Upgrade Time... 210 gallon Build

I'm doing similar with my sump. The display is going to drain through the rear wall to the fishroom, and into a 20 long with dual 1.5" overflows that run into filtersocks, then drain into a rubbermaid stock tank. I am thinking a 70 gallon stock tank.. though I may go with a 100 gallon. The 20 gallon also has a 1" bulkhead that feeds the external skimmer pump. The skimmer will drain right back into the 20 long. This keeps things churned up, and most everything else ends up going through the filter socks.

Seems like you are doing something very similar to this.

My thought is that the 20 gal tank will sort of act as a detritus trap. Whatever the skimmer and socks don't remove will settle in the bare 20 gallon, and can be siphoned out.

I like the Lumatek ballasts as well. I am using 3x 250HQI's rather than 400's.

Question: Did you change the standard bulkhead/plug on the rubbermaid stock tank? I know some people change theirs out and plumb in an external pump. Was wondering if you planned to do something like that.

That setup is pretty much how I am going to plumb it. The one difference is that my filter socks will be located in the 20 gallon tall. My skimmer will also dump back into this collector tank as well. I am not totally sure if I am going to replace the bulkhead on the stock tank. I will be feeding my return pump from there. I would say most likely I will replace that bulkhead. Guess that will be a game time decision.
 
Tank

Tank

Picked up the tank today from Salty Critter in Vermillion. Was glad to see they went to 4) 1 inch bulkheads instead of the 2) 3/4 inch and 2) 1 inch setup they used to have.
tank1.jpg

tank2.jpg


Not reef related, but here is my other baby:
harley.jpg
 
Painted the back of the tank black with Rustoleum enamel. Took 2 coats with a roller to achieve good coverage.
backpaint.jpg

frontpaint.jpg


I also picked up a couple of these from Ron over at Limpits Reef.
ofcover.jpg


I had one one of these on my 90 and loved the way it keep the overflow clean without the worry of fish jumping in. Should be picking up my lumber next weekend to start the stand build.
 
Stand

Stand

Started the construction of the stand over my buddy Kenny's today. Nothing like working outside on a beautiful day!

driveway.jpg



Here is the initial frame. I went with a 36 inch high stand.

stand1.jpg


Here is a view from the back with the 3/4 Oak skin on.

stand2.jpg


Still have to cut out the 3 doors and apply the trim around the edges. Stand is extremely solid and true.

stand3.jpg
 
Some more progress

Some more progress

Can finally see the light at the end of the tunnel! I am hoping to have water in the system by the end of the month. The rocks are good and cycled, they can knock down 20ML of Ammonia in around 5 hrs... Phosphates are <.03 as well.

My substrate arrived a couple weeks ago....
reeflakes.jpg


I also decided to go old school with the supplemental lighting. I was real close to building some LED fixtures but decided to hold off. You just can't go wrong with a IceCap driving some Super Actinic VHOs!!

vho.jpg


My ZEoVit reactor and basic 4 additives

zeovit.jpg


And last but not least, starting staining the stand. This is the first application. I will be going with 2 applications and a coat of Poly.

Stand1stain.jpg
 
Big Glass Box

Big Glass Box

Rounded up some strong backs from the neighborhood and moved the stand and tank to it's place in the family room. Move went rather smoothly for the most part. Now it's time to start construction of the canopy and start plumbing in the life support system.

Holes.jpg

Holes for the drains / supply / electrical

Side.jpg

The doors are on order and will be finished along with the canopy. The entire family room is getting a makeover as well. Paint, carpet etc......

MaddieFront.jpg

Of course my princess wants to be in the picture as well!!
 
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Nice build Eddie. Hey got a question for you, I am doing a similar setup and will be curious about your choice in return pump. What is the length going to be from your PW200 to the top of your return line? Going to be watching this thread as I want to see if you will be throttling back the return at all or leave it full open.
 
Looks nice - I'm in the process of setting up as well, though it's going slower for me ATM :( In fact it was me that Bean was talking to wrt a bean overflow in a RR tank. I'm going to solve that one by using one of the bulkheads for the return (going over the top with lok-line), and drilling a small hole in it just below the water line -> small net low of water *from* the overflow *into* the tank -> no stagnant water :)

I had a question about the overflow covers, if the overflow is covered, are you getting enough surface-skimming ? How does that work ? It would seem that the water would enter the overflow from under the surface, so any surface scum stays in the tank ?

