The Ultimate Eight Foot Softie Reef
- Thread starter InsaneClownFish
- Start date
InsaneClownFish
New member
I'll tell ya, not to get gushy over a power strip, but the body is a real solid aluminum and the coating is exceptionally durable. The ends are a very dense rubber material. In all the time I've had it there are no mars on it. After having this strip for years there is zero play in the sockets.
The cord is at least 3'. It's actually very long, it might even be 5'.
The cord is at least 3'. It's actually very long, it might even be 5'.
JustinReef
New member
Nice power strip! Certainly better than the GFCI powerstrip I am using...I may have to go looking for that one soon!
ctreefer
New member
Looking really good. I think you're going to do a great job on the stand and be happier with it being your own DIY. I agree with Melev regarding the 4x4's. No need to go that route. Save the space underneath.
Nice plugs on the stanley products. I'll have to get you a nice 6' level even if I don't have access to the power strips. thanks again for the plugs.
I have to post some pics of your corals when I first started watching them and now. I just looked at the pics and that duncan is practically doubled in size! Its waiting for you to be complete.
Melev, can't wait for your presentation in CT next month!!! Looking forward to it.
jnb, you are right in that if the gfc trips the whole strip goes down. What Melev was suggesting is that each outlet be wired with a GFC separately and not in line so that if one trips it doesn't cause the other to trip. Two different conversations. Insaneclownfish would need to install another strip in his other outlet to achieve this without wiring another box. This would allow everything on the other strip to continue to run in the event the first one got tripped.
Nice plugs on the stanley products. I'll have to get you a nice 6' level even if I don't have access to the power strips. thanks again for the plugs.
I have to post some pics of your corals when I first started watching them and now. I just looked at the pics and that duncan is practically doubled in size! Its waiting for you to be complete.
Melev, can't wait for your presentation in CT next month!!! Looking forward to it.
jnb, you are right in that if the gfc trips the whole strip goes down. What Melev was suggesting is that each outlet be wired with a GFC separately and not in line so that if one trips it doesn't cause the other to trip. Two different conversations. Insaneclownfish would need to install another strip in his other outlet to achieve this without wiring another box. This would allow everything on the other strip to continue to run in the event the first one got tripped.
InsaneClownFish
New member
Vince explained it nicely. The plan is to use another GFCI strip for the second outlet so that one has the lights and return pump. The other will have the circulation pumps and skimmer so that I can kill them at the flick of a switch for feedings or other chores.
I like the heft of that level, and a 6' one would be great. My father was an electricians' foreman by trade, and the few levels he passed down to me are all very small(probably because electrical work can happen in very tight spaces). I prefer something with a long span that is easy to see, grip, and difficult to misplace.
There is little doubt in my mind you are both correct about the 4x4s. However, considering this is my first project of this caliber they lend to a solid placebo of my "sleep at night" factor.
Thanks so much for being the babysitter of my corals. The propagation is an added bonus :thumbsup:
The first tank shots are in!!!
Honestly, I don't know what James expects me to do with this tank- It doesn't even look like it will hold water!
I like the heft of that level, and a 6' one would be great. My father was an electricians' foreman by trade, and the few levels he passed down to me are all very small(probably because electrical work can happen in very tight spaces). I prefer something with a long span that is easy to see, grip, and difficult to misplace.
There is little doubt in my mind you are both correct about the 4x4s. However, considering this is my first project of this caliber they lend to a solid placebo of my "sleep at night" factor.
Thanks so much for being the babysitter of my corals. The propagation is an added bonus :thumbsup:
The first tank shots are in!!!
Honestly, I don't know what James expects me to do with this tank- It doesn't even look like it will hold water!
InsaneClownFish
New member
Thanks Rich.
I'm very pleased. I worked for 8-9 hours today to get this stand done. I took some pics to document my progress:
I'm very pleased. I worked for 8-9 hours today to get this stand done. I took some pics to document my progress:
InsaneClownFish
New member
JustinReef
New member
I like the progression of drinks
super311fan
New member
Looking good man! :thumbsup:
ctreefer
New member
I'm a wee bit concerned about the stand being on top of the carpet and also mounted to the wall. You might consider if you haven't already holding off on mounting it to the wall of if possible only mount it in a few spots (far apart from each other) and make a verticle slot in the 2x6 and use some washers so that as the tank/stand sinks into the carpet the front will drop with the back. The screws would just help prevent racking which I suspect with the amount of wood you're using would be minimal anyways.
