Although I do water changes on my 180 reef every 4 weeks --25 gal--I also do a 300 g water change on each of my 1500 gal FOWLR tanks every 4 weeks. Exhausting! and expensive! On fish only tanks, what do you folks out there think is necessary or required on these larger tanks? What volume, what frequency do you recommend?
Water changes on 1500g tanks??
- Thread starter barrysalt
- Start date
water changes on 1500 g tanks
water changes on 1500 g tanks
I'd like to consider automatic water changes, as you both suggested, but where do I find the information on how this is accomplished? If new water goes in at the same time as old water is pumped out, wouldn't the newest water get pumped out as well? How is that avoided? Thanks for whatever info you can send my way!
water changes on 1500 g tanks
I'd like to consider automatic water changes, as you both suggested, but where do I find the information on how this is accomplished? If new water goes in at the same time as old water is pumped out, wouldn't the newest water get pumped out as well? How is that avoided? Thanks for whatever info you can send my way!
Well lets put it this way. Take out near the start of the sump, put back in at the end of the sump. Always getting the water. While mixing will result in, like it says 'mixed', you would have to do 100% water change to not get mixed water in a normal water change anyway.
I will post later on this, but search these forums for water change and see what you find.
I will post later on this, but search these forums for water change and see what you find.
m0nkie
Well-known member
The genesis system comes with two 1 gallon bucket. It would drain out 1 gallon, store inside the bucket. Then dump that out. At the same time, the other bucket will store a gallon of new water, and replenish the sump. I put the intake and output far away from each other. Their auto top off system is connected with the auto water change system so it will not top off when sump water level drops.
I guess if you do multiple small WC a day, you technically lose a little bit of the new water mix. I don't think it will make any difference
OP, what are the bio loads of the tanks? That's more the determining fact than anything.
If the bio loads are minimal and filtration is maxed then water changes can be minimal for sure.
I have an 860 mixed reef with 200g sump. My bioload is medium ata moment. Maybe 40 fish, but only a few large 4-6" ones. Rest are wrasses and smaller fish .I have a BK300 ext, chaeto, and rock in sump. I use a CaRx for mineral replacement. I water change maybe 100-125g every 4-5 weeks or so. My parameters are 0 ammonia 0 nitrite and 20ppm nitrate. Consistantly
If the bio loads are minimal and filtration is maxed then water changes can be minimal for sure.
I have an 860 mixed reef with 200g sump. My bioload is medium ata moment. Maybe 40 fish, but only a few large 4-6" ones. Rest are wrasses and smaller fish .I have a BK300 ext, chaeto, and rock in sump. I use a CaRx for mineral replacement. I water change maybe 100-125g every 4-5 weeks or so. My parameters are 0 ammonia 0 nitrite and 20ppm nitrate. Consistantly
A few others have chimed in as well, good.
Here is a thread talks a little bit about what to get:
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2607079&highlight=stenner
I just feel like a continual change keeps parameters in line and no spikes at all.
Lets let some other people chime in here as well.
Here is a thread talks a little bit about what to get:
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2607079&highlight=stenner
I just feel like a continual change keeps parameters in line and no spikes at all.
Lets let some other people chime in here as well.
Doesn't get much attention on here but have you looked at a denitrifying reactor. No water changes needed. People have had very good success with it, there is a DIY thread as well. I set one up and do very minimal water changes on my 120 gal. (Approximately 170 total volume) just to get trace elements back in and old habits die hard.
1500 gal tanks--water changes?
1500 gal tanks--water changes?
Thanks for all the input. Bioload is modest--35 fish in each tank, mostly med to large, a few smaller anthias, a couple xlarge sailfin tangs. Again, no corals! FWLR ONLY. Two tanks, each feeding into a single very large sump. My phosphate readings have been very high (8-10 on hi-read meter)--have tried many additives, mostly from Brightwell, to no avail. I'm shrugging this off, since fish have been healthy, eating well for over a year now. BUT...
still trying to get a handle on 1. How often do you recommend a water change, and 2.is a 20% water change sufficient? I currently do this every 4 weeks.
1500 gal tanks--water changes?
Thanks for all the input. Bioload is modest--35 fish in each tank, mostly med to large, a few smaller anthias, a couple xlarge sailfin tangs. Again, no corals! FWLR ONLY. Two tanks, each feeding into a single very large sump. My phosphate readings have been very high (8-10 on hi-read meter)--have tried many additives, mostly from Brightwell, to no avail. I'm shrugging this off, since fish have been healthy, eating well for over a year now. BUT...
still trying to get a handle on 1. How often do you recommend a water change, and 2.is a 20% water change sufficient? I currently do this every 4 weeks.
m0nkie
Well-known member
What is the goal for increasing WC?
for FOWLR, I don't think WC is that important. Fish can live with some nitrate and phosphate.
cheapest way to reduce nitrate IMO is ceramic rocks. Marine Pure blocks work well. Siporax works well. I have used both in my tanks. All my tanks, I have trouble detecting nitrate. and I feed frozen food like crazy..
another route is to build an algae scrubber. a little more expensive.
for Phosphate, some high quality GFO from BRS works well. use x2 the recommended dosage and change them out every week. I do this until phosphate is within range, then reduce dosage.
