Tropic Marine BIO-ACTIF Salt?

I really don't think it's the salt causing the problems - you may be making too many changes, too fast. Sounds like you had a phosphate spike, and you might still be reeling from the effects of that (and the rapid lowering of phosphate w/ the GFO). If anything, I'd stick to a similar salt such as TM Pro, but if you do use something else I'd go slow with water changes unless you're sure there is something terribly amiss with the water. As others have mentioned, could be your system adjusting to the increased biological activity due to the addition of the carbon source in the Bio Actif. Nothing in our tanks happens quickly (except the bad things).
 
Las

How did your LFS test your po4?? Just questioning the legitimacy of the original test. If the LFS test was incorrect, then adding 3X the GFO and 3X the GAC may have stripped vital nutrients necessary for the corals health (resulting in common stress reactions like bleaching and tissue recession). Sometimes systems with delicate SPS, the GFO can be too agressive and strip nutrients too much resulting in stress and illness. I've not heard that occur as commonly to LPS (I believe they are more adaptable to changing nutrient levels), but as I said before, often LPS come from waters which are more nutrient rich possibly making them sensitive to very quick drops in nutrient levels.

In regards to the salt mix, I believe your observation of seeing loss of coral coloration and seemingly stressed reactions says enough to indicate your tank isn't reacting well to the mix. It is possible that the organics in the mix are facilitating biological processes to lower total DOC's and POM in the water thus making your water far more clear and making the light far more intense than your corals had been used to. Certainly a possibility and if that truly is the problem then your corals will react positively by raising the light and they will likely eventually adapt to the change in light and resume a more natural coloration. I would assume that after several months the corals would have adapted by now (if increased light penetration is the problem).

Personally, I think it sounds like your tank is reacting to a very quick drop in nutrients. The bioactif salt could have been very slowly removing necessary nutrients (dissolved organics), thus the slow change to pale coloration and signs of stress. Adding the large amount of GFO and GAC simply added to the problem already at hand. Just my opinion.

Pale coloration is commonly a sign of corals being in too intense of light (or not properly photoadapted) "or" being in conditions which are very nutrient poor (too limited in nutrients for the corals proper health and coloration).

If I were in your situation I wouldn't be too quick to change your salt mix to something completely different. To find the most appropriate salt mix I try to choose a mix that already matches the tanks water parameters your maintaining. For example: If your alk has been steady at 8.0 dkh then I wouldn't suddenly switch to Reef Crystals becuase the alk commonly tests out at 13+ dkh. You can find a whole list of salt mixes and their common ca, mag, and alk levels in the first page of this thread.

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1287118

By choosing a salt mix that already matches your waters target parameters you will limit any stress from elemental fluctutations from your water changes (I personally believe alk is BY FAR more important to match than ca or mag). If you agree with my theory that your corals are reacting to low nutrient conditions, then continuing to use bioactif salt would be contraindicated as it seems to promote bacterial prolifertation which assists in lowering DOC's (again, that's just a theory based on a common observation from people using the salt).

I would go back to using your normal amount of carbon which will absorb any toxins released by any stressed or dying corals. I'd remove the GFO entirely and continue to monitor po4 levels. If po4 increases then add GFO slowly (starting with maybe half the recommended dose). I wouldn't add any large amounts of AA's. Small doses may be OK but don't dose too much. Nothing is good in high amounts in a reef tank. A gentle and delicate equilibrium of various processes (filtration, supplemention, light pattern and intensity, etc...) is what makes most tanks successful and the concentrated supplements available to us can turn equilibrium upside down and cause a domino effect of problems. Small amounts of AA's may help replenish "some" vital nutrients, however the corals need much more than AA's to maintain normal health. All of the vital nutrients and most trace elements can be restored by feeding more high quality fish food to your fish or providing a variety of zooplankton for the corals.

I agree entirely that all changes should be done very slowly - including changing feeding routines. Eric Borneman has a great series of articles that provide a good explanation of how a tank has a mini cycle with each chage we make. Any little change we make requires the tank and it's inhabitants to change and adapt in one way or another (sometimes a change we are aiming for and sometimes not).

http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2002-07/eb/index.php

Jeremy
 
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So I just finished off two of the smaller boxes and then moved on to a bucket as I was pretty satisfied with the results. Water was clear and corals seemed happy. I'm on water change #3 with the bucket and have been struggling with some funky brown slimey/hairy algae for the last 3 weeks. No change in feeding schedule or amount so I'm a bit puzzled.

I know there are way too many variables to say what it might be fueling my issue but thought I would post here to see if others might have seen the same. or other bacterial/algae blooms I run a pretty clean tank (or so I thought) so am wondering if the carbon source in this salt is having some unwanted consequences.
 
Do you guys notice that the salt never mixes "completely clear?" I'm wondering if this has to do with whatever additives are in the salt. Either way, I seem to be having good results, and it's not a residue I see in the bucket, just like undissolved substances that stay in suspension.

Hope that made sense....
 
