I agree - I would shoot for 75% on Blue and RB (tweek as you like) and keep whites in 25-50 (min max). I would not go over 60% on UVs (just my opinion). I have one pad for each of my SR260s. Hope this helps.
Dave
Vertex Illumina Light Studio Programming Thread
- Thread starter Uncko Macko
- Start date
I agree - I would shoot for 75% on Blue and RB (tweek as you like) and keep whites in 25-50 (min max). I would not go over 60% on UVs (just my opinion). I have one pad for each of my SR260s. Hope this helps.
Dave
I just received my SR260 1ft fixture for my 25 gallon cube. (18x18x18) I'm replacing a Kessil A150 10,000K pendant. What would you recommend for a starting point on the mix of White/Blue/Royal Blue? What's the most realistic way to have the colors fade in and out to simulate natural sun?
I've played around with the programming in Expert mode with the fixture sitting on my desk to be comfortable with setting up as many points as necessary. I know a lot of it is personal preference. Thanks!
I've played around with the programming in Expert mode with the fixture sitting on my desk to be comfortable with setting up as many points as necessary. I know a lot of it is personal preference. Thanks!
Expert mode is way to go (in my opinion). I would ramp up to simulate dawn/dusk and max out as follows:
W: 25-40
B: 50-75
R: 50-75
Start out slow and ramp these numbers up over a month. Move in 5 point increments. For example start out as:
w: 10
B: 30
R: 30
move up 5 points per week for 4 weeks. Obviously you can start where you want to end where you want after 4 weeks.
Great lights but they are intense. Mix in lightning and cloud cover to give a cool twist. Also don't forget the moon (lunar is the best). Hope this helps and remember to each his own. This is just my opinion. Good luck.
Thx. Dave
Dave,
Thanks for the help!
What do you guys think looks most realistic? Like starting with blues in the morning and ending with blues only in the evening. Have the whites peak mid-day and then drop off more quickly than the blues through the afternoon?
I'm using Lunar West Triangle and have some clouds thrown into my program. The lightning effects look awesome. Only problem is that my dog found the lightning a little too realistic and went running to her hiding place in the bathroom! She's deathly afraid of thunderstorms. So I guess I won't be using the lightning effects.
Hi folks,
I am sure this is covered somewhere but I need an answer as soon as I can get it.
I have created a "program" in Custom and have uploaded it. When I try to exit it tells me my changes are not saved. So my question is, "How do I save them?".
I can't find any field that allows me to save.
Please help!!!
Gary
I am sure this is covered somewhere but I need an answer as soon as I can get it.
I have created a "program" in Custom and have uploaded it. When I try to exit it tells me my changes are not saved. So my question is, "How do I save them?".
I can't find any field that allows me to save.
Please help!!!
Gary
jlanger
Get busy living...
Multicolor Module Installation
Multicolor Module Installation
I just received two Multicolor Modules for my SR260.
I installed the modules while watching the BRS Install video. The only deviation from the video was that I hooked up the cables to the existing pad prior to installing the module as it was a pain trying to get the wire clip to fit.
I upgraded the firmware to the 2.035 bin file.
And I got nothing.
If the modules are installed correctly, do they show up as a box in the update window?
I show that I can update Range 0-5.
Is there a way to tell if the installation is correct?
Do I have to power off the fixture after the update to have it take effect?
When I open up the Light Studio in the software program, it doesn't show any of the color channels for the new modules.
If anyone has any suggestions, let me know.
If you need more information from me, just ask.
Thanks.
Multicolor Module Installation
I just received two Multicolor Modules for my SR260.
I installed the modules while watching the BRS Install video. The only deviation from the video was that I hooked up the cables to the existing pad prior to installing the module as it was a pain trying to get the wire clip to fit.
I upgraded the firmware to the 2.035 bin file.
And I got nothing.
If the modules are installed correctly, do they show up as a box in the update window?
I show that I can update Range 0-5.
Is there a way to tell if the installation is correct?
Do I have to power off the fixture after the update to have it take effect?
When I open up the Light Studio in the software program, it doesn't show any of the color channels for the new modules.
If anyone has any suggestions, let me know.
If you need more information from me, just ask.
Thanks.
First make sure you have all the updated software including the Desktop software:
http://www.vertexaquaristik.com/Pro...wnloads/tabid/581/language/en-US/Default.aspx
http://www.vertexaquaristik.com/Pro...wnloads/tabid/581/language/en-US/Default.aspx
jlanger
Get busy living...
That was the missing update.
Thank you.
So now that I have the module working...
What are people finding out are good starting points and levels to achieve with the multicolor module?
Animadverto
New member
The Illumina's manual said to only update software to either fix a problem or to run new hardware. If your existing software is working seamlessly with the multicolor modules and the light fixture, there really is no reason to update it I suppose. I've been running the multicolor modules for almost 2 months now without any problems whatsoever using Desktop software 1968, V-Link 1967, and firmware 2035.
crabbyreef
New member
jayhawk69
New member
Is anyone interested in sharing their CSV files? I have an email to Jamie, at Vertex, but haven't received them yet. I just got the SR260 and would like to load configurations. I have reviewed the prior posts and appreciate the screen shots. Maybe I am just too lazy to add the points manually. Thanks....
Hello Mike.
Your programming looks good. If this is new an you've got coral in your tank I would suggest lowering your white profile. 50% on he whites is usually a max. I guess I'm assuming you e got the standarded 24" deep tank.
Remember it's more easy to kill your coral with to much power. Start slow and try to max out at 50% over a period of time, slow and watch your coral.
Hello Mike.
Your programming looks good. If this is new an you've got coral in your tank I would suggest lowering your white profile. 50% on he whites is usually a max. I guess I'm assuming you e got the standarded 24" deep tank.
Remember it's more easy to kill your coral with to much power. Start slow and try to max out at 50% over a period of time, slow and watch your coral.
