The T5 Q&a Thread

[robojet]

Grim, Thanks for the response... The Display tank has 6 bulbs..., you've identified 4. Would you mind giving your opinion on a 6 bulb configuration.

THANKS!!!

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13103364#post13103364 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
Almost all the stuff we deal with are High Output HO. You will see NO on occasion but they are not that common. Overdriven lamps are called VHO by one company but they are just a HO T5 on a Ice Cap ballast.

Forget about watts, it's a crappy guideline at best.

Smallest reflector I know have needs the lamps spaced 2" apart (Aquactinics reflectors) You can squeeze them a bit to make them fit but not too much.

For the display

Front
ATI Blue Plus or Giesemann Actinic Plus
UVK Super Actinic
UVL Aquasun
ATI Aquablue

Frag tank

Front
ATI Blue Plus
UVL Aquasun
GE 6500K Daylight
ATI Blue Plus

 

[pjr300]

Originally posted by The Grim Reefer
The Aquactinic should draw around 4 amps each max. Try turning them on one at a time, one switch at a time. If you hit on a circuit that is causing the problem reinstall the lamps for that citcuit to male sure an arcing problem isn't the issue.

Hi Grim! Hope you can help me understand something about T5 energy consumption and heat management.

I am not trying to start a debate, just want to learn more about T5 potential.

I have a 2x250 SE setup (magnetic ballast) in a canopy on a 72" tank. Bulbs are 5" off the water. I have removed the cover of my canopy to try and reduce heat. However, unless the AC is on, heat remains an issue.

I am considering a move to 2x175W with electronic ballasts. If I use the right ballast and bulb combo, the PAR is equal to my current combo. I think that would reduce heat, but I want to investigate T5 as a potential solution as well.

So... The Aquactinics Constellation draws about 4 amps. Given its a 7x54HO fixture, I'd compare its output to a 2x250 MH setup.

Assume that decent electronic ballasts are used (Ice Cap, ARO), and a bulb that doesn't need supplements to look good (Hamilton 14k, Phoenix 14k), the comparable 48" MH setup would use about 4.5 amps. I just don't see big energy savings. What am I missing?

On the heat side, 7x54HO is putting out about 475 watts, close to the 500W total from the sample MH setup. Given the similar wattage and similar electric draw, is the T5 really any cooler? I understand that T5 bulbs must be kept cool or performance suffers... that tells me that they give off plenty of heat, just like MH.

Appreciate your insight... Thanks!

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13103796#post13103796 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by robojet
Grim, Thanks for the response... The Display tank has 6 bulbs..., you've identified 4. Would you mind giving your opinion on a 6 bulb configuration.

THANKS!!!

Front
ATI Blue Plus or Giesemann Actinic Plus
UVK Super Actinic
UVL Aquasun
ATI Blue Plus
GE 6500K daylight
ATI Blue Plus

Sorry bout that

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13104541#post13104541 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by pjr300
Hi Grim! Hope you can help me understand something about T5 energy consumption and heat management.

I am not trying to start a debate, just want to learn more about T5 potential.

I have a 2x250 SE setup (magnetic ballast) in a canopy on a 72" tank. Bulbs are 5" off the water. I have removed the cover of my canopy to try and reduce heat. However, unless the AC is on, heat remains an issue.

I am considering a move to 2x175W with electronic ballasts. If I use the right ballast and bulb combo, the PAR is equal to my current combo. I think that would reduce heat, but I want to investigate T5 as a potential solution as well.

So... The Aquactinics Constellation draws about 4 amps. Given its a 7x54HO fixture, I'd compare its output to a 2x250 MH setup.

Assume that decent electronic ballasts are used (Ice Cap, ARO), and a bulb that doesn't need supplements to look good (Hamilton 14k, Phoenix 14k), the comparable 48" MH setup would use about 4.5 amps. I just don't see big energy savings. What am I missing?