CulturedAquatic
New member
John, Doing a great job. One thing I forgot to ask you when we talk about the design a few days ago, was about the flooring material. Like Vince mentioned, you should remove the carpet, no so much for the compression aspect, but the moisture and mold issues that could occur. Also, while your at it, give yourself about 18" in frount and left side of the tank where you could put some tile or other flooring material down. This will help with water changes, hands in the tank (dipping), etc. It will also keep the stand from settling since tiles don't compress. You could also just leave the stand sitting on the concrete floor. If you ever replace the carpet, having tiles in front will also make the carpet installation easier and nicer. If you already have the stand built, just unbolt (unscrew) the back braces from the wall, take out the carpet and move it back in. The tiles in front can go in after the tank is up, I know the tank is coming in less than 10 day and you are pressed for time. You got my number, just give me a call if you have any more questions.
Again, looks awesome and you are doing a great job.
Again, looks awesome and you are doing a great job.
InsaneClownFish
New member
melev- Hmmm maybe my fiance's accord 
I'm pushing 250 and I can sit on any individual rung, or the frame, without it budging
justinpsmith- Man was I thirsty
super311fan- Thanks, I'm really surprised that, basically, I was able to build this thing in a day.
ctreefer- It's hard to tell from the pictures, but the 4x4s are actually a touch shorter than the frame, so they are pushed down to the carpet. The frame itself is a hair off the carpet. I think this will alleviate any issues you're concerned about. The part I'm concerned about is that the weight sits mainly on the beams as the tank is 25" and the exterior frame is actually 28"- 1.5" frame around where the actual tank is. However, if I remember my physics and "dispersion," a small amount of that force should be transfered to the upper frame because the plywood is a flat surface that spans past the tank.
I had considered adding some reinforcing brackets to the back 3 beams where they attach to the 4x4s since the joists will support a great deal of the weight. I really wasn't convinced I needed them; but since I have them on hand, I think I'll add those now.
T5PO- I'll eat your food and drink your drinks, but I wouldn't trust my skills with someone else's floor just yet. :mixed:
CulturedAquatic - Who says I'm done! I plan on adding more birch plywood to the inside slots that you see uncovered. I'm also going to seal it and poly it to make as nice of a shell as possible. Remember guys, this is a basement, so I'm a little less concerned about some of the same issues that would have bothered me if it was on any other level of the house. I'm basically dealing with concrete underneath.
The sump will be all the way to the right of the stand, the far left area I will leave open. That way if moisture does get down there, for any reason, there will be some ventilation.
I should also mention that the back bottom frame is a bit more flush with the carpet than the front. The front two pieces have a bit more of a bow up than the back two. This was one of your invaluable suggestions Bob- as I was extra mindful of keeping the crown up on all pieces. Thanks again for taking the time to answer the myriad of questions I fired at you.
Thanks again to all those who helped with their invaluable insight- Bob, Marc, Vince, and anyone else.
I'm pushing 250 and I can sit on any individual rung, or the frame, without it budging justinpsmith- Man was I thirsty
super311fan- Thanks, I'm really surprised that, basically, I was able to build this thing in a day.
ctreefer- It's hard to tell from the pictures, but the 4x4s are actually a touch shorter than the frame, so they are pushed down to the carpet. The frame itself is a hair off the carpet. I think this will alleviate any issues you're concerned about. The part I'm concerned about is that the weight sits mainly on the beams as the tank is 25" and the exterior frame is actually 28"- 1.5" frame around where the actual tank is. However, if I remember my physics and "dispersion," a small amount of that force should be transfered to the upper frame because the plywood is a flat surface that spans past the tank.
I had considered adding some reinforcing brackets to the back 3 beams where they attach to the 4x4s since the joists will support a great deal of the weight. I really wasn't convinced I needed them; but since I have them on hand, I think I'll add those now.
