Tropic Marine BIO-ACTIF Salt?

I have used just about an entire bucket of Bio and I am going back to RC. When I used this salt for some reason my tips on my sps we always burnt and I noticed algae on a portion of my sand bed. Did a water change with RC and everything looked relieved. JMO

What do you keep your alk level at? Commonly in dosing carbon sources we see burnt tips in SPS if the alk level is above 8 or 8.5. The carbon source in this salt mix may cause the same reaction if your maintaining a high alk level.

Jeremy
 
I've had good coral growth and color using Bio-Actif salt, but have also had a cyano problem on portions of my sand bed, so I've recently been cutting the Bio-Actif in half with my leftover stock of Reef Crystals. But I've been impressed enough after several months of Bio Actif that I'll swith to Tropic Marin Pro when my leftover RC is all gone, and maybe cut the Bio Actif to about 30% with the balance TMP. My corals have looked consistently good with the Bio-Actif, but the cyano seems to indicate the carbon is a bit too high with pure Bio-Actif. Also, I've noted a starchy substance forming on the water surface of the mixing container just after mixing (shutting the mixing pump off after the first few minutes after adding the salt to the water) - reminded me of what you get if you add dehydrated mashed potatoes to water before it all dissolves (now you know I'm quite the epicurean).
 
What do you keep your alk level at? Commonly in dosing carbon sources we see burnt tips in SPS if the alk level is above 8 or 8.5. The carbon source in this salt mix may cause the same reaction if your maintaining a high alk level.

Jeremy

I keep my alk between 8.5 and 9
 
Here's my experience with this salt after 4 or 5 10% water changes:

I top off with kalk water. I was dosing ~20 ml of vinegar daily in the top off to increase the potency of my limewater. I was having issues with cloudy water and bleaching corals. I faded out the vinegar over the course of about 2 weeks leading up to changing to this salt.

Once I stopped the vinegar the cloudiness cleared up and the corals started coloring up. I attribute most of the improvements to stopping the vinegar, I think the nutrients in the water were too low for the carbon I was adding via top off.

Unless I see some noticeable improvements over the course of the next 10 water changes I will likely not spend the extra money next time for the bio-actif.

I have not had any problems with cyano or anything else. I keep alk at 9.5-10 and have noticed no problems with SPS or any other corals for that matter.
 
I keep my alk between 8.5 and 9

If your still interested in dosing any organic source you may want to slowly drop the alk to 7.0-8.0 dkh and see if you still get the same burnt tips. In most carbon source dosing situations when burnt tips are observed it's often alleviated by dropping the alk down to normal salt water levels. Using bioactif salt is a means of carbon source dosing, so in some instances it may cause the same burnt tips we see when dosing other carbon sources.

http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2008-08/nftt/index.php

abstract
Burnt tips - Some users of organic carbon dosing have reported the tissue loss at the ends of their SPS. These "burnt tips" have recovered once the user reduced the alkalinity levels within their tank to alkalinity levels closer to natural seawater (7-8 dKH), pictured below. Unfortunately, the root cause for this is not known.

Jeremy
 
If your still interested in dosing any organic source you may want to slowly drop the alk to 7.0-8.0 dkh and see if you still get the same burnt tips. In most carbon source dosing situations when burnt tips are observed it's often alleviated by dropping the alk down to normal salt water levels. Using bioactif salt is a means of carbon source dosing, so in some instances it may cause the same burnt tips we see when dosing other carbon sources.

http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2008-08/nftt/index.php

abstract


Jeremy

Are burnt tips the same as bleaching or receeding tissue? Im having all sorts of issues with this. I am using the bioactif for 3 months now and all my chalices have been getting more pale by the day. Some actually receeded and died.

I keep my alk at 9.5 to10.5....
 
I'm having 0 issues with this salt related to bleaching or burnt tips with alk in the 9.5-10 range. Everything in my tank was bleaching with very small amounts of vinegar dosing which I have stopped. I do not think that this salt mix acts as a significant source of carbon.
 
well, i am having issues.... im going crazy trying to figure it out.... i may have to go to TM PRO Salt
 
Are burnt tips the same as bleaching or receeding tissue? Im having all sorts of issues with this. I am using the bioactif for 3 months now and all my chalices have been getting more pale by the day. Some actually receeded and died.

I keep my alk at 9.5 to10.5....

Receding tissue and bleaching sounds more like how corals will react when nutrients are driven too low or removed too fast or if nutirents are very high. Have you tested no3 and po4 lately?? Do you have much nuisnsce algea growth?

