The Ultimate Eight Foot Softie Reef
- Thread starter InsaneClownFish
- Start date
InsaneClownFish
New member
mothra - Ahh now I understand what you are saying. It makes perfect sense, and for everyday shots I surely don't want to lose AF.
Leonardo_ - What an honor to have you stop in on my thread! Your Formosa Forrest always stands out in my mind as one of the most inspirational tanks on RC. Congratulations on your new system. I peeked in on your thread and the new tank looks incredible.
I've begun work on my central sump. I purchased another 44 Brute this morning, cleaned it with vinegar, drilled it out, and installed the bulkheads and fittings. It's currently filling with RO/DI water:
I got the go ahead from my fiance to use the closet underneath the stairs to park the sump:
The hole I drilled passes into the kid's playroom next to the stairs:
The tank "den" is on the opposite side of the long wall in the playroom. I then drilled two holes through the adjacent sheetrock on this wall straight into the tank room and slightly above the sump. I took my time and eyed out the wiring, power outlets, and studs in the general area. Also, I had to be careful not to hit the sump. The holes had to be slightly higher than the tank sump in order to drain:
Leonardo_ - What an honor to have you stop in on my thread! Your Formosa Forrest always stands out in my mind as one of the most inspirational tanks on RC. Congratulations on your new system. I peeked in on your thread and the new tank looks incredible.
I've begun work on my central sump. I purchased another 44 Brute this morning, cleaned it with vinegar, drilled it out, and installed the bulkheads and fittings. It's currently filling with RO/DI water:
I got the go ahead from my fiance to use the closet underneath the stairs to park the sump:
The hole I drilled passes into the kid's playroom next to the stairs:
The tank "den" is on the opposite side of the long wall in the playroom. I then drilled two holes through the adjacent sheetrock on this wall straight into the tank room and slightly above the sump. I took my time and eyed out the wiring, power outlets, and studs in the general area. Also, I had to be careful not to hit the sump. The holes had to be slightly higher than the tank sump in order to drain:
FL.Joe
New member
ICF, yea we're talking about the same hammer(lps). the problem with mine is my closed loop outputs are throughout the length of tank so there's no real low flow area...especailly near the top.
I know what you mean the number of fish, since 1 of the 3 chromis died there has been more bullying going on. so i'll probably add 2 more.
I know what you mean the number of fish, since 1 of the 3 chromis died there has been more bullying going on. so i'll probably add 2 more.
InsaneClownFish
New member
I swear to God sometimes when I start Reef related projects I have a Mini-Melev sitting on my shoulder laughing at me
I know exactly what "melev would say." I knew you were going to make fun of me for those gigantic holes. Here's the conversation I have with my Mini-Melev each time I start a reef related project:
Mini-Melev: "Why are you doing that?" :lol:
Me: "Because x, y, z."
Mini-Melev: "No, seriously, why are you doing that?" :smokin:
So in my defense I have to say I only had two circular bits laying around. I chose the larger of the two
It is actually a good thing they are that large. It lets me see into the walls so that I know I am avoiding any electrical wires, and I can reach my hands completely through. One thing I've learned in reefing is that I am always leaving myself too little space to work with. This time I made sure I went in the other direction. The lines will be hidden behind a 60 inch TV. Thankfully, both the kids are super respectful of the reef- so we'll see how that one goes. :crazy1:
It's Paverstone High Desert Play Sand sold at Home Depot. It's very white and passed the vinegar test. I also did some extensive reading that said it is basically calcium carbonate. This sand however is not 100% clean in my estimation. I think there were tiny deposits of quartz and silicates in it, and I attribute some of my extraneous algae growth to it. Would I use it again- probably yes because it is so inexpensive- and since I plan to use it in my refugium tank, but more on that shortly. The sand is a touch heavier than oolithic, and it is getting a decent enough bacterial coat. I didn't have any issues until I added the Magnum which pushed sand a good 3 feet across the back of the tank. Since I wasn't winning the battle of returning it to it's proper location, I have since added a layer of crushed coral to the bare spots in the front and back of the tank. I love the look.
Since you have a closed loop with multiple outlets, is there a way to dial back flow to selected ones? I've never owned a hammer. I would ask melev what he thinks, as he has a gorgeous pink hammer.
