The Ultimate Eight Foot Softie Reef

those are some great new frags, they really stand out under your lighting. how long had they been in the tank before you snapped that shot?

the tang following you around would be a cool video, maybe other will mimic him and you'll have a whole school of fish behind you.

this may have already come up, but could you use a mud spatula, the plastic tool you apply filler onto drywall with? sorry if it doesnt make much sense...i havent had my coffee yet.
 
Congrats on your new frags. Quite a few pretty zoas, I see. Did you dip the new arrivals?

Having a tang follow you around as you clean the glass is always fun. Mine do the same. Just remember that they do have a scalpel and can cut you quickly. Try to move slowly around a nearby fish to avoid spooking it.

And contact James for your wonder board stuff. If you want, you can get some cutting board material anywhere, and cut it into a small piece. What he gives you is very similar, if not exactly that same. Plus, with it being white, as you scrape you have the white backdrop in your hand which allows you to see algae spots on the walls of the tank. It is very practical.

I didn't dip the new frags, but I have dipped in the past. All of the frags came from Jon's personal tank or his system at the school. There was one exception, the zoas I won from the raffle. Maybe I should have dipped. I'm creating a zoa garden right on the front left of the tank. I'm not too concerned with pests from the zoas because they will all be able to be removed and treated if necessary.

The Armor of God Pallies, or as Jon describes them, the "no fooling around orange," are just well, "Insane." :) I have never seen that amazing of a color from Zoanthids in person. The Tubs Blues will take some time to color up. I actually thought he might have given me the wrong frag at first, but I talked with him and he confirmed my suspicion that if it was the correct frag- then I need to find just the right lighting to "blue" them up.

The mimic is still a juvi, so it doesn't appear to have a fully developed scalpel yet. I took a closer look and it seems as if it might be developing them. I'm completely conscious of this when I get near my Lieutenant and the nori clip as he spooks much more easily.

I need to call James. I'm sure he's just forgotten to toss them in the mail.



those are some great new frags, they really stand out under your lighting. how long had they been in the tank before you snapped that shot?

the tang following you around would be a cool video, maybe other will mimic him and you'll have a whole school of fish behind you.

this may have already come up, but could you use a mud spatula, the plastic tool you apply filler onto drywall with? sorry if it doesnt make much sense...i havent had my coffee yet.

Thanks Joe! They were probably in the tank less than an hour.

All of the fish are quite bold and will follow me because they always think they are going to be fed. Even the damsels will not scurry as much. The activity in the tank keeps my Blue Sided Fairy wrasse out and about 24/7. What a stunning fish. Once I get the halides running I'm going to try for some new videos using my fiance's camcorder. They should be better than the ones from my old camera. ;)

I know exactly the tool you're referring to. Unfortunately, I think the plastic is too hard. The key with acrylic is to use a scraper that is a softer material than the acrylic. In that way it is always the scraper that "gives" and not the acrylic.
 
Rhizo Thanks! The Rhizo in your pic is spectacular- is it yours?

A few things I wanted to mention. I haven't had a free minute to test my alkalinity again. I'm going to do this as soon as I get home this morning.

maroun.c had mentioned that switching to Reef Crystals from I/O raised his alk to 14. I may be having a similar issue here. I changed just about 40 gallons of water split over two days with a 60/40 mix of IO to RC salt. I haven' buffered since my high Alk readings.

I've noticed alot of aggression between my Lieutenant Tang and my Behn's Damsel. While significantly smaller, the Behn's is completely intolerant of the large tang. While the Behn's Damsel is clearly the most aggressive fish in the tank, it will let other fish near it's territory.
Once the Lieutenant ventures past the 3.5 foot mark of it's side the Behn's edges over and chases it back.