LPS typically come from more nutrient rich waters and are usually more sensitive to significant drops or quick drops in nutrient levels - which the salt mix may have induced. If no3 and po4 aren't elevated (and you don't have lots of algea growth which can disguise excessive nutrients), you might try feeding more fish food or consider dosing an AA supplement and see if it makes a difference. Another thought would be decreasing the amount of bioactif salt you use by cutting it with another type of salt. The draw back with this salt mix (as previously mentioned) is that the organics that are dosed is a fixed amount and can't be adjusted by any means other than the amount of water changes done or by mixing it with another salt mix.

Jeremy
 
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Receding tissue and bleaching sounds more like how corals will react when nutrients are driven too low or removed too fast or if nutirents are very high. Have you tested no3 and po4 lately?? Do you have much nuisnsce algea growth?

LPS typically come from more nutrient rich waters and are usually more sensitive to significant drops or quick drops in nutrient levels - which the salt mix may have induced. If no3 and po4 aren't elevated (and you don't have lots of algea growth which can disguise excessive nutrients), you might try feeding more fish food or consider dosing an AA supplement and see if it makes a difference. Another thought would be decreasing the amount of bioactif salt you use by cutting it with another type of salt. The draw back with this salt mix (as previously mentioned) is that the organics that are dosed is a fixed amount and can't be adjusted by any means other than the amount of water changes done or by mixing it with another salt mix.

NO3 is 0 on my test kit
PO4 is .04 on my hanna meter

Ive been doing 20 % weekly water changes.

This does make some sense. I just took off my pura lock phoshate remover that was in a canister. I did have higher phosphates before. I thought that maybe the actual resin was poisoning my system. My problem is that even new chalices that were introduced as recently as 5 days ago are doing this.

The phosphate was driven down quickly. Should I do a large water change with a diff salt ?

Jeremy
 
NO3 is 0 on my test kit
PO4 is .04 on my hanna meter

Ive been doing 20 % weekly water changes.

This does make some sense. I just took off my pura lock phoshate remover that was in a canister. I did have higher phosphates before. I thought that maybe the actual resin was poisoning my system. My problem is that even new chalices that were introduced as recently as 5 days ago are doing this.

The phosphate was driven down quickly. Should I do a large water change with a diff salt ?
 
just retested po4 and it came out .02

thats way too low right?


The purpose behind a ULNS or LNS is to have 0 phosphate. So no, .02 isn't too low at all. It just depends on how quick it dropped to that level.

You may also be having issues with PAR shock. Some people have reported clearer water with this salt and that would mean more light is reaching the corals.

Go feed your tank some food and let nature work for a day or two. Then possibly dose some Amino Acids and see if that helps.
 
The purpose behind a ULNS or LNS is to have 0 phosphate. So no, .02 isn't too low at all. It just depends on how quick it dropped to that level.

You may also be having issues with PAR shock. Some people have reported clearer water with this salt and that would mean more light is reaching the corals.

Go feed your tank some food and let nature work for a day or two. Then possibly dose some Amino Acids and see if that helps.

Yeah... im not knocking the salt at all. if anything this shows that it does what they state its supposed to do. I guess its not a good salt for someone who is keeping LPS with no fish and small feedings. But we will see what happens in the next couple days... U dont think a water change would help?

Also, my phosphate dropped very quickly....
 
Yeah... im not knocking the salt at all. if anything this shows that it does what they state its supposed to do. I guess its not a good salt for someone who is keeping LPS with no fish and small feedings. But we will see what happens in the next couple days... U dont think a water change would help?

Also, my phosphate dropped very quickly....

I agree with rtparty that clearer water can significantly increase light penetration and cause bleaching in corals, but I don't think you reported bleaching (only tissue loss).

How quickly did your po4 drop?? What were the readings and what was the timeframe?

The two possible problems I indicated (dropping nutrients too fast and having excessive nutrients) can be two of a few hundred problems that can induce coral stress exhibiting as tissue loss and coral death. With undetectable nitrate and a po4 of 0.02 then excessive nutrients isn't an issue (unless you have a massive amount of algae growing which can mask that actual amounts of nutrients present).

Can you give me a timeframe in which you started using the bioactif salt, started using the phosphate binder, and when you started seeing the tissue loss and coral stress?? Sometimes phosphate removers (GFO) can be too aggressive and cause coral stress. Are there any other significant changes you made since starting bioactif salt - change in feeding routine, dosing any other supplements, adding any other animals, etc....????

