was my 75 build nows its my 110 tall

thanks for your input, i feel better about it now, i am trying to have some flow hitting the back of the rocks also, but i just bought about 100 snails and hermits today to go with the rest of my army, so i think i have about 140 or so hermits and snails or all sorts, and a sand sifter. Still a few more things to go in the cleaning army department. I will be rounding up the rest of the plumbing for it this weekend i hope.
 
Sounds perfect. I have a sand sifting star, 10 turbo's and 5 hermits. A very small CUC really, however I have no algea and the sand is nice and white with the exception of that one spot which is in a corner and easy to siphon out.
 
phillybean you set up sounds like the way mine is going to be, my sump is 48 gallons full and 30 running what is yours? how is your closed loop set up?

here are a few pictures of the sump with the paper off and with water in it.

DSCN1119.jpg

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thanks easye! I am going to be scouting out plumbing parts today, its hard to find the stuff i want, i am going to be needing a lot of ball valves and unions so my wallet is going to be taking a hit again and i am only a student lol.
 
oh another little update, i bought a huge rose anemone for 30 bucks and i am going to putting that in this new tank, currently i have every thing in my 75 up and running now, thats the one i am replacing.

sorry this picture is not that good, the halides turned off like right after i took it lol, and it is bigger now.

DSCN1104.jpg
 
Sweet anem. for a sweet price!
I gave a couple of fish away to this guy for free, and he has hude RBTA that split all the time. He said when he gets another one I can have it. I cant wait!!

I dont have any fancy plumbing. Got all the ball valves and stuff I needed from lowes.

Im a student in college also. I know what ya mean on about that wallet gettin hit.lol
 
this is for you easye...this is my Octopus 200 nw, i just cleaned the collection cup out the day before, and it is nasty now, the junk it pulls out is like mud, it makes your eyes water when you empty it lol.

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i am running on my current 75 to break it for the new tank, it has been running for about a week or so. Very pleased with it.
 
Hey Paulie,

Yeah that Dart is awesome. In one of the outputs I get whirl-winds? Basically a water tornado that sucks air into the tank causing a billion bubbles. Any time I tweak the loc line it takes me about 15 minutes to fix it.

My sump is running 40+ gallons when full I would say. I have a small overflow so Im not worried about floods if I lose power.

Don't copy my plumbing whatever you do. The only regret I have with my tank is the plumbing. The overflow is great, you can't hear anything.

The return and closed loop...ugh.

My return has way too many elbows which hinder the flow. It is also all 1/2" PVC which I found out afterwards isn't right. I should have gone with 3/4". I'm also getting awful flow thru the fuge and have it plumbed with-out enough disconnects to be able to plumb in my Carbon/Phosban reactors that I hope to get soon properly.

The closed loop is a mess. I used Spaflex for the 1 1/2" output but not for the 1/2" outputs. This caused the need for several more elbows. This caused the "tower" return to bend on an angle which I think looks awful. Since my return was made first, I had to work around it and therefore had to have it go verticle as opposed to horizontal.

Also, all my valves are "red handle" ball valves. They are a ***** to adjust, and I hear the black handle ones are better. I would have liked to have gone with them.

Later tonight I will snap a few shots of my tank and post them. I just picked up a Yellow Tang last night. A little cliche' I know, but it's a hardy fish, good size for a 75 gallon and although common they are a great looking fish!
 
yeah i love my yellow tang i have now....is the intake for the dart up close to the surface? is that why it is sucking in air. that happens on my return pump when the water gets low in the old sump. i saw some of the ball valves with blue handles and they seem easier and the new red ones seem much better. those black ones are nice but very expensive i hear-but the way to go if you can afford it. I think i am going with 1inch pvc for my return and 2inch for the intake on the dart then 1inch also for the closed loop. hope it will work
 
I hate when i write a long thing and then i erase it some how!!!

ok so i was going over my plumbing and this is what i came up with. does anyone have a better idea of how to do it, and what is the best way to adjust the flow though the exits off the closed loop. also are the PVC sizes ok. I forgot to add in the return on the diagram, but i plan on using 1inch or 1.5 or there is always 1.25 inch i could use right. Anyways i am just looking for some ideas and sizes people think i should use on the different parts of the set up. the only one i know for sure is that the dart should have a 2 inch intake.

thanks for reading all that.

diagram.jpg
 
I by no means know a lot about plumbing, however I would use a 1inch drain and a 3/4in return. Thats what I have and its a good balance from my overflow drain and my eheim 1262 return pump. Most all return pumps I have used have 3/4 -1inch outlet. A drain bigger than an inch would drain a lot more I think. Therefore if your pump cant pump it back to the display fast enough there might be a problem. I dont know though...like I said I dont know much about plumbing. 99.9 percent of tanks I have seen have 1inch drain with 3/4in return. Now closed loop systems Ihave no idea. Ive never had one. I dont know what size you should use for that.

Hope that helped, if not sorry for confusin ya..lol
 
its all good thanks, i am going to use ball valve on every line to control the flow over the drain and return, but i can't over flow the tank if i tried with that pump, it push a bit of 1000gph and i have 3 1 inch holes so it just would not be able to fill fast enough, and as for draining to fast, it will only drain as much as the pump push so i don't think it will flood the sump....does anyone else think that makes sense(is that the right since?lol). thanks easye for the advice.

-matt
 
Ya I have ball valves on my drain and return thats how I control it. My eheim 1262 is suppose to push like 900gph, but after the head loss it probably is only around 200-300 with the valve all the way open. When I have my tanks drain all the way open the one inch drain drains so much that my return pump (at 900 gph) dosent pump the water to the display fast enough to even the durso standpipe out so that its silent. I use the ball valve for the drain so that the return pump is balanced.

I really wish I would of done a closed loop system and drilled wholes for it. owell powerheads work work.lol
 
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