Interestingly enough, the Lieutenant has two sleeping/hiding spots that he has dug out. One is on the extreme left of the tank, and the other is on the extreme right of the tank right by where the Behn's sleeps. When the Lieutenant is near the Behn's while sleeping, or hiding, there is zero aggression. The aggression is only displayed when the Lieutenant grazes towards the right side of the tank.
 
good choice I think - the stealth heaters while seem to be constructed nicely do not have a heater-on indicator light and I am going to remove mine for that very reason maybe - it makes me uncomfortable - of couse just because the light is on does not mean it is neccessarily heating I guess - I am anal speaking of which are you using double controller? - if not I will sell you my unused ranco (I have 2) and drop in one of james scapers if he remains silent to get you thru for a while

or if you want a scaper NOW - shoot me your address and you will have it tomorrow morning for shipping cost

...i]
Thanks for the insights Marc.

I've just placed an order with Marine Depot, here's the goodies I have coming my way this week:

Galaxy Dual 250w E-Ballast
2 200w Ebo Jager Heaters
1 100w Ebo Jager Heaters
Maxijet 1200
:worried:
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Measured the Alk this morning and it's down to 4.5 meg/l. Does anyone see any issue with me keeping it at this level, or should I attempt to get it down to 3.5-4.0 meg/l.

jnb- The tank temperature has been floating around 76, so the added heater will be dropped in when they arrive later today. I'm not having any issues with the Stealth thus far, so I may decide to keep it in service. I haven't decided if the lack of an indicator light is an issue for me. While I appreciate the offer for the Ranco controller and the scraper, I am completely tapped right now after this last Marine Depot order. I'll definitely keep you in mind if I decide to add one. James has always been extremely helpful, so on my end it's just a matter of finding a free minute to give him a call.
 
Natural sea water has a total alkalinity of 2-3 meg/L, but aquarium water should have a total alkalinity of 4-6 meg/L.

This is a direct quote from my SeaChem test kit. It's great to know I'm getting sound advice from my testers. :rolleye1:

One thing I wanted to make note of was that a fellow reefer pointed out some of the aiptasia on one of his pieces and some bryopsis on another that I should remove. I cut off/out the aiptasia with a plastic knife and coated/rubbed the areas with alk/paste. I did the same with the bryopsis before either piece was placed in the tank.

I have 4 or 5 Black Foot Tiger Trochus in the tank. This morning, I was excited to see a baby crawling on the front glass. Whether it hitch hiked in, or hatched in the tank, I thought it was super cool- especially considering that snail eggs surviving in captive reef systems are very rare.

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Completely off topic, but my fiance was making Lasagna tonight. We started talking and she became distracted. In that split second Bear got more grated cheese than the Lasagna:

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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14213431#post14213431 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by InsaneClownFish
This is a direct quote from my SeaChem test kit.
Maybe it's the cynic in me but doesn't SeaChem make a buffer...?

I still, after all these years, readily admit that my understanding of the chemistry of this hobby is my weakest link. Would it be true, in loose terms, that pushing Alk higher would mean pushing Ca and Mg higher so that Alk can be maintained at the elevated level?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14213431#post14213431 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by InsaneClownFish
This is a direct quote from my SeaChem test kit. It's great to know I'm getting sound advice from my testers. :rolleye1:

Since I tend to use dKH as the measurement, I'm more familiar with the 8 to 11 dKH rule. But the conversion to meq/L is right off the Salifert test kit instructions, and that is where I got the numbers I posted above.

Articles by RHF will show what the closest to NSW numbers should be.

That tiny snail is neat. Nice find.
 
I've been working on a catalog of the various species of marine life in my system. I'll update it periodically:

Fish

Juvenile Acanthurus pyroferus- Lemonpeel Tang
Acanthurus tennetti- Lieutenant Tang
Cirrhilabrus cyanopleura- Blue Sided Fairy Wrasse
Amphiron ocellaris- Ocellaris Clownfish
Dascyllus aruanus- Three Stripe Damsel
2 Dascyllus trimaculatus- Domino Damsel
2 Chrysiptera cyanea- Blue Damsel
3 Chrysiptera parasema- Yellowtail Damsel
Sub adult Neoglyphidodon nigroris- Behn’s Damsel
2 Pomacentrus chrysurus- Whitetail Damsel

LPS

8 Inch Around Hot Pink Chalice- Echinophyllia sp
Julian Sprung Frag grown Green Australian Duncans at 40 heads- Duncanopsammia axifuga(grown out from 6-7 and one fragging)
Shows Growth!
2 Inch Head Pink Tipped Branching Hammer- Euphyllia paranchora


Soft Corals

10 inch Yellow Fiji Leather- Sarcophyton elegans
Shows Growth With an Added Baby Underneath!
5 Inch Toadstool Leather- Sarcophyton sp.
Small Neon Green Sinularia or Nephtia(ID pending)
Orange Carnation Coral- Dendronephthya sp. Shows Growth!
Pulsing Xenia- Xenia Sp. Shows Growth!
Anthellia- Anthellia Sp. Shows Growth!


