Top down shots
- Thread starter Big E
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Wiskey
New member
Just a quick update since we had a dialog above. I have a Apogee PAR sensor that hooks to my Multi-meter. A quick conversion gives me PAR.
I went down to 4 HO normally driven (54W 4 Foot) T5's on my tank and it was clearly not enough for Acros. The Montis were fine, but the acros reacted like they didn't have enough light.
I then started suspecting my multi-meter because the values I was getting seemed enough, and I discovered that my meter is probably off and reading high (when checked against another multi-meter). I'm going to borrow a calibrated fluke from work for reference to verify, that one should be dead accurate.
Anyway, watching the corals was clear enough, so I got two more T5's to replace the LED strips and my corals are already thanking me. The light is much more even, and less spotty than before, and the overall PAR has increased.
I'm sure I could have also overdriven the existing bulbs but I decided to cover the whole top of the tank first. If I find it lacking later I will over drive 2 bulbs at a time but I suspect I won't.
Whiskey
I went down to 4 HO normally driven (54W 4 Foot) T5's on my tank and it was clearly not enough for Acros. The Montis were fine, but the acros reacted like they didn't have enough light.
I then started suspecting my multi-meter because the values I was getting seemed enough, and I discovered that my meter is probably off and reading high (when checked against another multi-meter). I'm going to borrow a calibrated fluke from work for reference to verify, that one should be dead accurate.
Anyway, watching the corals was clear enough, so I got two more T5's to replace the LED strips and my corals are already thanking me. The light is much more even, and less spotty than before, and the overall PAR has increased.
I'm sure I could have also overdriven the existing bulbs but I decided to cover the whole top of the tank first. If I find it lacking later I will over drive 2 bulbs at a time but I suspect I won't.
Whiskey
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Big E
Premium Member
Thanks!
Thanks, it's definitely on my top 5 list of corals.
Lol, thanks again, your comments are appreciated.
Thank you
Big E
Premium Member
I'm glad the 6 bulbs are working for you.............your plan looks good. I suspect you'll be happy with the standard ballasts. Give this setup a full 3-4 months to evaluate.
Big E
Premium Member
A few new pics.......trying out flicker. Trying to size them as most of my photos
Cherry Acans
[/url]neptune & yuki R 051717 by Big E 52, on Flickr[/IMG]
Blue Cardinal
[/url]Blue Cardinal 051717 R by Big E 52, on Flickr[/IMG]
Cherry Acans
Blue Cardinal
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Big E
Premium Member
Thanks, thats my Wolverine..........it's has lavender skin and yellow coralites. My camera doesn't compliment it very well.
[/url]Wolverine R 060717 by Big E 52, on Flickr[/IMG]
A few more shots--
BC Sky Doppel
[/url]sky doppel R 041017 by Big E 52, on Flickr[/IMG]
Wild Rasberry grow out 11-06-16--
[/url]Wild Rasberry R 110616 by Big E 52, on Flickr[/IMG]
Today--
[/url]wild rasberry growout 060717 by Big E 52, on Flickr[/IMG]
BC Skinny Love-- by far the slowest growing coral I've ever had.
[/url]Skinny Love R 060717 by Big E 52, on Flickr[/IMG]
Cherry's Ultraviolet
[/url]Ultraviolet R 051717 by Big E 52, on Flickr[/IMG]
Ultimates (Rommels) Rainbow Acro - The only true rainbow acro other than the Vivids imo. It's getting ready to explode.
[/url]ultimates rainbow 060517 by Big E 52, on Flickr[/IMG]
A few more shots--
BC Sky Doppel
Wild Rasberry grow out 11-06-16--
Today--
BC Skinny Love-- by far the slowest growing coral I've ever had.
Cherry's Ultraviolet
Ultimates (Rommels) Rainbow Acro - The only true rainbow acro other than the Vivids imo. It's getting ready to explode.
Big E
Premium Member
A few more--
Red Devil Nasuta
[/url]Red Devil Nasuta R by Big E 52, on Flickr[/IMG]
White branched tri color
[/url]valida close by Big E 52, on Flickr[/IMG]
Aussie Spathulata
[/url]Aussie spath by Big E 52, on Flickr[/IMG]
White Lightning Horrida-- my favorite of the Horridas. Deep purple body and white polyps
[/url]white lightning R 060517 by Big E 52, on Flickr[/IMG]
Red Devil Nasuta
White branched tri color
Aussie Spathulata
White Lightning Horrida-- my favorite of the Horridas. Deep purple body and white polyps
lynchmob3000
New member
Me either!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Big E
Premium Member
I may have had my settings wrong on flicker.........I fixed them yesterday. If anyone is still having trouble seeing the pictures , let me know & I'll try imgur as Mark suggested. I got fed up with photobucket as it kept locking up my browsers.
Thanks Matt.....the Spath and the Horrida are wild Aussie pieces.
Red Devil is aquacultured from Rocky Mtn. I got a frag from a friend of mine. I don't think its a Nasuta as it's growing into a table form.
Thanks Matt.....the Spath and the Horrida are wild Aussie pieces.
Red Devil is aquacultured from Rocky Mtn. I got a frag from a friend of mine. I don't think its a Nasuta as it's growing into a table form.
DiscusHeckel
Acropora Gardener
Your corals look amazing Ed.
sensei
New member
Ed,
I have a question for you:
having the right spectrum and the right par is important for acros, can you explain the role of the length of photo period?
i.e. you have a light period of 8 hours with all bulbs on, what would happen if you reduce the photo period to 6 hours? would that affect color. can acros brown out like if they are not recieving enought par? I supposed growth would be reduced by 25% ( 2 hours out of 8)??
Can a long photo period compensate for lower par, meaning that an acro would be fine with respect to color and growth even if par is lower than expected?
Thanks
I have a question for you:
having the right spectrum and the right par is important for acros, can you explain the role of the length of photo period?
i.e. you have a light period of 8 hours with all bulbs on, what would happen if you reduce the photo period to 6 hours? would that affect color. can acros brown out like if they are not recieving enought par? I supposed growth would be reduced by 25% ( 2 hours out of 8)??
Can a long photo period compensate for lower par, meaning that an acro would be fine with respect to color and growth even if par is lower than expected?
Thanks
