water testing
- Thread starter jlfnjlf
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Pico1
New member
I think what people find acceptable is based on their personal system. I only test for nitrate and Alk now that my tank has matured. Since I have SPS I feel that I need to keep nitrates less than 5 to keep them healthy and vibrant, my nitrates are 0 (optimal level) with a salifert test. I aim for 8-11 Alk. Salifert test as well. In my past experence, a reef you can keep most everything ok with a nitrate level of 15 or less.
I keep a log of test results: it's invaluable in spotting trends...like, the alk has been falling a tick a day for several days---it will continue to do that, and if I don't take measures in a certain time it will go too low.
I use Salifert: I like real numbers not "acceptable." I'll be the judge of that...
I test: salinity [refractometer] at the water change---10% a week, ph [if other readings are off], temperature [daily: 2 thermometers]; and regularly: alkalinity and calcium---particularly calcium, since I buffer my topoff, and that's usually taken care of. I watch the frogspawn for a good alkalinity indicator. If it's puffed, it's happy, and the alk is pretty good...you learn certain bellwether corals for certain kinds of problems, and a glance at your tank can put you wise to certain situations that make a test a Good Thing.
Anytime you're in trouble or suspect you are, or just have a question about your chemistry, just whip out the test kits and include the parameters in the question, and it saves bundles of time---it also often gets a better answer.
I run: 1.025 salinity, 80 temp, 8.3 ph, 400 cal, 8.3 alk, 1200 mg, and beyond that I don't test unless I suspect a problem. I supplement the equivalent of 2 tsp a day Kent DKH Superbuffer and 3 heaping a day of Kent Turbo Calcium, because I've got a 4-5 inch clam and a lot of hungry frags.
I use Salifert: I like real numbers not "acceptable." I'll be the judge of that...
I test: salinity [refractometer] at the water change---10% a week, ph [if other readings are off], temperature [daily: 2 thermometers]; and regularly: alkalinity and calcium---particularly calcium, since I buffer my topoff, and that's usually taken care of. I watch the frogspawn for a good alkalinity indicator. If it's puffed, it's happy, and the alk is pretty good...you learn certain bellwether corals for certain kinds of problems, and a glance at your tank can put you wise to certain situations that make a test a Good Thing.
Anytime you're in trouble or suspect you are, or just have a question about your chemistry, just whip out the test kits and include the parameters in the question, and it saves bundles of time---it also often gets a better answer.
I run: 1.025 salinity, 80 temp, 8.3 ph, 400 cal, 8.3 alk, 1200 mg, and beyond that I don't test unless I suspect a problem. I supplement the equivalent of 2 tsp a day Kent DKH Superbuffer and 3 heaping a day of Kent Turbo Calcium, because I've got a 4-5 inch clam and a lot of hungry frags.
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Premium Member
As you become more familliar with you tank, you will see the health in it in water clarity and health of the inhabitants. Soon you will know what telltale signs represent each problem and you will "test" only a few things with regularity. I personaly find the Salifert tests the most user friendly, readable, and have a higher degree of resolution if you are careful when mixing and such. Currently I test Alk daily and Ca weekly. I should test for nitrates more often but try to counteract them from the beginning with water changes and feeding every other day sparingly. Phosphates inhibit coral growth and promote algae and is another test that should be done often.
Since you are still getting you feet wet, I would suggest testing everything weekly until your tank has stabilized and you can "read" it better without. By doing so you will be able to correlate between how it looks and the test readings to develop and eye. In addition using the tests will ensure accuracy when it is needed the most, when you don't know what is going on.
It takes me less than two minutes to run an alk titration and am comfident in every test result. Within 6 mos, depending on your stock, you will probably only test the few above with some regularity.
Ranges? Look on the Chemistry forum and start reading ALL of the articles I believe they are very important to understanding what is going on in your system....be prepared there are alot. Included there is a chart with all of the aceptable ranges of everything you would ever want to know. I personally pick a number within these ranges and try to hold it as close as I can.....there is a bid difference in coral health between 11dkh and 7dkh when refering to Alk. esp. if it constantly roaming willy nilly between those numbers all of the time.
Lot of questions, lots of answers....hope it helps......
Since you are still getting you feet wet, I would suggest testing everything weekly until your tank has stabilized and you can "read" it better without. By doing so you will be able to correlate between how it looks and the test readings to develop and eye. In addition using the tests will ensure accuracy when it is needed the most, when you don't know what is going on.
It takes me less than two minutes to run an alk titration and am comfident in every test result. Within 6 mos, depending on your stock, you will probably only test the few above with some regularity.
Ranges? Look on the Chemistry forum and start reading ALL of the articles I believe they are very important to understanding what is going on in your system....be prepared there are alot. Included there is a chart with all of the aceptable ranges of everything you would ever want to know. I personally pick a number within these ranges and try to hold it as close as I can.....there is a bid difference in coral health between 11dkh and 7dkh when refering to Alk. esp. if it constantly roaming willy nilly between those numbers all of the time.
Lot of questions, lots of answers....hope it helps......
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