was my 75 build nows its my 110 tall

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13574758#post13574758 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by hotwired99
I also have a 4000HH. It does run quiet, but very hot. Almost cant touch the bottom of it. Wouldnt want to use it internal thats for sure. Youd have an always on heater.
Click to expand...

Seriously? I just shut mine off and picked it up after reading this and its not even close to hot. Mine is internal. Theres no way its putting any substantial heat into my system or I doubt my heater would be kicking in each night. Our condo is around 78 at night and to keep the tank 80 my heater is needed. This is with the pump running. Maybe yours has some kind of problem?
 
maybe it is just because its external...thanks for taking the time both of you to advise me on it, and thank you justinpsmith i feel better about it....i put duct tape over the thermostat this summer so no one could turn down the AC, i kept it at 70 so the tank would stay at 77 to 78...and during winter i barely use the heat, i love the cold and i can put on a sweat shirt lol. Oh and i have a 300 watt titanium heater i hope thats enough to heat 150 gallons of water? and thanks for the TWO correction i can't believe i did that.

i am still trying to find the best place for the dart...when i had the sump made i left enough room for it on the side so i might go a head with that plan and just more my UV and reactor some place else.
 
Looks good so far. In regards to the CL, I would suggest two intakes instead of one as your drawing shows. This way it lessens the pull and keeps things from getting stuck to the strainer. Also, if one was to get blocked, it would allow the CL to still work optimally.
 
Good idea Ratpack.
Im using a Dart for my CL pump and have it split and pulling from 2-1.5" bulkheads. Even with them split it will still suck your hand to the bulkhead pretty easily. But with the strainers in place its not nearly as bad. Im sure with only 1 intake it would be a lot worse.

justinpsmith
Im sure if my 4000HH pump was emersed in water it wouldnt be nearly as hot. Im pretty sure the water would act as a great heat sink.
 
well i will see how it is when i do a test...its only drilled for 1 2inch hole...my guy at the LFS seems to think it should be ok so i am gonna see...if it is not i will drill another or add a T with strainers.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13582321#post13582321 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by hotwired99
Good idea Ratpack.
Im using a Dart for my CL pump and have it split and pulling from 2-1.5" bulkheads. Even with them split it will still suck your hand to the bulkhead pretty easily. But with the strainers in place its not nearly as bad. Im sure with only 1 intake it would be a lot worse.

justinpsmith
Im sure if my 4000HH pump was emersed in water it wouldnt be nearly as hot. Im pretty sure the water would act as a great heat sink.
Click to expand...

Yeah thats what Im thinking. The thing is, my temperature probe is close to the return pump. But even when I just moved it to my main display, the temperature did not change. So there is no more heat right by my return pump than the rest of the tank. Could the water really just be keeping the pump cool enough not to notice a difference?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13584915#post13584915 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by PaulieWalnuts
well i will see how it is when i do a test...its only drilled for 1 2inch hole...my guy at the LFS seems to think it should be ok so i am gonna see...if it is not i will drill another or add a T with strainers.
Click to expand...

Strainers are a must even with one hole, otherwise you are almost guaranteed to get something puree'd. Also, snails will crawl in there and block it off.
 
You could always put a T on the inside of the tank with 2 strainers on it. Will lessen the suction to each opening and you dont have to drill anymore holes.
 
i like to think so....my tank should be at the house tomorrow or thursday morning and i my vortech should be at the store by now...so more soon!!
 
yeah still waiting on mine to come in...the only way i was able to justify that price tag was that a OM4way is about 389...then ALLLLLL the plumbing involved and it does not add more flow, so the vortech, is a low profile power head that mixes up flow more so then a OM4way and it ADDS more flow to the tank.....nothing again the OM but i also do not want to take it off fix it or something. its like christmas waiting on the vortech btw....and i just got off work and am falling asleep while i type this so sorry for the many errors....zzzzz
 
Well I cant wait to see if you can get a wave in your tank with just one of the Vortechs. Ill probably be getting one or two of them when uncle sam pays me back next year.
IF THE TANKS DONE BY THEN!!
 
lol yeah i forgot about the tax returns SWEEEEET!!! i am still waiting on the vortech to come in, but i will post a video of it and all....and might...key word is might have a closed loop test tonight....if the tank comes today....i set up some center blocks and ply wood as a temp stand in my kitchen, so if it leaks during the trial test, which i am sure it will it will not be on my hard wood floors....which SUCKS!!!
 
Plywood and cinder blocks... make sure it is fully and evenly supported. You don't want the tank to falter during your water test.
 
thanks thats a good idea, i am only using 4 blocks, one on each corner, and 1/2 ply on the bottom below the blocks and another piece on top of the blocks....i might just put the tank right on the ply and then on the floor. i will see when my tank is here!!! can't wait!!!!!!
 
Any solid structure is good. The floor is probably pretty darn smooth, but a sheet of plywood would be best to assure that.

If you had a bunch of cinder blocks to support the sheet equally, that would be fine too.
 
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