On the heat side, 7x54HO is putting out about 475 watts, close to the 500W total from the sample MH setup. Given the similar wattage and similar electric draw, is the T5 really any cooler? I understand that T5 bulbs must be kept cool or performance suffers... that tells me that they give off plenty of heat, just like MH.

Appreciate your insight... Thanks!

4 amp draw is the max. Up and running with everything at temp depending on lamps a 2x54 watt T5 system draws from 110 to 120 watts of power so the 7 lamp system it's probably around 380~ 425 including fans. Even running E ballasts 2 250 halides are going to drawing the 240's each and that doesn't include fans or supplimentals.

As far as heat think of the halide like a blow dryer hanging 5" over the tank vs. 7 curling irons hanging 2" over the water. T5's dissipate heat over a much larger surface so it is easier for the air to circulate the heat up and away from the water.

Another factor is that halides tend to emitt a lot more UV spectrum light from the arc tube than fluorescents. Radiated UV light causes objects it strikes, water, rocks, glass etc. to warm up. With fluorescent lamps the majority of UV light is absorbed by the phosphores inside the tube.

My COnstellation fixture sits right on the tank frame and my water temp wont break 80 on a hot day although I do keep the AC at 74 the room temp will hit the high 70's on hot days. Try that with Halides.

 

[pinkcoral]

Thank you so much for taking time to answer my question. We are all lucky to have you answer all of these questions. I'm not sure how you do it but I am glad that you do and that you have so much knowledge about the T5's and you are willing to help us all. I will make sure I post some pictures of my tank once I get up and running. Once again thank you, I really appreciate it.

 

[kidninja]

hi grim
im thinking about getting these http://www.thatpetplace.com/pet/group/10922/product.web but my tank is a 20" not 24" would it be fine if i just rest it on top of my tank or is that too close to the water?
here is what my tank looks like with my pc lights resting on a piece of glass

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v21/lil_azn_boi/IMG_2744.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v21/lil_azn_boi/Photo48-1.jpg

what would you suggest or is that good

 

[The Grim Reefer]

As long as the T5 unit has a splash shield it can sit right on the tank

 

[kidninja]

great thanks, also, where can i get replacement blubs + how much do the usually cost? + whats a good brand to buy for 24w bulbs

 

[The Grim Reefer]

Reefgeek tends to have the best price and selection. Prices in the high teens for the shorter T5's. Stick with ATI, Giesemann, UV Lighting, GE Daylights for lamps

 

[pjr300]

<Originally posted by The Grim Reefer
4 amp draw is the max. .....

My Constellation fixture sits right on the tank frame and my water temp wont break 80 on a hot day although I do keep the AC at 74 the room temp will hit the high 70's on hot days. Try that with Halides.

Thanks... that helps. I keep the AC at 78 or 79, and my tank gets to about 81 during peak hours. If the AC was off, we'd see 84 quickly.

Tanks with a canopy have terrible space contraints. Most of the T5 systems are 12" to 15" wide. On an 18" wide tank (72"x24"x18"), it really limits my access. Do you have any thoughts on ths point?

 

[robojet]

Grim... Your the greatest... agree with pinkcoral! It's exceptionally nice that you take the time to respond to all of our questions!

 

[ozzy31]

hey grim

received my constelation today
bulbs
3 blue plus
uvl 75/25
aquablue
uvl aquasun
uvl super actinic
do i install in this order?

i ran the fixture in the canopy n it got really hot had to turn the fans that i used for the metal halieds i used. is this norm in a canopy? its allot cooler now n 2" above my tank.

thanks

 

[ozzy31]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13104906#post13104906 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by robojet
Grim... Your the greatest... agree with pinkcoral! It's exceptionally nice that you take the time to respond to all of our questions!

hell yea i agree and grim should allso be on the payroll cant even emagin how many lamps n fixtures have been purchesd from his advice awsom!!!!!!!

