The T5 Q&a Thread

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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14208831#post14208831 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by chris023
Appreciate your input. Thanks so much. As far as fitting 8 bulbs, my canopy has a piece of wood running along the back that supports the sides, as it is an open back. This support piece cuts me off by a few inches at the back of the tank. I also have a split lid top (top opens in two pieces), so I had to run a piece of wood along the front to try to make it more like a single piece lid, taking off another few inches (don't want to mistakenly open one side and rip out the retro-fit). Anyway, I will see was I can do to fit in 8 bulbs. If I manage to get 8 in there, do you have another bulb configuration for the 8? Thanks.

I don't think you need to worry about going with 8 bulbs honestly. Just keep the SPS where the light is most intense. 8 bulbs doesn't increase PAR, it simply gives you a wider area where the maximum PAR is achieved. Does that make sense?

6 bulbs overdriven is plenty on that tank. Just keep the SPS where the light is most intense.

AS for 8 bulbs you could add another Blue Plus and maybe a GE 6500K. Just find what bulbs you like.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14209668#post14209668 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by rtparty
I don't think you need to worry about going with 8 bulbs honestly. Just keep the SPS where the light is most intense. 8 bulbs doesn't increase PAR, it simply gives you a wider area where the maximum PAR is achieved. Does that make sense?

6 bulbs overdriven is plenty on that tank. Just keep the SPS where the light is most intense.

AS for 8 bulbs you could add another Blue Plus and maybe a GE 6500K. Just find what bulbs you like.

I understand, thanks. I can assume that the maximum par would be achieved right smack in the middle, therefore SPS growth on the edges of the light cluster (e.g. back of the tank, sides of the tank), could be achieved if placed higher in the tank (typically where back of the tank SPS would be), but maybe at a slower rate.
 
I only have room for 4 bulbs (5 if I could afford the TX5). Plan on going with all ATI bulbs based on what I've heard. Suggestions on bulb choices and placement? 18" from top to substrate with open brain on sandbed and plans for mostly softies. Would like a crocea but I doubt it would also like an anemone for my True Percula. I've been told by many MH is needed and by others that the right T5's with the right reflectors can do it.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14207386#post14207386 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by drgabe
Thanks- Any links to purchase a splash shield for a retro canopy?
I didn't think you wanted to cover the tank- but wanted to be sure.

Any acrylic should work.
 
Re: ATI Pro Color of Fiji Purple?

Re: ATI Pro Color of Fiji Purple?

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14207473#post14207473 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Challenge
Grim,

I have my hood built and ready to hang, just waiting for my Aquactinic reflectors to arrive today sometime.

I went with Geissman bulbs for 5 of the slots, got a good price.

Current setup is

Actinic Plus
MidDay (6000K)
Aquablue plus
Pure Actinic
Actinic Plus
Aquablue Plus

Need to swap out the Pure Actinic for either a Pro color, Fiji or other in that general range

First, other than the Pure Actinic does the layout look right/good

Second, what should I get. Got to order it in in any case so all options are open.

Here is the hood with all current bulbs fired up.


211305Reduced_DSC_09584-med.jpg


TIA

Fiji Purple or UVL 75/25 either one. For the rest just wait till you get it over a tank and see what you think
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14207925#post14207925 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by A.T.T.R
hey grimm
i installed my t5 system on the first of the year using icecap ballast driving 3 ft bulbs
one of my UVL t5 daylight lamps is hardly lighting and is a orange color.

did i get a bad bulb or could this be caused by heat?
i have two fans blowing from back to front under the endcaps (endcaps are 5 inches off water) and then i have 6 inch open air space ABOVE the lamps

i put a temp sensor on top of the reflector ( only spot that it stays put) and am getting a temp of 114 degrees
i can TOUCH the bulbs with noproblom right near the endcap and its jsut kinda warm

any ideas?