Mushrooms
Metallic Green Striped Mushrooms Shows Growth!
Teal Spotted Mushrooms
Blue Mushrooms
Superman Mushrooms
Green/Pink Frilly Mushrooms
Pink Frilly Mushrooms
Florescent Blue/Green Frilly Mushrooms
Steel Blue/Purple Ricordia
Orange Ricordia Shows Growth!


Zoanthids/Palythoas
Pastel Pink, Green Center Palythoas
Metallic Pink Palythoas
Armor of God Palythoas
Chocolate Brown/Green Palythoas Shows Growth!
Pink Zoanthids Shows Growth!
Green Zoanthids
Eagle Eye Zoanthids
Orange Skirted, Yellow Sun-Center Zoanthids
Pastel Purple, Yellow Centered, Light Green Skirted Tri-Color Zoanthids




Clams
4.5 Inch Yellow and Brown Squamosa Clam

Anemones
3 Mini Capet Anemones(Finally found where these attached)

Inverts
Scarlet Hermit
30-40 Blue Leg Hermits
5 Cerith Snails
4 Tiger Trochus Snails
2 Spaghetti Worms
Mini Brittle Stars
Brittle Starfish
250 Dwarf Ceriths(picking up this weekend)

Macro Algae
Halimeda
Cheato
 
I still, after all these years, readily admit that my understanding of the chemistry of this hobby is my weakest link. Would it be true, in loose terms, that pushing Alk higher would mean pushing Ca and Mg higher so that Alk can be maintained at the elevated level?

I agree- not my strongest area either. ;) The cynic in me might agree with you, however, I think if that was the case they'd be more interested in detailing a dkh conversion.

Since I tend to use dKH as the measurement, I'm more familiar with the 8 to 11 dKH rule. But the conversion to meq/L is right off the Salifert test kit instructions, and that is where I got the numbers I posted above.

Articles by RHF will show what the closest to NSW numbers should be.

I've been looking through the articles by RHF. He hasn't yet tested the SeaChem test kit for alk, but he does seem to echo the sentiments from the SeaChem literature that does not give a conversion to dkh because of its limited accuracy.

I've always used dkh, and because of the new test kits I'm getting used to meg/l. Marc, be careful with those Salifert kits. They've long be lauded as the superior test kit of the marine industry until everyone started hoping on the Elos bandwagon. I like the SeaChem test kit because while it may not be as exacting- only giving readings in the ".5" meg/l increments, there is less room for error.

When I used the Salifert Alkalinity test kit, there was always a large margin for error in the way that the test was performed. In fact, I even think there was a thread awhile back here on RC about inconsistencies with the results particular to the Alk test. I also found that their test kits spoil more quickly than others.


Good luck with those damsels...

Thanks, I think... :) They're really fine, there's plenty of hiding and swimming room.

awesome looking tank! can't wait to see things all grown in more!

Thanks so much! You and me both! :D

Algae with Zero Levels- my latest musings here...
Nitrate- 0
Phosphate- 0

I was about to order a small reactor to run GFO to reduce phosphates, because, well, I was convinced I had phosphates.
I tested for Nitrates over the last week. Still zero.

The tank is crystal clear, but I'm wondering why I'm scraping brown algae, diatoms, off the acrylic every other day. There's also stringy cyano in patches throughout the tank. I have a significant amount of flow- Almost 50x turnover for my 8ft softie dominated tank.

Might this still be a bit of new tank syndrome? - the tank is just about 3 months and 4 months cycled.

