Top down shots

Hi Ed,

interesting about the cyano and competition. I've always had it in the sandbed until the last month when coral growth took off. I've even started AcroPower, which was nothing but CyanoPower for me, and it hasn't taken hold.

If only we had access to more and cheap equipment to measure what is going on. :)

Hi Mark,

A lot of bacterial products claim they get rid of cyano and it's all about dosing their product (bacteria) to compete.

If you go back a page or so and watch that Microbial Seas video I posted you'll see how each coral has it's own set of bacteria specific to that coral.

There's so much happening at that microbial level it's mind blowing.

I tried MB7 and it did work but took a while 6 weeks or so........that's without carbon dosing. If you go back and pull up SunnyX and his vodka and MB7 tank, he was to able to tweak his dosing with MB7 and reduing his vodka dose to make the cyano subside.

He had a lot of success with that tank...........it's odd to me that very few reefers are doing his recipe. It was simple and inexpensive.
 
Hi Mark,

A lot of bacterial products claim they get rid of cyano and it's all about dosing their product (bacteria) to compete.

If you go back a page or so and watch that Microbial Seas video I posted you'll see how each coral has it's own set of bacteria specific to that coral.

There's so much happening at that microbial level it's mind blowing.

I tried MB7 and it did work but took a while 6 weeks or so........that's without carbon dosing. If you go back and pull up SunnyX and his vodka and MB7 tank, he was to able to tweak his dosing with MB7 and reduing his vodka dose to make the cyano subside.

He had a lot of success with that tank...........it's odd to me that very few reefers are doing his recipe. It was simple and inexpensive.

Thanks Ed, I will have a look.

I did dose a half a cap of MB7 2 weeks ago and it turned my skimmate from rather neutral in smell back to the stink I was getting when dosing vinegar. No useful information there except that is DOES do something. :) It seemed to take a full week to work it back out of the tank to where the skimmate was back to a dark sludge with a lot less smell.

I'm am constantly amazed at how a very small change can make such a big difference.
 
Hi Ed,

The your frags colors are amazing. I have a question about your Oregon Tort. Does yours have a green tint on the branches?

Thanks Dave
 
Hi Dave,

I call this coral my Navy Blue Tort......it has blue throughout the coral and is predominately navy blue. Close up to the light from above there can be some purple tints.

In the early pages of my thread I called my Navy tort an Oregon as this is what I bought it as 13 years or so ago. I changed the moniker later as it didn't fit what most call an "oregon"

tort 060115 by Big E 52, on Flickr

This is my Oregon Tort more of a royal blue color and slower grower--

Oregon 112015 by Big E 52, on Flickr

The Torts that have green skin I consider a Cali Tort....like this picture. This isn't my coral or picture.

Cali Tort by Big E 52, on Flickr

There are other "blue" torts as well as other names floating around.
 
Last edited:
Hi Dave,

I call this coral my Navy Blue Tort......it has blue throughout the coral and is predominately navy blue. Close up to the light from above there can be some purple tints.

In the early pages of my thread I called my Navy tort an Oregon as this is what I bought it as 13 years or so ago. I changed the moniker later as it didn't fit what most call an "oregon"

Tort%20mother_zpsueqiothb.jpg


This is my Oregon Tort more of a royal blue color and slower grower--

Oregon%20112015_zpsem2rbbpj.jpg


The Torts that have green skin I consider a Cali Tort....like this picture. This isn't my coral or picture.

Cali%20Tort_zpshyn3yvq2.gif


There are other "blue" torts as well as other names floating around.

Ed, your acros are so nicely saturated with colour pigments...and that with no use of LED. The Blue LED's most definitely add some saturation to most of the colours.

On my new tank I am running a temp T5 fixture (bought off a hydroponics site). I am running 2xCoral+ and 2xBlue+. I moved my Red Planet from the 47G tank to the new tank and the colour doesnt pop as much as under T5/LED combo. Still looks good, but not the degree of pigmentation present on your acros. :thumbsup:

On the 4ft tubes with 2xB+ and 2xC+ combo I noticed that combo pretty much looks like 14/20K. On my 2ft fixture the same tube combo provides a much warmer look. I saw another member on this forum mention this. I checked out with new tubes and even saw my friends unit and sure enough the longer tubes in that combo provide a cooler look.

Anyway, the B+:C+ combo you prescribe to is a great overall combo.