Does anybody notice a strange smell with the Bio activ? I mix mine in a 44 gallon Brute can and make 40 gallons at a time I run a Mag 7 to mix and shoot it straight up in the container so have a very active churning of the water mix. I put the lid on and when I open it up theres a almost "musty"
smell? Very clear and no residue just the smell?? I use 0 TDS RO/DI water and have never smelled it with TM Pro or the TM Reef salt just the BIO.
Dave
 
I notice an undissolved whitish-clear material in the first hour or so, after the salts have dissolved. I once even scooped some of it up into a fish net - looked kind of like a paste. But after a few hours of mixing (maybe a half day) everything seems to have gone into solution and the water is crystal clear. Never noticed a smell - perhaps you have some biofilm in your mixing container which is starting to break down the carbon source. Run your finger on the wall of the container, see if there is a slime.
 
i just finished my second bucket of this stuff, and while my corals seem to have a very positive response over the last 6 months, my sw mixing container is pretty nasty. I think i'm going to continue using it, but when we start our next reef project in may, I don't think we will still use it, as we will be using biopellets as well. I think this salt is really for people that don't have well setup tanks already and want a small scale system for introducing carbon sources of some sort.
 
anyone test this stuff on a brand new tank? good or bad?

i'm setting up a 60g and wondering if I should spend the extra $$ on this... any suggestions are appreciated :)
 
I have just started using this on my tank. I have noticed cloudiness in the salt even after 1 full day of mixing. The cloudiness seems to go away pretty quickly in my display when I do awater change, but I notice the slight cloudiness right after I'm done (10%). This odes not concern me too much, but...

I had a very interesting experience this weekend. I picked up a few SPS frags and setup my QT tank. I use a JBJ nano cube, and I have Media in my sump for when I do this so I have some sort of active filtration base when I plop things in the tank. So I filled this up with the Salt, along with the pre-seeded standard ceramics, carbon, and sponge material. I two hour drip-acclimated the corals, and when I added them to the tank within a few hours one of my frags started to RTN. The tissue was literally exploding off from the new growth areas. I grabbed the frags from the QT and put them in my display as I was not about to watch 160 bucks RTN up in smoke. I left the QT running and it took more than 48 hours for the cloudiness to go away.

Is it possible that this salt needs a mature system to work properly? I have only one salt mixing container, so I need flexibility. I suppose it could have been something else, but there really were not a lot of variables in this scenario. I will probably switch back to TM Pro when this bucket is over.
 
I have also notice the cloudiness after my 10% bi-monthly water change. It last for about an hour and the display is all clear afterwards. I have been using this particular salt for about 3 months now and have not experienced any issues afterwards. I will also probably go back to TM Pro after this bucket since I have no pros and no cons except for the extra cost. Wow a two-hour coral acclamation.
 
I'm anal I suppose. I have an acclimation setup with a small pump, heater, airstone, etc... and temp acclimate and slow drip for two hours regardless of what I am acclimating. Lugols at the end for corals then into the tank...
 
Anyone have thoughts or experience using this salt with a fuge or prodibio? Just curious what would be optimal...

I have been running Prodibio with it for some time now. I love the results, although I have no way of knowing how much is one over the other. Although I do not find any significant negatives from the combination, I am consevative with the Prodibio and liberal with the Bio-activ (25% every week for the first 6 months or so and now 25% every other week).

The tank is less than a year old. Here is a few shots about a month ago.

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anyone test this stuff on a brand new tank? good or bad?

i'm setting up a 60g and wondering if I should spend the extra $$ on this... any suggestions are appreciated :)

I started with this salt when I first set up the tank. It is only a 70, so it wasn't too costly, but I can't imagine using this salt on a large tank, especially with my water change schedule!:hmm3:
 
I just switched to this salt and did notice cleaner water with a significant increase in my skimmate. But since then I have a breakout of red slime algae allover the tank. I have changed back to tropic Marin pro. Any suggestion what I should do to get rid of the red slime algae. I am worried it will take over my tank. Does it mean I will not be able to use this salt ?
 
I just switched to this salt and did notice cleaner water with a significant increase in my skimmate. But since then I have a breakout of red slime algae allover the tank. I have changed back to tropic Marin pro. Any suggestion what I should do to get rid of the red slime algae. I am worried it will take over my tank. Does it mean I will not be able to use this salt ?

Cyanobacteria (red slime algae) growth will often increase when a source or organic carbon is provided to the tank. Since that's exactly what this salt does, your observations don't surprise me. Once dissolved organic carbon levels are decreased (through filtration and bacterial uptake) then the cyano should subside. Increasing flow in the area where it is growing will also help.

Best of luck to you.

Jeremy
 
Cyanobacteria (red slime algae) growth will often increase when a source or organic carbon is provided to the tank. Since that's exactly what this salt does, your observations don't surprise me. Once dissolved organic carbon levels are decreased (through filtration and bacterial uptake) then the cyano should subside. Increasing flow in the area where it is growing will also help.

Best of luck to you.

Jeremy

Jeremy

Thanks for the info

What will I have to do to improve filtration and bacterial uptake. I already have a heavy duty skimmer bubble king 300. Any suggestion? Does it mean I cannot use this salt in my tank as i will have Cyanobacteria with the carbon dosing?
 
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Just an update. Since I stopped the bioactif and did frequent water changes the Cyanobacteria has not gotten worse but not a whole lot better. Does anyone think this salt will not bean option down the road? I have two buckets of it and was thinking of offloading them if that is the case.
 
I've been using TM Bio Actif since March/April and have really noticed improved colouration in my SPS corals, my Hydnophora colony which I have had for 3 years has gone from a dull/pale green to an intense fluorescent green! So I am really happy with what I have seen so far.
 
I found that my ORP dropped drastically (fron 369 to 250) from an 18% W.C. using the Bio Actif. A week later (today) I did another 10% and the ORP dropped from 260 to 230.
Randy mentioned that this may be due to some chemistry I am sure not to understand, but I am wondering if others are experiencing similar results.
Also, should I be concerned that It goes so low and seems to stay there?

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Hmmm, looking at this graph, I notice that the ORP although lower does not seem to fluctuate with the PH swings as much as it used to.
 
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