The T5 Q&a Thread

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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13170388#post13170388 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by hpglow
Looking at ballasts is there nothing that compares to an icecap ballast?

I was looking at the fulham workhorse ballasts and looking at overdiving using their vho wiring diagram. What are your thoughts on this?

The project I am working on is for a 72" 125gal tank that has been up for over a year. Right now I am planning for there to be 10 lamps, 2 columns of 5 36" lamps. What lamp setup would you reccomend to accheave a color simular to 14k pheonix 250w mh lamps?

I am not a fan of Workhorse ballasts but they will work. Howeven there is no way in hell I would risk overdriving with them. They have no end of life protection circuit so if you have a problem like a bad lamp or arcing somewhere the ballast wont shut down.

Front
Blue Plus
Aquablue
Aquasun
Aquablue
Blue Plus

Should be 14K or so
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13170698#post13170698 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Zestay
hey grim!
i already have 4x54 watt t5ho
and might grab another 4 for my 90 gallon tank
the bulbs i already have are
UVL super actinic
UVL super actinic
Geisiemen aquablue
geisiemen blue+

if i were to get another kit would you say go with 2x VHO t5 ( icecap ) or try and squeeze 4 more regular t5hos ? money is an issue can only grab one of the 2 options

and which bulbs would you reccomend? im thinking about a pro color.

also
do you feel theres a diffrence between ATI bulbs and geisiemen bulbs? of the same caliber?

IME the ATI have been a little better than the Giesemanns but I am doing a test to make sure.

Grab the 2 lamp VHO T5 but drop the extra 20 bux for a 660 ballast instead of the 430 so you have the option of adding more lamps later if you need them

For your two new lamps keep them towards the center and use a UVL Aquasun and ATI or Giesemann Aquablue/ For your additional 2 lamps get the Aquasun and another Blue Plus/Actinic Plus
 
Can anyone explain how to get a good connection for the power cord on an Accustart ballast?

All 6 of the wires (solid core) on the lamp side just get pushed in & the connection is solid.

With the power cord I push it in & it stays, but it doesn't seem like a very solid connection.

The box where the connections are looks a little like this

G- o []
N- o []
L- o []

The circles are open (I'm assuming for the wires to be pushed into) & the squares are little pegs that can be pulled out. I tried google for a diagram but can't find anything that helps me.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13171644#post13171644 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
I am not a fan of Workhorse ballasts but they will work. Howeven there is no way in hell I would risk overdriving with them. They have no end of life protection circuit so if you have a problem like a bad lamp or arcing somewhere the ballast wont shut down.

Front
Blue Plus
Aquablue
Aquasun
Aquablue
Blue Plus

Should be 14K or so

When you say Aquablue are you refering to the UV 14k Aquablues or the ATI 12k Aquablue Specials?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13171921#post13171921 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Everyones Hero
Can anyone explain how to get a good connection for the power cord on an Accustart ballast?

All 6 of the wires (solid core) on the lamp side just get pushed in & the connection is solid.

With the power cord I push it in & it stays, but it doesn't seem like a very solid connection.

The box where the connections are looks a little like this

G- o []
N- o []
L- o []

The circles are open (I'm assuming for the wires to be pushed into) & the squares are little pegs that can be pulled out. I tried google for a diagram but can't find anything that helps me.

Not sure on your particular ballast but on some you push the pegs in to realease the wires.

On your power wires you can twist the individual wires so they are more stiff and usually get them into the hole pretty good. If that doesn't work hit them with solder, that will make them stiff enough to go in. You cound also use a needle to push the wire in better
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13172022#post13172022 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by hpglow
When you say Aquablue are you refering to the UV 14k Aquablues or the ATI 12k Aquablue Specials?

The ATI
 
Hi all

I am a noob on T5's. I have two FOWLR--I don't want to deal with SPS or other corals, the tanks are for FO, but I need enough lighting for the live rock, and some sponges. Right now, I am only running NO lights, thinking the sponge need very little light, and to avoid algae issues.

I have noticed, though, that the live rock is pretty barren--sponges seem ok, but the rock itself is dull and boring.

I have heard that T-5 are good choices for viewing fish, also, would be better lighting for the rock.

Can anyone suggest a T-5 wattage (assume would want a combination 10000K and actinic) to grow the live rock, but not to overwhelm with more light than I need?

One tank is a 75 gal standard with about 30 pounds live rock and thin layer of live sand, Fluval filter, Aqua C Remora skimmer, UV sterilizer, good flow

the other is 125 standard, with 3 " live sand and very little live rock will be adding more for nitrate control and to feed grazer fish), wet dry bio ball (thus the need for more live rock), skimmer in sump.