Look forward to more of the eye candy in the new year. Have a happy new year. :)
 
Ed, could you post an updated photo of the pink shortcake?
Pink%20shortcake_zpse3l34rtp.jpg


I bought a small colony via mail order. When it arrived, the water in the bag was slightly browny and coral was bleached...once in my tank it lost some tissue and I thought it was a dead for sure. Somehow it survived but has turned brown. In the new tank Im seeing hints of pink returning on the tips.

I'd love to see an updated pic to see the potential of mine. :)
 
Ed, your acros are so nicely saturated with colour pigments...and that with no use of LED. The Blue LED's most definitely add some saturation to most of the colours.

Hi Sahin,

To me the blue 450nm LED can add some brightness or help bring out some of the edge color on coralites of SPS. Not so much for deep saturated colors unless it's green.

I do get what you're saying though, but too much blue can kill the pop of some colors to our eyes.

They do more for zoas LPS to accentuate orange, green, yellow.


I believe an actinic- blue combo of LEDs would work best but I haven't added any because i don't believe there are any 400-420 LED diodes that will last very long.

As far a what I do to create more vivid saturated colors vs the pastel look I focus on---

1. Keeping par levels between 200-450

2. 8 hour photoperiod

3. I try to run a high energy system..........plenty of food/nutrients all day.

4. I don't run a ULNS system.

5. I don't dose any trace metals..........they cause zoo to expel and create pastel look in corals, which I don't like unless the coral is naturally pastel.

6. My water changes and the food I feed the fish keep any trace elements at good levels.


On my new tank I am running a temp T5 fixture (bought off a hydroponics site). I am running 2xCoral+ and 2xBlue+. I moved my Red Planet from the 47G tank to the new tank and the colour doesnt pop as much as under T5/LED combo. Still looks good, but not the degree of pigmentation present on your acros. :thumbsup:

On the 4ft tubes with 2xB+ and 2xC+ combo I noticed that combo pretty much looks like 14/20K. On my 2ft fixture the same tube combo provides a much warmer look. I saw another member on this forum mention this. I checked out with new tubes and even saw my friends unit and sure enough the longer tubes in that combo provide a cooler look.

Anyway, the B+:C+ combo you prescribe to is a great overall combo.

Were all the ballasts the same brand?

How about your nutrient levels, ect.?


Look forward to more of the eye candy in the new year. Have a happy new year. :)
 
How long has your tank been up for ?

The simple anwser is the current 80g rimless tank is almost 3 years old.

This all was tranferred from a 75g tank that was two years old. When I went to the 80g rimless all the same rock, corals and water were moved to the 80g.

I could say that it's been 5 years.

Some of the corals I've grown out from 13 years ago, sold off the colonies and re-grew them out into the current colonies from 2" frags.

Some of the rock in the sump has stayed wet for 17-20+ years.
 
Ed, could you post an updated photo of the pink shortcake?

I bought a small colony via mail order. When it arrived, the water in the bag was slightly browny and coral was bleached...once in my tank it lost some tissue and I thought it was a dead for sure. Somehow it survived but has turned brown. In the new tank Im seeing hints of pink returning on the tips.

I'd love to see an updated pic to see the potential of mine. :)

I fragged quite a bit of that coral so the growth pattern won't tell you much from a current pic. I can post a pic if you want to just see current coloration.

One thing to keep in mind there are probably a half dozen different shortcake colorations of that green base red/pink tip combo. I've come across 3 so far that I have kept.

These are a different coral species than the the Strawberry shortcake acropora microclados.
 
Hi Ed,

Thank you. It's such a little green I was quite sure. Looks like I'll be in the market for the Navy and Oregon.
 
Big may I say WOW!! Read your thread today and I am very very impressed by your ability to keep sps's! Reefmutt was right in giving you kudos and recommending your thread in his thread. I can't wait to see more!!!
The orange sps that is growing with your oregon blue tort is called? I'd love to have some of that and many others you have. Where do you recommend that I order corals besides the eBay and the auctioning pages on Facebook?
Again your corals look amazing!!!
 
Thanks, the orange coral is an orange monti turgescens.

I've gotten my corals from reefers/vendors on reef forums and from swaps.
 
5. I don't dose any trace metals..........they cause zoo to expel and create pastel look in corals, which I don't like unless the coral is naturally pastel.
6. My water changes and the food I feed toe fish keep any trace elements at good levels
[/QUOTE]

Ed how can be sure that dosing trace just cause zoo to expel and create pastel look?

I can see 3 category's of reefers with excellent colours here in RC, folowing 3 distinct strategies as far trace dosing and I am confused.......

One is you with amazing results with no trace dosing but regular water changes.

