Tubbs blue dieing off every day

[no1bubba]

7 years old colony as big as a fist started dieing daily. It is now half gone Can any one tell me how to help
Calc. 445. Alk. 4.48 meq. 12.5 dkh
Sal. 1.026. Temp. 80. Ph 7. Mag 1045 raising it daily. Ammonia. 0
Hardness kh 80

I also have a green zoa that was once beautiful
It is now slowly dieing in the same way
Everything else in tank is great
Please tell me what I need to do to save what little I have left

 

[mav3rick478]

Alk seems high, should be between 2.8 - 3.4Meq/L or 7.8 - 9.5 dKH, PH is low should be 8.1-8.4, and I see you're already raising your Mag.

Sent from my SM-N915V using Tapatalk

 

[no1bubba]

Changing water today what do I need to do to lower alk and how to raise ph and it may not that bad because I only had a dip stick but bought salifert PG tester.

 

[jayball]

Changing water today what do I need to do to lower alk and how to raise ph and it may not that bad because I only had a dip stick but bought salifert PG tester.

It is best to just let the ALK fall naturally, it is not that far off. For the PH try opening a window to purge some CO2 from the house and increase surface agitation. I suspect a testing error for that anyway, at 12DKH ALK it is almost impossible to have a PH of 7. What ever you do do not use a PH buffer, it will spike your ALK into a dangerous zone.

Do some inspecting at night, a slow die off of a zoa colony that has been doing great for years tells me it may be a pest. (Nudi's or other zoa specific preditors that were introduced or something like a crab that has outgrown its diet and started supplimenting with zoas... that sort of thing)

 

[Scythanith]

Alk & pH seems quite high and Mg seems low. Start looking for tiny pests as well, they can be sneaky.

 

[JohnnyHildo]

Alk & pH seems quite high and Mg seems low. Start looking for tiny pests as well, they can be sneaky.

alk is high, ph & mg are low (seems like most tanks sit on average at 8-8.5 for ph)
ps. bayside corals rocks! :thumbsup:

 

[cloak]

I agree with the above. Some of your parameters are "off" so to say.

http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-05/rhf/index.htm

http://www.coralpedia.com/index.php?module=Gallery2&g2_itemId=384

 

[no1bubba]

Bugs. Not spaghetti worms. They are bugs. I can't get this iPad to send pics but if someone can give me their email address I can send them that way.

 

[jayball]

Bugs. Not spaghetti worms. They are bugs. I can't get this iPad to send pics but if someone can give me their email address I can send them that way.

get the photobucket app on your Ipad and host them there. There will be a link in photobucket to post them here.

That is the best way to do it imo.

 

[aj625]

maybe zoapox?

 

[dentdominator]

I'm also guessing as discussed above it may be a pest that was introduced. When I kept my tank I would always write down what and when I added corals or fish. Just so I would be able to put a time frame if something was to go south. Good luck and see if you can pull out and inspect your zoas a little closer with a magnifying glass etc.

 

[blasterman789]

Ive diagnosed melting zoa syndrome for friends, and this might be another case. Typically it affects deep water variety like purple hornets, tubbs blue, etc. I am increasingly convinced the problem is caused by similiar conditions that cause xenia to melt. Mainly pH that isnt as high as it seems due to wonky dkh levels and too much carbonic acid. I suggest immediate water changes, get your nitrate down (zoas like high nutrient levels but not the corresponding acid levels). Ive also had better luck with fussier zoas keeping elevated mag levels. High dkh levels only work if its being used by corals. High dkh levels that just sit arent good for corals, IMO.