The coral stress and tissue loss may or may not be related to the bioactif salt. The organics in the bioactif salt may be contributing the root problem that is occurring or they may actually be the root problem. Tough to tell unless we work through this a bit further.

A common theory around dosing organic carbon sources is that it can cause abnormality in the growth rate of corals symbiotic bacteria. Hans hasn't clearly indicated that the organics that are contained in his salt mix are a carbon source but it sounds like that is what many people (including myself) have assumed.

Two very memorable times in which I had significant coral stress (and some coral death) was when I was dosing organic substances. One instance was when I was using the zeovit products and had been dosing too much of the carbon source. Not catching the signs and symptoms quick enough, because I was new to carbon source dosing, I ended up having many SPS and a few LPS corals (coincidently two chalices included) bleach and die. Once the carbon source dosing was backed down, the remaining living (but bleached and stressed) corals recovered. The second instance was when I was experimenting with amino acid dosing. I was using aspartic acid and after seeing initial positive results I decided to ramp up the dosing. Making dosing changes too quickly and with less than ideal caution, I ended up having very similar results as to when I dosed too much of the zeovit carbon source. Many corals bleached and a few died. Some corals also had tissue recession without bleaching. Once the aspartic acid dosing was stopped the tank slowly returned back to normal. I don't know if aspartic acid provides any significant amounts of carbon and I was under the impression that when dosing AA's the effect of overdose would be increased nitrates and increased algea growth. In both my examples, the issue was clearly related to the organic sources being dosed. Since we haven't the ability to measure the thousands of types of organics present in our tanks and we don't know exactly what organics are contained in bioactif salt, it seems quite logical to me that using the salt can cause imbalances in organic levels and cause negative consequences through various metabolic processes that occur in a reef environment. Since every tank is different and every situation is very different, it is often very tough to pinpoint the exact mechanism of action occuring that causes the coral stress and illness at times.

Making changes one at a time can help narrow down the issue at hand. If the coral stress began after starting the phosphate binder then I'd suggest removing the phosphate binder and monitoring results. If it started shortly after using bioactif salt then maybe resort to using your old salt mix for a month or two and observe the reaction.

I wouldn't recommend making any significant changes while corals are already stressed until you can more clealy identify the problem at hand. Sometimes we assume too quickly that the problem is factor X so we make a change to factor X when in reality (but unknown yet) the problem is factor Y. Now in making a change to factor X we could possibly induce coral stress from that change and we now have coral stress caused by factor X and factor Y.

Unless you have clear indication for it (noticing the coral stress shortly after starting bioactif would be a clear enough indication for me), I wouldn't make any big water changes but merely switch over to your normal salt mix (if your suspicious of the bioactif) and continue your normal water change routine. Because two salt mixes can contain drastically different amounts of elemental concentrations, making a big water change with a different salt mix can cause additional stress to the corals from the resulting elemental shift. If corals are bleaching then you may want to consider moving them lower in the tank to prevent further damage from the lighting while they have limited light protection, however I don't believe you indicated you noticed any bleaching.

Jeremy
 
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Jeremy,

Thanks a million for your very informative post. I appreciate it very much.

I started using bioactif about 3 months ago.... At first there wasn't an issue. Things actualy looked great. The more water changes that went by the more things started to look less colorful/more pale. Then about three weeks ago I got my water tested and my LFS said i had very high phosphate of around 1.0. I added a triple dose of the phosphate resin as reccommended by the LFS and a triple dose of carbon. My phosphate dropped to .04 in about 4 days. Im starting to realize that all of these steps are making the light penetration of my T5s much stronger. I have actually lost a couple chalices due to total bleaching. There is tissue recession on a few others. Even my higher light loving chalices are getting more pale.

Yes, I do have some algae in my tank but not alot especially considering i dont have any algae grazers. This morning I took out the carbon and phosphate binder. So, basically i am running nothing as far as media goes. I fed the tank a decent amount of food and dosed aminos... After a few hours the phosphate is still .02 on my hanna meter.

I was performing 20% water changes every week. This now appears to me to be like overdosing on carbon sources. I guess i did alot of things that were bad. I am just trying to get back to a stable tank and have no need for the bioactif salt. Do you think I shold throw the carbon and GFO back on? Ive raised my lights slowly over the past week.... They are now 14" over the tank. My photoperiod is also down from 8 hours to 7. So frustrating...
 
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