VHO vs. T5
- Thread starter pheromo
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Urban_Squrill
New member
VHO's generate a lot of heat and do not put out as much light as t5s.
superedge88
New member
because most people only understand wattage ratings and have no idea what lumen ratings mean.
superedge88
New member
They have to use wattage references so you know what ballasts to use on them, but as far as light output the T5 will give you more light output when using a good reflector.
Urban_Squrill
New member
If you wanna keep clams go with t5. More lumens and par. Also get a good reflector.
pjf
Premium Member
For efficiency alone, I recommend T5 lighting over VHO lighting.
• VHO T12 lamps produce ~50 lumens per watt: http://www.elliptipar.com/vertical/Vertpdf/VertGdLg.pdf
• T5 lighting produces 90-100 lumens per watt: http://www.lrc.rpi.edu/programs/nlpip/lightingAnswers/lat5/pc1a.asp
T5 fixtures with individual parabolic reflectors will direct much more light into your aquarium than VHO fixtures. I have not heard of VHO lamps with parabolic reflectors. The thinner diameter tubes are easier to design reflectors for.
• VHO T12 lamps produce ~50 lumens per watt: http://www.elliptipar.com/vertical/Vertpdf/VertGdLg.pdf
• T5 lighting produces 90-100 lumens per watt: http://www.lrc.rpi.edu/programs/nlpip/lightingAnswers/lat5/pc1a.asp
T5 fixtures with individual parabolic reflectors will direct much more light into your aquarium than VHO fixtures. I have not heard of VHO lamps with parabolic reflectors. The thinner diameter tubes are easier to design reflectors for.
superedge88
New member
Just want to make sure that you are talking about high output T5 and not normal output T5.
fishfiend00s
In Memoriam
How about the vho actinics I hear they are better the the t5s.
pjf
Premium Member
Look in Table 1-2: http://www.lrc.rpi.edu/programs/nlpip/lightingAnswers/lat5/pc1a.asp
aninjaatemyshoe
New member
Reasons why T5's are recommended over T12s:
-T5's are less than half the thickness, which allows more to be placed over an aquarium. (5/8" vs. 12/8").
-This slim profile also results in less blocked light when using a reflector.
-The run more efficiently, ie. they generate more lumens/watt.
-Longer useable lifespan.
Problems with T5s:
-Easily break, so shipping costs more.
-Not standard length of other fluorescent bulbs, so they need their own sized fixture.
-Run at a hotter temperature than other fluorescents, but still cooler than MH's.
NO T5's are better than HO T5's in terms of efficiency, however they don't bring the intensity that you need to have clams or SPS. Overall, T5's are much better than VHO's and if you're going with a new lighting fixture they are the way to go.
-T5's are less than half the thickness, which allows more to be placed over an aquarium. (5/8" vs. 12/8").
-This slim profile also results in less blocked light when using a reflector.
-The run more efficiently, ie. they generate more lumens/watt.
-Longer useable lifespan.
Problems with T5s:
-Easily break, so shipping costs more.
-Not standard length of other fluorescent bulbs, so they need their own sized fixture.
-Run at a hotter temperature than other fluorescents, but still cooler than MH's.
NO T5's are better than HO T5's in terms of efficiency, however they don't bring the intensity that you need to have clams or SPS. Overall, T5's are much better than VHO's and if you're going with a new lighting fixture they are the way to go.
aninjaatemyshoe
New member
Oh, and another thing to make clear is that VHO does not mean the same thing as T12. When people meantion VHO, they usually mean T12's. VHO just refers to the amount of output/wattage they run at. The outputs normally referenced are NO (normal output), HO (high output), and VHO (very high output). Other bulb sizes can come in NO, HO, and VHO.
Most of the benefits I listed above correspond to the benefits of T5's smaller size. You can get T5 HO bulbs to run at what is essentially VHO using the Icecap ballast. I do this currently with my setup. 24" T5 HO lights run at 24W, while running them on the Icecap ballast they use about 40W. This means they are even more intense. The problems with this are that it shortens the life of the bulb, the bulbs run even hotter, and the efficiency goes down a bit (but still better than a T12 VHO).
Most of the benefits I listed above correspond to the benefits of T5's smaller size. You can get T5 HO bulbs to run at what is essentially VHO using the Icecap ballast. I do this currently with my setup. 24" T5 HO lights run at 24W, while running them on the Icecap ballast they use about 40W. This means they are even more intense. The problems with this are that it shortens the life of the bulb, the bulbs run even hotter, and the efficiency goes down a bit (but still better than a T12 VHO).
bureau13
New member
Hmmm...actinic refers to the 420 nm light, which is purplish, compared with blue bulbs which are 450 nm or so. The 420 nm is what makes certain green and yellow corals flouresce. I can't comment on whether the VHO from UVL actually have more blue in them, but if they do, then they're less of a true actinic. I suspect that's not true though...the UVL T5 bulb actually has a bit more blue in it than some of the other manufacturer's actinic bulbs, which is probably responsible for the greater PAR output (see the big T5 thread for more info on this than you'll ever want to read).
jds
jds
pjf
Premium Member
Fluorescence Washed Out by Visible Light
Fluorescence Washed Out by Visible Light
Is there anyone who can actually see corals fluoresce in the presence of visible light or under actinic lamps?
The only time that I can see my corals fluoresce is when I use my 405nm “black light†LED at night. If there is any visible light, even from actinic lamps, the fluorescence is completely washed out.
For example:
• One of my anemones glows an ugly green under black light (405nm). Under visible light, it is a beautiful white with purple tips.
• Another of my anemones glows a beautiful green under black light. Under visible light, it is an ugly yellow brown.
• Many of my corals glow green under black light. Under visible light, they are also green so I can’t tell if I am seeing fluorescence or simply reflected color.
• My wife washed my white shirt with a fluorescent detergent. In a laser tag center that was lit with black light, my shirt glowed blue and I became a laser target. In the office, my shirt is just plain white.
Fluorescence Washed Out by Visible Light
Is there anyone who can actually see corals fluoresce in the presence of visible light or under actinic lamps?
The only time that I can see my corals fluoresce is when I use my 405nm “black light†LED at night. If there is any visible light, even from actinic lamps, the fluorescence is completely washed out.
For example:
• One of my anemones glows an ugly green under black light (405nm). Under visible light, it is a beautiful white with purple tips.
• Another of my anemones glows a beautiful green under black light. Under visible light, it is an ugly yellow brown.
• Many of my corals glow green under black light. Under visible light, they are also green so I can’t tell if I am seeing fluorescence or simply reflected color.
• My wife washed my white shirt with a fluorescent detergent. In a laser tag center that was lit with black light, my shirt glowed blue and I became a laser target. In the office, my shirt is just plain white.
bureau13
New member
Sure...with only my actinics on, I get a lot of flourescence out of select areas of green star polyps (oddly, others not so much) as well as the green polyps on one of my acros. Other corals show this to a somewhat lesser degree as well. You're probably seeing it as well, but it obviously won't be as noticable when you can see everything else as well (i.e. compared to your black light).
jds
jds
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