 

[fish590a]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13103224#post13103224 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
Sanjay did a MH/T5 comparison but the results have not been released yet. The word is he found the 4x39 watt Tek light to be equal to a good 175 watt halide system. Without knowing the details it is impossible to know how that translates into real world situation.

If You use a fan to cool the Tek fixture it's good for a 20% increase in output. The 4 fan Azoo clamp on array would work but you don't want it blowing directly on the lamps, you want it blowing on the edge of the fixture from behind so the air moves around the fixture cooling the lamps and ballasts.

Next issue is lamp color. The Blue T5 lamps have really good PAR where blue halides have lower PAR. Soooo..... Is the Tek going to have as much PAR as the radium setup? Dunno. Is it gong to have enough PAR to raise what you want in that tank? Yes,

Front
ATI Blue Plus
ATI Blue Plus
UVL Aquasun
UVL Super Actinic
ATI Blue Plus
UVL Aquasun
ATI Blue Plus
ATI Blue Plus

thank you for the respond, I have a couple more questions if you don't mind.
1. Would the 8 bulb config. cover a 30" depth tank?
2. I read good things about red spectrum HO for coloration, what's your opinion on them?

 

[jma1978]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13098266#post13098266 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
The shorter lamps are quite a bit brighter when verdriven. Normally driven the 80 watters are a little brighter.

Grim, thanks for the reply. So if I have good active cooling and am overdriving my 39W bulbs, am I shortening the lifespan of the bulb? I think I read before that you said they last the same amount of time, as long as they are properly cooled...

 

[Zestay]

grim if i were to not use a splash shield how far should i keep my lights above the water?

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13104867#post13104867 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by pjr300
Thanks... that helps. I keep the AC at 78 or 79, and my tank gets to about 81 during peak hours. If the AC was off, we'd see 84 quickly.

Tanks with a canopy have terrible space contraints. Most of the T5 systems are 12" to 15" wide. On an 18" wide tank (72"x24"x18"), it really limits my access. Do you have any thoughts on ths point?

I just lift mine off the tank and set it on the back frame while I am digging in the tank

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13105133#post13105133 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ozzy31
hey grim

received my constelation today
bulbs
3 blue plus
uvl 75/25
aquablue
uvl aquasun
uvl super actinic
do i install in this order?

i ran the fixture in the canopy n it got really hot had to turn the fans that i used for the metal halieds i used. is this norm in a canopy? its allot cooler now n 2" above my tank.

thanks

Yeah, a canopy will cause the fixture to run hotter. Make sure you have at least a couple inches between the top of the fixture and the canoipy top do the fans can pull the hot air out of the canopy.

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13105201#post13105201 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by fish590a
thank you for the respond, I have a couple more questions if you don't mind.
1. Would the 8 bulb config. cover a 30" depth tank?
2. I read good things about red spectrum HO for coloration, what's your opinion on them?

30" front to back, yes but I would rather have 10. On a 30 inch tall it depends on the depth. 18" depth 6 lamps will do. Anything over 22" it's time to consider 8 and over 28" 10.

Having a red spectrum lamp in the mix does wonders from giving accurate color representation of your corals. I have a Pink Birdsnest (I haven't killed it yet ) that looks slate blue under the blue and actinic lights and once I add the Aquasun and UVL 75/25 it is a very bright pink.

 

[The Grim Reefer]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13105263#post13105263 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jma1978
Grim, thanks for the reply. So if I have good active cooling and am overdriving my 39W bulbs, am I shortening the lifespan of the bulb? I think I read before that you said they last the same amount of time, as long as they are properly cooled...

I SUSPECT they will last the same amount of time. My overdriven 80 watt system certainly held up very good but the 90 watt lamps aren't driven as hard so it is possible the shorter blue lamps will start losing color sooner than normal when overdriven. If it really made a noticable difference I think we would be hearing ftrom people with overdriven systems and that has not been the case.