THE Tank Build By Aqua Digital

The black python power supply is about the same size if not larger.
Sweet Jesus.

I love trying new LED units and as we distribute Ecotech it was a natural progression, light weight, slim, full spectrum. I think the Radion will take some beating to be honest.

It looks pretty good on power but will have to see. Still not my type fixture. It's a 2011 product but it's using Cree XP. That is so 2009. We asked why there's no XM LEDs on the fixture since everyone is using them now and the answer from Ecotech was price/lumen. I think it's more than that. True, you get more lumen per dollar on the XP light but you would have to crank it up to get the lumen of the XM. This tells me that Ecotech does not care about the end customer who actually have to pay for the electric bill. They could've used the XM and the fixture would be a 100W instead of a 130W.
 
XM is only useful in deep tanks below 30" where SPS are on the bottom, , but most people have SPS only to 75% depth at the deepest.

This is why I opted for the XPG Black Python. XM is simply too bright for most set ups but it does have its uses in very deep tanks.

Ecotech have a 130w fixture with the correct colour temperature based on the most popular set up. Ecotech also use optics that channel the light deeper but do not create spotting, where as pacific sun do not use optics so the need for brighter LEDS are required and you will have to run them higher than optically driven LEDS arrays. I am dropping from a 160w XPG fixture with no optics to a 130w fixture with optics. This does not mean Pacific sun have it wrong its just another way of skinning the same cat!

So you will end up running the XM most likely at the same rating as an optical XPG.

You also have purchased a great fixture and you will be happy with it for years to come I have no doubts. Both units are excellent and it comes down to personal choice, I love them both, people will choose what is right for them, just as with Ai and radion, or maxspec etc all have their own merits to the purchaser, there is no loser here.
 
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The problem with using optics is spot lighting. These pictures in this thread show apparent dark spot at the top of the tank where the two beams meet.
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2087136
To get rid of the spot light, the fixture would have to mount even higher. Hence, a loss of brightness.
Using more powerful LEDs with no optic provide you better coverage and versatility.
 
Thats depends on what optics are used, yes I agree with some brands I have tested. I am not seeing any dark spots at the top, thats not a an effect of optics even if it was there in fact the opposite, you get a conicle effect on some optics.

Nobody has seen a spotting effect in Ecotech in fact thats was one of its highest merits noted.

Be happy with your lamp, it will serve you well, there is no debate as to which one is best they both are great.
 
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I look forward to the radion GHL hook up also, this should be a breeze as the GHL Ecotech module for the pumps will also work with the light fixture once the source code has been released, I guess sometime early next year.

Will the ProfiLux be able to control the lights wirelessly as well? If so, will it be able to control each unit (let's say you have 4 over your tank) individually just like the new wireless factory Ecotech unit?
 
IF/When the connection is made then yes, it would be controlled by the Ecotech Vortech module made by GHL so one module would control both pumps and lights.

I dont have any other info for now other than what Ecotech has published in the past about third party hook up to their lamps.
 
Michael disregard that question. I was thinking of the new AI Sols with the new AI wireless controllers. Each light module can be addressed individually wirelessly from the AI controller.
 
Oh yes post 183 :confused:

ha ok dosing pumps? Not best used for water change or ATO this is not the purpose of a doser of any kind, use a solenoid off the RO line for ATO and small water pumps for water change
 
Ok here we go the rest of the guide ;)

So before we can even start talking about setting up dose rates and anything else we need to program the doser. (if you are reading this on the FM forum, I hope this info helps you also)

For slave dosers with the profiLux

This is where the profiLux shines above all other controllers, as you know GHL make a slave doser that works in unison with the controller, this gives the unique feature that you can dose in controlled ML as well as timed, this is quite unique to ProfiLux and why all in one solutions really are far better.

I am assuming everyone knows how to program the initial state of the doser? Ok here is a basic overview

Plug doser with power applied into S1S4 directly (remove digital power bar)

Go to socket function outlet

Click on program digital power bar/ Doser

Set numbering from the last number of your power bar, for example if you have one power bar set as #7, the software will do the rest, follow onscreen prompts and exit.

