I wouldnt do any reds, haven't really read anything GOOD about them, other then people that like a weird bright red to their tank.
But, I've read lots of good thinkgs about going with warm white LEDs that drop into the red spectrum, like a 4500k. I would do 4 pinks and swap some of your 7000k whites for some 4500k warm whites, personally.
And yeah, True Violets are the way to go, not UV.
If you're interested, I've done a lot of reading on LEDs and they say in addition to green LEDs, cyan LEDs can cover a spectrum that most LEDs miss.
Here's a link to the one I may get:
http://www.luxeonstar.com/Cyan-505nm-20mm-Star-LED-122-lm-p/mr-e0070-20s.htm?CartID=1
And also, royal blues cover the dark blue-violet spectrum, in addition, I added plain old Blue LEDs to my order, they cover the midpoint between the cyan and the royal blue.
Link for the Blue LEDs i'm going to get (same as the website for the Cyans)
http://www.luxeonstar.com/Blue-470nm-20mm-Star-LED-70-lm-p/mr-b0040-20s.htm?CartID=3
And last, the greens I'm getting, also from the same site as the cyans/blues:
http://www.luxeonstar.com/Green-530nm-20mm-Star-LED-139-lm-p/mr-m0080-20s.htm?CartID=2
This way I'll only be placing orders to Aquastyle and Luxeonstar.
I set up a little chart of my own, and here's my LEDs in order of the spectrum I posted earlier.
True Violet (420nm), Royal Blue (455nm), Blue (470nm), Cyan (505nm), Green (530nm), Pink (590nm), and then obviously Cool Whites (10000k), Neutral Whites (6500k), and Warm Whites (4500k)
As you can see, without the regular blue LEDs (not to be confused with royal blues), there's a big gap of 50nm between the royals and the cyan, from 455nm to 505nm.
Same goes with the cyan led, without it, there would be a 60nm gap between the blue and green LEDs.
Hope this helps,
Zack