to maroon breeder

They are doing well, thanks. I will see if I can take few photos tonight. I have had good luck with these chrysogaster/latifasciatus lately after losing like 10-15 of them. So far I have never been able to save a single chrysogaster using formalin. Just fresh water dip/hypo salinity/anti-biotic combination seems do the trick for me. Every time I use formalin dip, their skin conditions become worse. They normally die in a day or two after that.

I have 2.5 pair established. The other 0.5 is in quarantine about 5 weeks now. Doing great after suffering Brookynella/ick in the first 2 weeks.

Bob
 
My breeding room
 

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chrysopterus/latifasciatus

The one with a forked tail.
 

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Damn fine setup you got going there Bob! If you were here in California your electric bill would be $500 a month, like mine.
 
Please pardon the algae, I've taken to scraping it only once every couple of months to help keep nitrate & water changes down. It also limits cleaning which can scare certain clowns and prohibit them from spawning.
 

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Thanks for all the photos -
I am extremely envious of the set-ups that you guys have. I am on the minimalist approach to things for now but am inspired to greater things looking at your photos. Now just to convince the wife...
 
I am glad my wife is with me for this hobby. It is my daughter has to keep reminding us how much we had spend each month.:)
 
Nice setup bcjm!
What size tanks are they that your have your pairs and young in?
(Please use inches as being australian makes it difficult when people say 38gal. all glass- got no idea what they are talking about)

I am setting up a bank of tanks in an attempt to breed black & white occelaris and regular variety. Ive got a heap of questions for you guys in the coming months!

A big problem I may have will be heat, as the tanks are in the garage, which gets afternoon sun. What are ideal temps for the pairs? Normal temps?

Thanks for your help,
Matt
 
I am using 40 breeder (36x18x18). I keep mine in 80 degree temperature.

Is the black and white ocellaris like the one in the attached photo?
 

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Thanks for your reply.
Yep. thats them.
Here are some attached pics.
These pics are from a collector in Mackay (central Queensland) but they come from a guy in Darwin who has/is breeding them.

The major wholesaler here in Qld has them atm for about $20 a piece retail.
 

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I was wodering... Do any of you have a mated pair you would be willing to sell or trade for? I am just starting to breed clowns and bangaiis and would love to skip the wait for a pair to become mated. Also have any of you had success with mating a pair of maroons using different sizes hoping one is a female? I have read that it is possible, but everyone I talk to say that the female will kill the juvenile. Any input would be appreciated and any help finding a mated pair would be great.
 
Atticus,

Maroons would be an excellent fist clownfish to do some breeding with. You can find mated pairs from a number of sources. I think ORA puts out a couple of pairs here & there. If you wanted to skip the wait you might consider an inquiry to any number of the board sponsors for a mated pair of maroons. I do not have any pairs that I would be willing to part with right now. Most of what bcjm & I have would be rare to very rare and not good choices for someone who wants to actually start breeding clownfish. As far as females killing a juvenile it is a possibility. There are several methods for pairing maroons when using a large adult female. I would suggest a copy of Joyce Wilkerson's book "clownfishes" as a good starting point for someone looking to get into this portion of the obsession. Joyce details a method or two for pairing maroon clowns that I believe you would find informative.
 
What are some other "different" clowns I could try?
I was thinking of maybe A. rubrocinctus, A. akidynos, A. chrysopterus or A. latezonatus. I was thinking of these as they are not normally found in the trade, however I know of a couple of collectors that can get these. Is the general breeding of clownfish common to all species?

bcjm,
Is that a pic of your fish that you posted?
Matt
 
Matt,

Of the clowns you just mentioned your best luck would be had with A. rubrocinctus. If your wanting to dive head first I would encourage you to start off with something simple in order to get the basic process down. While your breeding something like melanopus or rubrocinctus you should start acquiring the other pairs you mentioned. Chrysopterus & latezonatus are very difficult to breed. They could take years to even start looking like they might breed. It all boils down to how long you want to wait. The breeding process is pretty much they same for all clowns but there are some subtle difference. When I did this as a "profession" my partners and I were never succesful with latezonatus, we had very mixed results with chrysopterus, and akindynos was about as difficult as clownfish in the skunk complex. These are some difficult clownfish to breed, but the more the merrier. I think if a proverbial ton of people start trying to breed the aforementioned we are bound to have way more successes. If you do go with chrysopterus I would recommend at least a 55 (48x12x24) gallon tank. They seem to need way more space as their spawning activity is a bit unique.

Jeff
 
Thanks for your reply Jeff.
I think I will start off with the 2 "forms" of the occelaris, just wondering about what else I could try.
I will see about getting these tanks I have drilled and the system setup.
Could someone else post some pics or diagrams of their setup?

Thanks
Matt
 
Thank you both for your replies,

Louis, the forums ââ"šÂ¬Ã…"œdown underââ"šÂ¬Ã‚ donââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢t get any where near as much traffic as Reef Central, RTAW an Aussie forum only has approx 600 members where Reef Central has over 15000.

I was steering clear of the bio balls due to the bad press I had been reading on this forum, seems like everyone has a different slant on the same subject, I guess there is more than one way to skin a cat as they say.

Maybe I could do a combination of the two in the sump? And remove the bio balls at a later date if they became an issue due to excessive nitrates?

Any way thanks again

Mark
 
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