The T5 Q&a Thread

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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15030562#post15030562 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by rtparty
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=1637546

There is the link foe that article.

Regarding your tank I would go with the Aquactinics TX5 instead. One extra bulb for better coloration.

ATI Blue Plus
UVL 75/25
ATI Aquablue or Blue Plus or UVL Super Actinic
UVL Actinic White
ATI Blue Plus

Thanks rtparty! Where can I find theAquactinics?
Grandis
 
Hi Grim. I have a Reflux 12k 150w MH with 4 24" T5s and it's time to change the T5s again I went with your recommendation a year ago with the T5 bulbs below. Would you still recommend this combination of bulbs or a different combination? I've been happy with the color, not too blue, not too white. One question... this is the second round of T5 bulbs for me, and both times, the UVL Super Actinic seemed to be almost burned out at the end of 12 months where you could barely tell the bulb was lit at all, and the other 3 bulbs still seemed to be really bright. Is this normal for all Super Actnic bulbs, or just UVL Super Actinics or was it just the individual bulb that I got? I did try swapping the Super Actinic that seemed almost burned out last night, to a different slot in my light fixture, and moved the blue plus to the slot where the Super Actnic was, to make sure it wasn't the ballast or slot that was the problem, and the blue plus was just as bright when I moved it to where the Super Actnic had been and the super actnic bulb was just as dim in the other slot. Thanks, Pam

ATI Blue Plus
UVL Super Actinic
UVL 75/25
ATI Blue Plus

Thanks, Pam
 
have any of you guys ever tried using the current brite leds to see if you get shimmer when using t5's? i'm looking into possibly using them, probably the 10k version with aquablue, and blue+. i think you'll get good shimmer considering that they are a different spectrum. any comments, suggestions, experience, or snyde remarks?lol

i believe the holy grail is shimmer like MH, with efficiency like t5's running cool and less wattage used, no chiller and you ac runs less trying to cool ambient air. that's what i'm after!
 
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I have a 65g (36x18x24) with a 6 bulb TEK fixture sitting about 3 inches above the water. SPS dominant with some LPS and zoas in the front down low. After several months of tinkering with bulb combos, I finally have one that really looks fantastic!

Front:

ATI blue plus
UVL 75/25
ATI blue plus
GE 6500K
ATI aquablue special
ATI blue plus

My final step was to put in the GE 6500K when I had been previously been running another blue plus. Greens and reds look a ton better. What's your opinion of running this combo in terms of long term growth and color? Thanks, this thread has always been a great help.
 
Grim Suggested these for mine, 2 ATI Blue Plus, 1 UVL Actinic White and a GE 6500K Daylight, Wheres the best place to buy them all at once?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15032968#post15032968 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Jkraft136
Grim Suggested these for mine, 2 ATI Blue Plus, 1 UVL Actinic White and a GE 6500K Daylight, Wheres the best place to buy them all at once?

ReefGeek
 
Hey Grim,

Just ordered a 60" 6X80 ATI Powermodule for my SPS tank with the following bulbs:

3 ATI Blue Plus
1 GE 6500
1 ATI Aqua Blue Special
1 Fiji Purple

Any suggestions on the order front to back?
 
Folt, my .02c if you want them
front
Blue +
Fiji Purple
AB special
GE 6500
Blue +
Blue +

:) probably what the gurus will say
 
Hi folks. This is my first post on ReefCentral.

I have a 12x54w T5 fixture being custom-made for me to retrofit into the hood over my 120 gallon tank (4'x2'x2'). This will replace a 6x54w DIY retro-fitted fixture.

The old 6-tube retrofit has 3 Giesemanne AquaBlue+ and 3 Giesemanne Actinic+ bulbs.

Now that I've brought my water quality into near-perfect condition (thank heaven for the sulfur denitrifier and my rowaphos reactor), I've decided to finally go for some SPS. The first half dozen frags went in last week. I decided they would benefit from more light.

With an array of 12 tubes, I realize that I have a lot of flexibility. I'm open to suggestions for how to augment my AquaBlue+ and Actinic+.

I also realize that these questions have been covered again and again, but this darn thread is so long that I can't imagine reading the whole thing beginning to end. However, if it's easier for someone to respond by pointing me to some particular messages, that would certainly work for me.

Thanks in advance.
 