Cheers,
Simon
 
Picked up the tank today from Salty Critter in Vermillion. Was glad to see they went to 4) 1 inch bulkheads instead of the 2) 3/4 inch and 2) 1 inch setup they used to have.
tank1.jpg

tank2.jpg


Not reef related, but here is my other baby:
harley.jpg

like the other baby nice
 
Nice build Eddie. Hey got a question for you, I am doing a similar setup and will be curious about your choice in return pump. What is the length going to be from your PW200 to the top of your return line? Going to be watching this thread as I want to see if you will be throttling back the return at all or leave it full open.

It's 14 ft from the pump in the basement to the top of the tank. Using the head loss calculator, I should have around 1000 GPH to the tank. I don't anticipate having to throttle it back, but there will be a true union ball valve above the pump to accomplish that if needed.
 
Looks nice - I'm in the process of setting up as well, though it's going slower for me ATM :( In fact it was me that Bean was talking to wrt a bean overflow in a RR tank. I'm going to solve that one by using one of the bulkheads for the return (going over the top with lok-line), and drilling a small hole in it just below the water line -> small net low of water *from* the overflow *into* the tank -> no stagnant water :)

I had a question about the overflow covers, if the overflow is covered, are you getting enough surface-skimming ? How does that work ? It would seem that the water would enter the overflow from under the surface, so any surface scum stays in the tank ?

Cheers,
Simon

I thought about trying a bean style overflow, but a Herbie will perform just fine here. With 2 1 inch full siphons and 2 1 inch emergency drains, I feel pretty comfortable with that. So I may need to turn the gate valve a touch every now and then, not a deal breaker in my opinion. As for the covers, the water does not flow over the top, just through the slots. There are some larger holes on the side as well. I have the same style overflow in my 90, keeps the surface pretty clean. Not as effective at surface skimming as coast to coast, but does the job. Another thing, with the proper amount of flow, the surface of your water should be very turbulent which also helps with gas exchange. Turbulent water will have no film or scum.
 
another zeovit buddy

Can finally see the light at the end of the tunnel! I am hoping to have water in the system by the end of the month. The rocks are good and cycled, they can knock down 20ML of Ammonia in around 5 hrs... Phosphates are <.03 as well.

My substrate arrived a couple weeks ago....
reeflakes.jpg


I also decided to go old school with the supplemental lighting. I was real close to building some LED fixtures but decided to hold off. You just can't go wrong with a IceCap driving some Super Actinic VHOs!!

vho.jpg


My ZEoVit reactor and basic 4 additives

zeovit.jpg


And last but not least, starting staining the stand. This is the first application. I will be going with 2 applications and a coat of Poly.

Stand1stain.jpg
 
I thought about trying a bean style overflow, but a Herbie will perform just fine here. With 2 1 inch full siphons and 2 1 inch emergency drains, I feel pretty comfortable with that. So I may need to turn the gate valve a touch every now and then, not a deal breaker in my opinion.
Fair enough. I'll be interested to hear how it works out for you. From what I've read in the (very) large Herbie thread, running two Herbie overflows at the same time can be difficult because they interact with each other.

As for the covers, the water does not flow over the top, just through the slots. There are some larger holes on the side as well. I have the same style overflow in my 90, keeps the surface pretty clean. Not as effective at surface skimming as coast to coast, but does the job. Another thing, with the proper amount of flow, the surface of your water should be very turbulent which also helps with gas exchange. Turbulent water will have no film or scum.

Cool. I might try the same when I get mine set up then. I was under the impression the surface of the water actually had to flow over the weir to get surface skimming. I suppose it's a sort of vortex action that's sucking any floating film through the slots then. My flow will actually be higher than this, so it ought to work for me too :)

Simon
 
Fair enough. I'll be interested to hear how it works out for you. From what I've read in the (very) large Herbie thread, running two Herbie overflows at the same time can be difficult because they interact with each other.



Simon

I read that too in a few posts, but I also found multiple times where guys are running the dual Herbie with no balance problems at all. I will have a gate valve on each siphon located in the basement. With the way I will have my system plumbed; I will be flexible in trying other configurations if needed.
 
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