Plug digital power bar back into S1S4 and doser data cable into the second western port on the power bar.

Stand Alone dosers

You have it more simple ;) Just decide if you want timed or manual mode, then just sit back and wait for me to write up the balling dosing guide part. The slavers ;) read on -

Now the fun stuff.

I have set my doser to work from S7 to S10 being a 4 pump doser, I am using pumps as follows

S7 = DKH set up on timer 2
S8 = Mg set up on timer 3
S9 = Ca set up on timer 4

So once you have programmed the initial state of your doser stay in socket function outlet and decide what timers you wish to use (ones not already utilsed obviously). Then edit the sockets accordingly i.e socket 7 = timer 2

as shown here

Picture1-1.jpg


Repeat the above for all dosers assigning different timers per dosing pump

Once done go to one of the assigned timers and decide how you wish the doser to operate.

My choice has been manual dosing, the reason for this is I like to have control as to when the dosing events take place (Sa doser users select manual dosing for this also). In the screen shot below you will see for Timer 2 which is pump 1 DKH I have selected manual mode and programmed 6 seperate timed events of 10ml over a 24 hour period, this gives me 60ml over 24 hours.

Picture2.jpg


If you look closely the dosing rate I have edited to 50ml/min, the reason for this is to calibrate the doser to actually dose 10ml per timed cycle. The doser factory settings is 60ml/min so why change? Well its all down to what your dosing, what pipe you use etc etc, so the rate will change.

How to work out 10ml in one dosing cycle?

get yourself a 10ml syringe marked at 10ml and remove the plunger and block the small exit hole.

Set the doser up for one event a couple of minutes ahead of your current time.

place the tube in the upside down syringe and wait for the timed dosing event to start.

Remove the tube and note how much was dosed in this event.

Mine dosed 8ml instead on 10ml so i decreased the flow rate to 50ml/min then repeated above, it now doses 10ml in every event.

I repeated this for each pump.

This completes the equipment set up stage, next step balling salt mixing and setting up initial dosing -

This is post #183.
Profilux 3ex or 3 would have this dosing capability.
 
Late last night I finally got to set one unit up on our home 24" cube! After taking down the Pacific Sun 160w Black Python.

If you have been following my tank build thread I have gone from Ai through Pacific sun and now onto the Radion.

The first impression is how light the unit is, the construction is what i would expect from an Ipad, tight solid and very well crafted, everything fits well together and a great deal of attention has gone into the eye candy touch.

Onto functionality, the software is a breeze, it took me a bit longer as I am the typical alpha male when it comes to a set of destructions,

1. Open box.
2. Stand back and be smug
3. Find recycling
4. file instructions under the empty cereal packet from this morning

So please dont do this, I would have hit the sack at 11pm not midnight if I had bothered to read them, that being said it is not rocket science you just need to (no really) know the order of plugging in the USB.

Light rendition - WOW!! Hands down Ecotech have this licked! I have played with enough little glowing diode devices now to know what is and what is not and the Radion hits the spot, I found colours in my leopard wrasse that I did not know existed. My corals now pop.

I initially set up the lamp to 14K but for me being the true UK reef keeper where we like a more natural look, I found this a bit too blue so opted for 12K and still thinking of going down further to 10K, this is one cool factor with the Radion, having ore set K ratings.

I am also able to run mine at full bore 100%, this is due to my corals used to basking under 160w for the last 6 months, however the 130w of the Radion is no less bright as they run the XPG's at full 5w.

Here is a little home movie of me at home

http://youtu.be/uq0fvpKyDDg

Next step - FULL GHL control :)
 
Strange. My lfs PS is just as big as the picture above.
Anyway, can't wait to see it fully controllable with the profilux.
 
Lol. It's the same freaking size! Large!
radion1.jpg

Anyway, let's not get too caught up with the size of the power supply like I am. Keep us updated with the Profilux and Radion function compatibility.
 
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