The T5 Q&a Thread

Status
Not open for further replies.
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14555134#post14555134 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by glenn907s
I was wanting to know how close would a 48" 54w over powered t5 set up to a 60" 80w t5 standard ballast set up would be. I have 2 250w 12k reeflux se set up now and instead of buying another 250w mh I was thinking of buy a 3 or 4 bulb t5 set up just not sure on over powered 48" or standard 60" ? what bulbs would do you think ? I was thinking ati 1 aqua blue , 2 blue plus and 1 pro color ? Not sure trying to get good growth and good color also. My tank is 62" long and my mh light set up is 59" now.


I would run the 60" myself. Bulbs are limited but you can still get great bulbs. If you do the over driven 48" bulbs you will be replacing them every 8 months. Where as with the 60" you can go about a year. Also with the 48" you will have dark spots on the ends. Not that that is bad but just an FYI.

Either way your bulb combo is pretty good. Maybe switch the ATI Pro Color for a KZ Fiji Purple if you want more PAR.
 
Just for clarification.

The Powermodule's fans should be set at 9v right?

The Sunpower should be set at 7.5v?
 
grim -

I'm looking to upgrade my 4 bulb Current Sundial to a 4 bulb retro-fit fixture from reefgeek with icecap 660 ballast and individual icecap reflectors.

My goal is to be able to grow anything anywhere (or close to it). Is this kit going to get me there? This is on a standard size 55 gallon tank.
 
Hi there,
im toying with the idea of getting rid of my TEK 6 bulb and installing a retro in my canopy. I am converting my tank to an SPS dominated set up and I will need to be able to keep corals toward the bottom of my 90 (48x18x24). Here are my Q's

1. I am debating between the aquactinic reflectors and the icecaps, which would you recommend? I like the 2 inch width of the AAs but it doesnt really matter because I wont be able to fit more than 8 bulbs with either reflector, the tek2's are just too wide and I would lose one bulb.

2. Should I overdrive on IC ballasts? Or I was thinking of using 2 Osrams or a combo of the 2. I guess I am just wondering how necessary over driving is, if possible I would rather not, but if it will help significantly I can deal with it.

3. Cooling - what is the best application of fans? I know this may depend on whether they are OD or not, but in general is it better too blow air over the entire bulb or duct the air too just blow over the end caps?

Thanks for your help, appreciate all your time to help myself and everyone else out.
 
I havent had a chance to test for myself yet but from what I've heard you are still better off with an external reflector for the T5. Also the actinic T5's still don't match the VHO BUT if you are using an Ice Cap ballast you could run one 80 watt Blue Plus T5 with one VHO super actinic.

Can they be over driven with Workhorse 7 ballast?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14555134#post14555134 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by glenn907s
I was wanting to know how close would a 48" 54w over powered t5 set up to a 60" 80w t5 standard ballast set up would be. I have 2 250w 12k reeflux se set up now and instead of buying another 250w mh I was thinking of buy a 3 or 4 bulb t5 set up just not sure on over powered 48" or standard 60" ? what bulbs would do you think ? I was thinking ati 1 aqua blue , 2 blue plus and 1 pro color ? Not sure trying to get good growth and good color also. My tank is 62" long and my mh light set up is 59" now.


Instead of the pro color use a UVL Actinic White or Fiji Purple, way more PAR that way. Other than that as long as you keep the lamps 4 to 6 inches above the tank you should be fine.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14557327#post14557327 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by WuHT
Thanks

I went out and purchased a 28 watt actinic bulb, and plugged it in, but this time with a kill-o-watt meter attached.

It drew 12 watts .. so is my fixture only rated for 12 watts, and my bulb is too high .. or everything is just fine and dandy ?

Thanks again

??? Maybe they are using a very efficient ballast. Dunno, Just let it rid and see what happens, the ballast could be bad.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14559000#post14559000 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by rtparty
Just for clarification.

The Powermodule's fans should be set at 9v right?

The Sunpower should be set at 7.5v?

The Sunpower I have peaks at 7.5v. Dunno about the PM's. Try asking in the reefgeek forum.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14560315#post14560315 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ReefKeeperRob
grim -

I'm looking to upgrade my 4 bulb Current Sundial to a 4 bulb retro-fit fixture from reefgeek with icecap 660 ballast and individual icecap reflectors.

My goal is to be able to grow anything anywhere (or close to it). Is this kit going to get me there? This is on a standard size 55 gallon tank.