I have my light wired with 3 ballast

socket

1 - 660a
2 - 660b
3- 660a
4- wh5
5 -660b
6 - 660a
7 - 660b

I have the following bulbs

3 Aqua Science 22K
3 Aqua Science 15K
2 Blue Plus
1 Fiji Purple

What bulbs and what order do you recommend? We were running Radiums 20K on HQI ballast before.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15030675#post15030675 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by pammy
Hi Grim. I have a Reflux 12k 150w MH with 4 24" T5s and it's time to change the T5s again I went with your recommendation a year ago with the T5 bulbs below. Would you still recommend this combination of bulbs or a different combination? I've been happy with the color, not too blue, not too white. One question... this is the second round of T5 bulbs for me, and both times, the UVL Super Actinic seemed to be almost burned out at the end of 12 months where you could barely tell the bulb was lit at all, and the other 3 bulbs still seemed to be really bright. Is this normal for all Super Actnic bulbs, or just UVL Super Actinics or was it just the individual bulb that I got? I did try swapping the Super Actinic that seemed almost burned out last night, to a different slot in my light fixture, and moved the blue plus to the slot where the Super Actnic was, to make sure it wasn't the ballast or slot that was the problem, and the blue plus was just as bright when I moved it to where the Super Actnic had been and the super actnic bulb was just as dim in the other slot. Thanks, Pam

ATI Blue Plus
UVL Super Actinic
UVL 75/25
ATI Blue Plus

Thanks, Pam

Actinic bulbs only last 9 months although I suggest replacing them every 6. I would personally dump the actinic and throw in another Blue Plus. If that is too blue add an Aquablue in.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15032624#post15032624 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Rockpile
I have a 65g (36x18x24) with a 6 bulb TEK fixture sitting about 3 inches above the water. SPS dominant with some LPS and zoas in the front down low. After several months of tinkering with bulb combos, I finally have one that really looks fantastic!

Front:

ATI blue plus
UVL 75/25
ATI blue plus
GE 6500K
ATI aquablue special
ATI blue plus

My final step was to put in the GE 6500K when I had been previously been running another blue plus. Greens and reds look a ton better. What's your opinion of running this combo in terms of long term growth and color? Thanks, this thread has always been a great help.


Your combo looks good
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15033958#post15033958 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jh2pizza
I have my light wired with 3 ballast

socket

1 - 660a
2 - 660b
3- 660a
4- wh5
5 -660b
6 - 660a
7 - 660b

I have the following bulbs

3 Aqua Science 22K
3 Aqua Science 15K
2 Blue Plus
1 Fiji Purple

What bulbs and what order do you recommend? We were running Radiums 20K on HQI ballast before.


Blue Plus
Fiji Purple
AS 22K
AS 15K
ATI Blue Plus
AS 22k
AS 22k

If that ends up too blue then just change a 22k with a 15k. Overdriving the blue bulbs makes them very white compared to normal. That is why I say run more of the blues.
 
Ahhh, well that would explain it Ryan. Thanks! Pam

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15034072#post15034072 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by rtparty
Actinic bulbs only last 9 months although I suggest replacing them every 6. I would personally dump the actinic and throw in another Blue Plus. If that is too blue add an Aquablue in.
 
grim,
awhile back you said that a 2 fan unit directed at the top of the fixture would be an adequate way to cool a tek fixture. Would it be more beneficial to install computer fans inside the fixture and have the push air out of it?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15039889#post15039889 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by kretzkiller
grim,
awhile back you said that a 2 fan unit directed at the top of the fixture would be an adequate way to cool a tek fixture. Would it be more beneficial to install computer fans inside the fixture and have the push air out of it?

From what I have read and seen it is hard to do that without making your fixture look bad. Usually the fans stick out of the top and look funny, IMO. Also I think the other issue was there is no way to get the air to move around the bulbs. The reflectors block all air.

The reason the ATI works so well is because when the air goes into the fixture it is forced into some holes that blow directly on the cold spot of a bulb. The air is then forced to run along the length of the bulb and out the other side. The acrylic shield on the ATI's acts like a duct. With out the shield the cooling would be minimal.

So if you can find a way to install the fans so that it moves cold air around the ballasts and bulbs then it would work really well, IMO.

Hope that helps.
 
Grimm,
I have an aquactinics tx5 and am running
blue +
super actinic
aquasun
blue +
aquablue --- It looks ok but my sps don't have that POP I see in some of these TOTM tanks running t-5. What would you suggest I run for more pop?
 
I replaced 2 MH 250 watt and 3 vho with 8 T5 pushed with icecap 660s. My water temp went from 83 to 86-87. The canopy is enclosed with a 8" fan blowing down and 2 4" fans blowing down on the end caps. Other than cutting larger holes in the side of the canopy any other suggestions?

IMG_2788.jpg


IMG_2788.jpg


IMG_2793.jpg


IMG_2794.jpg
 
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