Water level in sump?

Bioguy7

New member
Please refer to my sump design in the picture. What should the water level be in the last chamber (outflow? What's that chamber called?)
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You can make that water level whatever you desire.

That will be where you notice evaporation and should place your ATO.

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Its the "return (pump) section"
And you don't want an under baffle like that as its going to force that section and the one before it to be the same water level..

You would be better doing a single over baffle after the skimmer and then doing an over/under right before the return section.. that will take care of the height issue plus stop chaeto (assuming fuge in center section)/bubbles,etc... in one shot..
 
Its the "return (pump) section"
And you don't want an under baffle like that as its going to force that section and the one before it to be the same water level..

You would be better doing a single over baffle after the skimmer and then doing an over/under right before the return section.. that will take care of the height issue plus stop chaeto (assuming fuge in center section)/bubbles,etc... in one shot..
Unfortunately, that sump is already done. The LFS custom-made that for me. It was their design, no input from me ha ha. So what problems should I look out for in future (apart from what you've mentioned)?

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Sump water levels are entirely dependent on the skimmers operating water height. Either the sump is at that level (whatever the manufacturer suggests) or you build a stand for your skimmer to sit on. The last baffle in the sump needs to go all the way to the bottom
 
Unfortunately, that sump is already done. The LFS custom-made that for me. It was their design, no input from me ha ha. So what problems should I look out for in future (apart from what you've mentioned)?

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None really, this is how mine is too, I actually prefer an under so return never goes dry and I'd rather have that last as under since any residual micro bubbles should float up and not go under.

Mine is basically same as yours, the first over determines water level, and I made mine just a little over 3/4 height to handle back siphon, my locklines are up high for an early siphon break so I don't need that much room for what flows to sump.
 
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Unfortunately, that sump is already done. The LFS custom-made that for me. It was their design, no input from me ha ha. So what problems should I look out for in future (apart from what you've mentioned)?

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Then either you misunderstood which side is which (skimmer side in your drawing should be return section and visa versa) or they don't know how to make a proper sump ;)
It is entirely usable though.. Just not done as it should be and if you flip it then its a "better" setup..
Really minor issues though but not optimal..
 
Then either you misunderstood which side is which (skimmer side in your drawing should be return section and visa versa) or they don't know how to make a proper sump ;)
It is entirely usable though.. Just not done as it should be and if you flip it then its a "better" setup..
Really minor issues though but not optimal..
Ha ha. It is possible the LFS person is not so knowledgeable. Because he came to my house and set it up that way. But I do remember seeing this design elsewhere too. So as you said it will still be functional.

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With the sump how it is then the hole sump other then the skimmer section will be the same water level & the baffle before the return pump isn’t going to do much except keep large things from getting to the return pump.

I would keep it about 1/2” lower then the skimmer section if possible. It will ultimately be determined by how much drain down u get from the tank when the return pump gets turned off. To be safe I would start with only run about 6” of water in the sump when u turn the system on for the first time & once it stabilizes turn the return pump off to see how much water drains to the sump. That will tell u how much water u can add to the sump. If it’s possible I would run the sump about 1/2” lower then the skimmer section
 
I'm not sure what would make it more optimal, I know people do vary on their preference but many do an under, I know mine works perfectly fine this way.

The only thing I add to mine is eggcrate strip at that last baffle to keep chaeto from going under.
 
I would do a 180 with the sump as well unless you will be using an ATO. Without, you will have problems keeping water in the middle section deep enough to serve any real purpose.
 
This is how mine is, same design just turned around, my drain's on right.
I'm not using an ATO at this time but I plan to add one at some point.

 
The few issues with the way its currently setup (and how davocean has his) is
#1-Both the middle and return sections height will vary with evaporation..
That requires far more water to evaporate before a float switch for an ATO will trigger thus salinity levels will change more..
#2-In the event that your overflow drains clog or have reduced flow both the middle and the return pump section water "may" be sufficient to cause the display tank to overflow onto the floor vs a smaller amount of water potential before the return pump runs dry..
#3-Greater chance of macro algae making its way to the return pump to either clog it or allow it into the display tank and start growing there.. (not really a problem with chaeto but if you have caulerpa,etc.. it certainly can be a PITA)
#4-Probably a few more reasons but 1-3 is enough IMO that I'd want to swap it around..
 
Well I know on mine it's balanced out to where it will not overflow,(A redundant drain should make this a non issue) I'd never use caulerpa for it's potential to become invasive, and no chaeto is not an issue, especially as I have it screened off.

I don't think evap or salinity varies much at all on mine, but I am pretty good at keeping it topped off.

I understand everyone will have their own preferences, I'm not knocking either, just works for me this way and feel no need to change mine for any reason, it's been over 2 years running so far this way.
 
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