TTM or Cupramine?

Chutton47

New member
What ways do you all prefer to use to treat Ich? I started using the tank transfer method this morning but I am worried my fish will get even more stressed using it. Or since I know that the fish are infected should I treat with Cupramine? Any suggestions?
 
with copper, you have to make absolutely sure that the level remains the same or it won't do you any good. in other words, when you do a water change, you will have to add more copper med to make up for what you took out.

i much prefer ttm. i have done this with all new fish i have added over the past few months and it's worked wonderfully and i haven't had a single fish suffer much, if any, stress.
 
I would argue that netting and transferring a fish is stressful. So I would argue that the fish were stressed multiple times. That's why I personally use cupramine. Never had any problems, and it's ridiculously easy to keep the level correct, just like salinity. If you can keep salinity consistent when doing a water change, keeping cupramine consistent is the same.
 
Cupramine is also effective at lower dosages. IIRC .3 is the minimum effective dose. I also ramp up over a few days, not two like it says in the instructions.
 
I would argue that netting and transferring a fish is stressful.

you never would have known it with my fish. i don't use a net, i use a breeder box (made of fine mesh material). lower the water level, fish swims into breeder box, is scooped up and turned loose in the next tank. every single time i used this method, each fish ate immediately and always swam out in the open, no hiding.
 
I have performed the TTM 3 times total now on my current livestock. I use a clear Tupperware to scoop the fish out, take him out of that container into the awaiting tank and thats that. They might seemed stressed for about a minute or so, but like Nina (who I believe gave me great advice when I asked about TTM) the fish are out, active and eating within a few minutes. Heck it was almost like my clownfish knew when the TTM was happening, they swam right into the tupperwear as I put it in the water.

Works good to as I treat with PraziPro on the 2nd and 4th transfers. No worry of interacting medications or anything like that. Just clean the tank and equipment and let it dry for the 3 days and 12 days goes by quick.
 
could you please explain your process for TTM, I have a 180 reef tank SPS dominant, with a pretty bad out break of ick.
Fish:
pair of Spot Breasted angels (showing some signs)
1 Bellus Angel female (showing some signs)
1 Lamarck's angel (showing some signs)
2 Wantanabei angels (showing some signs)
1 Scopas Tang (not showing signs)
1 Fame angel (not showing signs)
3 Ocellaris clowns (not showing signs)
1 Diamond goby (fine)
1 Labout's wrasse (not doing well...)
CUC, peppermint and cleaner shrimp.

could use some advice....debating what to do for this....
 
could you please explain your process for TTM, I have a 180 reef tank SPS dominant, with a pretty bad out break of ick.
Fish:
pair of Spot Breasted angels (showing some signs)
1 Bellus Angel female (showing some signs)
1 Lamarck's angel (showing some signs)
2 Wantanabei angels (showing some signs)
1 Scopas Tang (not showing signs)
1 Fame angel (not showing signs)
3 Ocellaris clowns (not showing signs)
1 Diamond goby (fine)
1 Labout's wrasse (not doing well...)
CUC, peppermint and cleaner shrimp.

could use some advice....debating what to do for this....
This thread has the information you need: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1996525
 
you never would have known it with my fish. i don't use a net, i use a breeder box (made of fine mesh material). lower the water level, fish swims into breeder box, is scooped up and turned loose in the next tank. every single time i used this method, each fish ate immediately and always swam out in the open, no hiding.

+1

I've used TTM on every single one of my fish, and none has exhibited signs of chronic stress after each capture and release.
 
could you please explain your process for TTM, I have a 180 reef tank SPS dominant, with a pretty bad out break of ick.
Fish:
pair of Spot Breasted angels (showing some signs)
1 Bellus Angel female (showing some signs)
1 Lamarck's angel (showing some signs)
2 Wantanabei angels (showing some signs)
1 Scopas Tang (not showing signs)
1 Fame angel (not showing signs)
3 Ocellaris clowns (not showing signs)
1 Diamond goby (fine)
1 Labout's wrasse (not doing well...)
CUC, peppermint and cleaner shrimp.

could use some advice....debating what to do for this....

With this many fish TTM is not the most practical.
I personally would use hyposalinity in a separate hospital tank.
The other alternative would be Chloroquine Phosphate (CP), of course also in a separate HT. Though the wrasse may not do well with it.
 
you never would have known it with my fish. i don't use a net, i use a breeder box (made of fine mesh material). lower the water level, fish swims into breeder box, is scooped up and turned loose in the next tank. every single time i used this method, each fish ate immediately and always swam out in the open, no hiding.

+1. The TTM is super easy to implement. The nice part is that you can match the bag water with the 1st tank transfer...you just have to float for temp, and once you open the bag.....add a small amount of water to adjust ph, and you are good to go.

Through evaporation, by the time you reach your 4th tank transfer, the SG level will pretty much match your QT levels.

I drain my tank down to a few inches....the fish has no idea. Then i use a squared off pasta scooper that fits exactly in my 10g tank, scoop the fish, and move him over to the next tank. I will say that all of my fish showed no signs of stress.
 
If the question is TTM OR Cupramine/copper then thats easy, TTM without question.

+1

Though with his amount of fish it may be tough or labor intensive to execute because he will need big tanks. The only alternative is to do the fish in batches, starting with the most severe.
Though even with that he would need at least 3 tanks: 2 smaller for TTM and one larger to hold the fish that finished TTM.
In this case I might rather recommend CP treatment in a large HT that can later also function as a holding tank during the fallow period.
If CP is used in a sterilized hospital tank the treatment period can be significantly shortened which should reduce the risk of losses that have been reported with longer exposure inside fish only display tanks.
 
+1

Though with his amount of fish it may be tough or labor intensive to execute because he will need big tanks. The only alternative is to do the fish in batches, starting with the most severe.
Though even with that he would need at least 3 tanks: 2 smaller for TTM and one larger to hold the fish that finished TTM.
In this case I might rather recommend CP treatment in a large HT that can later also function as a holding tank during the fallow period.
If CP is used in a sterilized hospital tank the treatment period can be significantly shortened which should reduce the risk of losses that have been reported with longer exposure inside fish only display tanks.

I agree and there are reports of those using CP for 10 days curing ich and not having another outbreak. Typically its best to start with TTM with each fish thats added so your only doing one or two at a time.
 
Right now the focus should be on saving the fish, not eradicating the parasite.
I think CP can do trick if you dose it in a clean HT and then add the fish.
This way protomonts should die after leaving the fish and not be able to encyst.
After 10 days I would basically do one Transfer by cleaning and sterilizing the tank and then just observe the fish.

If you want to be extra sure you got your system ich free you can TTM the fish in small groups when returning them to the DT after the fallow period.
 
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