InsaneClownFish
New member
Last night drove me nuts. The drain line was way to big for the amount of water being pumped in and I would get a flushing toilet from the 44 Brute. At one point, there was too much water pumping in and I have no idea how that was happening. I moved the pump around and ended up with a STRONG flow out of the 44 Brute that would effectively raise the water in the sump underneath the tank. After countless attempts at adjustments with adding smaller pieces of drain line, I decided to straighten out the return line and cut some excess length off. This had a very minimal effect.
I eventually just kept playing with extra vinyl tubing by adding reducers to both ends of the drain. Finally, at around 4:30am I found a balance. All the levels seem to be remaining the same. At one point it appeared it was the same but would slowly lower the level of the water in the Brute.
Besides using a larger Maxijet than the 900, or installing a ball valve on the drain, is there something I can do to reduce the flow from the drain? (yes a larger pump would not reduce the flow but may match it better) Incase I run into this imbalance in the future, is there a something I can do to keep the return and drain from the Brute balanced? There must be a trick! I'm sure there is something I am missing.
I eventually just kept playing with extra vinyl tubing by adding reducers to both ends of the drain. Finally, at around 4:30am I found a balance. All the levels seem to be remaining the same. At one point it appeared it was the same but would slowly lower the level of the water in the Brute.
Besides using a larger Maxijet than the 900, or installing a ball valve on the drain, is there something I can do to reduce the flow from the drain? (yes a larger pump would not reduce the flow but may match it better) Incase I run into this imbalance in the future, is there a something I can do to keep the return and drain from the Brute balanced? There must be a trick! I'm sure there is something I am missing.
melev
Well-known member
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14148685#post14148685 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by InsaneClownFish
So in my defense I have to say I only had two circular bits laying around. I chose the larger of the two
The lines will be hidden behind a 60 inch TV. Thankfully, both the kids are super respectful of the reef- so we'll see how that one goes. :crazy1:
Since you have a closed loop with multiple outlets, is there a way to dial back flow to selected ones? I've never owned a hammer. I would ask melev what he thinks, as he has a gorgeous pink hammer.
So if you had two hammers, you'd use the bigger one?
I understand your reasoning, but filling those holes again won't be fun. That being said, if you didn't dispose of the sheetrock that is inside the hole saw, you can use a small board (even a paint mixing stick), insert it in the hole, screw it top and bottom to the wall, then notch the small round piece of sheetrock to accommodate that tubing, insert it into place, screw it to the board, and fill in the seam with drywall patch. A little paint, and it will be virtually invisible.What you kids do, I can only predict. :hammer:
My pink branching hammer seems to like the flow actually, and gets pounded away by the VorTech on one side. It's crazy, but for the most part it seems content.
InsaneClownFish
New member
Thanks to token and melev, I think I know exactly what is going on with my Brute sump drain. Since the drain is submerged, it's creating a siphon. Initially, I thought I needed to just move the drain so that the water trickles into the 40 Breeder. Now that I think about it though, because the drain bulkhead is submerged, I may need to build a standpipe so that the water level stays consistent.
So now on to part two of my project. I'll be using my old cube tank as a refugium/seahorse/mangrove tank in our living room. This tank will tie into the 44 Brute container. I need to drill through the living room floor directly into the furnace room:
The lines will run across the upper joist and through the wall into the closet here:
I plan on using a Mag 12 on the bottom of the sump for the return.
As much as I like the current light setup, I am very disappointed there is no shimmer. I put alot of thought into adding a couple of small halides to add shimmer(to spotlight so to speak)- to add some brightness to the rear left corner, and some highlights to the front right corner. I seriously considered scrapping the whole lighting system in favor of starting over one streamlined fixture. It's a bit cost prohibitive. A fellow reefer suggested that most reefers eventually go through the lighting dilemma, oftentimes changing it to realize they were more pleased with their original setup. This solidified it- the best solution is to add the same spectrum bulb on each end in order to preserve the current "look."
Instead of going 150w HQIs for spotlights, or pendants with smaller reflectors, I decided to search for reflectors with better spread and 250w HQIs. I bought a couple of LumenMax 3s ,with 250w DE Phoenix HQIs, from a fellow reefer here on RC:
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1549166
I'll most likely mate these to a Dual Galaxy Ballast.
