Ventilation for fish room

Dmorty217

Saltwater Addict
What did you use as a ventilation fan for your fish room? I will have 1100g worth of water for one system and another 150g or so for a QT system so around 1300g of water total. I have been looking at squirrel fan blowers but looking to see what others used and how you went about sizing the fan? Thanks in advance, pictures are always welcome
 
I went with a HRV for mine. One of my reasons for doing so was to recuperate at least some of the heat of my home before blowing it outside.
 
Weird, can't edit my last post...

Anyway, another nice thing is a HRV is pressure neutral so you don't create negative air pressure in your house which can be an issue if you're running any gas appliances
 
Weird, can't edit my last post...

Anyway, another nice thing is a HRV is pressure neutral so you don't create negative air pressure in your house which can be an issue if you're running any gas appliances

The negative air pressure will be a issue. We are building a house and will have a gas stove. Can you spell out what HRV is? Sorry not familiar with that acronym... How did you go about sizing the fan?
 
How well do these work for basements? That's where my tank and fish room will be located. All the diagrams I see of these have the ventilator located in the attic it appears
 
Doesn't really matter where they are actually installed because both the exhaust side and discharge are both ducted. Mine is installed in my basement with 1 vent drawing from my fish room and 1 right from the canopy of my tank. That air get vented outside. The fresh air drawn in is ducted into the return air of my furnace.
 
Doesn't really matter where they are actually installed because both the exhaust side and discharge are both ducted. Mine is installed in my basement with 1 vent drawing from my fish room and 1 right from the canopy of my tank. That air get vented outside. The fresh air drawn in is ducted into the return air of my furnace.

Ok that's good to know, you will have to forgive my lack of knowledge on how this system works... Guess that why I will just buy one and tell my builder what I need done.
 
Here is another thread on the subject. Damn near same title too.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?p=23367599#post23367599

My tank is drywalled in from top to bottom although I do have a satellite tank or display refugium in the office next to my tank that is part of the same system. My total volume is around 650 gallons. The brunt of my humidity is consolidated above and below the tank.

When I built my tank in 18 years ago, I installed a 10" Rotron high CFM fan in the soffit above the tank so that it ducts out of the soffit and exits through ducting to vent outside the house. There is some room between the wall above the tank that leads to the sump space below the tank where I have a vent on the wall. This allows the air to be drawn from above and below the tank to be ducted outside the house. The end result is that I have little to no humidity above or below my tank as well in the adjacent rooms since my tank is more or less sealed off from the rooms. The fan draws the air from above and below and air from the room is drawn in through the spaces around the doors above and below the tank to insure there is a constant flow of fresh air above and below the tank. This fan runs 24/7.

This is the same fan I used.
http://www.amazon.com/Comair-Rotron-020189-Caravel-Cooling/dp/B000J1AJEC

This is a shot of the fan & ducting location in my light soffit. All walls above and below the tank are covered in FRP to prevent humidity damage.
lightstop.jpg


This is the vent below the tank where air is also drawn to be ducted out of the house.
image_zps26fd4750.jpg


A view looking up at the duct in the adjacent closet between the tank and the exterior wall. The fan is inside the widest portion of the duct and screwed to wall that borders the tank on the button side of this photo. The narrow portion of the duct leads to the outside wall.
DSC00440.jpg


This is a more recent shot of the duct between the soffit and the exterior wall. I wrapped sound proofing insulation around the ducting to reduce fan noise as well as noise from air passing through the duct. My bedroom is directly above the tank and this insulation eliminated any fan related noise. Those pulley's and cables are for my electric light rack lift. Looks like some of the duct tape came loose.. Have to put fixing that on my "to do" list. :thumbsup:
image_zps279f36d4.jpg


The vent on the outside of the house
DSC00678.jpg
 
Slief, do you have any form of make up air? Fresh air physically supplied back to your house to replace what you're taking out?
ASHRAE standards give a rough guideline of a maximum exhaust rate from your house of 15 cfm per 100 sq ft of occupiable space then you really should have some form of make up air.
I think I saw that fan was 525 cfm. Add that to your dryer, range hood, bathroom fans etc, and there may be curtains times where a home can be severely under pressure and create dangerous conditions should there be a gas fired furnace, hot water tank or stove.
Just food for thought....
 
Slief, do you have any form of make up air? Fresh air physically supplied back to your house to replace what you're taking out?
ASHRAE standards give a rough guideline of a maximum exhaust rate from your house of 15 cfm per 100 sq ft of occupiable space then you really should have some form of make up air.
I think I saw that fan was 525 cfm. Add that to your dryer, range hood, bathroom fans etc, and there may be curtains times where a home can be severely under pressure and create dangerous conditions should there be a gas fired furnace, hot water tank or stove.
Just food for thought....

I don't have any other sources for air to enter the house other than the vents in the attic & the range hood. Water heater is in the garage and the furnace is in the attic. It's been almost 18 years like this without an issue and I have absolutely no humidity issues above the tank or in the tank room.
 
Cool. I'm up in Canada and many homes have natural gas furnace, hot water tanks, fireplaces, dryers and stoves. Negative pressure can lead to extremely dangerous conditions with so much going on in a house and many times people forget about just how much is really exhausted out of a home at any given time. I'm a journeyman sheet metal worker and come across this quite regularly, especially when homeowners replace kitchen exhaust hoods from a 200 cfm fan to a 1200 cfm fan and wonder why they smell gas every time they fire it up.
Not as much of an issue in places of warmer climates with no gas heating.
 