Thanks for your thoughts
 
Ladyshark- My fish & LR looked really good under my PC light. I actually liked the look of my LR better under the PC light then under my T5s, but that's probably because of my current bulb configuration.

I don't know about sponges, but LR doesn't need much light. I had really good coralline growth with just a 65w PC.
 
well grim the icecap got scratched of the list. going to get a total of 6x54

uvl super actinc
g-men blue plus
uvl aquasun
g-men aquablue
ati blueplus
uvl superactinic

do you think ill be able to grow a clam on the sand of a 90 with this?
 
Thanks Hero--that answers my question on the live rock. Sponges don't appear to need a lot of light at least in my tanks, but I think they did better with more light.

Anyone else have thoughts?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13172423#post13172423 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Zestay
well grim the icecap got scratched of the list. going to get a total of 6x54

uvl super actinc
g-men blue plus
uvl aquasun
g-men aquablue
ati blueplus
uvl superactinic

do you think ill be able to grow a clam on the sand of a 90 with this?

Maybe lower light ones. Stay away from the Maximas and Croceas
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13172686#post13172686 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ladyshark
Thanks Hero--that answers my question on the live rock. Sponges don't appear to need a lot of light at least in my tanks, but I think they did better with more light.

Anyone else have thoughts?

If this is for your 125 2x80 watt T5 system with ATI or Giesemann aquablue lamps would be my choice. Coralline algae needs a bit of light but not too much. You will likely get more varied colors with that moderate amount of light than with high amounts of light which tends to kill off all but the pink.
 
i want to run a nova extreme pro (6x39watt) over a 25in tall tank. will this work? also what bulbs would you run? ive been told to try this combo 2 fiji purple, 1 true acintic, 2 75/25 blue plus, & 1 Pro color red. i would like to be a little on the growth end of the spectrum....
 
Grim..Quick question! I have a Geisemann Infiniti Fixture. It has 4 actinic +T-5's and 1-150 watt HQI 13k with all Geisemann bulbs.

I love the look of the fixture, very stylish and sleek!

My question is...If I were to take out the Hqi Bulb(150 watt) and put in 2 Icecap SLR reflectors to make a total quanity of 6 T-5's would I be gaining or loosing par values. I tend to like a true 20K look.

Thanks
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13174188#post13174188 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Tbone675
i want to run a nova extreme pro (6x39watt) over a 25in tall tank. will this work? also what bulbs would you run? ive been told to try this combo 2 fiji purple, 1 true acintic, 2 75/25 blue plus, & 1 Pro color red. i would like to be a little on the growth end of the spectrum....

A NEP isn't going to give you a whole lot of light in the lower parts of a 25" tall so keep that in mind.

The above mix of lamps would be pathetic for growth.

Try 2 fiji purple, 1 75/25 1 Aquasun 1 ATI Aquablue and 1 Blue Plus.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13174353#post13174353 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by cashman95
Grim..Quick question! I have a Geisemann Infiniti Fixture. It has 4 actinic +T-5's and 1-150 watt HQI 13k with all Geisemann bulbs.

I love the look of the fixture, very stylish and sleek!

My question is...If I were to take out the Hqi Bulb(150 watt) and put in 2 Icecap SLR reflectors to make a total quanity of 6 T-5's would I be gaining or loosing par values. I tend to like a true 20K look.

Thanks

If you are talking about removing a 20K halide for 2 blue plus T5's you would get a nice big gain. Probably would also be a 13K halide too.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13176398#post13176398 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
A NEP isn't going to give you a whole lot of light in the lower parts of a 25" tall so keep that in mind.

The above mix of lamps would be pathetic for growth.

Try 2 fiji purple, 1 75/25 1 Aquasun 1 ATI Aquablue and 1 Blue Plus.

trying not to sound like a total noob but......what are the brands of thoes lights you listed?
 
I am soon going to be setting up a new tank with a 8 bulb T5 fixture.

What do you think of the following.

Giesemann Actinic Plus
KZ Coral Light New Generation 14k
KZ Fuji Purple
Giesemann Actinic Pure
Giesemann Actinic Plus
KZ Coral Light New Generation 14k
KZ Purple Fuji
Giesemann Actinic Pure

I'm aware this is guna be quite blue, but i'm cool with that as long as my SPS don't suffer. (water depth is 21")
 
Would a 8x48 nova extreme replacing the reflectors with aquatinics 2" reflectors be a decent set up?

edit: never mind I guess it's not wide enough :(
 
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