Does the lamp start out that way or does it light right and then dim out as it gets hot? I am guessing a bad lamp.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14208398#post14208398 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by A.T.T.R
if i touch the par sensor to the center of each bulb i get a reading over 1000 par (1k to 1.3k) so all the otehr bulbs seem ok bu thte one that is bad is only 77 on the par meter.

i guess ill keep checking for par drop in the otehr bulbs to see if the bulbs are starting to go

You want to keep the temp on the metal cap around 115 degrees of possible.
 
I have a quick question for you Grim.

My tank is 72"x32"x30" and SPS dominated with 95% of SPS in the top half of the tank. The water level its just about 27"-28" deep. I order a 10x80w Powermodule and was hoping to get your opinion on how you think it might perform and what bulb combination you might recommend.

I'm replacing 2x 400w MH and am hoping for better coloration (not that its bad right now) and more thorough lighting throughout. Growth is obviously important as well. :D

Thanks in advance for your help and advice.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14207997#post14207997 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by chris023
Grim,
I have a 6 bulb retro fit in my 150 gallon (60x24x24) mixed tank. I would like to have as much SPS as I like. I currently have ~12 small to medium SPS frags and various LPS, etc. I am using 48" bulbs centered (leaving about 6" on either side) with SLR reflectors. Current bulbs are alternating Current 10K and Current 460NM (3 of each). I am running on 2 Icecap 660s with the 460s on 1 and the 10Ks on the other (460s are on dusk/dawn).

Couple of questions:

1) Do you think the 6 bulbs are enough to get good growth? The area of the tank with SPS is well covered with bulbs. I could possible squeeze in one more if i removed my moonlights (although I would rather not).

2) Should I be using the 60" bulbs vs. the 48"? I heard that the 60" bulbs don't burn enough on the edges of the bulb, 48" burns better across the entire bulb.

3) I see a fairly standard bulb configuration that you advise, however with my alternating bulb wiring, what would you recommend? Obviously I can re-wire to a 4 bulb and 2 bulb config or whatever (although, rather not if possible).

4) What do you know about the Current bulbs and Icecap ballasts? I have been using the ballasts for a year now and just recently switched bulbs to Current (as I was told "they make the best bulbs"), and all has been fine (even started getting better color and growth). Just very recently I went to replace one of my 460NMs with a 10K (thought I wasn't getting enough growing light) and the new Current bulbs kept burning out. I then heard that Current will not guarantee their bulbs when running them on Icecap ballasts due to the ballasts over-driving the bulbs. Did Current recently change the way they make bulbs? Will the ATI, UVL, Giesemann bulbs work fine with Icecaps? I would think so as all are sold by ReefGeek.

Sorry for such a long group of questions.
Thanks for your advice.

Get good lamps, you will be amazed at the difference.

Try 3 ATI Blue Plus, 2 UVL 75/25, 1 GE 6500K Daylight
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14208911#post14208911 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jck9
is 9-10" off of the water too high to mount a 5 bulb t5 retro? i keep lps sme shrooms and zoas and may put some lower light sps like monti caps or something in the top 6-7 "

Be fine for those corals
 
I've got a Wh5 ballast hooked to 4x24 and a nova ballast i took out of a nova extreme fixture thats doing 2x24. This is over a 36" tank. The WH5 will do up to 3x39w bulbs. The 2x24 I have are Blue+'s. I'm going to order the 39w bulbs to replace the 24's, get 20w more light since I can accomodate the bulbs and they don't cost any more. What bulbs should I get? Right now I think my setup is like this:

Front
Blue+
6500k
Aquasun (12k I think)
10k current
Aquablue
Blue+

I think the light's ok but want more of a blue/white crisp look. Would 3 Aqua Blue's do the trick or is there another combo out there that's more suggested?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14210230#post14210230 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by chris023
I understand, thanks. I can assume that the maximum par would be achieved right smack in the middle, therefore SPS growth on the edges of the light cluster (e.g. back of the tank, sides of the tank), could be achieved if placed higher in the tank (typically where back of the tank SPS would be), but maybe at a slower rate.