I do have a decent fish load- 15 fish, but most very small.
Total system water volume is probably around 160 gallons currently.

I do feed heavily twice a day and there is DT's phyto mixed in with my premade food. However, if it was a result of the feedings, wouldn't I be showing nitrates/phosphates- either directly from the food or uneaten food decay?

Fish, Corals, Inverts all look fantastic. My yellow Fiji Leather is closed up, but that is fairly normal as it does this periodically- when open it's gorgeous.

The only other thing of mention is that my Alk shot up to 5meg/l. It's been lowered to 4-4.5meg/l and my ph has been 8.2...but this we already know

My Calcium is a bit low- 340-360, so I buffered this.

The only other telling thing is that there's more of the stringy cyano near the front where I added crushed coral about a month ago.

I'm also very deficient in the clean up crew department. I only have 4-5 Tiger Trochus Snails, 4 or 5 Ceriths, 1 scarlet hermit, a brittle star, mini brittles, and about 30-40 blue leg hermits. I'll be picking up 250 baby ceriths from Steve hopefully this weekend. Still, I don't thing this explains it.

Any thoughts? Any other information I can provide?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14227115#post14227115 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by InsaneClownFish

The tank is crystal clear, but I'm wondering why I'm scraping brown algae, diatoms, off the acrylic every other day. There's also stringy cyano in patches throughout the tank. I have a significant amount of flow- Almost 50x turnover for my 8ft softie dominated tank.

Might this still be a bit of new tank syndrome? - the tank is just about 3 months and 4 months cycled.
Those symptoms sound like a bit of "New Tank Syndrome" to me. I tend to expect that. I have set-up, moved or otherwise started tanks and that just seems to be a matter of the tank "settling in." Have you had the "Green Algae on Glass" cycle yet? (Well, in your case, "Green Algae on Acrylic"...) Once that bloom passes, I consider the tank cycled.
 
They will be mean as @#$!. And those domino's will get huge. 4-5in. easy. The blue devils aren't called that for no reason. And I have observed those behn's damsels beat that crap out of anything. We had one at the LFS I worked at and it would pick on any fish we put in with it and was too ugly for anyone to buy because it was an adult.

I wouldn't keep them with fairy wrasses. Especially with an open top tank, you don't want anything to encourage them to jump. Just trying to help ya, I would think twice about keeping them long term.
 
token- I'm pretty sure that's what it is. It's seen a brown and a brown with green strings- but that was near the end of my initial cycle. I posted this info on my club's forum and that seems to be the consensus.

The Dual Galaxy trips the GFCI I'm using. From what I read this is fairly common with electronic ballasts, so I'll try another type of GFCI I have laying around tomorrow. Here's a few comparison shots with the 2 250w HQI Phoenix 14k added:

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tcmfish- The Behn's may be removed to my holding sump. The Dominos and Blues are actually pretty calm compared with the white tails. For what it's worth, nothing bothers the Blue Sided Fairy. I don't know why this is. Maybe is has to do with his size, but he swims with the damsels with zero aggression, and they pretty much ignore the mimic. I can only report what I've seen. Sure there's some chasing amongst the damsels, but nothing crazy.

Now the Behn's and my Lieutenant Tang- that's a whole different story ;)
 
great improvement on the lights, its like night and day. i hope the algae problem can be resolved quickly. could it be something contributing a small amount of phosphate (just enough to get the algae growing) and its not showing up in your testing because the algae is utilizing the phosphates completely?
 
FL.Joe - Yes, you're spot on. When I asked my reef club about it's most likely a situation where there are small amounts of nitrate and phosphate present but they are being consumed before I test.
 
Its funny, I am doing something similar with my new 135g. I have decided to do pretty much just LPS and softies and I placed a 250w 12k HQI over the center. I will be placing 24" VHO on each end to augment the 250w. I made my decision due to heat concerns associated with the MH lighting however, like most folks, I do appreciate the effect produced by MH lights. If you have ever been down around 20 - 25 meters diving, you end up chasing that look for the rest of your hobby. Nice tank, great job and thanks for all the documentation.

Happy Reefing!
 
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