Just get the HO Ice Cap T5 system, no need to overdrive on a 55. Just run fans to cool the endcaps and mount the lamps 4 to 6 inches above the tank.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14560667#post14560667 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by cchase231
Hi there,
im toying with the idea of getting rid of my TEK 6 bulb and installing a retro in my canopy. I am converting my tank to an SPS dominated set up and I will need to be able to keep corals toward the bottom of my 90 (48x18x24). Here are my Q's

1. I am debating between the aquactinic reflectors and the icecaps, which would you recommend? I like the 2 inch width of the AAs but it doesnt really matter because I wont be able to fit more than 8 bulbs with either reflector, the tek2's are just too wide and I would lose one bulb.

2. Should I overdrive on IC ballasts? Or I was thinking of using 2 Osrams or a combo of the 2. I guess I am just wondering how necessary over driving is, if possible I would rather not, but if it will help significantly I can deal with it.

3. Cooling - what is the best application of fans? I know this may depend on whether they are OD or not, but in general is it better too blow air over the entire bulb or duct the air too just blow over the end caps?

Thanks for your help, appreciate all your time to help myself and everyone else out.

Get the 4 lamp Ice Cap VHO T5 (Overdriven) and a 2 Lamp Ice Cap HO T5 (Normally Driven) Run the fans blowing in from the rear down each row of endcaps/lamp ends.

Even using the Aquactinics reflectors crammin 8 lamps n there isn't really going to give you much more light where you need it.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14560830#post14560830 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jh2pizza
Can they be over driven with Workhorse 7 ballast?

In threory but I would be hesitent to reco overdriving using the WH ballasts. They have none of the safety circuits real T5 ballasts do. Could melt things down if there is a malfunction.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14561093#post14561093 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
The Sunpower I have peaks at 7.5v. Dunno about the PM's. Try asking in the reefgeek forum.


I think Snaza did a bunch of testing with it all and found the 4.5v was not the best setting. I think he found 9v was. Not sure though
 
For a 140g soft/lps with 23-24" surface to substrate depth and a 10" canopy would a 48" 6x54 IceCap reflector and standard ballast retrofit setup be sufficient or is the IceCap VHO retrofit setup better suited? How about the following bulb combo if so (not necessarily in this order?):
3 - ATI Blue Plus
1 - UVL75/25 14000K AquaBlue
1 - ATI 12000K Aquablue Special
1 - GE 6500K Daylight

Thank you!! :D
 
I've been following this thread for awile now and didn't see anything on photo period what's everybody running , Im running the constellation on my 90gal with blue plus, 6500 daylight, blueplus,uvl 75/25, blue plus, 6500 daylight and blue plus, running the 3 blue pluses 12 hours and the others 8 hrs, joe.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14546777#post14546777 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Grim Reefer
Front
ATI Aquablue
ATI Blue Plus
GE 6500K Daylight
ATI Blue Plus
UVL 75/25
ATI Blue Plus

Hey Grim,

I appreciate you taking the time to respond to my questions. I will do a little research on the suggested bulbs.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14561543#post14561543 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by INNOVATOR
For a 140g soft/lps with 23-24" surface to substrate depth and a 10" canopy would a 48" 6x54 IceCap reflector and standard ballast retrofit setup be sufficient or is the IceCap VHO retrofit setup better suited? How about the following bulb combo if so (not necessarily in this order?):
3 - ATI Blue Plus
1 - UVL75/25 14000K AquaBlue
1 - ATI 12000K Aquablue Special
1 - GE 6500K Daylight

Thank you!! :D

With the tall canopy I would either overdrive 4 of the lamps or lower the retros down so they are within about 6" of the water surface.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14561892#post14561892 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by rtparty
Hey Grim,

Have you had a chance to test the new KZ bulbs?

Thanks

Ryan

You mean the UVL's? No yet. Been doing something crazy like trying to make money for the family for a change instead of just spending it. turns out I am going to spend a bunch before making any so I should get to the UVL lamps pretty quick.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14562312#post14562312 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jtunafish
I've been following this thread for awile now and didn't see anything on photo period what's everybody running , Im running the constellation on my 90gal with blue plus, 6500 daylight, blueplus,uvl 75/25, blue plus, 6500 daylight and blue plus, running the 3 blue pluses 12 hours and the others 8 hrs, joe.

You could start out with the Blue Pluses for 12 hours, blue Plus and 75/25 for 10 hours (or visa versa) for 10 hours and the day lights 6 to 8 hours.
 
Hi Grimm, had a chance to check out the new UVL 454 bulbs at the LFS, and they are pretty nice. We had a 454 side by side with a 75/25 UVL bulb, and it still had a yellowish tint. I was thinking about trying 2 of the 454 bulbs with 1 of the 75/25 bulbs, but need a 4th bulb. Was thinking about doing a UVL actinic white. What do you think that would look like, or do you have another recommendation? Fixture is over a 40B that I keep mostly zoas, rics, and yuma's in, so I don't need incredible par, mostly going for the right look. Thanks.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top