Here's where the pendants will hang:
Since the halides will only be supplements, I'll probably run the T5s 6-7 hours and the halides 2-3 hours. I may be the first reefer to us halides to supplement T5s.
Reefing after dark:
So now on to part two of my project. I'll be using my old cube tank as a refugium/seahorse/mangrove tank in our living room. This tank will tie into the 44 Brute container. I need to drill through the living room floor directly into the furnace room:
The lines will run across the upper joist and through the wall into the closet here:
I plan on using a Mag 12 on the bottom of the sump for the return.
As much as I like the current light setup, I am very disappointed there is no shimmer. I put alot of thought into adding a couple of small halides to add shimmer(to spotlight so to speak)- to add some brightness to the rear left corner, and some highlights to the front right corner. I seriously considered scrapping the whole lighting system in favor of starting over one streamlined fixture. It's a bit cost prohibitive. A fellow reefer suggested that most reefers eventually go through the lighting dilemma, oftentimes changing it to realize they were more pleased with their original setup. This solidified it- the best solution is to add the same spectrum bulb on each end in order to preserve the current "look."
Instead of going 150w HQIs for spotlights, or pendants with smaller reflectors, I decided to search for reflectors with better spread and 250w HQIs. I bought a couple of LumenMax 3s ,with 250w DE Phoenix HQIs, from a fellow reefer here on RC:
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1549166
I'll most likely mate these to a Dual Galaxy Ballast.
Here's where the pendants will hang:
Since the halides will only be supplements, I'll probably run the T5s 6-7 hours and the halides 2-3 hours. I may be the first reefer to us halides to supplement T5s.
Reefing after dark:
InsaneClownFish
New member
Thanks to token on the DIY forum and melev, all of your help paid off. In my ramblings here and my discussion with "melev" through pm I determined that lifting the drain higher out of the water wouldn't solve my issue. The only way to keep the water level consistent was to install a box or standpipe inside the Brute.
So on my way home from work this morning I stopped at Lowes and snagged some plumbing parts and had the standpipe built in 5 minutes. I had to use parts from the upstairs tank so I'll have to replace those. I also added some silicone around the return outlet bulkhead as there was a miniscule drip, and I removed the reducers from both ends of the drain.
The water level is now consistent and the Sump is performing as designed! I'll post pictures soon.
As far as your concerns(token) about the Brute humidity, the sump will be run covered, as the main tank and 40 Breeder sump provide a massive surface area for evap/exchange etc. This is right across from my RO/DI unit, so it is convenient. It is even on a dolly, so if need be it can be disconnected and moved on the fly. The height of the Brute is critical for this to work, or I would need to completely remove my 40 breeder sump and take down part of a wall to use the tub as you suggested- or to use a large pump to return back from the tub.
So on my way home from work this morning I stopped at Lowes and snagged some plumbing parts and had the standpipe built in 5 minutes. I had to use parts from the upstairs tank so I'll have to replace those. I also added some silicone around the return outlet bulkhead as there was a miniscule drip, and I removed the reducers from both ends of the drain.
The water level is now consistent and the Sump is performing as designed! I'll post pictures soon.
As far as your concerns(token) about the Brute humidity, the sump will be run covered, as the main tank and 40 Breeder sump provide a massive surface area for evap/exchange etc. This is right across from my RO/DI unit, so it is convenient. It is even on a dolly, so if need be it can be disconnected and moved on the fly. The height of the Brute is critical for this to work, or I would need to completely remove my 40 breeder sump and take down part of a wall to use the tub as you suggested- or to use a large pump to return back from the tub.
InsaneClownFish
New member
The stand pipe I built this morning:
Up and running with a consistent waterline tonight:
Here's a nice shot of my mimic tang from tonight:
Up and running with a consistent waterline tonight:
Here's a nice shot of my mimic tang from tonight:
melev
Well-known member
I still don't understand what you are doing, but I do like that I was able to help you find the solution. :lol:
Looks great - it just doesn't make sense. I must be missing more pictures. Or is this more stuff that mini-melev gave you grief about, so you never took pictures?
