Tunze nano mod

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10555581#post10555581 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by mr pink floyd
sky, im glad to hear the pumps are still working for you, and cant believe how much attention this threads gotten

mike,

this is an amazing thread for several reasons...

the initial you discovering of modifying a great product like tunze to perform better was near revolutionary because a lot of us assume that tunze has done their homework and their stuff is tweaked and ready to go for us reef nuts. well, this reef nut anyway...

then jacmyoung takes your idea and streamlines it into what we have today.

the mods are so incredibly easy that a futz like me can easily do it. while i like diy...i was never a fan of the mj mods that seem to rule the roost.

so, not only did modifying the 6025 literally double the flow with a 5 minute dremel job...it kept the aesthetics that i like much much much more than the mj mods.

congrats to all who made this thread a great help to those who love their modded 6025's!:D:D:D
 
On a side note, now that my controller is capable of 0% to 100% pulsing.[/B]

jacmyoung- A few pages ago you post a bit about modding the single controller. I'm not sure that I saw what you finally ended up doing to get the low flow setting down to 0%. Can you post more info on what/how you did it?
 
Well, i moded my 6025 & everyone is right this is the easiest, quickest best mod out there. I didnt cut the outside tube off just removed the inside flanging & added 4 slots to the underside & its amazing. It looks like almost double the flow without doing any tests yet.
 
Well, I can't keep up with the mod names, but I bought a 6025 a couple of weeks back and I realized the the inside portion was already cut out by the guy who I got it from (kappaknight). I since then got 2 other 6025 and have been happy with them.

But anyways, I decided to mod the one that had already been started on a little further so I cut the slots at the bottom like someone suggested many, many pages ago (took me a while to read this thread and just skimmed through the last 10 pages or so since there was a lot of BS :D ).

Well, then I also went ahead and cut every other "grid/rim" all around the cap portion of pump, if that makes sense. Has anyone here tried that? Now, I've got this pump as the only one in my 25G frag tank and it's enough by itself!!!

Not sure how much more as far as GPH it is pushing (I'd like to know how I can measure that, by the way) but it's probably close to 3 times more than what it was before.

So, anyways, thanks for all the help everyone that put thought and time into these mods! We DIYers, even the conservative ones like me, appreciate it! ;)
 
The most effective mod is the standard one, which gives you almost double the flow, any other added mods will only give marginal improvement, for example cutting slits on the underside will give you maybe 100 gph more flow max. Thinning out the grids isn't worth the trouble either IMO. It destroys the look of the pump.

For flow tests, I know it is a hassle to read the whole thread but detailed descriptions are all in there, if you are determined to do the flow tests yourself, the reading part is easy in comparison.

A few people asked me how to do the controller mod. I do not recommend it since the improvement (from 30% down to 15%) is not worth the trouble and you can not return the controller to its original condition after the mod, I had to cut out the knobs in order to open up the controller. I removed my controller mod right after the test and put it in regular use.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10709345#post10709345 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jacmyoung
The most effective mod is the standard one, which gives you almost double the flow, any other added mods will only give marginal improvement, for example cutting slits on the underside will give you maybe 100 gph more flow max. Thinning out the grids isn't worth the trouble either IMO. It destroys the look of the pump.

For flow tests, I know it is a hassle to read the whole thread but detailed descriptions are all in there, if you are determined to do the flow tests yourself, the reading part is easy in comparison.

A few people asked me how to do the controller mod. I do not recommend it since the improvement (from 30% down to 15%) is not worth the trouble and you can not return the controller to its original condition after the mod, I had to cut out the knobs in order to open up the controller. I removed my controller mod right after the test and put it in regular use.

which controller are your talking about a seio controller or a tunze single controller
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10709345#post10709345 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jacmyoung
Thinning out the grids isn't worth the trouble either IMO. It destroys the look of the pump.
I honestly think it looks better now! :D
 
Yes it's been done on the larger Tunze pumps as well.

You can also increase the flow significantly by cutting out every other slit on the 6100's shroud. I have always been of the opinion that the stock Tunze shrouds are way too restrictive anyway.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10717124#post10717124 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dhnguyen
You can also increase the flow significantly by cutting out every other slit on the 6100's shroud. I have always been of the opinion that the stock Tunze shrouds are way too restrictive anyway.
That's what I did on my nanostream. I believe it did increase the flow (since there's more water being pulled in. But I could be wrong, of course. ;)
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10717717#post10717717 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by bleedingthought
That's what I did on my nanostream. I believe it did increase the flow (since there's more water being pulled in. But I could be wrong, of course. ;)

i did it to two of mine months ago, not only does it increase flow they clogg less often.

i removed every thrd bar.
 
this darn thread.. lol. ok, I had to go home and mess with my 6025 tonight.. first I started by cleaning my koralias (#3 and #2) which were VERY dirty.. wow what a difference in flow.. then I decided what the heck, let's mod the 6025.. WOW.. 10 mins of snipping = oodles of unlocked flow potential... 10 more mins of aiming and checking xenia and GSP for over-flow and bingo. and I thought my flow was dialed in last night.. lol. not even close. :)
 
I have an older 6025 (from Nov. 2006) and a 6055.
Which mod can I do with the 6055 that works with the original prop?
And are there step by step instructions for the 6025 mods?
I inherited a free dremel set, but am not quite sure which of the accessories to use.
My 6025 doesn't have the little fish guard. Is that an essential part for the mod if I cut down the length of the shroud?

And where can I order a new shroud, in case I mess up the current one? :D

Also, I'm running a Tunze 6000. Is there anything I can do to increase the flow on that one? Different shroud? Cut out parts of the original shroud?
 
So after reading, I realize there really isn't any reason to upgrade to the 6045s. I already have two 6025s and I plan on trimming the inside outake area of these. I'd trim the intake strainers too, but I'm afraid that my cleaner gobies might get sucked in. Just doing this will increase the outflow to around 1000gph correct?

I also have two 6055 on a multicontroller. Whats the consensus on the best way to mod these? That kindof got hazy in the middle of the thread.
 
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