T5PO- I'll eat your food and drink your drinks, but I wouldn't trust my skills with someone else's floor just yet. :mixed:
CulturedAquatic - Who says I'm done! I plan on adding more birch plywood to the inside slots that you see uncovered. I'm also going to seal it and poly it to make as nice of a shell as possible. Remember guys, this is a basement, so I'm a little less concerned about some of the same issues that would have bothered me if it was on any other level of the house. I'm basically dealing with concrete underneath.
The sump will be all the way to the right of the stand, the far left area I will leave open. That way if moisture does get down there, for any reason, there will be some ventilation.
I should also mention that the back bottom frame is a bit more flush with the carpet than the front. The front two pieces have a bit more of a bow up than the back two. This was one of your invaluable suggestions Bob- as I was extra mindful of keeping the crown up on all pieces. Thanks again for taking the time to answer the myriad of questions I fired at you.
Thanks again to all those who helped with their invaluable insight- Bob, Marc, Vince, and anyone else.
InsaneClownFish
New member
It was just 3 days ago I found out that PL-Reef would no longer be able to make my stand. I Basically built this in one night. I have little to no wood working or building experience. The outside frame I built two days ago, but the majority of the work I did last night. I probably worked for 8-9 hours, and my fiance was insistent I was channeling some old Italian carpenter.
I can't express to everyone how proud I am right now. I did my reading on DIY stands and drew upon bits and pieces, and received some sound advice. Originally, I had thought about doing a built into the wall stand, so I had already worked out many of the aspects in my head. Three days ago from work was the first time I put these ideas to a sketchup(the first picture). I designed this and built it, with my own two hands, in 2 days, and it's difficult to express how satisfying this experience was. I had told myself I would never do that. I shouldn't "try it." I was truly afraid to try. Since the tank will be here soon, necessity truly is the mother of invention. I am very proud.
Now back to some tank porn. My current tank:
My new tank:
I asked James if I will receive everything I see in the picture.
I can't express to everyone how proud I am right now. I did my reading on DIY stands and drew upon bits and pieces, and received some sound advice. Originally, I had thought about doing a built into the wall stand, so I had already worked out many of the aspects in my head. Three days ago from work was the first time I put these ideas to a sketchup(the first picture). I designed this and built it, with my own two hands, in 2 days, and it's difficult to express how satisfying this experience was. I had told myself I would never do that. I shouldn't "try it." I was truly afraid to try. Since the tank will be here soon, necessity truly is the mother of invention. I am very proud.
Now back to some tank porn. My current tank:
My new tank:
I asked James if I will receive everything I see in the picture.
InsaneClownFish
New member
Thanks Marc. I'm getting excited for the tank now.
I've been toying around with the idea of using white laminated 3/4" Mildeen(sp), the mdf/pressboard stuff they use for building shelves, over the plywood. I would screw down the plywood then glue/laminate the Mildeen on top.
Any suggestions on the thickness of the plywood for this application? Normally I would use 3/4", but is 1/2" sufficient because of the thickness of the Mildeen?
Also, because of the long span, can I use sheets of plywood in 36" or 48" lengths across the top, or does this pose an issue?
I've been toying around with the idea of using white laminated 3/4" Mildeen(sp), the mdf/pressboard stuff they use for building shelves, over the plywood. I would screw down the plywood then glue/laminate the Mildeen on top.
Any suggestions on the thickness of the plywood for this application? Normally I would use 3/4", but is 1/2" sufficient because of the thickness of the Mildeen?
Also, because of the long span, can I use sheets of plywood in 36" or 48" lengths across the top, or does this pose an issue?
melev
Well-known member
If you want a nice waterproof surface, formica is the way to go. MDF, once it gets wet, will swell. It only takes a nick here or there, or for water to travel along the surface until it hits an exposed edge.
If I was building it, it would be a solid 3/4" plywood piece, rather than scabbing pieces together. I like the consistency of it being one board.
Don't forget your 3/4" foam under the tank. You can use trim to hide it.
If I was building it, it would be a solid 3/4" plywood piece, rather than scabbing pieces together. I like the consistency of it being one board.
Don't forget your 3/4" foam under the tank. You can use trim to hide it.