Looks great - it just doesn't make sense. I must be missing more pictures. Or is this more stuff that mini-melev gave you grief about, so you never took pictures?
InsaneClownFish
New member
I try to keep everything I document as vague as possible. That way I keep mini-melev at bay!
:lol:
I'm basically tying in the tank upstairs to the tank downstairs. You're only seeing part of the project, because I haven't had time to start the second part yet.
So here we go:
This tank:
Has a 40 Breeder sump directly underneath:
In the return section of this 40 Breeder sump is a maxijet 900 that pumps water through two walls into this 44 Brute central sump that sits in a closet underneath the stairs:
The 44 Brute drains into the 40 Breeder return section, essentially increasing water volume by over 1/3 and mixing water between the main tank and the 44 Brute.
The closet the 44 Brute sits in is next to the main tank room and directly across from where my RO/DI unit hangs- making water changes more convenient- just did one
A Mag Drive pump will be placed in the bottom of the 44 Brute closet sump that will pump water into the furnace room seen here(basically a small hallway and adjacent to the closet):
The lines will go through the ceiling of this room and end up feeding our beautiful low flow refugium/mangroove/seahorse tank. This tank sits in our living room directly above the furnace room. The overflow will drain through the floor, back across the furnace room, and descend into the 44 Brute Central Sump in the closet underneath the stairs:
My goals were twofold:
1. Increase the system water volume.
2. Create a low flow display refugium upstairs that would tie into the main display in the finished basement downstairs
melev
Well-known member
In reviewing all of your pictures, I still have to ask if I understand it correctly.
The Ultimate Eight Foot Softie Reef drains into the 40g glass sump.
The Beautiful Low Flow Refugium/Mangrove/Seahorse Tank drains into the 44g Brute.
The 40g glass sump's return pump pushes water into the Brute.
The Brute's return pump pushes water back into the cube upstairs.
How does the water get back into the 8' softie tank? Does the water in the Brute have enough gravity pressure to return to the 8' tank?
And also, looking in the space under the stairs, I see the studs, and the wiring. With that visible access, your excuse for why you needed an enormous hole no longer is valid. :lol:
The Ultimate Eight Foot Softie Reef drains into the 40g glass sump.
The Beautiful Low Flow Refugium/Mangrove/Seahorse Tank drains into the 44g Brute.
The 40g glass sump's return pump pushes water into the Brute.
The Brute's return pump pushes water back into the cube upstairs.
How does the water get back into the 8' softie tank? Does the water in the Brute have enough gravity pressure to return to the 8' tank?
And also, looking in the space under the stairs, I see the studs, and the wiring. With that visible access, your excuse for why you needed an enormous hole no longer is valid. :lol:
InsaneClownFish
New member
Thanks guys!
Marc, from above:
Three pumps at work here:
Eheim 1250- Pumps water from the 40 Breeder into the 8 foot tank only
Maxijet 900- Pumps water from the 40 Breeder into the 44 Brute only
MAG 9.5(0r 12)- Pumps water from the 44 Brute into the Cube tank only
Main display only drains into the 40 Breeder
44 Brute only drains into the 40 Breeder
Cube tank ONLY drains into the 44 Brute
If a man leaves Chicago at 9:30 am and three people board a boat in NYC harbor at 4:45, while 7 people in LA board a westbound train going 47 mph east bound...blah nvm
:rollface:
PS- If I'm still unclear hop on a plane this weekend- I'll provide the beverages and food, you provide the, "oh!"
Marc, from above:
Three pumps at work here:
Eheim 1250- Pumps water from the 40 Breeder into the 8 foot tank only
Maxijet 900- Pumps water from the 40 Breeder into the 44 Brute only
MAG 9.5(0r 12)- Pumps water from the 44 Brute into the Cube tank only
Main display only drains into the 40 Breeder
44 Brute only drains into the 40 Breeder
Cube tank ONLY drains into the 44 Brute
If a man leaves Chicago at 9:30 am and three people board a boat in NYC harbor at 4:45, while 7 people in LA board a westbound train going 47 mph east bound...blah nvm
:rollface:
PS- If I'm still unclear hop on a plane this weekend- I'll provide the beverages and food, you provide the, "oh!"