Usually keeping your lights clustered together centers works great. SPS tend to be on the rocks so those out from under the lights are the rear will be up on the rocks were they still get great intensity. It also leaves the hot spot on the front face of the rocks so the stuff all the way down the rocks gets good light.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14210467#post14210467 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by spamn
I only have room for 4 bulbs (5 if I could afford the TX5). Plan on going with all ATI bulbs based on what I've heard. Suggestions on bulb choices and placement? 18" from top to substrate with open brain on sandbed and plans for mostly softies. Would like a crocea but I doubt it would also like an anemone for my True Percula. I've been told by many MH is needed and by others that the right T5's with the right reflectors can do it.

TX 5 will let you keep anything.

Front
ATI Blue Plus
UVL 75/25
GE 6500K Daylight
ATI Blue Plus
ATI Aquablue

You may end up swapping positions of the 75/25 and the blue plus in slot 4, 2 and 4 are the dusk/dawn pair
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14211006#post14211006 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by thirschmann
I have a quick question for you Grim.

My tank is 72"x32"x30" and SPS dominated with 95% of SPS in the top half of the tank. The water level its just about 27"-28" deep. I order a 10x80w Powermodule and was hoping to get your opinion on how you think it might perform and what bulb combination you might recommend.

I'm replacing 2x 400w MH and am hoping for better coloration (not that its bad right now) and more thorough lighting throughout. Growth is obviously important as well. :D

Thanks in advance for your help and advice.

The PM Should do good.

Front'
ATI Blue Plus
ATI Aquablue
ATI Pro Color
ATI Blue Plus
GE 6500K Daylight
ATI Aquablue
ATI Blue Plus
ATI Pro Color
GE 6500K Daylight
ATI Blue Plus
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14211230#post14211230 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dzeadow
I've got a Wh5 ballast hooked to 4x24 and a nova ballast i took out of a nova extreme fixture thats doing 2x24. This is over a 36" tank. The WH5 will do up to 3x39w bulbs. The 2x24 I have are Blue+'s. I'm going to order the 39w bulbs to replace the 24's, get 20w more light since I can accomodate the bulbs and they don't cost any more. What bulbs should I get? Right now I think my setup is like this:

Front
Blue+
6500k
Aquasun (12k I think)
10k current
Aquablue
Blue+

I think the light's ok but want more of a blue/white crisp look. Would 3 Aqua Blue's do the trick or is there another combo out there that's more suggested?

I'd do all 3 Blue Plus, they have great PAR and set up the color for the tank. Run those with an Aquablue, Aquasun and 6500K.
 
thanks Grim, I'll only have 5 bulbs when its all said and done though, so do you think it'll look ok like this:

Blue+ 24w
AquaBlue 39w
AquaBlue 39w
AquaBlue 39w
Blue+ 24w

?
 
Wow great thread

Grim if i may ask:

I have a 48"x20"x12" 55Gal and a 4 Bulb (not Ice Cap) setup that currently has

Odyssea Blue Actinic 54W
Odyssea 12,000k Daylight 54W
Odyssea 12,000k Daylight 54W
Odyssea Blue Actinic 54W

The bulbs are due a change soon (10 months old) and i've got some shrooms, Xenia, polyps, Hammer coral that don't seem to do anything.

Could you suggest a more growth orientated set of bulbs, (and fitting order) i'd like to get a BTA for my ClownFish as i read this is one of the only ones that will grow without MH.

Thank you kindly
 
it starts out dim and stays dim
i dont see the endcaps ever getting bellow 140 degrees
atleast without loading the thing with somany fans that i blow the canopy off :P
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14211255#post14211255 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
Usually keeping your lights clustered together centers works great. SPS tend to be on the rocks so those out from under the lights are the rear will be up on the rocks were they still get great intensity. It also leaves the hot spot on the front face of the rocks so the stuff all the way down the rocks gets good light.

I actually do have about 4" of room near the back of the tank and was toying with the idea of adding a 7th bulb to the cluster to help out those SPS on the back wall.
What would you recommend for bulbs and ballast grouping (I have 2 Icecap 660s). Thanks in advance.
 
hey grim, is a powermodule 36" with 6 39w bulbs enough for a 58g oceanic (L36xH20xW18) SPS only tank?

Thanks
 
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