To answer your question. I personality think 10%-20% a month is more than enough for FOWLR. I have been lazy and skipped doing WC for 6-7 months.. it's expensive to do WC in large tanks. I think you should first address why you want to increase WC.
for FOWLR, I don't think WC is that important. Fish can live with some nitrate and phosphate.
cheapest way to reduce nitrate IMO is ceramic rocks. Marine Pure blocks work well. Siporax works well. I have used both in my tanks. All my tanks, I have trouble detecting nitrate. and I feed frozen food like crazy..
another route is to build an algae scrubber. a little more expensive.
for Phosphate, some high quality GFO from BRS works well. use x2 the recommended dosage and change them out every week. I do this until phosphate is within range, then reduce dosage.
To answer your question. I personality think 10%-20% a month is more than enough for FOWLR. I have been lazy and skipped doing WC for 6-7 months.. it's expensive to do WC in large tanks. I think you should first address why you want to increase WC.
1500 g water changes
1500 g water changes
Good feedback: Thanks...but I'm not looking to increase water changes. I'd like to lessen the frequency, that's why I'm trolling for feedback from you out there as to your water change cycles on very large tanks. I'm thinking that if I reduced from every 4 weeks (@20%) to every 6 weeks with the modest bioload I have, that would work without any negative effects of livestock. Time and expenses would also lessen.
1500 g water changes
Good feedback: Thanks...but I'm not looking to increase water changes. I'd like to lessen the frequency, that's why I'm trolling for feedback from you out there as to your water change cycles on very large tanks. I'm thinking that if I reduced from every 4 weeks (@20%) to every 6 weeks with the modest bioload I have, that would work without any negative effects of livestock. Time and expenses would also lessen.
dave.m
Active member
One of the wiser things that Reef Central ever did was to take on the hosting of Reefkeeping Magazine articles. They are a treasure trove of information.
You can use Google to search for topics of interest.
Here is a good one in that it helps you get a handle on the concepts of partial water changes and how they affect your various key parameters.
Dave.M
You can use Google to search for topics of interest.
Here is a good one in that it helps you get a handle on the concepts of partial water changes and how they affect your various key parameters.
Dave.M
Well instead of playing catchup every 4 weeks, a continual change could be set to extend the frequency to a longer time frame.
Hold your breath for a minute. vs Take half breath every 45 seconds vs take quarter breath ......
The longer the water is in the tank the quicker it becomes soiled and nutrients build up. A water change of 20% every 4 weeks is really catchup always staying ahead of the curve. Thus time and expenses would also lessen.
I am going to have a 200g ASW water storage container full, along with a 200g rodi/topoff. I am going to set it up so that I do a 66g weekly water change across 665 gallons of DT/Sump/Fuge. That will last me three weeks before I have to mix up more.
While your volume is much higher a change in the frequency should adjust your percentage needed doing.
Hold your breath for a minute. vs Take half breath every 45 seconds vs take quarter breath ......
The longer the water is in the tank the quicker it becomes soiled and nutrients build up. A water change of 20% every 4 weeks is really catchup always staying ahead of the curve. Thus time and expenses would also lessen.
I am going to have a 200g ASW water storage container full, along with a 200g rodi/topoff. I am going to set it up so that I do a 66g weekly water change across 665 gallons of DT/Sump/Fuge. That will last me three weeks before I have to mix up more.
While your volume is much higher a change in the frequency should adjust your percentage needed doing.
anthonys51
New member
just to chime in here, i was wondering the same thing too. if your goal is simple keep nutrients in line and you have other means of doing that is every 6 months ok to replenish trace elements if you use a calcium reactor. i have about 600 plus gallons and i set up an old 57 tank with about 9 inches sand and put macro algae and mangroves in it. i was hoping that would be enough to keep nutrients down plus a Refugium in my sump.
dave.m
Active member
No. Nutrient use depends entirely on the specific type, number and size of the inhabitants in your system and how they use those nutrients. You should never think you can stop testing water parameters weekly (at least) or just plug in any arbitrary quantity of nutrients for resupply on a set schedule. Nature doesn't work that way. Sorry, but if that is too much trouble for you I think you may be in the wrong hobby.anthonys51 said:
Dave.M
I haven't kept a large FOWLR in many years, but when I did I never found large water changes necessary. Kept them lit on the low side, so pest algae wasn't really a problem. What problem are you trying to address with such large water change? Also you're doing more WC on the FOWLR than the reef? Seems counterintuitive to me.
I'm approaching 600 system gallons as well, and my every other week 40 gallon water change begins to seem somewhat paltry. No data to support my opinion, but I do think the use of a calcium reactor is an elegant way to replenish elements in about the same ratios that they are being taken up by growing corals. Part of what has driven my total volume up is the addition of a large refugium (a 120XH) so I'm hopeful for greater stability overall.
anthonys51
New member
your a little rude dave
too much trouble, i wouldnt have bought 4 tanks totally over 600 gallons if i was too lazy to do a water change. dont think i am worried about the trouble of a water change. since this is my first really big system over 600 gallons. i was wondering if the dsb tank 57 gallons 9 inches deep. think thats like 9 football fields of surface area plus 100 gallon just refugium would be enough. no duh it all depends on what and how much you keep. just looking for people who have big systems and how they do it.
