Tunze Osmolator 3155 doesn't work properly

[invertebrate]

I have new Tunze Osmolator 3155 top off system and I tried hooking it up this morning.

I put the optical sensor at the water level I wanted. But the pump turns on, turns off for a second, turns on, turns off for a second. It continues to add water even though the sensor is completely under water by this time. I tried getting some water out of the tank, so it was below the sensor, so that it could fill up to that point and shut off...but that didn't work either, it just keeps on pumping water in at these short intervals. It shuts off just for a couple seconds, but then pumps water in for like, 15-20 seconds. WAY overfilling it.

The float is supposed to be an EMERGENCY shut off, right? The cone shaped sensor is supposed to do both the on and off?

I have the sensor in my return pump chamber...the water in there is perfectly calm. I have the sensor and float mounted on separate holding devices, on a vertical pane.

I've already tried washing it in warm soapy water and rinsing, as well as swishing it around in the return chamber to try and get rid of any bubbles.

I could plug this thing in with the sensor below the water line, above the water line, or right where I want the water line, and it does this same thing every time. On and off until my chambers are over -filled and skimmer is overflowing. It's still running and the optical sensor is completely under water.

Please help with this ASAP.

 

[invertebrate]

update-I tried wiping the sensor down with vinegar but that did not help. There are no microbubbles in the chamber it is in. I took the Osmolater off the tank and set it up with buckets in the kitchen to see if something else has interfered with it working properly. Its only been down there about a half an hour, so I could be mistaken, but it seems to be working better.
While nothing is close to the sensor on the tank that could be the culprit, I do have my skimmer and powerheads on wireless remote on/off switches. The components for that are under the stand.
??

 

[TScripa]

Can't tell where your top off water is located. In the stand below the tank or somewhere else? Check to make sure your that the end of the top off tube is above the level of your fresh water reservoir. Otherwise it could keep filling your sump/tank due to siphoning.

 

[invertebrate]

Thanks Tony-
Reservoir is underneath the tank in the stand. Hose is going into the tank itself, and the end is out of the water. So going upward. The pump is running and the yellow light is on when this is occurring, so I think an issue with the sensor. I called the LFS I purchased from, and they said the optical sensor is coated with a food safe coating which can cause problems like this. I cleaned it with vinegar as instructed, that didn't help. They also said sometimes it takes a few days in the water for it to work properly, as the plastic and the coating tend to repel water.

Thanks for your help...
Kris

 

[TScripa]

Hopefully it will straighten out for you on its own. Mine did work fine right out of the box ans I have to say that they are awesome units once up and running.
Good luck - Tony

 

[invertebrate]

This is interesting, but it worked fine when I tried to run it in the kitchen away from the tank. I put it back at the tank and it messed up again. I unplugged the wireless remote sensors I have on the tank for the powerheads and skimmer, and now its fine (so far). I think the sensor was having an RFI conflict with these plug-in remote sensors.

 

[invertebrate]

spoke too soon....overfilled again tonight. same thing-turns on, off for a few, then on again over and over even though the water level is over the top of the sensor by then.

 

[shawnz28]

I am guessing it is interfernce from something like a ballast or a pump and the Osmolator control box. While the sensor is optical the switches in the control box are magnetic. Is the box mounted near anything that could give off a strong electrical field? Things like halide ballasts and external pumps etc... can cause this.

 

[invertebrate]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14663214#post14663214 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by shawnz28
I am guessing it is interfernce from something like a ballast or a pump and the Osmolator control box. While the sensor is optical the switches in the control box are magnetic. Is the box mounted near anything that could give off a strong electrical field? Things like halide ballasts and external pumps etc... can cause this.

The controller is mounted in the cabinet...on the side its on its only the ATO. Other side is all my electrical stuff, surge protector and all the plugs and timers. My mag-float is sitting under there, I'll move that. I do have a Koralia on the tank on the same side as the controller, but like 2-3 foot up. The mag float was a couple feet away too.

Maybe I'll move the controller as far from the tank as I can and see if that helps. ?? REALLY wanted to et this set up this weekend. My salinity is a mess thanks to the fresh water overload. Glad I don't have life in there yet.

 

[invertebrate]

Roger, more info for you

Roger, more info for you

I have noticed several times that the green light on my controller will flicker from time to time. Also I have seen both the green light and the yellow light be on at the same time, the pump is running to top off the tank in this situation.

I've moved everything in suspicion away from the tank. I've moved the controller to different locations within the cabinet and outside it also.

The ATO worked perfectly today from 9:00 am until about 3:00pm, then overfilled and hasn't worked properly since. So the problem is very inconsistent. I again washed the sensor in warm soapy water. No help.

Any ideas here? I'm getting really frustrated with an expensive product that has not worked out of the box. I've spent my entire weekend toying with it and have gone through 6 gallons of RO/DI.

Kris

 

[shawnz28]

Sorry I could not be more help but I am sure Roger will get you figured out and squared away. He does not post on weekends but should reply tomorrow morning or afternoon

 

[rvitko]

Hi Kris,

I responded to your email this morning. I think it is an electrical interference issue. Keep in mind that all cables and wires in these case act like antennas that transmit the interference. Even sharing a circuit can cause this issue. The biggest culprits are ballasts, any sort of magnet holder or cleaner within a foot or so of the controller could also cause this. If it worked in the kitchen, it has to be something at the tank.

 

[rvitko]

By the way it is normal for the green and yellow lights to appear simultaneously for up to 20 seconds. Once a fill is registered the green light comes on but the pump keeps running to do a small overfill to prevent the unit from rapidly cycling on and off.

 

[invertebrate]

What do you mean by sharing a circuit? That the controller is plugged into the surge protector with everything else? I would assume most people do it this way. I will move it to its own plug if that will help.

It did work in the kitchen for the half an hour that I tested it there. It also worked in the stand for like 6 hours yesterday before it overfilled.

There is another tank nearby with a small ballast, but its 5 or so feet away. Would that do it? Where can I put the ballast for this tanks light when it comes so that it won't cause problems?

All the magnets are more than a foot away.

I can't check my e-mail here at work so I'm sorry if you already explained all this in there.

So magnets affect the controller. Is there stuff that can affect the sensor directly?

 

[rvitko]

The sensor would only be affected by bubbles, the float switch is also affected by magnets. You are correct, most people plug everything into the same surge protector but I think you have a device which is causing electromagnetic interference, ballasts being the biggest culprit, even having them plugged into the same circuit can be a problem. The worst offenders are electronic ballasts for PC, T-5 and any other flourescent light, particularly cheap foreign made ones. Any sort of X-10 or remote control device sharing the same circuit could cause a problem as well. By sharing a circuit, I mean anything on the same circuit breaker. It basically utilizes all the wiring as an antenna to transmit the interference. I would try the osmolator without any lighting or wireless, X-10 type device plugged in in the room. Incandescent lights in the room are fine , the culprit is likely something on the tank. Once you find the source it will either have to be replaced, moved or plugged into a different circuit.

 

[invertebrate]

What is an X-10 device? Not sure what you are meaning there.

Thanks for your help. I'm out of fresh water and my LFS is closed today, so I won't have another crack at it until tomorrow night.

 

[rvitko]

If you have an Octopus or Neptune controller they sometime use a wireless switched socket, the technology is called X-10. Basically, it uses your home wiring as an antenna to send the signal to the socket to shut off or turn on.