Second are Glenn and farmerT with again excellent results and no trace dosing but also no water changes

And third is biggles johnNY and the ausy guys from the Farm which dose trace elements, and some aiming very high concentrations of them, with again excellent results!

So I really can not make any conclusion as far trace dosing, because all of you have excellent results with saturated and not pastel colours but with different strategy's.....
 
BigE, what are your current Nitrate levels? I am nitrate low, under 0.2 and have been for some time. My corals are pale compared to when nitrates were at 2ppm+. I am about to add potassium nitrate to raise the level.

I am just curious.

I am trying to increase color and growth. Everything else is spot on for me.
 
Ed how can be sure that dosing trace just cause zoo to expel and create pastel look?

I can see 3 category's of reefers with excellent colours here in RC, folowing 3 distinct strategies as far trace dosing and I am confused.......

One is you with amazing results with no trace dosing but regular water changes.

Second are Glenn and farmerT with again excellent results and no trace dosing but also no water changes

And third is biggles johnNY and the ausy guys from the Farm which dose trace elements, and some aiming very high concentrations of them, with again excellent results!

So I really can not make any conclusion as far trace dosing, because all of you have excellent results with saturated and not pastel colours but with different strategy's.....

My comment was focused on trace metal dosing--------

Dosing of metals in reef aquariums to expel zoo has been going on for about 15 years at least……..it’s nothing new. I’ve been around that whole time when people would overdose Zeospur and trash corals more often that create beautiful systems.

You can do searches and find numerous scientific studies/articles of how heavy metals cause bleaching and death to corals due to industrial heavy metal run off ect. There is usually a stressor that happens to cause the crash, for example temperature.

Anytime you’re manipulating the zoo you open up the coral to being more susceptible to crashing due to other stressors like pests, alk/temp spikes, ect.

The coral doesn’t get amino acids, and other essential nutrients in the natural way it was intended because the zoo that provides it is literally non-existent………..because of this, you’re forced to throw in a concoction of additives, elements, foods ect.

I do everything in my control to avoid the cause of pastel corals, be it low nutrient levels, incorrect par/spectrum levels or manipulating low levels of zoo populations.

There’s nothing wrong with experimenting if people choose to do that like Biggles or Joe……………although I thought Biggles corals looked best when he stopped dosing Trace Hard, ect.

Last time I checked Glenn’s threads he doses trace elements, but the only metal is iron. He’s stated he saw no improvement or changes in dosing Mn or zinc.

I’m not familiar with FarmerT’s tank.

You also have to look at other variables like calcium reactors(adding trace metals elements) and algae filters which suck up trace metal elements.

As far as the Aussie farmers I went through their facebook pages and most of their corals look pastel compared to my tank. Not to discount what they are doing but they aren’t running standard reef tanks. Plus they have details they aren't going to share due to being a business, so I feel I get a fragmented picture of what they choose to share.

There is a lot of trace metals in food as well……I believe through water changes and what I feed my fish there are plenty of trace metals to go around.
Again, I don’t think anyone is saying a small level of trace metal dosing will hurt, but I just don’t see any results that impress me beyond other methods that create colorful thriving corals.

I’ve experimented with some of the trace element potions (Trace Hard) and I didn’t like the results on a long term basis.

I focus more on lighting because that’s what I’ve seen to have more success with eye popping colors than dosing any additives.
Nitrate levels have proven to have more impact as well with respect to color and growth………so I pay attention to that too.

I don’t like pastel colors……….i prefer the darker more vivid color look as it looks better to me and the corals aren’t being starved.

Each reef system has too many variables to draw a simple conclusion on how to grow thriving colorful corals. I share what works for me and my methods, and then people can take it from there.
 
Last edited:
BigE, what are your current Nitrate levels? I am nitrate low, under 0.2 and have been for some time. My corals are pale compared to when nitrates were at 2ppm+. I am about to add potassium nitrate to raise the level.

I am just curious.

I am trying to increase color and growth. Everything else is spot on for me.

Right now mine are at 5.0 ppm

Imo, it's more important to have a correct balance of PO4 and N
03 that fits your system, than to force specific targets.

I think there's a ballpark range of those two nutrient level ratios, but the fine tuning is more tank specific.
 
Right now mine are at 5.0 ppm

Imo, it's more important to have a correct balance of PO4 and N
03 that fits your system, than to force specific targets.

I think there's a ballpark range of those two nutrient level ratios, but the fine tuning is more tank specific.

Hi Ed,

What is your tank water's current PO4 level?

Thank you.
 
Back
Top