The Ultimate DIY Rocks!

Which supports some of the earlier statements about water curing in saltwater. Maybe that's the key to a short duration water cure? So a choice between the high cost of the salt or the long duration of curing in fresh water?
 
Re: Quick Hardening Cement

Re: Quick Hardening Cement

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15573516#post15573516 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by TheFishMan65
I have almost read every post since the beginning all 5 or 6 splits. I am on page 34 and hopefully someone will answer this by the time I get here.

From what I read the opinion is not to use premixed fast set becuase they are less porous than regular portland. What I never saw or missed was what the addition of calcium chloride (I think that was it) does to the cement.

Thanks
i think i remember something said way back about it..

it makes the portland set up really fast....if you add to much you wont have time to make some nice sized rocks....i dont know if seting up to fast will make the rock to brittle or not though..
 
Calcium Chloride

Calcium Chloride

Actually I was wondering about the porosity. I know the "œpoor water in and time how long it takes to get to the other side" test won't change much. I think of that as a large scale porosity test, and from what I have read, appears to be all about construction technique. But concrete soaks up water into tiny pores and capillaries. What I think we want for the anaerobic areas. So my question is does anyone know what calcium chloride does to a small scale porosity?

Someone at Lowe's (but in contracting so a little more knowledgeable then some) told me that calcium chloride is added to a lot of sidewalks. So I don't think that the hardness or brittleness will be affected.
 
Be careful with that statement that Saltwater cures the live rock faster than fresh. I see that these recent statements are opinion, but we don't want mis-information to make it onto this thread. I think this thread is too large and too detailed as it is, really.

As for my opinion, I would think that freshwater would cure faster due to the lower pH than salt water. I would think that freshwater would be able to "absorb" more of the pH leeching, requiring more soaking to reach a higher pH what would trigger a water change.

7.0 pH ---> 11.0 pH kuring in fresh water
8.3 pH ---> 11.0 pH kuring in salt water
 
DIY rock panels after 2 years

DIY rock panels after 2 years

My DIY rock panels are in my tank for two years now. They are doing very well (see picture), thanks for all the advice!
 
Re: DIY rock panels after 2 years

Re: DIY rock panels after 2 years

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15746920#post15746920 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ruko1988
My DIY rock panels are in my tank for two years now. They are doing very well (see picture), thanks for all the advice!

Beautiful!
 
Gold, my tap water is the same pH as my saltwater so in that light there is no difference. However the saltwater contains a lot more "hardness" so your statement may still hold true despite the pH levels being similar. The freshwater would be able to take on more leached calcium precipitate unless there is something else chemically that would prevent this.
 
Man I miss this thread and it's been a while! Glad to see this thread is still going strong.. I've learned so much and have started a small business from what I learned here a while back.

As for my rocks (Lite Rocks on my web page), I currently use a mix of perlite, white cement, and aragonite sand. I do use the dribble method because it produces the nooks and crannies that most reefers like, plus I can better form rocks with this method.

For Kuring I modded the Steam process (Based on readings here and outside sources) by making it bigger. I usually reach a temp of about 140F (No higher), which takes about 5-6 hours, but steam a total of about 8 hours. I let it cool off for a couple days before Curing them.

For Curing I use 100G tubs that I fill with tap water and heat to 130F. I move the water in the tubs with powerheads at about 30x turnover. I change the water weekly.. it usually takes about 4-5 weeks before I get the pH to about 9, which I find suitable for tank use. The only unfortunate thing going against me is that my tap water is about the same pH as our saltwater.. 8.3 :lolspin:

I just switched to making my Lite Rock exclusively (I was making Reg Rock using dolomite) and am using a new method in forming them, meaning all my rock are in the tubs. I'll try to get some decent pictures during the next water change (It's no fun sticking your hands in 130F water!). I have to get these pictures to update my site anyway, but would love to hear from you guys, your opinions. :)
 
Hey everyone! Right after I posted the last post I had issues to my account here and just now got it resolved (Slight glitch when changing emails).

I managed to take a shot of the rock I make. I recently placed one in my own tank. I didn't really want to show it because I had just done a lot of work on the tank, and had an accident with a powerhead which blew up the sand bed all over the place, which also meant funk getting on everything.

Don't mind all the funk on the rock, it went away after about two days since the incident. :rolleyes:

What's really nice about the below rock is how light it is, yet so strong! I'll be showing my other rock (Using my new forming method) as soon as I do a water change on the tubs.

Hope you enjoy!

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Thanks J, I wanted to mention it at the other place, but this is my wifey's laptop.. I am in Baaaaaston (Boston) ;)
 
Well you know you can turn off the BS right? Anyway, I like the rock. Reminds me of some I have seen in mature tanks. Any idea how to gauge porosity?
 
Well you know you can turn off the BS right? Anyway, I like the rock. Reminds me of some I have seen in mature tanks. Any idea how to gauge porosity?

Yeah but this is her work laptop.. and what's the fun without the BS? :D

Thanks for the compliments, it's so nice to hear that something you make doesn't stink! :dance:

What do you mean about gauging porosity?
 
Well, I guess my chief concern about any rock is how much area is available for bacterial growth. We see this a lot in mature tanks with beautiful coraline covered rocks. They can crash and burn because the coraline has essentially negated the porosity of the rock. So here comes that annoying urchin, doing nothing but its job...cleaning off the rocks. :)

So with rock like yours, how do you gauge the extent to which it can house bacteria? I would think there must be some method, perhaps some kind of water displacement test? Just a curiosity of mine. How do we, as hobbyists, value rock?
 
I don't think that's a realistic measurment to ask someone who's making their own rock. I don't know how you'd even attempt it without access to a lab.

I think the rock looks great, and it looks like it's very pourous.
 
Well, I am not really asking him to do it. Just bringing up a topic of some importance. I think we often gauge it by how light the rock is in proportion to its volume. Really, I am just curious if there have been any methods developed that any DIY'r can use.
 
You might be able to do a simple displacement test. Have a container large enough for the rock, filled with a known amount of water. Wrap the rock in plastic that fits tight, put it in the container and figure out how much water it displaced. remove the plastic, repeat. the difference in displaced volume would tell you how much "porosity" the rock has...sort of.
 
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