Slief, do you have any form of make up air? Fresh air physically supplied back to your house to replace what you're taking out?
ASHRAE standards give a rough guideline of a maximum exhaust rate from your house of 15 cfm per 100 sq ft of occupiable space then you really should have some form of make up air.
I think I saw that fan was 525 cfm. Add that to your dryer, range hood, bathroom fans etc, and there may be curtains times where a home can be severely under pressure and create dangerous conditions should there be a gas fired furnace, hot water tank or stove.
Just food for thought....

Would an HRV be the best option for a northern home?

I am in Minnesota and about to set up some humidity control. We have gas furnace, dryer and water heater. I was going to run a couple fans kind of like slief (a small 200cfm in the fishroom and 200cfm in a hood above the tank). Maybe I should just go right toward a whole home HRV? I am handy and could install it myself, just want to make sure I am going with the best possible option.
 
Cool. I'm up in Canada

You and slief are really at different weather conditions. The predicted high for slief's town is 77 degrees today!

I'm guessing houses in the cold areas are build tighter and the make-up air (with heat recovery) is much more important. If you have gas appliances, hot water or a fire place, a make up-air supply should not be ignored.
 
Would an HRV be the best option for a northern home?

I am in Minnesota and about to set up some humidity control. We have gas furnace, dryer and water heater. I was going to run a couple fans kind of like slief (a small 200cfm in the fishroom and 200cfm in a hood above the tank). Maybe I should just go right toward a whole home HRV? I am handy and could install it myself, just want to make sure I am going with the best possible option.

If you don't you'll just be heating the great outdoors!

Without make-up air you could suck in flue gasses. Carbon monoxide and other nasties. :thumbdown:
 
Would an HRV be the best option for a northern home?






thats one of those questions that you'll get many answers on. I've seen improperly installed units that were all but useless. In my opinion, for northern homes they really shine in the winter. Warm moist air that is ejected preheats the cold dry air coming in. If at all possible, many HVAC guys will tell you to eliminate your bathroom fans and use 1 properly sized HRV instead. I agree with that. But in many of our situations where this is a retrofit to exhaust specifically moisture evaporating from our tanks and sumps it's rarely feasible.
So depending on evaporation rates, size of tank, and a handful of other factors, it's hard to say. I'm running a 80 g and a 20g in my living space with a 150 gal sump in my basement. I figure I'm evaporating 2-3 g a day into my home. So for me, especially when I get my 210g upgrade wet, a HRV was a good idea.
Like I said earlier, they are pressure neutral. In theory they bring into your home as much fresh air as they exhaust. So I'm able to exhaust all that humidity from the 2 specific locations I'm producing it, without negatively pressurizing my home while at least regaining a bit of the heat from the air I spent money to heat before I just throw it outside.
 
You and slief are really at different weather conditions. The predicted high for slief's town is 77 degrees today!

I'm guessing houses in the cold areas are build tighter and the make-up air (with heat recovery) is much more important. If you have gas appliances, hot water or a fire place, a make up-air supply should not be ignored.

100% correct on all counts. So location, interior factors etc, all have to be considered before coming up with a humidity control plan for an individual home. Not all of us will face the same challenges.
My original post was just to point out a couple of factors that deserve some serious consideration while coming up with plan.
 
If you don't you'll just be heating the great outdoors!

Without make-up air you could suck in flue gasses. Carbon monoxide and other nasties. :thumbdown:


Very true, and when summer comes (90+ degree) I would be cooling the great outdoors too... $$$

Would it be a good idea to oversize the HRV unit a bit with the large water volume (600G) we will have or is that just a waste of energy?
 
thats one of those questions that you'll get many answers on. I've seen improperly installed units that were all but useless. In my opinion, for northern homes they really shine in the winter. Warm moist air that is ejected preheats the cold dry air coming in. If at all possible, many HVAC guys will tell you to eliminate your bathroom fans and use 1 properly sized HRV instead. I agree with that. But in many of our situations where this is a retrofit to exhaust specifically moisture evaporating from our tanks and sumps it's rarely feasible.
So depending on evaporation rates, size of tank, and a handful of other factors, it's hard to say. I'm running a 80 g and a 20g in my living space with a 150 gal sump in my basement. I figure I'm evaporating 2-3 g a day into my home. So for me, especially when I get my 210g upgrade wet, a HRV was a good idea.
Like I said earlier, they are pressure neutral. In theory they bring into your home as much fresh air as they exhaust. So I'm able to exhaust all that humidity from the 2 specific locations I'm producing it, without negatively pressurizing my home while at least regaining a bit of the heat from the air I spent money to heat before I just throw it outside.

We don't have any bathroom fans so thats a plus I guess. We have a 3000sqft home (rambler) with a 400g tank going up on the main level and sump/fishroom in the basement laundry room area. I would most likely need to install the HRV in the laundry room area since everything else is finished off. Would this work out well?

Do you have seperate vents going from the HRV right to the locations your producing the humidity? It wouldnt be very feasible to have a vent go up to the 400g from the laundry in our situation, just no room for ducting.

What size HRV would you suggest I look into?
 
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