Skydancer, In my case I had to do the WFM before I could do the TSM, because the stopper material was made of the cut off piece from my FBM.
But you were right, if the stopper is too far from the prop the prop may not even reach it then it will not work. The solution is do what dhnguyen suggested, drill a hole near the prop and stick some stopper piece in.
I want to caution everyone though I have not had a chance to try it, but I remember the reason my modded 6025 stopped self-correction was because most the time the prop was spinning in reverse, the prop unit shot out some but not all the way so the magnetic field was never lost, and the prop stayed in the reverse flow. It had nothing to do with the length of the nozzle though, as dhnguyen was trying to explain, because I had nothing in front of the prop to stop it from shooting out more, just that it stoppd on its own. And I had tried to explain why so in a previous post.
My suggestion is DO NOT do the stopper mod unless you have to, because as dhnguyen said, there will always be this clicking noise when the prop hits the stopper.
Without the stopper, the pump still makes a little clicking noise at startup, but not nearly as bad since the noise simply is from the prop unit being pushed into the hole hitting the end of the hole.
And if you must try dhnguyen's MJMOd stopper method, I would do a simple test first. You can use a piece of weed whacker cable and stick it in front of the prop through one of the slots you cut for the FBM, and see if it will do the trick reliably. I only fear there was something to it that Tunze did not do the MJMod type of stopper for 6045.
My stopper is very much the same concept as the Tunze 6045 stopper which is why I was confident enough and went ahead with the mod, of course trying to save you from turning blue was another consideration
