is kinda like this:
The lighting is okay with strategic placement of corals, but my acros are not happy if I place them any lower than about 6". I'm also looking for more color than the Phoenix can deliver (just makes everything look blue). I want to add some T5's, but would like to keep the current fixtures that I have. There is no canopy, and the lights are hung from the ceiling, so aesthetics is important, too.
I'm thinking of placing 39W T5s running lengthwise in front of the lumen maxes and using the ReefGeek VHO kit. Was thinking maybe 3 rows of 3 (3 in front of each LM).
My question is would this work and what color combination should I get to bring back the colors that my Phoenix washes out?
The end result would look something like this:
Here is what the tank currently looks like. I was playing with VHO's when I took this pic, trying to find a good color, so please ignore them. I like how the one on the right looks (UVL Actinic White). It really brings out the reds and pinks.
front
UVL Super Actinic
UVL 75/25
UVL Aquasun
I'd maybe think about at some point getting 6 rows of T5's and going to 10K halides like 5 hours a day and run the fluorescents the rest of the time.
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