Tunze Calcium Dispenser Kit 68 Question

[mcarroll]

Roger/Everyone:

My setup is a 36" 38 gallon display over a 36" 30 gallon sump - both standard American/black trim glass tanks.

The water level in the display is about 1" (25mm) from the top rim of the tank. The set water level in sump is about 8.25" (210mm) from the rim of the sump while running - about 7.75" (197mm) with the return pump idle. From what I can tell I need to consider the mounting of both sensors in the sump, as well as the output tubing above the display tank. (Correct?)

Can you confirm which (if any) extra parts I'll need to make a complete Dispenser Kit 68 work for me, given the tank trim, the distance to the water surface of my sump as well as any other necessary considerations?

Further, given the warnings in the manual against placement near magnets, may I assume that precludes magnetic mounting of the sensors themselves? I'm not 100% clear on this.


Thanks in advance!

-Matt

 

[smatter]

You shouldn't need anything for your installation. The hardware it comes with will allow you to mount it in your standard aquarium sump. Attaching the holder rails with silicone is an option too for a more permanent mount. I have magnetically mounted the sensors before, but you have to make sure the float sensor is a few inches away from the magnet. The Nano magnets work well attached to the bottom of the rail, with the optical sensor mounted close to the magnet as it is unaffected by the magnet. Mount the float at the top of the rail. This is the simple one rail solution for sump installation.

 

[mcarroll]

Good to hear. After seeing the extension rails I thought even if I don't get them that I might raise the system water level another inch (25mm) or so to accommodate the standard rails. I'd like to have a non-permanent mount if possible, so might think a little more about raising the sump level.

I also wondered about fastening onto the "standard" american style rims on my tanks, so it's very good to know the nano magnets are a good option. If I can't make the hang-on mount work for some reason, I'll just get a magnet.

 

[mcarroll]

Another question: Is anyone running a parallel set of calcium chambers for higher dosing levels as suggested in the manual?

I'd never heard that suggested anywhere before and seemed like a "well duh, yeah!" after reading it.

Seems like this product could cover a lot of dosing range by going parallel before one would have to consider jumping to a full blown calcuim reactor w/CO2. (Presuming of course one has enough evaporation to enable the flow levels....most open top configs should do it.)

Thanks
--Matt

 

[smatter]

I don't think the pump has enough juice for two reactors. By the time the flow reaches the second reactor I don't think it would have enough power to stir the kalk. My tank is about the same size as yours and one reactor keeps up with my calcium demands. I add four tsp. per week. The tank is mainly SPS corals. Aside from occasional water changes, I don't dose anything else.

 

[mcarroll]

Maybe kicking the power supply into higher gear would be required, but good to hear that I won't likely need more. Mainly SPS is what I have planned for this tank.

 

[rvitko]

Kalkwasser can be dosed in only two levels of concentration- saturated, which is as much as can be dissolved in the water, or a slurry, a milky suspension of solids. You can add a lot of powder to the reactor and get a slurry but this is risky, the tubes will plug and you could OD the tank and get the proverbial snow storm of precipitating calcium, you have to be very careful when working with a slurry. The water cannot hold any more than will dissolve and when used as recommended you get a saturated solution. Bigger units with stirrers will deliver a slurry. The main purpose of the reactor is to shield the mixed kalk from the CO2 in the air which weakens the solution. You could try the reef chemistry forum for some tips, I know for a while people were adding vinegar to the top off water as the weak acid raised the saturation point for the kalk. Not sure if this was just a fad that fizzled for some reason or if this is still practiced.

As far as accesories, you may need a 3000.244 kit to mount the hose to the tank trim. If the sump as the thinner molded trim of most small tanks you won't need any other accesories. If it has the wider trim of large US tanks like AGA or Oceanic you will need a total of 3 3000.244 unless you use the silicon attachment for the the sump rails.

 

[smatter]

I have been considering using calcium oxide, Warner's Kalkwasser Plus to be exact, to avoid the airborne qualities of hydroxide. I too lazy to put on a mask and holding my breath is getting old. I've breathed so much in over the years it's probably too late anyway! From what I understand it is a bit more soluble, but it does create some heat. Can the dispenser handle the heat or should I hydrate it in a beaker first?

 

[rvitko]

I am not sure, I would suppose it probably gets quite hot, it may crack the plastic over time (crazing). It may be best to pre mix it. I would be careful, I understand what you are saying but when I look at my past exposure to chemicals, especially asbestos and petro chemicals from cars, not to mention I smoked for over 10 years. I think calcium oxide is pretty nasty stuff so I would be careful.

 

[smatter]

If I don't blow myself up I'll let you know how it works out.